Update on the DS3218 Pro Servo, sadly, it’s not good enough for competition racing. Lacks fidelity and quick direction changes needed. It’s much better than old DS3218 but it’s no match for a fast coreless servo. It’s coming out. Update video soon.
FYI, gravity is one of the most useful tools in your toolbox. I usually flip the chassis over and screw upwards into the chassis so that the screw and loctite stay on the driver when first threading in. Also, when you go to clean up the ESC solder posts, not a bad idea to heat them up upside down so that the solder flows downward back onto your iron rather make an even bigger mess on the ESC posts. Anyway, have fun!
I cannot thank you enough for making the six videos for building TLR 22 5.0 DC Elite kit, well done and thank you. I am getting ready to start my very first build of of this kit, as well as any other kit. You have provided me needed information and added confidence for not screwing-up my upcoming build. I will let you know how things progress, starting build this Friday. You are credit to the RC hobby and an ambassador for beginners such as myself.
Tried it last night, and it was worst part of the build. Has to come out. Great for crawling/bashing, not PRO enough for racing. Too slow to change direction.
Hey there, not sure if others have mentioned this yet but if your magnetic drivers are not working you can slide a strong magnet over them to sort of “recharge” the tip again
The carbon tray is there so you can easily remove your electronics for cleaning without having to retape every time you clean the car, so do not stick your esc on top of those mounting screws. That servo will do just fine, I have several of them ( also the 25kg version ) in my cars and they are holding up for over a year now without any issue. The only differance I notice compared to my Savox servo's is that they have a slightly less smooth travel but other than that they are great.
I raced it last night. Servo seems fine on paper but in practice it caused me trouble. It is the cause of the interference as it’s too tall, and it’s to slow to change direction. Not coreless I suppose. Lacks any fine control, it’s smooth and fast and strong but not good enough to compete with IMO. It’s coming out.
Nice video, I enjoy these even though I've already built a 5.0! The stock plastic servo horn is actually pretty tough. I use it in my 22 5.0 SR, even though I have an aluminum TLR one. Never needed the aluminum one. I would highly recommend using loctite on the mounting screws for the servo. The problem with those servos is that they are some of the tallest in the market, and don't fit properly in certain vehicles, it's a little too forward in this case. Your horizontal draglink is probably sitting a little diagonal east-west rather than straight because of the tall servo. This is not ideal since it will add mechanical expo to the steering. FYI, the purpose of the carbon ESC tray is so that if you remove your motor, you can also remove the electronics tray so it's not dangling from the ESC while you're fiddling with the transmission. But it's certainly optional.
@@netcruzer yeah, it's stupid, honestly most manuals are about 50/50 on whether they indicate properly to loctite, my Schumacher is more like 90/10 and you basically should loctite everything! Good luck with the buggy, hope to see it in action in one of your race videos!
Don't float a servo on a aluminum chassis. Shim mount to make flush or almost flush would proably fix your clearence! Love your channel! Hope it runs well for you!
There is no height adjust. You can only shim it forward. I need to go backwards and down which is not supported. A small filing down is all it needs. I asked 22empire and it seems most in my situation just start filing parts down for clearance. I will if I must.
@@netcruzer , I'll rewatch. Figured you could put something between servo and mount...... Guessing screws won't line up with ears?🤔 Raced a lot of LOSI and tamiya on road, associated off road in the 90's! If i went back to offroad that's the car i would have! Have fun with it! Still have my kyosho optima from 87'! First real r/c car!😀
The tools supposedly magnetic.. If you have a magnetic tray or some powerful magnets sit your tools in that and some reason as i have found they become magnetized.. Another way if you dont have the tray you could get some cheap rare strong earth magnets and tape them or glue (hot glue maybe) 2 little round disc ones to each of the drivers.. should then magnetize the drivers..
I am using a savöx servo and i have the same Problem with the Mount of the servohorn and the movement Area underneath the top ....it kinda suck that ure not able to get in there
🌕🌎🐸 that servo install is a bitch, I figured it out after a while, but when I went to upgrade the servo I was forced to remove front end about 10 screws and dremel out cavity and slightly brisk the sides. Thumbs down on that area. All it needs is to have the wishbone easy to remove.
I didn't use any shims. Moving it forward with shims looks like it would hit more. IMO the arm needs to move back 1mm, but I have no adjustment for that.
