Omg. I've just met my Male counterpart.....wow I just did the almost exact thing to my toilet yesterday, then i see this video. Amazing to meet another perfectionist , thanks for this video! I love your artwork. . Sculpture is beautiful.
That was the best video on toilet flange repair, I've seen yet! You have that uncanny natural ability of making sarcastic criticisms towards an industry, very humorous and entertaining to watch, at the same time making your point. If this was Hollywood, you would be the James Woods of toilet repairs...lol
After watching your video from 2 years ago, I had to go back and watch the original. Love the humor! I think it is a good idea to seal around the flange so that you know when the seal isn't working.
Regarding the wax rings with plastic funnel flanges: Apparently a lot of people are installing them UPSIDE DOWN! The plastic funnel flange goes DOWN inside the standpipe, NOT UP into the toilet itself! The flange directs the flow of water DOWN (and more importantly) INSIDE the standpipe, not out into or onto your subfloor or floor.
Absolutely true!! The wax is the seal for liquids AND gas. The plastic piece is a FUNNEL and must be pointed down into the standpipe. It shows pointing UP on the box as most folks install it to the bottom of the toilet which is usually upside down at that point. I install the wax funnel to the floor flange with the plastic inserted into the pipe. THEN place the toilet over the wax ring and secure it with the bolts.
Marty, my life has been full of people like you, a lot of mile, one way in no way out, all over the world, and I still here, walk,n and talk, so hats off to guys like you.......................BB
Thank you. You are just the right amount of appropiately grumpy and hilarious. About to set a toilet by myself and the straw trick will probably cut down on my swearing.
You are the most miserable man in all of home repair videos and I can't get enough of it!! I'm willing to donate my full head of hair to you if you do another video!
A fun video. I had a few observations: 1) Liked the straw idea. Next time make the straws different lengths that way you can engage one straw at a time as you drop the toilet down onto the flange. It is hard to see both straws at the same time while trying to look around the bowl. 2) Two wax rings is a bad idea. Next time get a toilet flange spacer kit and raise the top surface of the toilet flange to 1/4"-3/8" above the surrounding floor surface. There are lots of videos on how to install toilet spacers on RU-vid. Wax is too weak to reliably hold back the water when it gets too thick. 3) Wax rings are approximately 1" thick. Ideally they compress down to approximately 3/8"-1/2" thick during installation. If your toilet flange is only 1/8" out of level there is plenty of wax to accommodate that variance in flange height across the sealing surface.
R J Serra- You are correct about being difficult to be able to see both toilet hold down bolts when lowering the heavy toilet down. This is the reason I never attempt set a complete toilet; my back will not handle holding up heavy toilet and wax ring is subject to damage while I am fumbling with the toilet. I have to set bowl only and then replace tank components as needed.
The toilet flange is short to prevent damage when the toilet is placed on any hard surface. You break the flange - you buy a new toilet. Thus the brilliant idea of a plastic FUNNEL mounted with the wax ring to extend the flange DOWNWARD into the sewer pipe. Also you must be sure the floor flange is mounted firmly to the subfloor. And near level side to side. The wax ring can compensate for a LOT of misalignment of the flange. Final key detail: The bottom of the toilet housing must be flush with the floor all around the outside edge. This helps the weight of the tank and bowl to stabilize the toilet. Also a bead of adhesive caulk will help keep the toilet secure. But it is the CLOSET BOLTS thru the flange AND the SCREWS holding the flange to the floor that prevent the toilet from rocking. The key is to snug the two bolts enough to hold the bowl firmly to the floor.....without cracking the porcelain!!
The DJ, I appreciate your informative comment. My tenant said that her toilet is loose. She tried to tighten one of the two screws on the bottom of the toilet and that screw came out. I was hoping to go buy a flange if that one was damaged, but according to you if the flange is broke I will have to get a new toilet. I will have my son remove the toilet and take a look. Or maybe I can get a new screw hopefully for the flange if it's damaged. Hopefully won't have to get a new toilet.
@@karenkramer3760 he isn't saying the toilet is broken, he is saying IF the toilet had a larger/longer opening like the video said, if the flange broke the toilet would break. likely the person broke the bolt going through the flange, or the flange is not secured to the floor allowing for the toilet to move back and forth
OMG!!! I was just about to remove my old toilet to install the new one when I said to myself; go memorize the flange part. Wow I salute you my friend because you did it to the perfection like a Master in this field would have done. Now I',m going to look at your other videos and I hope you have one on installing all the pieces of the water tank, I hope I hope you do. YOU ARE WORTH MY TIME! Thank you for your time..
I swear I said those exact words to a friend today when I mentioned my frustrations with plumbing parts both old (galvanized) and new (the new plastic stuff) and of course the bloody wax ring. There should me no reason all of this stuff is still so primitive. Looks like I have some things to patent. Thanks for your video.
I had a further observation while re-watching your video. It appeared that when you installed the reinforced was ring on the toilet the first time that you did not remove the thin plastic covering on the wax prior to installation. In order or the WAX to seal to the flange it has to contact both the toilet and the toilet flange. So you need to remove the thin plastic 1/2 doughnut shaped covering that the wax seal is in when it comes out of the box. That thin plastic 1/2 doughnut shaped cover is just to protect the wax during shipment from the factory to the end user. And of course, as was mentioned by other viewers, you need to install the wax seal with the horn facing down into the waste pipe. I have been using this style of wax ring for 40 years and they work very well. They are much better then just the plain wax ring that we had to work with back in the 1960's.
I would have taken out that flange reset a new one with the bottom of the flange being the same elevation as to finish tile, I would have filled in that Gap with hydraulic cement to keep it sturdy when you reset the new one . After 28 years of being a plumber most of the time commodes leak because flanges are not set the proper elevation therefore your wax ring does not smash all the way as recommended . I use plaster of Paris to seal around the base of the commode so that it will fill the gaps due to finish floor not level, I've done this many many times for apartment complex clinics hospitals and so on . I was taught by an old plumber and if I had to walk to the truck 20 times to get it right he would make me do that . The chances of my commode leaking after I was done we're very slim because I knew that that flange was set property . Never used two wax rings because it will smash inward and cause you problems later . I'm too old now and too tired to do things twice . Best of luck
Thanks for the tips. Cutting out that cast iron pipe to set a new one is beyond my skill set. I'think I'm going to pop off the toilet and take a look at it now that a couple of years have passed. My leak detector (the tunnel in the grout) has not shown any leaks, but I've gotten several comments on here telling me I did things wrong. I didn't invent most of this stuff, I just took advice from plumbers.
@@MartyPollio I would be uneasy using two wax rings, especially without the attached horn. You might get a lot of excess wax in the pipe when you push the toilet down to seat it.
Cheyenne - Well there's the key - "I was taught by an old plumber and if I had to walk to the truck 20 times to get it right he would make me do that." Great lessons. I'm not a plumber myself, but my grandfather taught me how to properly prepare and solder copper pipes when I was 10 years old. I haven't done thousands, but probably a few hundred and NEVER had a leak. It's good to see that there is still talent around!
Great video. A good M-Hack tip is using straws on the toilet bolts as guides for positioning the bowel. Another good tip is using DAP Quick-Seal (around the base of the bowel) to prevent subtle toilet movement. - - - Un-level floors cause un-level toilet bowels. Maybe you can use a level, and a slow-setting floor tile mortar to build a level base upon which to set the bowel; but that's a big project. - - - Wax seals with the plastic horn are a problem, especially with cast iron flanges.
The seal is wax, to allow for difference in flange height to bowl (the flange being out of level, you can just stick a wax seal on and it will compensate). The neck on the bottom of the bowl isn't longer because sometimes you have to off set the flange or use an offset flange. However nice idea on the straws.
Great job Marty! Especially making sure all the bases are covered. It was educational in the way you related different plumbing forums and RU-vid videos to gain insight concerning the issues that can occur while installing a new toilet. Great delivery and final product. You kept it interesting and fun to watch. I'm somewhat of a perfectionist also, I used to write music but wanted to change things so much I had to give it a rest. Some home improvement videos would be great! You're an artist at delivering information that leaves no one bored or uninterested. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for your helpful video. Just flushed my new toilet! Your thoughtful approach gave me confidence that my installation is going to be successful. I used your leak detection channel idea. Have a beautiful day!
YES! Why is nearly everything toilet related designed so shittily? From chronically leaking flapper valves to disintegrating wax rings to pvc flanges that crack to the entire flange seal system.....it's all so terrible. Clearly the toilet itself should have a spout that goes down into the pipe instead of a separate seal that, you know, you hope holds but is obvious the source of constant replacement.
No pun intended!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 why why why 😫😫😫so true I have a 50 year old toilet that someone just sank flange bolts into the concrete without using a flange 😳 Happy Sunday, Cheers!
Your opening sounds all to familiar :-)......I found your video entertaining, educational, a little sarcastic humor along with a few hacks thrown in..wow, great job ...got a few laughs from it too..oh, and I learned a thing or 2 .. Thanks.. :-)...
I love this guy - especially the monologue at the end. Like seriously, 21st century and it's still impossible for the world to come up with a better solution than wax lol
I agree! I said the same thing when I replaced a toilet for the first time. There are definitely better ways to have a good seal. Buttttt maybe you don't want a perfect seal. What if you had a clog past the toilet in the pipe, you probably want to know about it before it causes bigger problems down stream. Not having a perfect seal would be like a mechanical fuse/warning before you get totally screwed. Just a theory not a pro...
@@paulmonk7820 sure you don't but I bet you would rather have it on some tile floor before you had it on a ceiling. That is if your toilet is upstairs as mine is.
A skeptic, a perfectionist but a doer. In the realm of DIY self certitude Marty isn't afraid to look deeper and call out the alleged experts and producers of dodgy products. Marty: the philosopher king of DIY.
You are a cool dude...love to go fishing with you...but...Everything you did and said is wrong...sorry. (master plumber here 37 yrs experience) 1. A wax ring with a funnel built-in is for non-plumbers doing what a real plumber should do. They're ok...but the problem is, sometimes the funnel doesn't fit inside the pipe and the black plastic gets crumpled and ruins the wax seal. 2. No need to fill in around the "closet ring"....waste of time and energy...unless the ring is loose and lifts up. 3. No need to put that stuff on the bottom of the bowl. 4. No need to stack wax rings any higher than an 1-1/2" above the floor. 5. If the ring seem too high, set the bowl on top of it WITHOUT any wax yet.... and see if it teeters on it....if so....you'll FOR SURE need to shim the toilet up. 6. If the ring is a little crooked...it's ok as long as it's not too high anywhere and teeters. (build up the wax a little on the low side to compensate). 7. You put the plastic "China Cap" holders (washers) on upside down on the closet bolts. Now the china caps won't snap on. 8. You didn't check to see if the toilet bowl needs to be shimmed (most important step of all). 9. When caulking around the base of the bowl, just leave out a little in the back and that will be the "leak indicator" you wanted. 10. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@mplum590 You don't need to fill in around the outside of ring. The seal is made on top of the ring with wax. Make sure the ring is fastened down pretty well and doesn't lift up. Put one or 2 wax rings down so that there is ample Squish when you set the bowl down. Using water proof shims (some plumbers use coins, I use small squares of floor tile and maybe some washers) to remove ANY wobble BEFORE you tighten the bolts down (gently)....not too tight! The bowl should feel pretty solid.
@@devilshaircut9 risky....sometimes the ring falls off just before you set the bowl down and now it's way off center....and now you just bought a ceiling repair.
I may have blocked the line with putting double stacked rings. May smash down into the drain and cause problems in future also. They have thick rings to use and never use rings with the funnels
Earlier this year, a handyman friend of mine installed my new toilet using concrete to solve my flange problem. It worked! No “rock ‘n’ roll effect”! I also had him install my “FreshSoft” brand seat mounted (not the handheld nozzle type) bidet. It works great too! I’ll be sending him a link to this video. You remind me of another friend of mine, who is a master of being negative, and hilarious at the same time. Regarding your deadpan combination negative/hilarious comedic style, you ought to get yourself a pressure canner, can it, and sell it online.
Dude I am so the same way with being meticulous and a perfectionist- it's a blessing and a curse! When I do something I do it RIGHT and it's always a time investment, moreso than another person would do. But it comes out looking and working great in most instances, so to me, even though it's often a painstaking process, it's worth it in the end. Great job.
WOW!! Where have you been all my remodeling years. Plumber installed my toilets and no sooner you sit down they wobble. So, after this video I'm redoing it myself. What we run out of corn cobs?...🤣😂🤣❤❤
"Chances are, if you've come knocking, your toilets rocking" - Well shot video and good production. Assuming you started this project because your toilet was rocking, I'm not sure you addressed the root cause. My comments may be useful for another viewer who has a toilet that is rocking. An old flattened out wax ring that is letting fumes or water out is never the cause of the rocking, it's the result of the rocking. The toilet rocks because the individual floor tiles under the toilet are not level, flat or on the same plane and/or the bottom perimeter of the toilet itself is not flat or on the same plane **. Other than buying a new toilet and hoping it is more "flat" or pulling up all the tile around the toilet and reinstalling it taking extra care to make it flat; there is a very cheap and simple fix...buy some toilet shims. The big box stores have them as does amazon. Some are made of a very hard plastic that are very difficult to cut once in place but they will never compress, others are a softer rubberized material that you can cut in place with a utility knife / razor blade (I don't know if they compress over time). If the toilet is rocking front to back, slid a shim under the toilet at the front or the back, where there is a gap between the bottom of the toilet and the floor. Then trim the shim so it's not sticking out. If the toilet is rocking side to side, then find the gap on the right side or left side and slide in a shim. The shim is not supposed to lift the toilet, just to stop it from moving down. Don't hammer the shim in or force it in. When sliding it in by hand, when you meet firm resistance your are finished, just cut off the part stick out and leave it. If you force it in, you are now starting to lift the toilet off the wax ring that has no rebound abilities and causing your problems all over again. If you don't like the look of the shim after it is trimmed off, you can run some caulking around the toilet but don't put any on the back so if a leak occurs, it has a place to exit where you can eventually see it. If you seal it up all the way around it could become a petri dish to grow all sorts of interesting things if a leak ever happens. Search RU-vid for Shimming a toilet to get a visual of the process. ** A 3rd and more rare possibility for a rocking toilet ( that would only follow someone who just removed and reinstalled the toilet or you just moved into a house or apartment) is the use of a product other than a conventional wax ring that is too thick for the job. There are plastic foam and rubber products that are made as substitutes for the messy wax ring. Some people love them, some hate them but they are more sensitive to the gap between the bottom of your toilet where the horn comes out and the top of your flange. Some flanges are above the floor, at the floor or below the floor level. The problem with this plastic/foam/rubber seal happens more frequently when the flange is above the floor level leaving too little space for the plastic/foam/rubber to compress. The toilet base does not get all the way down to the floor level and you have a rocking toilet that you need to shim or you then try to close that small gap between the toilet base and the floor by screwing down the nuts on the closet bolts on each side of the toilet resulting in a cracked toilet bowl or a broken flange. There is no torque specification for tightening these nuts that will protect you from breaking the flange or breaking the toilet. That's where the experience of a Pro or someone who has does these things multiple times has the feel to know when to stop tightening. If you do an excellent job fixing the the rocking with shims, there is no need to tighten the nuts much beyond hand tight. If you are heavy and older and have leg strength problems lowering yourself down to the seat without a final drop that also includes a slight backward motion Or when getting up you are inadvertently pushing off the toilet, putting backwards pressure on the toilet you can cause problems with the seal. I'd suggest cutting a short piece of 1 x 6 x ( the distance from the back of your toilet to the wall or trim board) and placing that board flat on the floor to stop any backward movement of the toilet. A PVC 1 x 6 plank would be the best as it is immune to moisture and water or make it out of wood but seal it with several coats of paint.
You've done a lot of strange things in this video that I hadn't seen in other toilet flange videos, but they seem like a good idea. I just had my toilet leak down into the condo below. Wish I'd thought to seal around the flange with foam to avoid that happening again. Nice idea.
At first I was like "Hmmm I guess maybe mortar and foam will be strong enough for the screws" and then LOL you never screwed the flange into the ground!
I did try using the white concrete screws (seen at 8:01) to secure it to the mortar, but I could feel it wasn't working that well. I just left the screws in there though. The foam, mortar and caulking is enough to hold everything. I also used this process on my other toilet.
Marty, just watched a bunch of videos by professional plumbers attempting to resolve this same issue, which I also have (hence my entire morning watching the stuff). I'm an electronics design engineer and usually very handy at many other things, including most plumbing projects. My conclusion after watching all of the videos so far? You are NOT a hack! But many of the "professionals" seem to be. Sloppy work and all in a big rush. I wonder if they do a better job at their own homes. I'm a bit cursed with OCD, so I would very likely do the same "overkill" things you have done here. Since I've spent an entire career designing products that are critical for function and reliability (usually running 24/7 for at least 25 years before repair), I see where you're coming from. I HATE doing plumbing work, so why wouldn't I put a little extra into the repair job while everything is apart? "I would challenge the "Pro's" repair longevity to yours here. I would bet that yours will still be working, and theirs may require extra "visits". Hats off to you! And THANKS! And BTW - great sense of humor...
Thanks for the compliment, but there have been a few plumber's comments that have led me to believe that I may have some problems under the fixture. I'm going to take it off (I'll record it and post it) and see what's been going on for the past couple of years. I always assume I'll do a better job than anyone else because most people are slobs, but maybe they're right, maybe I did make mistakes. Gonna pull it off when I can muster the energy.
@@marpo You're very welcome for the compliment. It is well deserved. Yeah, I do plumbing only when it's necessary, and I tend to stick with "Input" (hot / cold water in copper pipes) vs "Output" (bad stuff in PVC). I've seen professional plumbers do things that totally contradict each other. Scary. Will be watching for your next video(s) - any subject. I'm sure it will be well done and entertaining!
I love the straw idea. I just finished watching another utube which a longer screw was recommended and than cut. Your idea is so much easier that cutting a screw.
Marty next time get a container of plumbers putty roll it in your hand till looks like spaghetti noodle then put it around the base where toilet meets the floor. Then when you sit on it any excess will squeeze out cut it off with a razor. The let it harded your toilet will not rock anymore dont forget to level it before it hardens.
That flapper is a very soft rubber. I made the mistake of poring bleach in the tank and now my flapper must have been corroded by the bleach. Mine leaks a little every so often. It does cost some money when they leak until it's fixed right. Thanks fer sharing...
Great job going the extra mile with ideas and tips I've never seen before in other videos. I have a bad back and the putting the straws over bolts to guide the bowl down- genius idea! Are you an engineer?! I'm a computer security engineer and I have the same type of complaints about a lot of DIY. Really ...we're still doing this crap in 2023? I find most other industries seem not to like to innovate and tend to stay with the tried and true never revisiting what has always worked in the past -I mean it does work, but works poorly. Job security? They've probably never heard of Covey or Demming I suppose i.e. embracing a continuous improvement philosophy.
Great video. The Danco (prefect seal) solution, suggested by others, is what I was going to buy. Then I found the Sani-Seal (green foam ring). It costs more ($12), but seems to be the most forgiving/easiest to install, while achieving a solid water/air tight connection. If your flange is not “above” the floor, like mine is, then really consider installing a spacer (seal-rite or equivalent) to get it above the floor, to insure a more ideal/desired seal.
+Topel Family: That Sani-Seal foam ring will begin disentigrating in a short while, faster if you use bleach tablets in your toilet tank or toilet cleaners containing bleach.
I ended up trying 2 items. First i placed the wax ring. It ended turning into a wadded ball of wax and I crushed the tiny, wobbly screws. Next i used the blue platter with the screws embedded in the plastic platter. It was near perfect and easy. I had to drill holes in the concrete floor to attach the device. The holes were too big but acceptable. The device couldn't move forward or backwards so it didn't matter that it could be lifted up. I put a plain wax ring on the flang and placed the ble disk on top. Then I mashed down the wax with the disk using my foot. No leaks. I did pay someone $45 to lift the toilet and place it on the screws.😁😊🤔🙄
Sounds like you won't have a problem anymore ...although it doesn't sound so great the the disk will move at all (even it it's up and down). Just make sure you don't completely seal the bottom so you can see if it leaks.
Liked the video. Over the top but covers all problems. You also have a depressed Larry David presentation that fits fixing toilets! No need to "Curb Your Enthusiasm" with this job...
I remembered your video where you showed using straws on the bolts. The Danco Perfect Seal came with 3" long bolts (same as straw technique) , so it left them in full length and carefully cut them off after toilet was set.
Kohler makes a shitter that this guy would love. There is a separate tube that gets bolted to the toilet flange first, before the toilet even goes on. Then once you bolt the tube to the flange, (using a wax ring) you install the toilet. This gives the installer perfect vision of the seal of the wax ring. It’s an expensive shitter tho. I think that’s why you don’t see more of them in homes. They are over a grand. I’ve installed two of these so far.
Dude the howto was great but your ideas expressed.....are super. Great channel man i too think like you when im turning wrenches or doing projects round the house.
Holy shit!! I'm pretty sure that just based on this one video that I have found my absolute favorite youtube channel. Ever. Please please do a home improvement series! And don't wear shoes or boots for any of the projects.. just like this one...(just my take on it..)! This is awesome
Marty- you have a lot of great ideas. Smart guy! I have a particle board subflooring (ughh) with the new veneer hardwood glued to it!!! (double ughh). I chiseled out rotten hardwood earlier this year and cut/ put 'almost' a perfect match back in, then replaced wax ring/ toilet. Guess what- 8 months later... i noticed rotten / dark hardwood (veneer- who does this?!) on the backside. Pulled the toilet again, got a rubber seal, and then noticed the front of the flange is rotten- pulled a screw straight up with my hand- particle board!!!! anyway, the flange now isn't secure in the front- so the toilet rocks. I have to pull it all back out and think i'll get into the crawl space and see if i can nail wood right under where that front screw should be- to have something to hold the flange down. Wish me good luck...
Marty Pollio Glad you asked!! I couldn’t get under because Hvac in the way so..... I did what I could. I broke off paint sticks and hid them under the 4 corners of the toilet for stability since the right side of flange is a bit rotten. No issues since. It’s sturdy if not exactly a total fix. No one knows but me
You earned a subscriber with this vid ✌🏿 that whole situation was similar to what I've been going through with these apartments I do work on . None of the floors are level and the flanges are all screwed up . It's been big gaps around all the flanges I worked on smh and the floors are weak , I have to go over somebody's crappy work all the time . I like how you filled the gaps that was slick 💪🏿 mostly everything with repairs is common sense if your really into it 💯
Glad it helped. My drain pipes were unsupported and there was nothing below them other than the downstairs neighbor's drywall ceiling. If you use the expanding foam (like I did) be careful not to put too much. It's best to spray some into the lower part and wait for it to dry and expand before you spray more. You would have to clean the spray nozzle after the first spray so it doesn't get clogged. Of course, you could always just use non-expanding foam.
