Make sure to shut off the main water supply before doing this repair. Do it yourself replacement of a faulty shut off valve to a toilet. Valve is connected to a 1/2" copper supply line.
Mentioning the need to shut off the main water switch is SUPER important! I watched this video a couple of times and was really surprised it did not talk about this! What a mess a first time repair person would have if this was not done!
It is written in the “description” of this video. I agree that mentioning it during the video would be have important. Many people don’t read the video descriptions.
I have an old house and cannot afford a plumber, heard it isn't that hard to fix a toilet, thanks for the detailed video! Doing this specific repair today. It would be helpful for folks who don't know- to go under the house and shut off the water before starting. For us beginners out there!
Not sure if I mentioned this in the video, but thanks for pointing it out. I'll put a cautionary note in the video description. A lot of times I just assume it would be obvious that someone would know to shut off the water before doing a repair like this, so thanks for the reminder.
Very clear and concise. I was able to use the old compression nut and sleeve so repair was a breeze. It's nice to now have a valve that completely shuts off the water.
Very good demonstration. Only thing I might add for anyone who is not familiar with the details such as turning the main water supply off may need to be told this. Most plumbers have experienced floods and would know this is an important step but someone who is a first time DIY plumber may need to be shown. Thank you for your video.
iScraper1, after 9+ years your posting continues to assist us DIYers! Most helpful, specifically for me, showing the removal of the packing valve to easily access the stuck fast valve itself. Frustration overcome, job completed! Thanks so much!! Best!
Great video and explanation. I like the fact that you did not rush through the video but calmly explained each step and why you were doing it, excellent.
Great tip on the compression sleeve puller. Other videos say to cut the pipe but that may leave you with issues down the road if you have to the repair again and don’t have enough pipe left.
Great video ! ! ! Easy to understand and you're well spoken. I have to do this little trick tomorrow because my shut off valve decided to start speaming water at the wall. Thanks for the information.
Thank you for your video; I had a leaking Toilet fill valve assembly and had to replace; the big problem was trying to get the bottom tightening knob off the Supply line that was a rigid steel pipe with an attatched washer flange on top. I had no idea ho to take a 3/8 compression nut assembly apart at the base of the supply line which I had to take off to get the old tightening knob off and put the new one on since the old tightening know was cracked. YOUR VIDEO HELP WAS JUST AWESOME. This was my first big plumbing job ever (well big for me at least), The compression valve came off just like your video. I was sure it was going to be frozen shut as the pipe is 20 years old, but no, it came off just like butter. I would never have had the confidence to do this job with out your video instructions. All is now back together and not leaking, so far. Knock on wood. Thank you. Rebecca &:)
Thanks...just wanted to say the it went fine and was real easy to do. I even used the old compression nut and it works like a charm...no leaks. I also insalled a new line from the shut off valve to the toilet. Thanks again for the video, it helped.
Thank you so much for this video. My mom's toilet was leaking in a few places in the back and I had to replace the hose connecting to the wall but wasn't too sure if I was going to do something wrong. This video really helped give me some assurance that I was doing everything right haha. Thanks again for making this video!
Hey man thanks a lot for the video this was a really good walk through and the camera angle was perfect. My pipe was soldered on and I had enough excess to cut the old valve off. I had to use a bit of tephlon tape but it worked great.
Thanks for the video. I sort of knew how to do it (I've had to do so much plumbing in my house lately) but I wanted to be 100% sure. You explained everything simply and in a helpful manner!
wow - thanks for the quick reply! i tried pb blaster with no luck - what ended up doing it was i just turned the whole pipe out of the wall, bench vised it and hit it with the blow torch. i find that fire is usually a pretty good solution to most of life's problems ;-p thanks for your help!
I wonder if the pipe your referring to is galvanized. A lot of older homes were plumbed with galvanized pipe. Normally you don't get a lot of rust with copper pipe. You might want to try WD 40 a few times on the threads, then if there is room place a pipe wrench behind the valve to hold the supply pipe. Then try to carefully thread the old valve off. Careful, you don't want to break the supply pipe.
Nice summary, Kerry. I've never seen that compression sleeve removal tool -- pretty handy. Presumably it's not possible to just replace the bushings inside the valve.
Thanks Nancy. It is frustrating to shut off a supply valve to do a repair and not have it work. I've had better luck with the 1/4 turn valves rather than the twist close type. They're a little more money (a couple dollars per valve) but well worth it.
This was exactly what I needed to see to continue on a project of mine to replace an old toilet. I don't have, and would rather not have to buy, the T puller tool, so I'm hoping the old compression ring and nut will still work with the new shutoff valve and tubing. Thanks for posting.
You should always replace the compression ring, they are only meant to be used once. The née valve comes with a new feral ring for a reason. I did what you did and it leaked into my basement right onto my pool table
Hi, I would like to replace my old shut off valve, but my valve seems to be in one piece and not have a 5/8 compression nut at the bottom, how do I go about taking off my valve?
Thanks for the video. Just tackled the shut off replacement as well as adding a bidet. FYI all, I replaced the shut, the plumber who put it in 15 years ago made the pipe too short. So I couldn’t put the trim ring on (I’ll add one that opens)and after 10 minutes, a small leak formed on the bottom of the shut off. I tightened it, still no good. I took it apart and put some pipe dope on the top of the ferrel. So far so good.
Nice job, Thx for the tip about the T-puller, not sure how much they are but may be worth having one in my tool box. I will be doing this project today.
to loosen 5/8" compression nut, turn clockwise and to tighten it turn counter-clockwise. you show counter-clockwise to tighten it but you said turn clockwise. surprised no one else commented on this
The compression sleeve puller is handy. I got it after another supply valve failed and I couldn't get the sleeve off without damaging it. I checked with my plumbing supplier today and he said they don't make a repair kit for these supply valves. Probably because the valves are so cheap in cost. They do make a small inline 3/8" compression valve that could be placed after the 5/8" compression valve in the supply tube to the toilet, but that valve costs as much as the 5/8" compression valve.
@@Iscaper thanks. We were so close but our cheap seller for this manufacturered home chinced us on pvc pipe, the nut is basically at floor level and pulling up pulls other pvc pipes. But we've known they totally screwed us and messed up our plumbing since thr vent pipe from that bathroom is bent, didn't use the right pipe, etc. We still have half a mind to pay someone to redo everything right... Anyway, Your video was great though, I appreciate it a lot. Thank you
Since you didn't replace to shutoff valve with 1/4 turn valve, I have to say you could have done this by just replacing OEM parts stem, BrassCraft BCSR01 at home depot for 3 bucks each. I replace 21 of this kind of valve 21 of them by just replacing the stem, no mess, cheap which will last about 17 years, the time when I notice 3/21 of them won't fully shutoff. All of them shows gasket deterioration/deform/broken/cut/brittle, time to replace all.
Hey great video well explained and step by step instructions. But in my case I turned the water supply valve off and the main supply off.but still water is still coming through the valve. What am I missing?
excellent video, im doin this right now. where did you get that tool? the home depot one i bought has prongs that pop off every time i twist with a lot of pressure. Im just going to use old copper ring, but i would like that tool for future. please let us know the brand. thanks
I bought mine at a local plumbing supply, but here is a link for one that is similar on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-03943-Compression-Fittings/dp/B000L89AZC/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y
Be prepared to wait quite awile for the water to drain out of the line before you can replace that valve! There may be alot of line betw the toilet and the shut-off valve and the toilet valve is often right at ground floor level.
Our shutoff valve does not have a compression nut under the valve. It is just stuck on the pipe somehow. Any ideas on how to remove the valve? Turning it with the wrench is not moving the valve at all, its really stuck on there.
i have an older house (at least by american standards) and i think that my supply valve just connects by way of a female port directly to a threaded copper pipe. i can't quite tell because it's so rusted over. i am worried about damaging the pipe if i just turn it and i cant get a good grip on the copper sticking out of the wall. any ideas?
Well, I ordered that sleeve puller from Amazon. I'm getting quite a collection of plumber tools. Already have a puller for replacing kitchen faucet cartridge. 🙄
Total thumbs up 👍🏻 I tried replacing this last night looks just like your valve. I tighten it kinda hard and still get a very tiny tiny leak. I used teflon tape too. Any idea what it could be? Should I tighten more? Or use for teflon tape? By the way I am using the old nut. (Didn't replace the ring neither, I am assuming the old ring is in the nut)
This type of valve uses compression fittings so you shouldn't need teflon tape. The compression ring usually stays on the pipe when you remove the old valve. I would check the copper pipe and old compression ring for flaws.
I hope you respond to my question. You video was helpful especially when it was hard to unscrew the old valve body off. Only problem I have is that the compression ring is unmovable and I cannot remove the nut and the ring. I have blue plastic like pipes with a copper insert at the mouth of the tube. How do I get the compression ring and nut off so I don't have to keep the old one?
@@Iscaper I ended up paying for a plumber. He didn't want to use one as he was concerned about screwing up the plastic pipe. He just put the new valve on with the old nut and compression ring with plenty of plumbers goo...
Kimberly Smoak Yes if you have a copper supply pipe. They also make an angle valve for this if it would work better in your application than the straight valve.
Awesome video if you want to make it easier you can use the same bolt on the copper pipe because those rarely are bad its the actual shut off that bad. Be done in less than 5 min
You could buy an identical new valve, remove the screw in the center of the knob, remove the knob and install on old valve. Hopefully the valve stem in the old valve isn't damaged.
I really like this video. Instructions are very clear. The problem with my leaking shut off valve is that it's not set up like this one......I wish it was. The connection is straight but the valve assembly has a long bottom piece that fits onto the copper pipe. I can't seem to find a RU-vid video that shows how to replace the sort of assembly I have. I fiddled with it and now instead of a moderate leak, I have a big leak. :( Time to call the plumber.
mrs.sam.heughan If you take a tubing cutter and cut the copper pipe behind the valve, is there still enough pipe protruding from the wall to install a new valve like the one in the video?
+don gaudry Are you sure it's PVC pipe and not PEX? PEX pipe is usually used with crimp rings. Also in the home it would be CPVC as PVC isn't rated for hot water. CPVC is usually done with glue joints. If it is PEX pipe and you have enough slack you could cut the pipe below the fitting on the valve and install a new valve and new crimp ring.
+Mel Mel Check the gasket inside the female swivel nut. If it looks okay, hand tighten the nut then tighten 1/3 to 2/3 of a turn with pliers until the gasket seats.
Yeah... but if the thing you are replacing is the toilet shut off valve itself (which is what your video is about)... you cannot use the toilet shut off valve to shut the water off.
Water also keeps leaking from under the toilet.i changed the seal and caulk it after I turn the water on,I know the seal is on good why you think this is happening?
Alas this did not work for me. After going through the whole process of getting the supply line, top nut and valve not off, I started in on the valve body. I attempted to remove with wrenches as in the video and twisted the pipe. Had to call a plumber. Turns out, there is no lower compression nut or way to remove it. He says the majority of plumbers now use a single pipe + shutoff valve unit that they solder directly on to the copper pipe. No way to separate because they are soldered. My plumber had to cut the copper pipe in the basement and solder on a new L pipe-shutoff valve, because, again, it's usually just one piece, not a removable piece with a compression nut/sleeve. I wish I had been able to do this myself but this video didnt' mention that I would need to solder. Too bad I found out once everything was disconnected :) lol
All of the supply stops in my house have compression sleeves and nuts. I have used a new supply valve with the old compression sleeve and nut because I couldn't get them of the copper pipe.
you should have cleaned off the copper pipe with an emery cloth, otherwise the new ferrule nut will not bite into the pipe well and you'll have leaks, also, why da hell would you replace a crappy shut off valve with another multi turn one? better off going with a quarter turn
Bludika your a hater . Why dont you make a video. I would do a few things different too but bash a fellow plumber no. Just one suggestion though if you show how to do these things arnt you stealing from every other plumber out there??? Obviosly you havnt been doing this long enough. Trim bitch. And check out snap ring uscussions . Tin snips to remove old ones and reuse the the ring and nut . But that's just another way. Your way is good and Emery cloth boy has his little way
I don't understand this video: why isn't water shooting everywhere? I cannot turn off the water to the valve, and the valve won't turn off the water. When I do what he says, water just sprays everywhere! Which step magically stopped the water from coming through the pipe? Confused and wet.
You have to shut off the water supply to the valve before replacing it. On my replacement I had to shut off the main supply to the house before changing the valve.
man your IQ must be like in double digits...you're supposed to turn off the fucking water to the house or property...of course water will shoot everywhere wtf...use your brain for once
