Nicely done. Thanks for taking the time to make the videos. I rarely subscribe or like, but this series deserved it. Laymen terms, real world results....
Great video I really appreciate you taking the time is a blessing to have some guidance I am in the middle of building a Tracker 10w for one person fishing and your videos are answering a ton of questions God bless....
I thought I answered you in another post? I don't recall, I've used 20 different size screws in multiple boats in the past 3 yrs. I literally have a "Screw Tote" . lol. There's no specific one, just use a screw that will grab the rib properly. drill correct size piolot hole, do not strip or overnighten, if all else fails, use rivets.
Yes, they can. Come out easily though. The real question is do you want to be hookless and spend 200$ plus on carpet? If I'm spending that kinda $ then I'd not go with carpet at all and just buy SeaDek
Has anyone ever brought up the metal bar going over the battery potentially causing a serious short? Not sure how you’re having it sit in there, but do be careful of that of course..
Yeah about 20 people...a lot of what I film is still work in progress. When the reveal video comes out, the boat will be done. The bar is a battery tie down which bolts in and holds the battery in place. It's actually plastidipped now but honestly the only way it would cause a short or make contact would be human error of me hitting a terminal unbolting it.
@@Psweezy14 All good man. I actually was going to use the aluminum tie down as a template to make a real carbon fiber one but haven't had time to get that far...
Hooks definitely stick. Price you pay spending 50 bucks on a full boat to carpet as opposed to 500. I'm cool with it, they actually come out quite easy so long as you dont try and yank the hell out of them.
ALUMAHAWK Aluminum Boat paint. I ordered it online. You should be able to find it under a google search. I actually show it and talk about it in one of my videos but not sure which one..
Anthony Jones Oh so the mount is not originally made the way it is in the video? Where did you get the black plastic piece and how is it strong enough to support holding the mount to the frame?
@@kylem2248 I think I'm on the same page now. The mount is aluminum, I painted it black w oil based paint . Besides that I mounted it to the framing and decked over it to hide it. Most guys bolt it on over the deck, i went under for a custom look. It's super strong, actually stronger than mounting it on an aluminum bench because a bench flexes and has foam underneath while my framing has no flex and is solid. Hope this helps. You can get the seat pedestal bracket pretty much anywhere, mine is made by Attwood.
@@tylerlayman8490 Yeah man. 14 x4 is pretty much the most common size boat to mod from what ive seen and is definitely comfortable for just one guy or two.
I used the resin primarily to try and strength to the 11/32 plywood I used for hatches and decking. It also acts as a superior water sealer. I sanded resin coat smooth and painted in oil based paint to match my framing. Framing is not coated in resin, just paint. So the paint over resin is just for aesthetics.
What did you use to paint the boat? What was the method you used? I.e. spray gun, spray paint in a can, or roll on. Can you do a quick walkthrough on that whole process?
Sanded entire interior and exterior with Dewalt sandpaper in 180 grit. On interior there was a lot of hand sanding around ribs, benches, channels. Prob had 20 hrs in prep. I removed paint for most part but so long as old paint was staying on I just sanded it. Not necessary to remove all old paint, just sand for new paint to stick. If old paint is flaking off then you would need to remove it. Once sanded Ickeaned it in mineral spirits, then sprayed it with a 50$ HUSKY paint gun I bought from Home Depot. I did 2 coats. The big deal was I used ALUMAHAWK aluminum boat paint. It is quite expensive but it gave me a better than factory finish. Sprayed on thick, leveled out nicely. The biggest advice I'd have is to spend a lot of time prepping it right then use a high quality paint. As far as video, I could probably do a walkthrough at some point but it really think a step by step would be more beneficial. Until then, hope this helps. There are pictures of the paint process on my Instagram and you can google ALUMAHAWK aluminum boat paint.
This video is why when people tell me "I only shop at Home Depot" i think they are doing it all wrong! If you've got multiple stores available, why not take advantage of it? Youd think HD/Lowes would have the same stuff, and they do for the most part, but when you get down to the details it's scary how different they can be!
What’s up Georgia Boy! I love the channel and this is a great video. I just bought a kit from the Tiny Boat Nation, but I’m going to use your method for the back section. I really appreciate your videos. Go Dawgs!
Hey man so I messed up and didn't take notice of the temperature factor for the fiberglass resin, its 55 degrees in the day and 30 at night and I have it outside. It's not setting right. So can I do the oil based paint and leave out the fiberglass and be fine?
I'd bake it with a heat gun. I've also taken a small amount of resin, added a ton of hardener, mixed quickly, then lightly coated over the tacky resin. This will cause a chemical reaction and all resin will set and harden quickly. Before I figured that out, I'd just sand it tacky w 60 grit and get it smooth but eat up sandpaper. All options. I wouldn't paint over it though. If your asking if you can do another part w no resin, just paint, totally up to you. It would not be completely impermeable like the resin but it could definitely get you by if you do plenty of coats. I did resin just because I knew it would be the best finished product and I've seen guys come back and say the oil based didn't hold up long term as well as they thought. Oil based alone will protect but will not make it waterproof as I did by submerging the hatch in water overnight w no issues.
Pretty light bro. It's all 2x2 western redwood which is lighter than angled aluminum per linear ft. and 11/32 plywood for all decking and flooring. Lighter than almost any modded jon boat with the same amount of work in it besides a few guys running 1/16 aluminum or coosa board. Keeping weight down was incredibly important to me.
