I turn weathered aluminum rigs into boat ramp jaw droppers. I document my boat projects with full build videos, step by step tutorials, walk thrus, and product demos. I'm a guy in his garage passionately building works of art that are built for battle.
I have been a boater my entire life. If you add up all of the weight, cost of batteries, interfaces, disposal of batteries as well as all fo the associated costs, You are a long way from market acceptance. Perhaps a small tiller unit will be acceptable. I believe in the ecology as with The EV. Perhaps that is a direction to go. With respect to a 300 hp electric motor on a bass boat, how can you justify the expense and weight. My interest would to develop better battery technology the motors will soon follow. As an aside that lower unit as well as the huge umbilical looks out of place. Five blade prop screams of torque, not speed or efficiency. Subaru is working a clean technology for the marketplace. It could possibly disrupt the EV market. One thing for sure, the next five years will be moving us into the future. DONT FORGET: MAKE IT IN AMERICA INNOVATE HERE. WE HAVE THE BEST MINDS AN WORK FORCE. 🇺🇸⚓️
Just subscribed and watch all the transom series videos, nice job I am wondering if you have essentially increased the hp rating from factory with your transom job, like if it was rated prior for a ten maybe now it could be a fifteen?
Nope. Battery for this has got to be huge with a limited range. Maybe if you put solar panels on top of the boat but that’s even more weight. So no go.
I literally have this exact same 1436 Alumacraft Jon. This is an awesome video too… because it is almost exactly what I have envisioned over the last 5 months since I got it. Doing several things different… but nearly the same! Thank You. I shall now be coming back to watch this several times on a larger screen. lol
Do you have any tips for hiding wires? I just had the idea of putting some lights on my floor but I have already placed the flooring over the frame and applied hydroturf. I haven't built my deck yet, but a couple of my lights would come from the rear of the boat. Thanks in advance!
How can you do a comparison video when you are actually a partner of ePropulsion !? All people watch this should know that you are a eProp partner, and your opinion here is influenced by the fact that you get benefits for marketing eProp...
Plastic prop on 50hp they need a metal prop. The Plastic props on the smaller outboards isn't as bad (less power to flex the prop). Even though I see performance loss with the Plastic I've seen videos of guys absolutely abusing one(lower power electric) while clearing fallen trees and branches out of their local "river/creek" and they hit stuff alot..they had to replace prop a few times but it's from chiping type damage they didn't loose a full blade like you would expect. I wonder if the higher hp/kw motor props would survive or just explode when they hit something.
Back in the 1980s, I made a pair of floats for a 16' jon that I had... Each was 6' long by 8"x12"... Flush with the transom going forward to the 3' point and from that point to zero at 6'.... All I used was 2" foam board insulation laminated together, and I used construction adhesive to glue them to the boat... The boat was in the river all year like that and were pretty beat up by fall, but I had plans to make another set and fiberglass them and use a sort of keyhole slot system for removing them to clear the trailer rollers and fenders... My brother an I were both right at 200 lbs. each, and those floats allowed us to stand next to each other on any corner of that boat... Pretty much acted like my friend's 20' jon that measured 5' across the bottom, only much lighter.... With mine, nothing protruded back past the transom at all.. The plan was to be able to snap them on and snap them off as you wanted... I'm confident that even with today's insane prices, I could make a set for less than $225-$250... Very, very stable...
