I was talking to Sam Strano, he recommended people not to get Coilover overs because some or most of them aren't really that great for 4th gens. at least that's what I got from the conversation. I can't afford coil-overs tho lmao
if your a auto 3600 stall,headers/exh,intake an get a tune so the trans is changed,sticky tire,lower control arm brackets/suspension because 10 bolts hate wheel hop an u got a nice driver..then if u want, toss a cam an do valve train..
throttle body stop being ground back 1/16 inch or so really works, tells computer to dump more fuel and it sets you back in your seat with a snap. Yukon gears keep the 10 bolt rear end from blowing up. I did 343 gears to keep decent gas mileage and makes it quicker.
I have a good bit of experience with these If you're 6 speed then 4.10 or 4.30 gears are best bang for your buck. Longtubes, Lid, ported throttle body are fairly inexpensive mods for big gains Heads and Cam are labor intensive but absolutely transform the car
I have 98 camaro but I’m not sure what style bumper or fenders(fiber glass or plastic not sure what material) to get and what intercooler do you have? And is it possible to take off that spoiler or is it safer just to add one
One of my first mods on my 00 Z28 (besides slp air box and exhaust) was the Diablo sport tune and mass air flow sensor, huge difference, mine is the 4 speed auto. 0-50 in first gear, 50-100 in 2nd gear, I never pushed 3rd gear all the way but it is hard to believe there is even a 4th gear, for crusing I suppose. Thanks for the video and stay frosty !!! LOL......
I agree with everything you say. I have a 98 TA and have everything slp, intake, MAF, ls6 manifold, LT's, high flow cats, y pipe, and loud mouth 1. Tune and dyno I'm at 370 rwhp. With an auto.
Ya that's an extremely generous dyno. SLP makes garbage stuff to be honest. Loudmouth I-pipe came apart while driving, their headers hang too low. Put it this way I wouldn't buy anything from them ever again besides maybe a lid.
Not sure some amazon brand I swapped them out for stocks a while ago. I was having issues with the halos not working and the seal around the headlights peeling off.
I would say for an m6...skip shift eliminator, a short shifter like a pro 5.0...also how about a tune? That is probably the most important thing to do even if you have just basic mods. For an a4, a higher stall is a must and anything under 3000 is a waste. A yank ss 3600 is ideal. Suspension mods are also necessary especially if you are pushing 400+rwhp. Torque Arm, lower control arms (with relocation brackets) subframe connectors should be done even if the car is stock. Cam/head package is the way to go, you can easily hit 500 engine hp with even just a mild head/cam package. And how about intake upgrade? If you have an 01-02 SS, you already have the ls6 intake. But if you have the 98-00 it's a relatively cheap way to gain 10-15 rwhp. Upgrade to the fast intakes and you gain even more. But yes you are correct in that headers/exhaust is probably one of the first mods you should do, but by adding a better intake and upgrading the heads/cam you'll get the most out of your exhaust upgrades.
your car is sweet i have a 2000 z28 comp cam kit, headers, slp air box, 3800 stallI with lock up, I was wondering what gear would be the best i have a set 4.10 i am running stock 10 bolt with gurdel i also have 3.73 or 3.23 i am running a 275 45 18 drag radial any comment would help on the gaers thiis car only comes out on saturday nights .I have frame conectors the normal stuff on a camaro lower control arms pam hard bar tork arm all by bmr . David .
The coffee can on the end of the exhaust does nothing it's from the header and to the coffee can cap on the end of the exhaust, the bigger between the two makes the difference, also you need to have some back pressure for the engine to run correctly.
Francisco Ribeiro I’m still working on launching the car but when I ran my car at the track when it was almost stock it ran 13.5 and now the best I have got it to so far is 12.8 in the quarter mile. I have driven a stock z28 now after I did all the upgrades to my car and mine is way faster on the street.
dumb question for everyone. whats wrong with keeping a soon to be classic car stock? i recently got a 96 z28 6 speed with 96k that needs a little bit of cosmetic tlc and a few mech fixes like clunking front end the typical rear main seal. Yet everyone says that i should add gears, do this, do that etc.. in my mind im thinking stfu its a fun car all its own and the increasing scarcity makes it more appealing. If i wanted something to show off at the dragstrip I would have gone with a newer Camaro or a Demon. Thoughts?
Not a dumb question man, the best part about cars is they are expression of your personality. If you like a clean car that’s mostly stock, go for it. I have always loved these cars and have always pictured mine as a drag set up so that’s what I built. These cars and fun straight from the factory though. I did not have the money to buy a new camaro all at once and figured a project car that I could constantly buy and add parts too would keep me busy and happy for years.
Nothing wrong with keeping it stock, just don't expect it to be worth alot simply because it's over 20 years old now and considered a classic. The Lt1s are plentiful and can be had for cheap. Seeing as yours has almost 100k miles if you plan on keeping it forever then fix whatever is wrong with it, just dont spend money on like a restoration and expect to get that money back if you sell it.
Okay so I do see a lot of your comments.... Okay so an SLP lead... Is not the biggest part.. There is a big chamber attached to the lead on a stock LS1 Camaro.... Removing that with a big k&n filter like this guy has done is probably more beneficial than an SLP lead..... The Camaro is not like the Trans am..... Where is directly sucking from the Hood... There is a few modifications you can do to the airbox on the Camaro but never achieves getting air from outside of the hood it's all about passing as much are through it as possible....
Ive got an 02 z28 a4, mods: LS6 cam and intake, long tubes, cat delete, slp lid, slp loudmouth 3" and Bmr strut tower support, rear control arms, torque arm and panhard bar. Next mods will be replacing 2.73s with 3.42, stickier tires and a 2800-3200 stall. Current power 365hp and 367 tq rwhp on a dynojet.
First Generation off the Farm Pff im talking about it oiling up when you first get it not when you re-oil. But you go ahead and spend an extra 30 bucks for absolutely nothing. Rookie
@@superpont you are either super lucky or living on borrowed time then. The Ten bolts are ticking time bombs if you launch the cars at the track with a manual.
@@TheFrost7092 20 years of borrowed time? I've been racing a long time and I can tell you the rear end in the 4th gen is considerably better than the 3rd gen. Im going to go with experienced not lucky.
Charles henson the k and n set up I agree with but the strut bar stiffens up the front end. And the headlights are no longer on the car because the fit like trash.
Charles henson I like the strut bar because it helps keep everything tight when I launch the car along with the subframe connectors I have on the car. And I think they were spyder Maybe?
it seems silly to spend tons of money on mods, when for the same or slightly more money either get a turbo, or a ls3 engine for under 15 grand. And the GM 8.5 10 bolt rear can handle up to500 or more horsepower. www.chevrolet.com/performance-parts/crate-engines/ls/ls3 www.andysautosport.com/products/procharger__1GJ214-SCI-D1SC.html www.hemmings.com/stories/article/gm-10-bolt-8-5-inch-differentials
you are going to spend a lot more doing an engine swap then what's done to my car. The 10 bolt rear is junk, anyone who owns one knows that the manuals break the rear with stock power... why do you think i upgraded mine
@@TheFrost7092 I said it can handle up to 500 horsepower. Maybe your poor shifting caused it to break. Sticky tires are not wise on 10 bolt 8.5 rears. Maybe you should read articles i posted. Many classic car and muscle car enthusiasts are looking for a differential that can be easily adapted for daily use, improved fuel economy or for racing. With the costs of Ford 9-inch third members and GM 12-bolts escalating, there are several low-buck alternatives still plentiful at your local salvage yard. The later model GM 8.5-inch 10-bolt differential is just such an option. The 8.5-inch 10-bolt was used in cars and trucks over a wide range of years. First appearing in the 1970 as a corporate replacement for the 10-bolt 8.2-inch or the 12-bolt 8.875-inch, the 8.5-inch 10-bolt was used in many different models by every GM division, with the exception of Cadillac, during the 1970s. Other than its abundant supply at your local salvage yard, another benefit of the 8.5-inch is that carriers and gears are easily interchangeable. Original gear ratios range from 2.41:1 all the way up to 4.10:1 in some pickups. All possible differential ratios above 2.73:1 can be swapped without having to change carriers (except for the truck differentials with 30-spline axles). The 8.5-inch will withstand some abuse; it shares the same pinion shaft diameter as the more expensive 12-bolts. Ten-bolt rears came in both Positraction and non-Positraction versions. Although it would be much cheaper to find one with Positraction already, many aftermarket suppliers can sell you carriers, axles and gears to convert a stock non-limited-slip axle to a Positraction. --------- 10 bolt 8.5 inch rears are probably one of the best all time rears on GM vehicles.
