TOP Problem Areas on 03-07 Ford 6.0 | Secret Tips For Buying a Used Powerstroke 6.0L  

Biggest problem with the 6.0 is the previous owner. 6.0s are great trucks.

"slush box full of neutral" love that expression...

05 Excursion 6.0 not studded pretty much stock had since new awesome truck. 252,000 miles at 100,000 oil cooler went out. Had 1 injector replaced. Lots of glow plugs. Still have egr use to have to clean pretty often. Removed butterfly in air intake seems to run cleaner doesn't plug egr valve and run hot shot additive Yes get an Edge reader to monitor engine. Live in Wisconsin never heard the cooling fan run, come to find the cooling fan chord was cut by cooling fan. So glad we had the reader because we had a road trip out west in July, that could have been bad. Have rust in rockers but not bad. I'm no mechanic but RU-vid and the helpful 6.0 community has saved me thousands.

Add a fuel pressure gauge so if the pressure drops below 45 psi you want to shut it down. They will run with less than 45 psi but it will destroy the injectors. I watch the EGT and water and oil temps all the time. I change the oil every 4000 miles. But the best thing for engines is too work them. They are not meant for hauling groceries. It you work them and keep the veins in the turbo moving. You will have a lot less trouble in the long run.

I just wanted to say I purchased an AirDog 4G 165GPH lift pump from you guys. Great service and quick delivery! You guys rock! 😎👍

I have a f-450 4x4 dump truck with a 6.0 and it is awesome. It recently had a fuel light come on and was watching how you replaced it and it was very informative and I will replace this as soon as I receive my parts. It has 233000 miles and has automatic transmission and four wheel drive. It hauls 5.3 tons like it is nothing . Thanks for your info and help on fuel filters information.

Some additional suggestions when purchasing: Check for matching batteries, if one battery failed then both need to be changed. Use high quality and high CCA battries - the electrical system on these engines are key to long life. The AC pumps on these older trucks fail and plug the condenser, orifice, and sometimes the evaporator - check it. Check your oil for coolant - it is another sign of head gasket problems. Check for Crankcase pressure (blowback) - indication of bad rings and cracked pistons. Listen to the cadence when turning key on - indication of bad injectors. There are often vacuum issues with these older trucks (older plastic lines crack and leak) - check that the cabin air actuator works (if stuck on defrost you likely have a vacuum leak). Listen to the vacuum pump when you first key on - it should run but not for a long time. High mileage - check the drive train (drive shaft and axial universals). Last suggestion - rent a high quality diagnostic computer and check the codes and performance on the ICP, ICR, EGP, EOT, ECT, VGT, IAT(1&2), and injection balance (if the computer can do it). I love this engine, but it has a lot of small things that can lead to big problems. If you want a long life engine, you have to monitor what is going on with live values, so get a monitor.

Absolutely love my 6.0. Building it day by day

“Or pick up guys” 😂😂😂😂

I’ve had my 6.0 all fixed & I LOVE IT 👍🏻👍🏻

I just sold my 14 tundra and bought an 05 super duty I just love it. Straight axles that holds the alignment with a 4in lift lockouts reliable 4x4.

Awesome video, lots of great info I needed. Much appreciated.

Your old Android phone (you already paid for it, might as well get more use out of it), 4.95 for Torque Pro, an inexpensive ELM327 BT obd2 adapter and 20 mins watching DieselTechRon's (RIP) Torque Pro set up video and you will be able to monitor 95% of what you need to keep your truck reliable and catch problems early (like your EOT/ECT deltas). An EGT gauge if you do a lot of towing is about the only other thing you might want.

Really like these vids. Keep em coming!

It always has been amazing to me how everyone talks about how sweet Allison transmission is but no one ever talked about the Ford transmission never seems to have any problems vary interesting. Yup 6.0 has it’s problems no doubt about it. But they really are fixable and becomes a good engine. 6.4 sell that crap ASAP. Still is one of the top Contenders for buying a used truck on the market as long as you do your homework.

I've got a 06 f350. Changed the oil and filters on time... I drive it like a truck. NOT A RACE CAR..... Has ran great. No problems. 130000 miles. Thanks

Thanks for the great input. These Trucks are great only if you do most the work yourself. Other wise they are to expensive to own.

500,000 miles on my 07’ 6.0. Engine never rebuilt. Doors still open and close nicely. Honestly it still rides like a new truck. These 99-07 trucks were the toughest trucks ever made. Regular maintenance and never raced or beat on; just used for work. Just get rid of the EGR bullshit and don’t slap a tuner on it.

You and Powerstroke Help are right ! They also o-ring the heads.

My 2000 7.3 f250 had 350000 km when I sold it, bullet proof reliability apart from endlessly replacing seized brake calipers front and back. To be fair it likely wouldn't have been an issue if I was driving it everyday. It also developed a hard starting issue which was corrected with new batteries. Very informative video as I'm on the hunt for another 7.3.

I have 2. 2004 6.0 powerstrokes I've got over 265,000 miles on my extended cab, stock engine and oem studs. Only upgrades is coolant filter and exhaust and egr delete, no chip, no issues with anything, oem transmission I've had that truck since around 65,000. I keep up on the maintenance and I'm not easy on my trucks towing trailers, or hauling wood, my other 04 crewcab has over 312,000 miles on it and it keeps on ticking stock head studs. Only egrdelete and exhaust, if you keep up on normal maintenance and keep the chip or programmers off stock engines they will last a long time.

Fixed my 6.0 dropped 0.1L to 5.9 2002 24v Cummins no more head gasket issues no more hot no starts no more high pressure oil leaks no more stuck vgt it always starts and always runs the transmission doesn't go out and has one hell of a power band. Now it's the best of both worlds they Cummins in a Ford.

2007- 300k love the truck TKG every time! Zero issues and extremely reliable.

If your headgasket goes bad, O-Ring the heads, put Ford OEM headgaskets, and ARP headstuds on it. Also, put new lifters, 6.4 pushrods, rocker box gaskets, rear main seal, injector cups, new oil pan gasket, and instead of deleting the egr cooler, weld some soft plugs in the two ends of it to block flow, while still being in factory location, and supporting your down pipe...also replace the oil cooler with a new OEM unit on it while its all apart. And you will have a good motor for a long time..... want to take it a step further? Go with an oem oil cooler delete kit from bulletproof diesel or other sources to get rid of the possibility of clogged oil coolers, and have the larger oil to air cooler instead.

Great video thanks for all the great info!

303k miles on my 5r110 had to change the harness on it @300k but was actually cheap and easy to replace. Shift perfectly now

Maintenance. Have an 06 just bought with 92000. Runs perfect. Just take care of her 👌

I've got an 06 and it runs great. If yer having some engine light problems try replacing the batteries. I had this problem but went away after putting both batteries in. 13 mpg in and around 19 highway.

Another thing to check if you have hot air coming out of heater after engine is at operating temperature. If no heat is coming out then that’s another sign head gaskets are blown.

This is a awesome video and a good chanell im thinking of buying a 6.0 in the future. Thank you.

I was Ford certified on the 6 leiptr in the years that I worked on I'm the biggest problem that motor had was the customer driving it follow your Ford maintenance plan at scheduled intervals do everything it tells you to do the six leader left the factory turned up as high in pork and horsepower as was possible for the expected life of the motor punching the power level up larger turbos bigger injectors all bad news for reliability do not extend the oil change intervals I don't care what oil you put in it can't tell you how many times I've seen Apple cord filters because of customers extending it because the oil manufacturer says you can keep a clean filter in it same with fuel filters keep clean filters in it don't extend the filter life cheap coolant is another no no put good coolant in it every 30000 miles do not allow the truck to Extended idle to warm up do not allow the truck to idle while you go in and have lunch these are two of the biggest cause of your intake manifold coking which is the major cause of EGR valves sticking and not operating properly I owned one of these trucks and drove it for more than 12 years and had no problems with anything including head gaskets frequently told an RV with it with no problems water pump issue was a vendor issue the impeller was loosening up on the shaft and coming loose causing the truck to overheat I was told by Ford that was fixed a number of years ago if it ain't broke don't fix it if it is broke I highly recommend Ford factory parts leave the high boost in the rolling coal to the fools

Great info...priceless. thank you!

298k and the factory oil cooler finally went. Absolutely love 6.0s

Hey wanted to add sometimes if its over filled with coolant itll leak. Dealer told me 7-8 gallons of coolant. I tried that with a coolant chnage it puked. Got it down 4 gallons i believe and no more leaking or puking. Daily drove it engine temps never went above 200 either. So hope this helps someone. Had numerous shops an dealers say heads were toast and thats all it was. Had a 04 bulletproofed 6.0.

6.0 can be a great engine, and once done becomes reliable. ARP studs. Fel Pro MLS head gaskets. Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler and billet water pump. Switch away from the GO5/Ford Gold coolant. Delo ELC or Shell Ultra ELC. Blue spring Ford kit to keep fuel pressure up and constant. FICM check/rebuild and Atlas flash puts power back that Ford began sucking out when things started to go sideways 20 years ago. Bypass filtration is so easy, and a big benefit to the reliability. Many kits out there, buy one, DIY one, but DO IT. 10w30 oil keeps the injectors happy, and doesn't shear over a reasonable change interval. Listen to Wade when he preaches... Thoroughbred knows their stuff.

I had the O-ringed big dog cylinder heads put on 4 years ago and never had a head gasket issue since then. ARP head studs and Ford gaskets.

The buyers reviews of Ford vs Dodge: Ford-interior, don’t worry, body, don’t worry, trans don’t worry, engine, worry Dodge-interior, if it has an interior at all you are lucky, exterior, door skins ripping, rust everywhere, dually skirts cracking, grills junk, mirrors junk, trans, NV or forget about it, engine, don’t worry about it 😂

Took listing off about half the cooling system, entire EGR system, and engine teardown/rebuild to finally get to that word - reliable 😅

I've owned a 2006 F350 6.0 since Nov. 2015. It had 68K miles when I bought it. Today it has 165K miles. I tow a 14K-lbs RV approx. four times a year; on average 3K miles/ yr. Truck is almost all stock in appearance. It's not the most reliable truck to own if your livelihood depends on it and is your sole daily driver. Yes, you can save lots of money doing your own repairs and upgrades; otherwise, in general, be prepared to fork over lots of money. Excluding fuel, I keep a detailed spreadsheet on what I spend on my truck. I keep my repair costs separate from my preventive maintenance costs. I perform my own oil and fuel filter changes. I've spent $25K over 6-years in repairs averaging out to $4,200/yr. Not all repair costs are engine alone. Front-end hardware, brakes, shocks, new cab-body mounts, etc. are additional expenses that come to mind. Wade is correct in his assessment of the 03-07 Ford Powerstrokes." Love my 6.0 though; it has its' own cult following. Mine looks good, sounds good and rides good. I get lots of nice compliments on it! And Mr. Wesley has a beautiful truck indeed!

Have one for 18 years, almost 0 problems for 340 KM ( 210 thousand miles) until recently started over heating under load. Not much good news in my future by sounds of it lol. Thanks for the video. Iv never had to add oil between changes, 22 mpg with no load. 12 or 13 with 9000 lb camper. (Canadian gallons )

going to go look at a 6.0 2006 with 275,000 miles. Can you see the if head studs have been put on the truck with out removal of the valve covers? Nevermind---Edit 19:03 you answered that... Thank you!!! Thank you so much. Great Video!!

Great engine and tougher than they get credit for. I have a feeling more of them are pushing high coolant pressure than people even realize. In the northern states we loose our heater long before it starts overheating or pushing coolant out the degas cap. I’d be willing to bet lots of them in the southern states run that way years.

This video it really helped me a lot really save my life really save my pocket🤝🤝👍👍

My 2005 f350 with 113k miles turned off on me on the highway. I found it was a bad IPR valve. I can’t be too mad because the truck is almost 20 years old. In my experience.. an IPR should be changed as preventative maintenance so it doesn’t leave you stranded!

I heard a story of a guy looking at a 6.0. He bought it. Had a cracked head. But also the previous owner put silicone in the degas bottle hose so the coolant couldn’t backflow

I had a 2006 F350 SRW Lariat with almost 270,000 miles when I sold it in 2018. The only thing I had a problem with was the Turbo at 240,000ish miles. EGR was deleted and the head's where never off. Kept clean Rotella in it every 5,000 and fuel filters every 10,000.

Bought my first deisel a little over a year ago. Of course it is a 6.0, King Ranch. Paid 10,000 for an 04 with 140,000 miles. It is as clean as the truck in this video. Perfect condition. Anyway bought a scan gauge 3. I was able to see the I had a 35 degree delta. I actually bought a flush kit and it worked great. Deltas are below 15 after the flush. Just last week with the scan gauge I was able to see my ficm power was dropping to 39 on a cold start. And my battery voltage seemed low. Bad alternator. And I was able to change out the ficm before it did any harm to the injectors. So it definitely a good idea to get some kinda of monitor device. Other than that. I absolutely love this truck. LOVE IT lol.

Outstanding work. I recently had one done by power stroke help in Burford Georgia. Bill Hewitt.. 2006 Amarillo..

Change your oil religiously, use archoil additive in oil, and stanadine fuel additive in fuel everytime you fill up!

I've got a 07 F250 6.0 with 78546 original miles on it. I'm taking it to BPD in Meza, Az for a level 3 pkg. I've upgraded to the Mishimoto radiator, their intercooler, and lower and upper coolant hoses. Just like you said, making reliable for years to come. BTW, the mileage is as stated above. I really don't use it that much so why spend 70 grand or higher on a new truck when I can spend under 20 grand to make it reliable. I've got the super cab model.

Not going to mention the roof seams. The seam sealer usually gets rock hard, cracks and slowly rots the seams out. I’ve seen as much rust on the roof of these super duty’s as I have on the rockers.

from all my truck diesel history,,,i seem to think the stock head bolts...are torqued to the rocker box...and then the box holds the head down...like a meat loaf sand witch..i have a 06 250 4x4...every time i use it...i jet the jitters...thank you for this video

With the 6.0’s if you delete the egr cooler, or upgrade it, then stay up on your maintenance and don’t drive like it’s a race car you’ll be fine. I know plenty of dudes with stock bolts with over 500k miles.

A beautiful and well loved truck as is my '01 Dodge. Would you consider another video showing a more common truck meaning one that has not been so well cared for? I'm not stirring the pot but am curious; does head stud installation require cab removal? Underhood seems more crowded and less shade tree friendly on the Ford. Dodge interior definitely more plastic-y and my dash IS cracked, I have nerf bar-style steps so I don't drag my butt over the seat, seats are pristine. A good video and very informative; it looks as if you can get a good price on a 6.0 Ford and want to spend the bucks you will have a great truck. Yes, my truck has a vp44 injector pump and I have installed an improved fuel lift pump and no, it doesn't have a "53" block. Bought in So. Cal and raised in southern Nevada, no body issues. Dana 60 in front and Dana 80 out back, NV 5600 tranny so that's pretty well covered. NOT bashing Ford at all.

Do all of the upgrades... Standpipe Dummy plugs Egr delete Upgraded oil cooler. Suggest adding an coolant bypass filter. Suggest adding an oil bypass filter. Not needed but doesnt hurt. IPR screen HPOP STC fitting. ARP head studs. Mostly for tuned motors. I run Shell T5 with Archoil every oil change. Do not extend oil changes. I keep mine at 5K miles. Only use OEM filters too. USE OEM PARTS!! These trucks are very picky about the parts you use. Dont use the crap from autozone, etc... They might get ya down the road but I guarantee you will have issues within 6mo-1years. Get an IPR Air test tool. Hopefully, you never have to use it. If you do alot of towing, the cooling system will need to upgraded. Last but not least..get an Bluetooth OBDII adapter with some kind of scan tool. I use torque pro. It doesnt tell me everything but gives me an good idea of what is going on.

I've had 3 6.0's... 2 550's and a 350....total nightmare lol. Unless I had one bullet proofed and everything stock changed out I would never own another one. I bought a 2015 f250 went the 6.2 gas engine and I've never had a problem. I saved a ton of money with that one.

Proper length pushrods after sending out the heads

Just bought one in February of '22. Have heard all the horror stories and jokes, made a few myself before purchasing one. I absolutely love it. It is completely stock except a egr delete and 4in straight pipe from the turbo. I have big plans for it which include bullet proofing it. I'm on a budget being 17 so I do all the work myself with what I have, except the big things. Bought it with a bad injector. Number 7 was dead and 8 was getting bad. Replaced only number 7. Yes, I know it's not proper but I don't have thousands to spend on a mechanic. The reason I only did what I did was because, my mechanic said that it is common to see them throwing codes with a bad injector. Also needed a fan clutch, haven't replaced it because, I have used a code reader and it has no codes? Anyway, I will probably go a different route and do dual fans on the radiator instead. Eventually when I do head studs, gaskets and any other parts I have when the cab is off injectors are on the list. I'm wanting to go with bigger injectors like stage 1. As well as a banks tuner. Don't need or really even want to make big power, just want to make a little more than stock but also not have to worry if I need more depending on the application. I use it as a daily but we have rodeo stock, so when pulling a stock trailer loaded all 15 of the bulls weighing around 1000-1500lbs average, I want to safely be able to make more power without tearing things up from be to hard on it.

egr delete have heads o-ring and studs antifreeze filter better oil filter and keep up with service

I'm very surprised that you didn't mention the adapter that you sell to convert the electric fan clutch over to the 97 mechanical fan clutch. It helps to prevent overheating and head bolt stretching.

Forgot to mention earlier 6.0 coolant reservoirs the min is actually max level and if filled to max level it will push the excess coolant out of the cap…

this would be a geat video as in extremely well done if i knew the type of fuel it was.

My 6.0 is a rust box. Rear fenders rusted out. Back quarter panels rusted out. But all the important stuff was fixed. My truck might look like crap. But its the most reliable motive of operation Ive owned. But want to remove the egr valve and tune it.

I bought an 04 6.0 brand new years back. Every time I stepped on the brakes the power steering went out, the truck was impossible to drive in a parking lot you had to choose between steering or brakes you couldn't have both. Had it back to the dealer at least 6 times for this issue and it never did get fixed. The dealer did rebuild the transmission 4 times though while it was in the shop. Not sure what that was about wasn't having problems with the transmission. As soon as the warranty ran out on it I traded it for a Cummins and have been happy ever since.

I’ve had 2 6.0 power strokes and once there deleted and studded and maintained well it will last a long time

I’m thinking about getting The oil bypass kit for my 06 6.0

On coolant temperature what should be normal operating temperature? An loaded pulling gooseneck?

I have 03. 6.0 bought new 1st Owen have 130000 miles. All needed to do is a new egr cooler . oil cooler . ficma too. Im a truck driver do know about heat on diesel motor. The 1 who don't know about diesel motors will break them because when the tow something heavy up a hill on a hot day. When they get to the top. Stop a store or rest area first thing the do turn off truck. When u need to let truck to cool down before turning truck off. That's y they break the 6.0

I have a 06 i have had all of the fuel and comp system replaced except.for the igr cooler now weather engine cold or hot it rolls and spits coolant oit at radiator wich i have also changedno water in oil no oil in water no miss loss of power And stinks loss a lot of water from exhaust what do youll think heads or iga cooler jeff

Hey guys I’m about to buy a f250 6.0 powerstrokes With 222k. Motor was pulled at 190k for head studs, egr delete, turbo, updated oem oil cooler, 8 155/30 WDI and every single gasket was replaced on the motor. Trans got heavy duty solenoids to handle the increase in power. Any recomendation about it It looks clean interior an exterior there is no leaks and no rust Looks clean just like the one on the video

Add a coolant filter and flush, flush coolant yearly

biggest problem is water circuit. EGR cooler super heats water and doesnt allow oil cooler to cool oil. have to bypass oil cooler, replace heads and studs to make a decent engine out of it.

I've got a question. I have a 2006 f250 power stroke that was was a regency badlander conversion. I don't know much about the badlander except it was some kind of off road package. It's studded with new oil pump and new oil cooler with an sct x4 programmer. Runs great except when I go over 100+ miles my oil change. It runs like crap especially when motor is cold. It's bad until I get oil temp up to 180 at least. It still continues to run some what bad but when I change the oil it's like day and night. Why would it do that?

Given the costs and problems of new diesel trucks, the 6.0 Powerstroke can be worth the investment

Make sure that you drive it with a COLD And not already warmed up motor before you purchase one.

My 2003 6.0 is having strange ia2 issues, i replaced the sensor due to it reading low and even in the negatives, its still doing it after replacing it, the contacts on the connector look pretty dirty i got a can of contact cleaner gonna try that but what else could it be?

I recently purchased an E350 van and was not aware of the 6.0 problems so I've been getting up to speed on what can be done. Great video, very informative. I've not had any problems yet but want to make it reliable. I have a couple of questions from what you said about making it reliable. You mentioned "Get a good quality EGR, good quality water pump, change out oil cooler, freshen up FICM check turbo for correct accuation." Do you have recommendations on which EGR, water pump, oil cooler to use as replacements? Also, can you clarify what you mean by "freshen up FICM?" Should it just be replaced? I'm a complete novice so any direction you can point me would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Holy shit man, a lotta good information but you just deterred me from buying a diesel….i don’t want to buy something that requires this much maintenance….although i love a good sounding whistling 6.0…😎👍

You want a reliable 6.0 powerstroke? Buy it from an older man or a working man that used the 6.0 for work amd not for racing. I have seen plenty of 6:0 powerstrokes with well over 400k miles with minor upgrades on stock head bolts. Change your oil every 3500 miles man. Seriously these engines shear oil fast. Proper maintenance folks. I have a 2003 6:0 powerstroke with subtle uogrades no head studs just bolts. 260k miles with factory turbo head gaskets bolts etc.

That is a beautiful engine compartment

I’m sorry but You look like Mike pence 😂 your very knowledgeable and informative thank you

Aside from the obvious legalities what are your thoughts on EGR Delete on the 06 6.0 as far as pros and cons to the life of the engine. Bear in mind it's not one that is used for towing as much as it is for hauling scrap metals and isn't beat on but was bought in relatively rough shape and fixed up recently

I've got a 05 6.0, runs well with lots of power but it will randomly stall especially when you slow down abruptly. The only code I get is cylinder 4 misfire. But did inject buzz test and all sounds great.

Great video! I just finished making a 6.0 "reliable" with a local professional. My question: do you have a video or can you make one that highlights all the items you watch on a monitor? I have heard items like EGT, coolant pressure, temp, etc. What are the normal readings and what would be an example of a reading that would be outside a normal range that would indicate a problem?

Just recently traded in my '06 6.0 for 2020 f150 coyote 5.0. Honestly, the 6.0 was a decent truck for me. Had an egr cooler delete, 4" exhaust and various other upgrades. Being on 35s with a negative offset, I did wear out front end components that lead to a power steering pump failure. I spent $2800 upgrading the high pressure rail system, etc.. But then I realized that most of my issues I was having was related to diesel transfer to the oil system due to injectors. If it wasn't for the rusty roof, etc., I probably would have kept her longer. (Spend more $$ on an old truck or get a newer one).

My 6.0 broke down every 5000 with the standard horror stories. Finally I put in the Bulletproof Diesel system and has now gone 50000 miles with zero issues..

Look at the cab mounts. The factory ones are junk. I installed s and b silicone mounts and it's a huge difference!

Buying studded 6.0s can be a gamble too! Especially if just been done. Poor install usually fail 10k-25k miles after. Some assholes like to do the 1 at a time without pulling heads Dead giveaway is they leave the far rear driver-side a tty bolt. cant swap stud without fuckin up firewall.

Plus you didn't mention the stc fitting and stand up pipes

6.0 are awesome power no problems for the 80k miles i drove for i bought it at 140k miles 2005

Interior - middle seat console lid pretty much comes apart on all of them.

I got a question can anyone awnser please? I have an 04 f350 bullet proofed, deleted ect ect I have random temp spikes very random and disappearing coolant but no leaks what is my issue??

06 6.0 van wow crazy power

After you have the head decked you gotta put a smaller push rod I believe they are 6.4 push rodes.

We had a fleet of Sick.oh f350s , nothing but trouble but one duramax that had 500000 miles and only replaced 1 lifter pump

Thanks for doing this video. Any info. on a 4x4 manual transmission version? Any thoughts on the transmission, clutch, etc.?

Ford don't make an extended cab and this isn't ford's 1st attempt at a vgt its an international engine. But all in all a pretty good video. I like the reliable instead of bulletproofed terminology. Because you can't pull that off with the DC driven injectors.

My 2007 F-350 6.0 started acting up and then just died. It was running fine after having one injector replaced. Had new oil cooler installed and lines. Radiator and coolant all were flushed clean of any access sludge. All total i spent $ 5800 having all new brakes/Rotors and Calibers plus all ne brake lines. Got it back and it ran fine for a couple days. Then for the first time it started loosing power until it goes into limp mode. The motor then will fo nothing but idle. You can try to give it more gas when its in this limp mode. But the motor will not rev up at all. It just stays at an ideal for 5=10 minutes and then starts idling rough and rougher until it just dies. And the only way i can get it to start back up is to give it a just a squirt of either. When I do it will start back up. But it either goes right into that limp mode idle anc and wont rev up. And other times it will rev up for a bit but dont have enough power to get it to move without it dieing. I changed the fuel filters because it had some old fuel that has been setting for right at 2 year's. But by the time when i got it out of the shop it was running fine. But for the First time ever the engine light came on. But after driving it about 300 miles give or take. The engine light went out and the truck was still running fine no misses or lack of power. But after the light went out and a couple hundred more miles. Out of nowhere WITHOUT ANY KIND of warning lights on it started doing the same thing. It looses just a little bit of power and then goes back into that limp mode. Then It looses power until it just goes into an idle for 5 to 10 minutes max and then starts idling real rough and wont rev up ANY. I can mash the pedal to the floor and it just has NO RESPONSE. And after a few minutes it dies and wont start back up for nothing. Unless i give it a small squirt of either. Then it will start again but with the SAME RESULT. It goes into an idle and then eventually it dies again. And all it will do is crank over but wont start on it's own without a splash of starting fluid. It only has around 178.000 miles on it. I don't know what else to do or try to do. With what i gave for the truck and when I bought it. And after the $ 5,800 i just spent on it i have around $ 30,000 tied up in my truck. I hate to get rid of it because of the MAJOR LOSS of MONEY I have spent on it that i will lose on it Everything else about the truck is in perfect working oder. The leather seats are all in perfect condition front and back. The interior is all in almost perfect conditions. No stains/rips or tares anywhere. Even the carpet and head liner has NO ISSUES. IM no mechanic so i dont want to start trying to any major repairs. But I'm at a loss on how and or what to do or even try to do next. My only income is my SOCIAL SECURITY DISABILITY and so i don't have any extra money to get it worked on again. And I refuse to sell it for a little of nothing. Desperate Disabled Grandfather in central Missouri. Thanks for any and all help i can get. Steve Craven Middletown Mo.

Nice looking truck but could use some mud flaps.

Best Buy in the used diesel market and the best overall truck from those years hands down. The 5R110 holds up to added power much better than Allison.