Cliff has helped me out with my customers heaters and he is the MAN! With the plethera of good videos like this, all can become good at fixing the bullet heaters. If you listened close and you have worked on a few heaters as I have (never as many as Cliff), you realize to make the heater work properly....its all about the AIR! Whats not talked about alot in detail in other peoples videos (where most dont know what they are talking about anyways) is HOW to check for leaks. Fill a spray bottle with dishwashing liquid and water, if you can spray it down while its running, theres no better way to find your leak! I had all brand new parts on my heater and still had running issues...Once I did that spray test i found my brand new filter cover was defective leaking in 3 places. That part came from ebay. I only buy from Cliff now. Had same symptom as one stated below: ran with top off not on...bending blades was not neccesary...fixing the leak is whats necessary.. Now i get all my parts (and advice) from Torpedo heat-Hes the MAN! Sincerely, Craig @ Champs small engine repair, Norfolk, VA.
Sir, I'd like to thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I have a 75k Mr Heater that I've been fighting with for years and never been able to get it to burn good. I took it apart and found that I had about a .0025 gap on my rotor and the exhaust manifold had a probably .0005 groove worn in it in the wrong spot. I used a piece of glass and started with 220 sandpaper and sanded it down until the groove disappeared, then staggered up to 1500. Reassembled via your instructions, cleaned the nozzle the way you've described in another video, and this heater burns better than it ever has! Also, I found that my plastic plug where the gauge goes was apparently leaking air even with Teflon tape. Put in a steel plug. Thank you again for helping guys like me make this old junk work good again!
I've fighting low pressure on my heater that's only 2 years old. waiting on my vane kit to get there. I had no clue there was that much to pay attention to. Thank you for a great video years later it's till helping folks.
Thanks for laying this all out step by step. It is much more detailed than the Reddy Heater manual. I learned a lot and was able to diagnose and fix my Reddy Heater 55.
Just look at the side of the manifold where the rotor contacts and you will see exactly where it sits. Glad to help (216) 801-6215 for parts and service
I had been messing with my reddy heater for 2 weeks, new pump, new phot cell, new lines nutten.....til you explained how to adjust that dang pump. THANK YOU, works like new now.
Thank you for taken your time to show us all that is involved!! HAY Keep the b.t.u. rocken!! All New parts for a master 135t see how it goes!! Thanks for the video it was awesome!! Ps. You don't need a video man !!!! LOL thanks again!!!!
Hi and thanx for the video compliment. If you cant get the pressure you must have a leak somewhere. Spray the whole air system with soapy water and start the machine and see if you get any bubbles. Bubbles are a leak you have to stop. Dont get any spray in the motor or on the wires and such.... NOW if you want to see if the air compressor is right then cover the hole on the air outlet fitting and cover the pressure adjustment screw. If you have a pressure gauge doing that should bury the needle. NOTE :::: DO NOT COVER BOTH PORTS FOR TOO LONG IT WILL BLOW OUT THE ROTOR KIT YOU INSTALLED. JUST BOUNCE YOUR FINGER OVER THE FITTING AND SEE IF THE NEEDLE JUMPS. You probably should call so we can go over the heater. (216) 801-6215 Thanx again
@@TorpedoHeat thanks for the come back,im going to try reinstalling those veins ,and follow what you said about them being flush with rotor ,those veins can be easy to install wrong and then ill check for leaks i am getting fuel up to nozzle i just dont think theres enough air pressure to spray proper to fire ill let u no thanks again
Problem solved!! Great video, thank you so much!! Setting the "gap" is something I never did before on one of these and WOW what a difference!!! outside of the video: I used a diamond knife stone on the surfaces lubed with WD-40 to flatten them out a bit after steel wool didn't get rid of all the crust. Worked like a charm.
The rotor on my stove is slightly smaller in diameter, when you put the rotor on the lid in the center, you can see that the rotor does not completely overlap these two slots in the lid, the rotor itself is without a working out, why I don't understand. Tell me what to do?
Look at the metal rotor cover and see where the rotor was at and which slot it covered. Otherwise make sure to cover the exhaust slot fully Call (216) 801-6215 if you need help
@@TorpedoHeat This issue has been resolved. But there was a new problem, air suction between the ring and the back cover, when I start the stove, there is not enough pressure, siphonite between the planes, there were not big bullies, I polished a little with a waterproof skin, on the plane of the mirror (the mirror is perfectly smooth) Apparently erased a special factory sealant that was applied with the diameter of the holes in the lid. Do you know what kind of sealant can be used? the gasket does not fit((there is some kind of special sealant needed, I do not know what.
@@levkamenev3476 Spray all the air pressure parts with soap water. The filter cover air line and fittings must be tight. DO NOT GET ANY SPRAY IN THE MOTOR OR ON ANY ELECTRICAL COMPONENT PARTS LIKE WIRES AND ELECTRIC CONTROL BOARDS. Spray with soap water and start the machine and look for bubbles. If you get bubbles that is a leak you have to stop (216) 801-6215
Very well done video if I say so myself... Very informative, precise, and so well spoken a first grader could have understood it... Well done my man...
@@TorpedoHeat you are more than welcome for the reply. Credit goes to those who deserve it, and your effort and time taken out to make this video clearly shows that you are trying to help people fix their heaters the correct way. And I know this, because when it comes to the subject I know a little bit about what I'm talkin about , and without this little trick being shown to people they would not get their heaters going.period! Again, excellent video!
Thanks for the video. I have Mr heater 175,000 BTU never worked right from New so it sat for 10 years . I replaced all hoses cleaned tank still didn't work . Ya no air no start. Took air pump apart and from the factory the center insert on rotor plastic totally missing it was never put in so rotor never spun because shaft from fan just spun inside rotor ya totally quality control issue. I ordered parts should be here this week. Now I have another issue on the one side the kerosene tank is leaking right by the center seem where bolts bolt on center flange of tank for carrier Does jb weld work to seal tank flange back up ? Please advise.
drj Westfield Wisconsin hi Peter i have a DYNA.GLO DELUX PROFESSIONAL GRADE moel #KFA135DGD torpedo heater. I can only get 2psi even with Teflon tape on all screws.can the high low switch be causeing the problem? Can you please help me, thank you I like your videos very informative.
Great video I have dayton 3ve52 I am only getting 3.5 psi I followed the video to the letter but I have air leaking between the air filter Cover and the filter so am assuming it's being lost there my heater requires 8psi to specs pls help me with parts I may need
Great videos. Its nice to see how to videos from people that actually know what they are doing. I just got a mi t m 190000 btu heater that about a year old and the rotor blew apart. Does that mean the ring isnt adjusted properly. Also is that clearance you stated good for all torpedo heaters including mine. Also i have feeler gauges, are they too wide to make that adjustment or should i just use paper like you did?
That clearance is pretty much good across the board. Sometimes those rotors explode. You should replace it with out taking the ring off if you can. Torpedoheatparts.com has all the parts you need.
This is great. I have rebuilt everything in my Masterheater 55000 btu but it still won't reach the 3.4 lbs pressure. I'm wondering if the actually electric motor is weakened now.
Mike often times people come to me and they think the motor is bad or spinning too slow. Usually the motor is good. It is a small motor that dosent turn too fast. It sounds to me like you have an air leak. Call me and we will go over it. (216) 801-6215
I would not bother you with a phone call but thank you very much for offering. I will say that I have replaced all air and fuel lines and they seem tight and the air gauge is mounted on the pump itself. I notice that the motor gets hot just running under zero pressure and doesn't like to start when it's cold outside and I really need it to thaw out my plow truck. I can't find a way to test the motor. Thanks for your reply, I do appreciate any suggestions.
I tore the heater down again today, even the motor, which looks really clean and in great shape inside. On the bench it runs but vibrates a little and it gets too hot to touch within about 5 minutes running under no load. That seems odd to me but it was meant to run inside the unit next to a fan in cold weather so that could be okay. I'll be putting it back together now very carefully looking for air leaks and lubing the bearings. One thing I have been unable to determine about this motor is if it has a start / run capacitor and where that might be. I assume it must have one but don't know if it could affect performance. I don't know how to post a picture of it, being an old retired guy with no computer experience but it is a B50F model purchased around 1995. I assume I am missing something very basic and I will be embarrassed when I find it but I will make it known for the sake of helping others.Thank you.
I have a question, if you would be so kind. I replaced a rotor kit on a master mh-135. 135k btu. It's only had 4 hours on it since I purchased it last winter. Do you know why the rotor sits so off center? I couldn't find the part where I purchased the heater. I had a philco, did some cross reff. And found it had the same rotor, It was very off center. As mine was busted, I didn't see iOS it sat, b4 I removed the pieces. With the veins being so far off center, doesnt the magnets or the metal that goes In The rotor wheel, come half way out at the bottom turn. That alone can break a rotor. Is that normal?
Did you even watch the video??. There's no damn way you watched the whole thing. Don't ask stupid questions if you didn't take the few minutes to pay attention. He precisely mentions what you asked about and demonstrates it !!
How are you my name is Paul I’m from the UK I was wondering I have a torpedo heater is a very old one I was wondering if it would be possible to roll vegetable oil mix kerosene and diesel if I do well This wear out the main jet and also are used one of your very early videos to clean out the unit when I was given it and with your help I have a fully functioning Peter thanks for the videos and keep posting
Thanx Paul glad to help. I dont advise mixing any kind of oil with your fuel. Torpedo heaters can really burn Diesel fuel 1 and 2. Kerosene and jet fuel. Fuel is abrasive so the main jet will wear out sooner or later. Burning oil may cause smoke leading to a headache and or burning in your eyes. A torpedo heater is safest when it runs with the front cone glowing red to burn all the fuel.
We just installed a new pump rotor kit in a dewalt heater and it was not flush, the rotor and veins were sticking out very little. Can you adjust the ring out or is the kit wrong?
The rotor kit that is used for that heater has vanes that will stick out when installed wrong. Just turn them a quarter turn then they should be flush. If you need to !! cover the exhaust hole if you cant cover both ports.
Torpedo Heat don't know, another guy did it, I'll check tomorrow and let you know. Thanks for taking the time to help me and appreciate any future help!
Your vids are informative and fairly well-done. This one has quite a bit of redundant material. Some info re-stated four, five, six times which would be fine if this were a live lecture. However, a video can be "rewound" and played several times if info was missed. We finally got some helpful info at minute 7! Also, the vane install is covered quite extensively in another video. IMO, this 24 min. vid could have easily been done in 10-15min. Those of us with satellite service need about an hour to watch this vid! Nonetheless, thank you as it does cover all info for a rebuild!
I have a Dyna-Glo 75000 BTU I used it 2014 seven times I light it up now and it won't ignite I don't know if it's a control board or the spark plug or the spark plug box that plugs into the control board is there any way to test all three of these without buying all three of these
Most likely the filter cover is cracked. If you are very careful and shine a flashlight in the photocell that should keep the heater running telling you the electronics are good. This is the filter cover you need but test it for leaks with soapy water first. torpedoheatparts.com/click-here-for-parts?olsFocus=false&olsPage=products/filter-cover-3221-0029-00-dynaglo-thermoheat-288310040-572696
Most likely it is the spark coil or transformer. Before you replace it you need to check it for air leaks. Spray the rear filter cover with 409 or fantastic soap water then start the heater to see if you get any bubbles. Call me @ 216 801 6215 and I will walk you through the repair process.
I've had my Reddy Heater 55,000 about 25 years. Have to work on it occasionally. Today it wouldn't start so put low pressure gauge on it. Spoda read 3.4 psi, it was only reading 3.0. Futzed with the vanes and noticed after removing them that 2 of the 4 sides were flat across and 2 were rounded. One rounded side of each vane was contacting the outer wall. Thought, me smart, me put a fresh straight side touching the wall instead. Cleaned the vanes put it together and started it and got a horrible reading of only 1.5 psi. Went back in n put one rounded edge of each vane pointing out toward the 'cylinder wall' and restarted. Got 4.0 psi and had to adjust it down weaker to 3.4 and it runs perfectly again. Just a heads up.
Hello me again but did everything you tell me but now I try to found that presuse but I don’t found and buy couple stuff I put in but it do something???
Hello i am looking for a rotor kit for my heater. but it seams like its a bit a strange size, it is 23mm wide the widest i have found are 19mmcoud you help me out?
Hello I have a dyna glo 125,000 I have lo pressure and heater doesn't fire up unless I pull the top cover. I removed the rotor after noticing that the plates were not "falling" as it rotated I cleaned them up with a scotch brite pad and now they work great, however I still have about 2 psi maybe 2-1/2. So I watched your video and realized that the pump cover was not adjusted correctly as I can see the edge of the rotor from both intake and exhaust ports but when I tried to adjust it out I cannot make the cover move enough to cover the rotor? Does this mean that my rotor is just worn down? I also checked the pump plate adjustment and it seems to be spot on( the distance between the top of the rotor to the bottom of the pump plate) any advice is much appreciated, this has been a great heater it is about 8 years old and has worked flawlessly until now.
If you cant cover both the exhaust and intake ports then make sure the exhaust port is covered to the edge. I would say replace that rotor kit as they dont like scotch pads. Thats rebuilding the compressor so I reccomend a filter cover, pump kit and filters to make it complete. When you install that black plastic filter cover you have to use teflon tape on the threads and silicone under the heads of the screws. You cant screw the screws in and put silicone on top. That wont work. You also have to use teflon tape on the pressure guage threads and on the air outlet fitting. Basically you are sealing up the filter cover and making it tight. Try that then check for leaks.
Usually rotor and vane kits dont like scotch brite pads. It sounds like you need to check for air leaks. Is that a dual btu output heater ?? If you cant cover both ports then make sure the exhaust port is covered. You can call me at (216) 801-6215 and I will walk through it with you
Jim rust. I generally find that if you have to remove the top off of your heater, someone has tweaked the fan blades. What I mean by that is, I see people's heaters that they have taken apart and what they have done because they're heater will not fire up with the top on it , they will grab their fan blades and not been them forward or backwards, but try to tweak them to the sides to make the fan displace more air " ie change the angle of the blades to produce more Force ". The reason it is not firing with the top on is because you are blowing your flame out before it can even get started because there's too much air , so when you take the top off that relieves some of the wind tunnel effect on the unit and therefore it allows it to fire up and run okay. Try tweaking your fan blades so that they lay flatter and there's not such a curvature of the blade to produce more air, and then put your top on and try it. You'll have to play around with it a little bit to get it where you want to go, but I believe this may help solve your problem. Hope it helps
The question begs to be asked: "Why did the manufacturer produce the pump ring and rotor cover with such wide tolerances?" They both move all over when loose and have to be adjusted for proper operation. Why not just produce the assembly with close tolerances so reinstall needs no 'adjusting'?
Yes no adjustment would be nice. The ring always has to be adjusted but some new heaters have holes for the exhaust manifold that are counter sunk with screws to match. I guess they figure if you cant repair it then you will buy a new one.
Tight tolerances are more costly to produce. Are you willing to pay more when a simple adjustment can save you hundreds of dollars? Do you really want rocket science or a simple space heater?
OK so if you got no air pressure you need to check it for leaks. Use soap water to check the filter cover, hoses, air fittings and everything from the back to the front. Im thinking you may have a bad air hose but thats just a guess
