High and low pressure injector nozzle breakdown. Radiation shield, pump adjustment kit and burn chambers. www.torpedoheat.com/ Call (216) 801-6215 for parts or service
Well done!! Thank you for your excellent tutelage on how these torpedo heaters work and in doing so in a manner that ensures that everyday joes, such as myself, can easily follow and understand. I’m no intimidated by how these simple and yet totally amazing machines work. Looking forward to watching your other videos. Again, very well done sir!!
Excellent description of the nozzles, I have taken to youtube to help diagnose my own. Using your video I was able to identify and take apart mine. However mine is completely different, I have a B600D Master and feel as tho I had a clogged nozzle, unit worked fine for a couple of days, now it will not light off. I took it apart and found nothing at all, cleaned everything up, re tested with the same result, i would get flame but it trips out and shuts down, I have noticed excess fuel dripping straight down, That's what lead me to believe it was partly plugged. I tested the fan switch and photo cell both tested good, checked the wiring back to the distribution blocks, all good. I did notice that my fuel pressure is only 100 psi (should be 110) so the pump is my next item to take apart. Attempts to turn the pressure up using the screw has proven ineffective.
Super great video. Extremely helpful to diagnose my Reddy Heater R150A. Has an issue where it fires in pulses for around 5 seconds (cut off by optical sensor). It's odd because it runs fine with the top cover off but will not fire/stay lit with it on. Turns out I'm missing the spring for my nozzle. Hoping that fixes it.
I recently got a 165 pro reddy heater & the the ignitor was burned right off. However after watching the description of what you mentioned in regards to check ball screw, mine was turned in at least 6 full turns past the flush end . I have ordered parts to repair but somehow assume with the increased air pressure also raised the heat chamber & fried the ignitor. using a stemmed gauge to clear check ball adjustment screw in order to set proper working pressure. wish me luck ! Cold weather here to stay for a few months ! lol
Great video! I have sears 140,000btu torpedo heater. I've cleaned the air pump and air lines. Also cleans the fuel line and cleaned the fuel filter. It's still trouble shooting. I took apart the fuel nozzle. It had the 2 washers and the rubber gasket. But was missing the spring spacer. Does it need the spring spacer to function correctly.?
i have a 210,000 heater replaced hoses tuned up pump fresh fuel and filter plenty of pressure good spark not picking up fuel only get a little fire could it be a nozzle its clean and o-ring looks ok it wont pick fuel up with shop air either
I appreciate all the information you’re providing here. I have a Reddy 50K. It specifies 3.6 psi but I can’t get more than 3.2. The pump vanes seem fine though they could have worn over the years. They drop easily. I’ve cleaned all the pump and manifold parts. Any suggestions?
Most heaters that are in need of repair need a tune up and have air leaks. The rotor kit is like pistons in a car. If you remove it you must put it back exactly the same way. Like in your car you cant change the position of any given piston or twist or rotate it. That heater costs about 60 dollars shipping included to tune up. You can call if you like... (216) 801-6215... I have followed your channel
@@TorpedoHeat im wondering if the vanes have possibly worn (shortened) over the years. This unit is pretty old. Not sure the year. If I pinch off the pump output the pressure goes way up
Can a nozzle cause low air pump pressure? I have removed the air line at the nozzle adaptor and the pump will build pressure if I put my finger over the end. When I hook up the line back up the pressure won't go past 5psi and the model requires 7.5psi.
I've got a ready heat pro 165 my father gave me someone gave it to him the motor didn't move and he didn't want to mess with it. I took it completely apart cleaned old the dust and rust from it oil the motor and it turns now. It tries to light but doesnt really combust. When looking into it I can see the spark plug sparking its king of purplish spark. It seams like its lighting just the side of nozzle and getting some flame but not a full cone like maybe to much air kind of like trying to light a blow torch with oxygen and gas mixed already. I've backed the adjustment out as far as it can go. Any suggestions?
Any idea what my problem could be? 80,000 BTU I believe, master heater, I got the compressor set at recommended PSI, ignitor works as it should, but it flames up and goes out, flames up, then goes out, at a closer inspection I noticed the air and fuel ratio wasn't consistent, the spray pattern would thin out and spray more air causing the flame to go out, both fuel and air lines have no leaks or cracks, now do you think it could be a bad nozzle? I took apart and cleaned everything and still no luck, I'm here in Maine working new construction and have an addition to work in and it's 3° out this morning, been trying to figure it out since last summer and never really needed it till now, any input would help, thanks.
I just rebuilt my reddy 165,000 from rotor to nozzle & my pump pressure is set to specs. It fires up but flame protrudes nose cone & shop fills with a haze of smoke! I have adjusted + or - to see if fine tuning would help but Is it possible the nozzle size is for Kerosene only & not variable like my protemp 125,000 which burns either, & no issues
Hello torpedo heat hiping you can answer a question. I have reddy heat 170t. Couldn't get pressure above 4 psi. Replaces rotor and now can't het it lowered down from 12-10 psi. I need to get to 6. I adjusted tolerance from .003 to .004 inches. I tried to adjust spring and ball and cleaned out injector, still get over 10 psi. Wondering if I should go further and allow tolerance to go to .005 or .006 or try to replace spring and ball?
Usually people get enough pressure. You might want to replace the filter cover and the spring and ball. Then make sure the filters are installed right. You can call me at 216 801 6215 Here is a link to the cover torpedoheatparts.com/click-here-for-parts?keywords=m16545&olsPage=search
. Well I had the luck of finding one stainless steel spring at my local hardware store. I watch your other video and they helped me get my heater running and its going strong. Thanks. God Bless!
Hi Timothy. That could come from 2 things !! 1 a bad ignition system 2 improper fuel atomization. You need to check the heater for air leaks and see if it has spark or the hot surface igniter gets hot.
For the nozzle you are showing at 10 minutes, I am losing pressure with this style of nozzle, mine had a copper crush gasket inside when I took the inside nozzle out. Where does that gasket go back in? I assumed it goes on the top of the barrel piece before the silver nozzle head is put in.
I have never seen one with a crush washer. Maybe someone put in in there trying to fix it. If you tell me the model number of the heater and make I can look up the nozzle. You most likely are losing pressure somewhere else like the air line or air fittings. Thes the air system for leaks with soap water but DONT GET ANY WATER IN THE MOTOR OR ON THE WIRES. BE CAREFUL WITH THE SOAP WATER AND HAVE A RAG HANDY TO WIPE UP THE EXCESS WATER. ALSO KEEP YOUR FINGERS AWAY FROM THE FAN BLADE WHEN YOU TURN IT ON.
@@TorpedoHeat it is an mh140ktr, I have completely taken apart and cleaned everything, new hoses, filters, gaskets. I have cleaned rotor, replaced gauge and ball and spring as well, all fittings have been wrapped with Teflon as well, I have a new nozzle coming in the mail hoping that it is the issue. I have sprayed down pump, and hoses with soapy water. I have no leaks up to the fuel nozzle and none after. The oring looks good but the nozzle is about the last thing I believe could be causing the air leak.
You need to watch our video on air compressor rebuild.!!! Plus you arent supposed to clean, sand or remove the rotor veins so you should replace that. You also should put cheap, thin teflon tape on the threads of the screws that hold the filter cover on. Air can leak past those threads. Teflon tape is also needed for the pressure gauge and air outlet fitting. Go to our Torpedoheat channel and look for air compressor rebuild, Im sure that video will help you !! We send the proper teflon tape free with each order that needs it !!@@danskibbe2070
I'm looking to find a fix for my torpedo heater , it's putting out fumes to where u can't use it in a closed garage and burns ur eyes but it hasn't always done this and it don't do it continuously. .. what causes it to do this ? Thanks in advance.
I have another heater but i think it's less than 5 years old and don't get used very often and it's putting out a lot of exhaust fumes that burns ur eyes as well . Both are doing it and it's like almost immediately have the strong exhaust fumes ...
I got a remington 80K and the pressure adjustment screw popped out. I managed to place the ball and the spring back and it sits at 3.8 PSI. It burns #2 diesel from the pump but it smells very bad now. Initially it didn't smell so bad. The fuel nozzle appears clean and I blew compressed air through it. What do you think might be causing the bad diesel smell now? Does K1 smells less than diesel?
@@tarzanjammyy If the heater is running right the smell will go away. Check for an air leak. Check the compressor the air outlet fitting and the hoses.
@@TorpedoHeat okay. Thank you. It appears to run fine. The fire was 1 inch over the rim when on with the specified 4.2 PSI. I reduced it and got smell. They mentioned that depending upon the altitude and fuel it might have to run in high pressure to see to reduce smell. Not sure.
When taking the nozzle out of my 80,000 btu Dyna Glo heater I noticed 75 stamped on it. I assume they are just using the same 75,000 btu nozzle as in the older 75,000 btu heaters.
Probably. Nozzles can handle a bit more or a bit less and still aspirate the fuel properly to get a nice clean burn. But you couldnt use a 75K btu nozzle in a 110K btu heater. It just couldnt handle the amount of fuel needed.
@@TorpedoHeat I did install a 215,000 btu nozzle in an 80,000 btu heater to see if it would throw a hottter flame (and it did!) just to see if it would work. I think the pressure would need to be readjusted to make it burn correctly however.
an 80K btu burn chamber cant burn 215K worth of fuel. It would spit out flames from the front burning your eyes and giving you a headache.. If you drop the pressure too much on the bigger nozzle it wouldnt aspirate the fuel well enough to burn. @@PainterD54
@@TorpedoHeat Yes, I did notice flames shooting out the front with the larger nozzle, so I assumed it was not burning efficiently. It was just an experiment to see the difference between nozzles. I'm sure there are many variables between units also like burn chamber lengths and diameter, fans, pumps, etc. that add to their burning efficiency.
I just run mine off shop air at 6psi 3 years and still running. With the impeller removed the fan runs better ut seams. Now ut just burns better smelling.
It will work that way but it could be a problem also. If you lose ignition it will pump lots of raw fuel in the air especially at 6 PSI. If the heater fan stops or loses electrical power it will be burning without a fan turning. The photocell might also turn the fan off. If you must run it that way then be careful !!
Thank you sir I cleaned the nozzle very well it will not create a strong vacuum to pull the fuel I bypassed the pump and used my compressor to spray into the line so I knew for a fact I had plenty of pressure and it will not pull the fuel
Is that Cleveland area code your close to me I’m in Louisville Ohio Iv fought this thing for 5 days and I’m almost spend as much In parts as the thing is worth
Okay I got up Dyna-Glo 180 to 220 I replace the the pump got my air pressure back I watch the video that says that adjustment shouldn't be buried inside the cover I bought it used last summer never got to work I just got to fire but it's really burning my eyes brand new diesel number 1 diesel tank clean nozzle been cleaning hoses don't appear to have cracks in them the the pump assembly wasn't seating leak around the pump assembly the switch on the cover is broken and now it works but it takes 3 times for it to start but it sprays a lot of fuel is that normal
No that is not normal. A heater should start in a snap then it will get red. Now those filter covers with a red SWITCH or a black KNOB have to be modified to a single BTU output. If you dont modify it then you will fight with the heater for a long time. The filters should also be replaced since they have they gasket on them. Here is a link to the part you need torpedoheatparts.com/click-here-for-parts?olsPage=products%2Ffilter-cover-3221-0029-00-dynaglo-thermoheat-288310040-572696 Here is a link to the filter kit torpedoheatparts.com/click-here-for-parts?olsPage=products%2Ffilter-kit-sp-kfa1005-kfa1005-dynaglo-thermoheat-more-70-054-0200-some-lbwhite-572227 And here is a link to the pump kit for the cover torpedoheatparts.com/click-here-for-parts?olsPage=products%2Ffilter-kit-sp-kfa1005-kfa1005-dynaglo-thermoheat-more-70-054-0200-some-lbwhite-572227 Notice the black gasket on the filters and the single BTU on the cover.
Sorry here is the link to the pump kit torpedoheatparts.com/click-here-for-parts?olsPage=products%2Ffilter-kit-sp-kfa1005-kfa1005-dynaglo-thermoheat-more-70-054-0200-some-lbwhite-572227
Hi; i have a remington 40 that thewoyld shut off after a while, took apart and saw that blades were stuck to rotor so cleaned them up and also blew air thru nozzle and hoses and know i get ignition and fuel but won't light up even with cover on. What can it be?
Sounds like you have an assy problem. Try to take it apart and check the rotor. Watch this video and it will show you how to assy the compressor ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nFebvEPF_Tg.html After you put it together check it for air leaks
Booyaa buddy You asked the man...he tried to help... You didn't respond to his question,.... Not good..... Without his help ya scrap the thing, dummy.....
