I'm pretty sure the front solenoid u took out with the brown connector is the shift solenoid and the one behind it with a black connector is the torque converter clutch solenoid
I have been trying to figure out this. I have a diagram that points this one (the one in video) as the B Shift Solenoid, but when I watch this I got confused. I also think this is shift solenoid b.
The black connector, which is the rear solenoid (farther from the front of the vehicle) is definitely the B solenoid. Just replaced one on my cousin's 2007 accord v6 due to a P0741 trouble code. Fixed it immediately. No more odd shifting behavior.
I have a '06 Acura TL & the TCC is the one with the Black Connector. The Brown Connector is definitely the Shift Solenoid Valve B. Hmmmm, but awesome video. Thank you.
Thanks for such an excellent video that you make , it is one of the best mechanic videos I have ever seeing and very clearly explained.thank you and God bless.
Because they want clicks. Helping people isn't the main motivation. If they said the vehicle I'd never click on the video and waste my time. But here I am.
7 месяцев назад
Muchas Gracias !! Simple, Facil y Directo. Excelente la calidad del sonido y la iluminacion de la imagen.
Please tell us what the make and model of the vehicle that you are working on each time . Thanks for all of the help and tips that you always provide to us .
I have a 2012 Chevy Express passenger van it's a 5.3 1LT AWD it has 250000 mostly Highway miles. The trans works great, the engine Burns zero oil and consumes no coolant. I'm getting the code PO700 and p0741. Shortly after these codes appeared the van began to accelerate strangely. It did this when I first accelerated and right around 45mpr. it would lose power but then gained it again, it would do this several times before going back to its normal performance. I noticed that my RPMs would go down and then quickly up and down again while it was happening. I know this is all a Telltale sign that it's the torque converter. However there is something else happening that is strange. First when this was happening I turned on my tow/ haul button and all symptoms would go away. The fault codes would go away but then always come back as my vans computer system would run its Diagnostics . For the last two weeks I've been driving my van with the tow/haul button off and the van is performing normally, however the fault codes continue to turn off and on. I have had the torque converter checked by a professional transmission shop and they found that the slippage is minor, in fact they said and I have verified that my type of clutch converter is designed to slip a little bit. They recommend a whole new transmission but I know that it could be other things like a solenoid or the computer. The van is currently running perfectly it has no symptoms.
I have a 2004 TL, and went online to Rock-auto looking for a solenoid, apparently there are two types (one with a brown connector like yours and one with a black connector). Don’t know if there is any difference other than the color of the connector housing. Thanks for the thoroughly well done video. Feedback on valve location: from the front of the car, it is just to the right of the transmission fill plug.
hi, I'm a bit miffed and need some help. I've seen a few diagrams that show the torque converter solenoid valve is the one (black connector) that's behind the Brown connector solenoid that you took off. Any insights appreciated.
Hello, I came across your video. I have the same code p0741. TCC SOLENOID on a 2006 Scion tC. I cannot find any material or part to replace. Can you please lead me in the right direction
You are great at transferring knowledge.!👍 Can you suggest what to check next if the same code comes up again? Mine came up once before about 1 year\3,000 miles. It's not driven much and has 220k miles.
Toyota allion 260- recently get an issue once i start the car after 8,9 hours. (When engine is cold) I can start the car normally without any issue and at the N,P gears when i push the accelerator RPM goes up and no any issue can identify. But when i change the gear to D and when i push the accelerator RPM does not go more than 2000 and car can not pickup a hill. But after few min it comes back to normal and car runs perfectly. no jerks no gear engagement issues or vibrations can be identified. To check above problem on a flat road, i stopped the car on a flat road and kept two wood pieces to wheels and redo the above steps to check what happen. same issue was there. Car can accelerate on P & N Gears, when i change the gear to D and when i push the accelerator RPM does not go more than 2000 and car can not move forwatd by climbing up the wood piece But after few min car come back to normal and can pass that wood piece. Mileage 85000KM & 80000KM service done with toyota. Spark Plugs not changed/Air Filter changed/CVT changed at toyota Any suggestions?
YOU are supposed to look it up. Go a illustrated parts breakdown page by selecting YOUR car make nd model. And freaking look for it. If you can't find it that way, go to autozone (or other store) and have them show you while trying to buy it.
Great video! I'm getting the P0741 code, but my car drives and shifts perfectly, however at times my RPM's run high (4-5K) at times, causing me to pull over and disconnect the battery. Once I reconnect the battery, everything is perfect for a day or 2, before I have to do it again. Do you think this sensor has any merit of this behavior?
I think the one I'm working on is doing the same thing... After I clear the codes it drives and shifts perfectly but after maybe 20 minutes of driving it will get worse. Eventually it will shift 1-2 and then shift OUT of second gear. Then I have to limp it home at 25 mph or so. If you put it in park and try to go again sometimes the whole car won't move at all. But if I clear the codes it's immediately 100% fine again (for another 20 minutes). If it really is just the lack of torque converter lockup causing the car to do this on purpose (or otherwise), what a bad design...
@@akhileshkmr421 I was! I changed the little cartridge filter and blew out the oil cooler lines (disconnect from the radiator and transmission and blow out the hard lines with compressed air) because they were clogged with bits of the filter. ...Thankfully the year I was working on (2005) had a filter, (some years do and some don't and I don't remember which) but I got the "ATP Automotive B-266 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit" from amazon, installed it and the car has been good to go ever since! I would also recommend changing that gasket which you probably will have to source from the dealer. But $10.22 is a small price to pay for an attempt to fix it!
@@fisqual how did you know the filter was bad? You cut it open? Or was the fluid dirty? My fluid remains clean but I'm having the exact same problem as you and I've changed all of the solenoids and switches on the transmission. Still getting a p0741 code for TCC. Supposedly I don't have a filter on my car so I'm curious if blowing out the lines would still help. Otherwise I'm thinking it's the TCM(trans control module) built into the PCM/ECU?
P0741 SUZUKI I have suzuki wagonr 660cc 2014 model fx version, Aftershock in my car and gear light shown in meter so I Changed transmission oil CVTF green2, so aftershock problem had fix but gear ights comes back again and again after clear coeds, so please help me to fix this P0741 code problem
Where is the torque converter clutch solenoid in a 2008 Acura TL? I need help finding information. Anyone? I am getting the P0741 code "Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance/Stuck off"
I have a 2006 Toyota matrix. I got a po741 code . so I changed my tcc solenoid.new. plus new oil and filter.and I clear the code after I was done. I ran the car like 20 plus miles freeway as well. Got home and no check engine light. So i put my scanner on it just to see if any thing would show up. And I got the po741 but it on pending this time. And no check engine light on dash. Why is that ??
So my mazda cx9 has been shuddering for little over a year while in automatic mode. Does it when rpms are low and you go to step on it. It is usually in 4th gear when it shudders. We have no issue when driving it manually. No shudder ever in manual. Would you know if this solenoid valve could fix the issue or would I need the whole torque converter?
I know it has been awhile and you might have figured it out. The TCC valve is only active during AUTOMATIC when it needs to sense the build up of pressure. If you are in manual, it does not need that feature.
Great video! I have a 01 CL, same engine, I believe same transmission. How to tell if this is Shift B or Shift C solenoid? When I make a hard u-turn, and hit the gas, the RPM’s increase but the car doesn’t go. I have to wait until the RPM’s go down to 700 before the car starts moving. I have no code. Thanks!
What about P0744 code ? What kind of car is this? From what I can see in my maxima it’s inside the transmission. It would be nice if it was outside like this .
Cap'n Crunch mine is 2001 maxima it is not a CVT. It has almost 210k miles now. I did a 3 drain and fill to flush the transmission and uses Lucus and seafoam transtune (I don’t think those will work with CVTs). If you have a Nissan and it’s a CVT it’s a JATCO CVT transmission one of the worse transmissions in the world. JATCO manual transmissions are solid,. The non CVT autos are ehh ok. But CVTs are crap. What I think is up with the 01 maxima is shift solenoids and TCC. Needs to be replaced , but it could also be the TCM or transmission temperature sensor . I did a few vid logs on it 2nd drain and fill adding Lucus ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aRZva2DyLuA.html Adding seafoam trans tune ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-t0_xgIJYu2s.html Post 1k miles after adding trans tune And 3rd and final drain and fill to complete flush ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eLYJ9sYB4Vw.html I emphasized that fluids I used will not work for CVTs. I used Nissan matic-D compatible fluid. (Valvoline maxlife full synthetic ATF) Yah after the flush and fluids and all it’s night and day difference. And a lot better. But CEL still comes in with p0744 after a few days of use. Also it has some problems with going into overdrive. ( doesn’t seem to work) It use to have problems shifting from 1-2 and starting from a complete stop. But the ATF flush(3drain and fills with few thousand miles between each) and seafoam trans tune and Lucus helped a lot.
No. All the sensor does is its function. If it is malfunctioning, you should get a CODE. The D flashing should be in your instruction manual. It would be helpful if you included the year and model of your car if you wanted more help.
hope you all are fine. i hava a code (17 torque converter clutch fnctn) of transmission of my nissan wingroad i removed but again appear. my automic transmission os not shifting properly please help me how to solve this problem
I think the only Honda with a worse automatic transmission than an Acura TL or V6 accord is a D17 civic. Suckers are made of glass... Did you remove the solenoid and see it move? Sometimes they are electrically fine but they get stuck and won't actually do the job.
My solenoid on my 06 acura tl reads 17 ohms and it does click when I test with 12 volt battery the valve,but when it clicks I don't really notice the valve moving so not sure if it should be replaced?
Just because the resistance is readable, he said the range should be 25 to 28 ohms. Anything outside of that may not have enough inertia to overcome the pressure of the fluid building in the transmission. Think of the car battery, it can just a hair under 12 volts, but still NOT enough to start your car.
Hey, I am wondering if you can help me out with this while I was checking my sensors a little hose got unplugged it comes from the transmission but I dont know where it goes connect it any idea is a rubber hose, too bad that can post a picture