Here is an explanation of how to torque tune. This will benefit any bow hunter or target archer and will work on all different kinds of arrow rests. Give it a try, this will definitely improve the forgiveness of your set up!
Very well explained Paige, wish I would have had this information a few years ago, when I was still competing, would have probably kicked your butt out there! 🤣🤣🤣🎯👍
Well I was this many days old when I heard of this wizardry lol its been over 25 years since I shot a bow and I am itching to get back in and I am sure there is ALOT of cool shit I missed out on in the last 2.5 decades. Amzing vid and Im binge watching your content now
This is very interesting and I have never seen this type of tuning before, I normal paper tune and just leave it at that. But since watching a couple of your videos I have also done paper tuning then moving the rest to tighten groups. Now I have seen this torque tuning technique and will try it when I get my new rest. My question is… if I torque tune at say 20metres will that work at all distances from 10m to 60m with one setting? I shoot field so lots of different distances in one shoot. Cheers Richard
Debi Tuttle thank you! It’s not the typical way of tuning to improve arrow flight or anything like that. But it is a very effective way to tighten your groups up if you ever have any inconsistencies. I still paper tune as I said in the video and I sometimes bare shaft tune as well, but this is something extra I always do on a new set up :)
Hi, Paige! Thanks for teaching us about torque tuning. I understand that you move the arrow rest forward and backward to torque tune, but I was curious which direction you moved it in this video and how you knew which way to go?
Eli Hopper My rest was already way close to the bow so I knew I would need to move it back. But for everyone that spot will be different so you just have to move it and check. It’s basically just test it till you find the spot that works. :)
So in my video I moved my rest backwards. I always start with it close to the bow so I know I’ll have to go backwards. The reason I didn’t say is because it is going to be different for everyone. I said multiple times that it is a guess and check system because depending on where you are starting your rest and your sight it will be different. Some people will have to move it forward and some people will have to move it back it all depends on them and their initial set up. Again, that’s why I told people to go try it themselves and do a guess and check to find the right spot for them personally. It should take no longer than 15 minutes maximum I would say
Looks like the point of this exercise is to place the point of contact between the rest and arrow on the torque axis (the axis around which you torque your bow). If the rest is behind this axis, then torquing the bow one way pushes the rest the other way. To visualize this, just place any object in front of you and twist it left and right. You can see that twisting to the right sends the back of the object (the one closest to you) to the left, and so on. Consequently, a rest that is in front of this axis will move in the same direction as the torque. So if the arrow hits on the same side as the applied torque (right torque sends arrow to the right), then you need to move the rest backwards. The opposite is true. This is why Paige moved the rest back: the arrow torqued to the right was hitting right, which means the rest is in front of the torque axis.
@@CristiNeagu I'm new to this, so I could not understand why torque tuning had an effect until I read your comment. Thanks! It seems like I could also twist my hand left and right at full draw to estimate where that torque axis is, before I even shot an arrow. Is that feasible?
it's still not going to exactly hit the middle because you're still torqueing the bow, but I agree that torque tuning will help get the maximum forgiveness that you can get.
John Zarn haha thank you!! I just recently started it... I figured it would be nice to have somewhere to put some videos because I wanted to start doing more of that :)
John Feyereisn your basically placing the rest over a pivot point that when you torque it won’t effect impact. What you are doing is finding the sweet spot between the rest and sight where when you torque your bow as long as the sight is on target the arrow will still hit.
Thanks Paige. It’s quite helpful to know to know which tool to use and what results to watch. Your Torque Tuning is a great tool in the process of precision.
Hey ik I’m not her, but I’d say that she was very satisfied with it, because she almost shot 10s on both of the left and right torque shots and when shooting your bow you will never torque it as hard as she just did on purpose
In this video I moved it back. But I didn’t say purposely initially because I really wanted people to try both for themselves to see what’s best! It doesn’t have to do with the arrow as much as it has to do with the rotational deflection of the bow. Every bow will have a different amount of natural torque from static to full draw, then you add whatever person is shooting the bow and that’s another factor, arrow length actually is too but that’s way too complicated for most people, and then the tightness or placement of your cable guard/ flex guard changes it drastically as well. So you are basically using this to find the point that all of that is canceled out and you can torque it all over and not miss. Totally an awesome way to tune, everyone should do it on every bow. This is the one type of tuning no one can argue with because there’s nothing it hurts to include this step on every set up, and it is undeniable :)
Yes. So I anchor, then torque. Then re center your housing in your peep if you can. Then shoot. It’s hard to shoot great shots when your torquing I’ll sometimes have them go a little low because I’m not actually pushing to execute. Don’t worry about the height though just the left and right.
What is recommended when torque tuning? moving the arrow rest forwards or backwards? Does moving the rest forward make the spread further apart or does moving the arrow rest backwards make the arrow spread further apart?
It’s different on every bow. Depending on your bows natural rotation deflection plus the natural torque every person puts on the bow, where you start your rest and sight length, arrow length, flex guard position, etc all of that is a factor. So I can’t tell you which way to move it, you just have to try it both ways and see which one makes it better for you personally :)
I dont understand. Literally. If i made intentional torqued gestures i would just realign my peep. How does left an right correlate with forward an back movement of the rest?
Definitely going to try this out, hoping to get a few more points! Points are tougher to come by in field after 500... Thanks for the pointers Paige, keep em' coming
Hi Paige, As a new shooter I need to be able to set everything myself! How do I know I am buying the right arrow for my bowtech SS34 with 60 LBS drawweight and 27.5" draw length? Now I have an easton carbon Powerflight 500 7.3gpi, but I already had this one.
What you did is great! I am a traditional bow shooter. If I make the rest of my traditional bow adjustable, Could I get the same result as yours? Thank you.
Paige, outstanding explanation. Does paper tuning afterwards affect the torque tuning????? My bow when I was at Bowtech paper tuned my bow. Now if I torque tune, does that affect my paper tuning???? Sorry I missed you when you were at Bowtech!!!!! I definitely can see you creating a Paige Pearce school!!!! God bless and be safe in your travels? Thankyou
if the torqued arrow lands in the direction the stabilizer on the torque points to then adjust the rest backwards. if opposite, frontwards. That's why Paige had to move the rest backwards if you look closely.
PAIGE , i know this seems wierdddddd but i just discovered you and your channel . your advice is 100% on da money !!!!!i recently purchased a BOWTECH SPECIALIST II , all these years i been shooting 28 to 30 inch ATA's and absolutely just in love with my new 30ATA target bow . i had the opportunity to purchase a slightly used reckoning bow for $800 but didnt do it . one day i may consider it ,but for now , my specialist bow is doing just fine , it is a tack driver even to 50 yards LOL ! FOR MY SIGHT ,I WENT WITH A VERY NICE CBE VERTEC WITH TONS OF EXTRA GEAR ! .btw , i just went to your website ,i see all is available !!!!
Do you recommend a rest with a berger hole mount style over the IMS system that Bowtech offers on their hunting bows so you can include these adjustments?
@@walterlee762 you’re actually spot on you you can’t torque tune with the IMS rest or any center mass rest for that matter. So for me personally, I will stick with a berger hole mount. But for people who are using the IMS, depending on their sight there is a possibility they can torque tune using their sight instead!
I will buy the Reckoning but, he's not available yet in Belgium -> Antwerp. Always the same here. In the USA it's better for all. We get an 'older' version' of the bow, i mean he's out in 2019 and available end of 2020 in these f... country. And with the customs here (sharks), i'll pay 446,00 $ more than in the States. Scandalous....
Awesome video and great explanation. I have the Bowtech Reckoning Gen2 36 with 32.5" draw length. My arrows torque in the opposite direction. But my rest is already as much towards the target as it can go and the sight as close to the riser as it gets. Is there anything I can do?
It very well may be that it’s too close together. Try running it back quite a bit and see if that changes it. Most people have to run the sight and rest further apart than what they normally have it. So try it drastically the other way because usually both things close together isn’t the answer. Once you have tested all of that, the other thing you can easily change is the tightness of your flex guard on that bow. That changes the rotational deflection of the bow which changes the torque tune! My best guess is run your rest back and sight out and I bet that’s what you need. It’ll be bad if you’re too close together and bad if you’re too far apart so it’s just finding that middle sweet spot. If you test all that then try changing the flex guard (no way to know if it needs to be tighter or looser) but whenever you adjust it then you have to go back to testing your rest forward and back again! Hope that helps!
@@PaigePearceinsight thanks for the answer paige. I misunderstood the tuning direction of where to move your sight when a left torque cause a right deflection. Moving my axcel xp 6" out to like 3" solved it. That was the point where it flipped. Further out a left torque cause a left deflection and further in a right deflection. Groups are tighter now and the bow is better tuned. My pro shop sold me underspined arrows though, (400 on a 32.5" 60lbs reckoning gen 2). So I'm getting into building my own arrows now too :D. Further down the rabbit hole..
Ive tried this @20 meters and completely failed to achieve what you did. Ill wait for spring to have an opportunity to make this second time on longer distance like 30 or 40 meters. But trying to conciously torque the bow helped me realise that I was always torqueing having my hand tensed up. So I guess it is a good test for that too and thank you for that suprise conclusion.
I have a question that nobody seems to have an answer for, and that is, Is it possible to shoot arrows with a helical +/- 2Deg. using a blade rest? I don't want to use a drop away rest on my competition bow and I don't want to use strait fletching either. So help from a Pro would be much appreciated. Thanx Paige.
I notice that your grip placement when shooting your bow is place high on the bows shelf, whereas on your video using the spit fire shot release trainer, your grip is not as high, its place on the handle. is there a reason for difference in grip placement?
I want to know how to find the node of my arrow and where the arrow should hit the rest in relation to the node. My setup right now is extremely unforgiving.
Doesn’t matter. When it’s correct it should be good no matter how your torquing. The key is torque more than you will ever do by accident. Or torque more than steel angles will ever cause it wind. Just don’t torque enough to derail the bow lol. But if you go more than you will ever do naturally then you know your good to go in all shooting scenarios :)
marcos huerta haha yeah I just realized right at the beginning I said paper tuning instead of torque tuning 🤦🏼♀️ we had just been talking about that. I can do a video on how to paper tune, but every bow I have my arrow will be in a different spot based off how I set it up there is no similar spot I run my rest.
@@PaigePearceinsight yeeaahhhh, I noticed that the first time I watched it I like this isn't paper tuning. Lol it's fine you pretty much answered my question last night. I shot a bullet hole now I'm going to French tune and leave it at that. Just work on my consistency with my anchor and release.
thanks for a good tip. only thing I seen different it looks like you torque it more on the first round which was way off and looking at your second group doesn't look like you torque as much as you did on the first round
ArcheryTalk of course! It’s not something anyone should try, they will just either need it that way or they won’t. It’s how you hold the bow. Based off your hand grip you will need back weight on one one side of the bow to keep your bubble in the middle, and for me that just happens to be the right. If I had my weight on the left side my bow would wanna can’t wayyy to the left. So it’s just where I needed my weights to keep my bubble center :)
OMG! How many OCD people like myself watched this video and cringed, thinking about how they PERFECTLY leveled their rest during setup, and torqued down that set screw!?! LOL!!! That said, has anyone noticed any rules of thumb while torque tuning? Do particular bows like the rest closer, or farther away?
Hi Paige, great video. I am defiantly going to try this with my hunting set up. I have a not related question but thought id mention it because i think you would know. I built some high FOC hunting arrows and wanted to lose even more weight of the back end so went with a fita vane but was worried about arrow flight with a big fixed blade on it. So far, out to 50 yds it's flying great! Do you see any concerns with an arrow like that using those small vanes? I haven't seen anyone else really do this. I will also say this bow/arrow has been bare shaft tuned to death, really good arrow flight. I'm sure this will change after torque tuning but worth it i think. Thanks again!!
I’ll save you guys a lot of time….. for best forgiveness you want your arrow to rest on your rest blade/arm right above the fulcrum point of your grip. This is the deepest part/curve in your bows grip. So just adjust move your rest so that your blade and arrow rests just above/inline of the deepest part of your grip and that will be the most forgiving best position. This is basic physics and geometry.
sorry man but that would ONLY be true if your sight is directly above that point. As your sight is out in front from the deepest part of the grip, the goal is to find the spot where the rest is the same amount backwards from the point of pivot. But note, the pivoting point must not be the deepst part of the grip as it is important where the sight exactly is mounted. Therefore, it is a trial and error. You could measure from the middle of the sighting mount and then go backwards the same amount for the rest. I guess that's a good starting point.
