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I had the pleasure of meeting you, Claudia and the lovely Paddy last week and it is great to see the video of positive reinforcement in action. A good demonstration of how effective it is to break a process down into small steps so that the horse is never over faced.
Any tips on handling a horse that has similar problems but is also aggressive with food. I have attempted some clicker training with her, but she is so smart that she learnt actions (to get food) within 2-3 tries then does the behaviour without being asked. She ended up attacking me and biting me badly because I wasn't training her at the time and didn't give her the treat! She's so smart but very aggressive. I thought I'd give it a go, but before this I noticed she was food aggressive (so probably silly on my part), she threatens to bite and kick if you go near her when she's eating from her bucket, she also threatens if being lead and wants to eat grass. Anytime she has food on her mind, she is aggressive (And we know most horses think about food all the time). I should add, that she is a rescue thoroughbred and I do not know her history after she retired from racing three years ago - so who knows what happened to her or why she is so fearful.
Hi Kate, I would really advice you to consult with an equine behaviourist or experienced +R/clicker trainer because you need a writing detailed training plan + the professional advising you need to see footage of your horse (or your horse IRL) + take history to give you appropriate advice. I can't help you without knowing and seeing a lot more however I can say that the first step with this type of behaviour is to get the horse professionally checked for health issues. (Being a ex race horse she is especially at risk of having developed ulcers). Regarding feeding her in a bucket, don't. Use scatter feeding instead, it will reduce aggression straight away as the animal cannot resource guard and it also reduce the stress created by having to eat without being able to move. (horses do best when they can eat and move). She should also be on adlib hay. I wouldn't advice trying any training with her without professional guidence, but if you do, make sure you do so behind protected contact (use fence/stable door between you and ger) to reduce her stress and keep you safe. I offer an online coaching service that may be appropriate for the both of you, but if you want me to help make sure you first consult your vet. www.fairhorsemanship.com/online-coaching/
Do you have any tips for a horse that can't be touched & you can't come close. If you come to close, she lays her ears down, will turn her butt and kick. If you touch her, she peeps (like horses that meet do: with one front leg that kicks). I used the following method: going to her to a point were she is still comfortable, but which is already close. When she shows good signs, I move back. Then I started doing that with my stick to create a distance between us to keep me safe. sometimes, I can touch her with the stick, but she peeps and goes away. I don't feel safe using a lot of food because when I give her a long carrot, she comes kinda agressive to me with her ears flat... any tips?
+Laiv Misaki This is not correct, aggression is a very real behaviour. But horses are not aggressive for the reasons that most people think; many people believe aggressive horses are "naughty", "misbehaving", "disrespectful" or "dominant". The truth is that most aggression come from a place of fear and pain.
Fair Horsemanship I know what you mean. And i don't doubt it because it's true! But i wouldn't use the term 'agressive', because the horse isn't really AGRESSIVE, if you get it x) But it's kinda of like a horses way tell you that it hurts, or 'i'm scared' 'leave me alone'. I don't think agressive is the right word to it.
