Thanks a bunch, I love doing repairs to my vehicle with vids such as this.. did this repair exactly how your video instructed. No leaks. Saved a good bit of coin.
I haven't noticed a power steering pump being driven by the engine like that, it's not too bad when you repair it with part of a seal kit. Thanks for sharing mate
You Legend! This was exactly what I needed to locate and remove my own one However, I’m trumped, how you got that out I just do not know, There’s a pipe and a hose below that refuse to move, What did you do to create space? Corrected: I got there, turns out that plastic housing for the power cables, was only clipped to the frame, I was pushing on a clip that was to be pulled, once I got that right, it slid right off, and moved with plenty of flexibility Thankyou Dave, you have saved my day with this video 🤟🏻
Yeah simon. You can get a few genuine repair kits for a few things for these trucks. Keeps them on the road,. Wouldn't like to buy a new one, if available
Hi Dave, just wandering when you removed the pump from the engine, do you need to set any timing of the motor for when you replace the pump to motor...or just slots back into the cog mechanism on the motor...
I can hear a low-pitch humming whenever I turn my wheel left to right and right to left? Could repacking with new seals help with that, besides obviously fixing the leak?
I hope that you are going to see the funny side of this. A long time ago I learned a hard lesson. Customer complaint; hydraulic fluid leaking over the brake pedal. Ah! says I, that should be easy I just need to put new seals in the master cylinder. Wrong! When a car gets to a certain age you need to change ALL THE SEALS!. I forgot mention that this was a 1968 E type Jag with a 3.8 straight six engine. For those of you who don't know, they have inboard brakes. The reason for this is that when you hit a bump in the road there is less inertia in the wheel and less energy that the suspension has to dissipate. . Basically, your tyre will back in contact with the ground a lot quicker. The other problem is that they have a dual hydraulic circuit which is configured like an X. So if your front right brake pipe failed you would still have braking on left front/right rear. This means they are a bastard to bleed, I wasted lots of hydraulic fluid on this one. Next problem; as I mentioned they have inboard brakes. All the calipers have twin pistons and to remove the one's closest to the diff you have to drop the back axle. The only good news was that I got to drive an E type Jag for a month, purely for testing purposes, your honour :) BTW Dave I spit on your Suzuki, it sounds like a motorbike. An E type sounds like a proper car. LOL!
Wee bit of a different drive arrangement...interesting. I was meaning to ask you Dave, when you did the Vid of your home town...The white buildings at the marina where the private sail boats dock. Is that a hotel or condo complex? Do you know the one I mean? (Looks like a very new build) It was well in the background in one of your shots...
Yeah not the usual belt drive. Lasts forever(apart from the rear seal). The white buildings are private apartments with a pub restaraunt called the wind rose. Www.thewindrose.co.uk
Hi there. It has been suggested that i ask you, if you have some info i am searching for with no luck(by a chap known as intrade), i am after a connection diagram for a alfa 2003 156 cloverleaf, selespeed gearbox, either a full wiring diagram, or plug pin numbers for solenoids or wire colors. Car is worthless here now (under $300), even though in almost mint conditon, so paying someone to diagnose is not an option
Not sure how i can help you. I have some info on this but it is specific to the operation which is copyrighted. I can only suggest you see what is on google or here is an overview video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jgopyRYTOH0.html