I just did this for my son's 93 3.0. I got complete valve job, pressure test and resurfaced for both head cast me $300.00 plus 80.00 for the valve job kit. 410.00 plus another 360.00 for other parts for timing and head gasket and water pump. Total 950.00 with oil and filter & antifreeze, thermostat, all new hoses for engine.
Crazy how something so simple morphs into a detailed and involved job. I am glad you are being so thorough in your repairs. I can only imagine what a shop would charge you to do this.
In a shop, the ASE Standard labor time is huge especially if you're doing timing at the same time. It can be done much faster and the cleaning is done with high pressurized instead of elbow power. Labor is like 21 hours if replacing the front oil seal. Unless Im incorrect, I bought two kits to replace the head gasket and timing. It cost me 400.00 to include new bolts, timing pulleys, cam gears, crank gear, all gaskets, water pump, timing kit head gasket kit, knock sensor harness.
The headaches I could’ve saved if I’d seen this prior to my attempt at it. Love the attention to small details. If you’re up for a new project in the future, a breakdown of a 3.0 to 3.4 swap would be a blessing!
I've had many enquiries about the 3VZ-E parts list shown in this video. I spent many hours (days, really) researching and constructing a thorough list for this job. This list has the highest quality parts at the best prices (with links of where to buy!). This list is available for purchase here: practicalenthusiast.gumroad.com/l/hUcqV Making this purchase will not only save you time and money tracking down parts to do this job, but it also greatly helps the Practical Enthusiast channel continue to create videos like you see here. Thank you for watching and for your continued support of the channel!
Just think it's 2022 and we still building engines the exact same way and it's just incredible we have stuck with that same design for that long and 98% of all engines have atleast 1 or 2 things that are bad about that certain engine.
I have a 1990 Toyota 4runner 4x4 3.0, its needs the same love you put in yours. Thanks for all the information and detail you put in it. I will have to save up a lot of cash to get my truck done right. Thanks in advanced.
@@chrisn262 I was just recently told that the head gasket recall is no longer valid. I had 2 sets of head gaskets replaced 20 and 25 years ago on my 1992. The last head gasket job they used the new upgraded gaskets and I haven’t had any issues. That was 20 years ago at about 250,000 miles. It now has 500,000 miles on it and running strong.
There’s a local selling his ‘95 with a a bad head gasket. I called around and the only shop I found so far refused to do just the head gasket. Says the entire engine should be replaced.
I just spent $360 at yota shop to tear in far enough to remove passenger head and replace head gasket on that side, valve spring, valve, guide, and take my shim measurements for both sides and do that too while I'm in there. And to top it off, that's on top of pulling the engine last year and doing a full and complete tear down to the block nearly exactly one year ago, spent about $1,100 even doing the work myself at a legitimate auto shop. I was on a budget then so I didn't address my valves and now I'm paying for it. But, I did do one good thing. I bought ARP studs off DOA racing so I don't have to buy new head bolts to go in and reseal this head this go round. Expensive, but worth it. Oh yeah, I bought a "full, and complete" gasket kit from yota shop last year and it didn't come with the 3 oil cooler seals, just the one for bolt gor it. Dumb. But hey man, good job.
With the older engines buying the newer rebuild's off ebay.. I have a 1990 does that mean it would or would not fit the eBay ones. I'm just starting my gasket replacement and looking at videos on what to prepare for! Thank you!
Is there anyway you can add the list of parts you purchased for this job I basically need to do the same thing and would like to take the same route you did .
Hiiiii very interesting video awesome in my opinion where did you live boy I need some mechanic knowledge pls 🥴where I can get those part I just bought a Toyota 4 runner 3 gen I’m assuming the head gasket is blow out 😢
WOW...Was expecting pricing but even I was shocked. But then the version explanation made me feel better for YOU.. well your Dad. I was running the total and thought yeah... $1,500 easy. Hopefully, your Dad was sitting down when that total was released. YOU didn't tell him before the video...right? LOL Hey have you every used POR15? Thought of some of the rust on this 4Runner and just had my first "experience" with it. Thanks again for such high quality content.
Lol. I warned him before we started on this with a prelim parts list. After dumping $600 into the rear suspension, you might as well go all in! I have used POR15 (quite liberally on my E30) and I'm on the fence about it. It's a good overcoat that lasts a while, but it doesn't "stop" rust. Not by any means. Better than black spray paint but it doesn't last forever. I would recommend some true rust converter such as the water-based stuff from Corroseal. That turns the metal black when its done its job, then you paint over it. I've had good luck with it.
Usually a valve grind kit has everything to do a head gasket repair, seals only. Not sure why they don’t call that but I’m almost positive thats what it is.
when you talk about the difference between the earlier and later model engines. what year would you say was when they switched the design of the heads?
To remove the dowel pins you use a can of map gas (yellow propane gas type can). Heat up the dowel pin and then use a pair of locking needle nose pliers to wiggle on the pin while heating it. It will come right out. To reinstall clean the. Up and put in freezer for 2 hours. This will shrink the OD of the dowel pin which makes it easier to install. Especially if you heat up the home with map gas first. Just dont overheat the aluminum head.
I just picked up a 1993 4runner 5 speed, 4x4 and she’s very clean and taken care of but needs a new head gasket. Runs and drives but needs TLC under the hood. Is this a good first project to try and work on to fix and work on the head gasket the same way you are? Wanting to get it done soon after all parts are ordered
I wouldn't recommend this repair if you haven't had a lot of mechanical repair experience. However, if you're familiar with timing belt replacements then this job isn't too much further of a step to take.
I would replace the rest of the fuel injector insulators, if one has cracked, the others are right behind it and since you are there... Just my opinion.
Jim's Automotive Machine in Colorado. It is a father-son operation that has a RU-vid channel. I plan on having them do some work in the future when the bank account agrees!😂 Edit: I didn't realize this video was 3 years old, and your comment was a year ago.
Engines with two cylinder heads will be a similar cost, where engines with one cylinder head might be 1/3 less. Many won't consider refreshing the fuel injectors or timing belt/chains, so that will save some money initially. But, it won't save money in the long run.
Does anyone know if these toyota head gaskets are mls with graphite or are they graphite/composite? Cant find an answer on this. About yo do my 3vze headgasket replacement.
@@PracticalEnthusiast thank you! I'm doing the same job on my dad's truck. Got the cylinder heads back from machine shop and their good. Im going to just sand the engine block like you did and hope these toyota gaskets hold. Hope your dads truck is still running strong!
MLS head gasket kit on Ebay with head bolt $99.00 comes with head bolts etc. Replaced mine with this MLS style used the copper Permatex Copper spray on the MLS gaskets after the OEM second set of head gaskets #6 gave up again the previous owner had the heads done at 110k under recall by Toyota, we bought it with 179k drove it to 207k then it popped #6 head gasket ring apparently they block does not expand, and contract like the aluminum head does, eventually the original OEM design gasket gets fatigued, and then the cylinder usually sucks part of metal the head gasket material into the cylinder if you run it long enough that way after the head gasket blows, which is never a good idea you blow a head gasket you shut it down, and get fixing right away. We went 90k miles on the second set new improved China MLS, we sold the truck ran 298k great with the China MLS style gaskets we used. Toyota improved part might be better, but the MLS with the copper spray is the way to go, you can always get just the gaskets for $29.00, and buy OEM head bolts etc...
@@drewdowns7128 that was what the dealer told us, but that was a while ago. I think it applied to 92 and 93 models. The window of opportunity closed a decade ago.
With all the time you put into the research on parts for these builds, I bet you could generate some income on it with at least affiliate links or a bespoke kitting from a supplier for the job. Someone finds you video to solve a similar problem and you serve them up a read made kit to do the job.
That's a good idea. I've tried doing the affiliate links in the past but I'm at the mercy of what Amazon has available. I need to do more research on other affiliate partners.
