I just watched your videos and was so enlightened. So much invaluable information and the fact that I could follow all you did and also relate to what my motor has wow! I thank you
👍🔧Thanks for making and posting this video. I got the throttle body off ok, but I ruined the screws attempting to remove the IAC. I could be wrong but I think they are JIS not Philips. My bad. Update: Just in case anybody ends up in the same situation- I attempted to use an extractor to get the screw out. The extractor broke, then a drill bit. I ended up using my Dremel to cut a slot in the screw. Using a flat head screw driver, the screw turned easily as if it wasn't even tight.
Found P port clogged in the TB which was causing the P0401 code to come on. After a thorough cleaning, now I have sufficient vacuum and the EGR system is working now.
The blow-by from the PCV valve cannot carbon up the throttle plate. The blow-by from the PCV valve is downstream of the throttle plate. The carbon on the throttle plate must be coming from the other crankcase vent on the right hand side of the valve cover near the air box. That crankcase vent is upstream of the throttle plate and will carbon up the throttle plate. The catch can needs to go in the hose between the valve cover and the snorkel hose near the air box. The PCV hose needs a catch can too, but only to prevent carbon fouling of the intake valves. To simplify and clarify, one catch can in the hose between the valve cover and the snorkel, and another catch can between the PCV valve and the intake plenum. Done!
I can't for the life of me remove those screws holding the IACV to the throttle body. I almost stripped one. You didn't seem to have trouble with yours. Any tips? EDIT: Got them with in impact screwdriver. Tip for everyone else: They are not phillips screws. They are JIS screws. PHILLIPS WILL STRIP THEM. Another tip: If you remove the small plate with 2 screws from the side of the IACV, you can open and close the valve from there. Don't lose the plastic liner, it likes to fall out. Make sure when you put the plate back on that you get the end of the spring into the notch.
I have a catch can on my 5sfe. It fills up with a watery emulsion of nasty tan goo every few thousand miles. Doesn't seem to freeze in winter like I thought it might. It's nice to know that crap isn't going back into the engine.
Great tutorial, feel sorry I arrived too late :( cleaned the TB still attached, with liqui moly TB cleaner yet I am afraid I overdid it & sprayed into the intake manifold. Might be flooded, car won't start & searching for a way out on the net many seem to have the same issue. What is the best way out of this mess. Any1? Tx beforehand.
Thank you for the video I got a question I just cleaned out my throttle body and iac but now when I start the car it idles at 2200-2400 rpm ive seen a couple of people say that u need to re train the idle or something like that
Should drop to normal idle after warm up. If not the iac is stuck and needs to be recleaned. Also check for any vacuum leaks from disconnected or broken hoses
When I turn the air conditioning on, the car shakes. Also, I have a P0505 code. Could the reason be due to carbon buildup and it's clogged up in the throttle body and IAC valve? If I clean it up like it's demonstrated in this video, would it resolve the problem?
Yes. Cleaning up the IAC and throttle body should help. The a/c compressor, when engaged, takes horse power away from the engine. The car's computer will compensate by increasing the air volume via the throttle body or IAC. If either is carbonized, this will restrict air flow.
So using a brass brush will prevent scratching the surfaces of those components since it's a softer metal? Can you still scratch it up from putting too much pressure?
A twisted knotted steel wire wheel is aggressive and scratches surface severely and is often used by welders removing slag and weld spatter. A straight steel wire wheel is less aggressive depending of diameter and length of wires. A true brass wire wheel is even less aggressive as soft brass does not easily scratch steel but can wear out quickly. A nylon wire wheel can be used with abrasive mixed in, depending on the abrasive used, will determine how it scratches. Take any mirror polished surface and you can easily test how easily it scratches the surface.
What's best way to make sure the manifold port to the EGR valve is not partially plugged and clean it? With valve body of is it possible to get to it? I still need to finish your great video so maybe you'll mention it. Thanks for your video and any help would be appreciated My 2001 Camry w/4 cyl only has 104k miles but is getting only about 19 mpg and code reader say bad EGR. So also hear its best to get those bottom bolts on the EGR from under the motor with a long 1nch extension and socket. See its a bear to replace it and my hands are way bigger than most peoples but hat to spend the cash when I do most my repairs myself.
I currently have over 300k miles on my 1999 Camry never once having any EGR related codes. I suggest removing the EGR from the intake manifold and clean out the ports with a wire brush. Also using Marvel Mystery oil added to your gas may help clear things up.
Carbon build up on the intake side or airfilter side of the throttle plate? Because when i looked on my car with the same 5sfe engine from filter side surprisingly it was shiny like new after about 8 years that i driving it. I don't know other side of it.
EGR and PCV blowby gases are channel into the intake manifold behind the throttle body. When you lift off the gas pedal, the throttle plate closes and the gas temporarily backs up against the closed throttle plate which accumulates carbon. This is a one of the biggest problems with turbo engines. What you can do is to install a "catch can" that filters the carbon in the gases before it enters in intake manifold. Also on the 5SFE engine, there's a hose leading from the valve cover into the air filter hose attached to the throttle body. This could be a source of carbon build in front of the throttle plate if there's excess blowby gases caused by worn piston rings. Here's a video showing you how install a catch can in a 5SFE engine via the PCV hose: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXure6_MyZM.html
I'd charge 1 hour of labor. But repair shops may exaggerate their repair quote based on the feedback I've been getting from people lately. I guess people are keeping their cars longer, there appears to be a shortage of mechanics and shops are overwhelmed with repair jobs.
You'd probably have to install a 2nd catch can for the hose leading from the right side of the valve cover to the intake tube. That should dramatically reduce oily gases entering your intake. Only thing you can't control are EGR gases going to your intake manifold.
@Hardly Moving Productions Thanks. I ordered 2 and will be installing them later today. I had to replace that throttle body because it had so much gunk built-up.
Hello dear 😁 i have same tht car but the both of EGR not installed and also the cheak engine light not coming Is there any problem comimg from no EGR in car . Thnak you
Reverse direction of the coolant flow? Don't think it matters. The coolant temperature flowing to the throttle body controls the idle air control valve.
@@hardlymovingpro I see, I asked coz I have a Toyota station wagon type with a 3sfe engine and my cold idle used to be 1200 rpm and warm idle was 750 rpm. I used to have a rough idle so I took it for IAC valve cleaning. The idle is now very very smooth but cold idle is 750 rpm and warm idle is 1200 rpm, the exact opposite of what it used to idle at cold or warm engine. I was thinking something must have been swapped and looking at how the IAC valve for this engine is designed, the only possible thing to swap are the coolant hoses, the IAC valve itself is designed like a puzzle piece, can only sit one way so I doubt if it was flipped or wrongly installed.
I have an issue with a vacuum leak at the throttle body shaft, does anyone know what kind of seal is on there, or do I have to replace the whole throttle body?
Could this be the reason why my 2005 Toyota celica is shaking only when I have my foot on the break at a red light while in drive. when I’m in park it’s fine.
One of possibly many, but a cheap place to start. Your a/c also places a load on your engine which causes vibration. Engine out-of-tune needing new spark plugs, ignition wires, oxygen sensor and a clogged catalytic converter.
Hardly Moving Productions okay is this an annoying job for a mechanic? Because I think my mechanic knows what it is but to lazy to address the issue so might just start doing it myself
@@mando2.049 Probably unsure what the problem is and doesn't want to guess. Afraid whatever he does doesn't fix the problem and feels bad charging you.
I am facing an issue since months, egr is functioning properly, tested. Modulator was jammed and replaced with new. VSV was bad and replaced with new. Still got CEL p0401, egr passage had gunk, cleaned somehow, the hole attached to intake from egr had gunk too, cleaned well but unfortunately now i have 2 codes at a time. P0401 and P0402. Do you think is it related to carbon been messing up with my system, what should i clean next to open the flow ? Any help would be appreciated guys ? Please 🙏 And now; its P0420 too 😞
There are so many related components that make up the EGR system that I get replacement parts from cars in the salvage yard. Getting them from the dealership or after market suppliers can get expensive. Make sure your vacuum tubes are good and running with Marvel Mystery oil mixed with your gas might make the problem go away.
Can I do the Sea Foam spray precces to a Toyota camry 1990? Just by removing the big hose that connects to the throttle body and spraying it through there, while the car is at 2000 RPM?
@@hardlymovingpro ok. If I spray sea foam spray through the throttle I won't damage any sensors that are after the throttle body. The reason I ask is because I see another sensor.
Squirt some carb cleaner through it. If there's blockage, you can use a thin nylon brush to work out any carbon buildup. Never seen one that was blocked.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the quick reply. i guess what i too specific. those two brass pipes from the throttle body connecting to the modulator. are those tubes suppose to be blocked? i dont think they should and i tried to run wires through those brass tubes and it seems like theyre both blocked
@@hardlymovingpro it didnt work. im gonna say what happened here just incase someone else has the problem and they try this menthod. carb cleaner didnt work so i ended up taking the whole thing apart. apparantly there is a tiny needle like hole that connects to those tubes from the thottle body. i had to get a very tiny wire to unclogged it. it took 5-6 time poking thought the hole and i blasted the hell out of it with carb cleaner. hoping this fixes my p0401 issue
@@hardlymovingpro thank you I just picked up my 3rd (4th generation) Camry with the 5SFE and want to do a full maintenance tune up on it! Ima keep this one forever love these Toyota Camrys with the in-line four motor in them! BEST GENERATION CAMRY EVER!!
New plugs, ignition wires, valve cover gasket and run a 1/2 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil at the next oil change. This oil will dissolve sludge buildup in the valve train. Also pull the plugs out and pour around a oz of Berryman's B12 Chem Tool into each cylinder and let sit for 24 hours. Afterwards blow compressed air in the chambers to prevent hydrolock before reinstalling the plugs. The B12 will seep into the piston rings and could help loosen them away from the pistons if they're stuck. Do a drain and fill of the transmission fluid and use synthetic ATF (Valvoline or Castrol). Replace the front motor mount. They do wear out. Check that your CV boots aren't torn. Check stabilizer bar links and bushings for wear. Look for micro cracks in your radiator. They open up when the engine heats up and will leak. Remove the upper timing belt cover and check for slack in the timing belt. If so, loosen the belt tension to allow the tensioner to remove slack.
@@hardlymovingpro my hoses were stuck and things were hard to reach. and i broke one of the electrical plastic adapter thingie but its usable i think. It was really stuck i used too much force. Im finished now with everything i hope it works when i can try starting it. Good video tbh i just wish there was more detail with removing everything.
