TOYOTA CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER Diagnose Remove & Replace tutorial! DIY 4x4 22R 22RE 

Yes! Good tip. Since the rear flexible brake line has one male and one female end you can attach the male flexible brake line to the slave cylinder, and then run the female up to the firewall where the upper hard line's flare nut fitting (and mount) is, eliminating the little hard line that is mounted on the engine. Although, that looks like it might be a really fun time getting that fitting put together up behind the engine on the firewall. The rear brake lines can also be installed in-line with a normal front brake line to make extra long brake lines for long travel suspension. I did a video on that years ago... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2MeqSGE6P-0.html

SIR...

That's a great idea!

The old trucks had a good amount of working room. Not so much on the newer cars/trucks that's for sure...

You can do that, but you'll need to leave the hard line and fitting a little loose so they'll rotate into optimal position when you hold the SC up and bolt it into position, then you can tighten the fitting down. It's just my personal preference to have the cylinder mounted so I can feel the inverted flare press up against the sealing cone and then bring the fitting down on the back of the flare.

My first impression would be that if the pedal is soft and it won't go into gear that you have air in the system. Have you tried bleeding it? Pell back the boot on the slave cylinder and see if there's fluid under the boot. If there is, then it's a slow leak and if fluid is getting out, air can get in. Also look under the dash at where the clutch master cylinder attaches to the pedal. See if it's leaking there also. If either are leaking they will need to be replaced.

It's either a bunch of air in the system still, or the piston in either the master or the slave cylinders is out of position or not extended to the point it's pushing the rod into the clutch fork. Did you have to really mess with the pedal linkage when you were putting in the new cylinders? Having to do lots of adjustment to the pedal linkage is a sign somethings not right with the way the master is mounted or the piston it out of position. I've seen some very goofy things happen over the years. I

Not a bad idea to replace both when the master goes down. Gotta bleed the whole system anyway at that point.

It's about the same amount of frustration with the added bonus of having to hold the slave cylinder with one hand and trying to get the hard line fitting going with the other hand while fluid is draining over everything. Over the years I found that leaving the cylinder mounted and in a fixed position while undoing the clip to give the hard line some movement makes it easier to get the hardline fitting started into the cylinder. Leaving the slave cylinder mounted also lets you push the hard line through the fitting and seat the line flare against the cylinder cone and then screw down the fitting (doing that helps to #1 slow down the leaking and #2 makes getting the fitting started easier. You absolutely do not want to cross thread that fitting into the cylinder...

I've never done one on a Camry, but the repair principles should be the same.

I have always had at least one manual trans vehicle around. Even a beater. Too bad for those that don't know how to use one. What if the only vehicle on hand to get you out of a situation is a manual shift ? I advise everyone to at least learn how to operate one AND to learn how to double clutch on older vehicles. May come in handy.

Its a pickuo

I just used some bearing grease I had laying around. Just use something that won't wash out and is safe for rubber seals. I think I specifically used Park bicycle bearing grease because I have a huge tube of it right next to the work bench. You are basically just trying to coat surfaces that will rust and provide a little lubrication between the pushrod of the clutch slave and the throwout bearing fork arm.

Do you think Silicon paste will be ok?

It should not take much force at all to move the rod and piston back into the slave cylinder when you are mounting the new (dry) slave cylinder. You simply push the rod against the clutch fork and the rod will move the slave cylinder piston back a bit while you get the slave cylinder body lined up with mounting holes. If you look at time 19:13 in the video you can see the actual spring behind the piston, it's barely anything. Now, if the hydraulic line is installed and there's no air in the system you'd have to fight hydraulic pressure to push the piston back and that would be pretty hard. If for some reason you were trying to hook up a slave cylinder that is connected to the hydraulic system and full already, you could just crack the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder while you're trying to get it into position. That release of pressure would let the piston push backwards much easier why you try to line up the slave cylinder body with the bolt holes. (Put a hose on the bleeder screw to route fluid to a container when you crack the bleeder.) If you can't push the piston back inside a new (dry) slave cylinder with light pressure something is probably wrong with the part itself (at least as 22r series engines goes.)

If fluid isn't leaking from the hard line something is blocking the fluid from draining from the clutch master. If the pedal is on the floor it could be possible the piston in the master cylinder is stuck so far forward that it's blocking the reservoir, keeping it from draining. There's probably a LOT of air in the system too. You're going to need to do a full bleed once you figure out what's up with the master cylinder.

This video is for the front main seal, but it's also how to remove and replace the oil pump on a 22R series: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5eozfLpEJds.html

@@WheeliePete answered my question. Thank you sir

Your clutch master cylinder is most likely at fault. The slave cylinder only fails two ways, it will leak like crazy or if the piston is seized (but not leaking) in the slave cylinder, the pedal will be rock hard with no movement of the slave piston. The piston in the clutch master is probably not sealing and fluid is bleeding past it back into the reservoir when you push on it. Make sure you peel back the boot on the slave just to see if there's anything pooling up behind it. It could be holding just enough pressure and then leaking slowly, filling up the area between the boot and the piston. If your fluid level isn't changing though it's probably the master cylinder.

Dude same on my 97 Tacoma shit sucks

Any grease that is safe for seals and o-rings will work. I work on motorcycles a lot so I always have a tub of Maxima Waterproof Grease around the shop bench. It's a good heavy grease that won't wash out and is safe on seals and such. Amazon link: amzn.to/2Em2J54

If you let it drain all the way down, air will get up in the clutch master cylinder. There should be a little disc in the reservoir to seal the thing as the level drops to the bottom, but air will find a way to get up in there if you let it drain all the way down through the connection at the slave. Even a little bit of air in the system will cause you a headache as the air bubble will compress and make the pedal feel spongey when you push it. It's just best not to let the level of fluid in the master reservoir ever reach the bottom of the reservoir if you can possibly avoid it.

My '79 has a different hydraulic connection at the slave and the end is threaded and wide and blunt so it is hard to stop that end. Instead, I put a piece of saran cling wrap over the master fluid reservoir then put cap on to slow down the drip as you disassemble the slave and put new one on. Mine also had a return spring on the slave that you have to take off and leave off as you adjust the play, then replace spring and remember to remove saran wrap.

@@WheeliePete I was wondering what the disc was for...

@@WheeliePete Why not just put a tight latex seal on the top of the reservoir to create a vacuum so there won't be any bleed? or does it not work that way?

I've never tried that. Seems like it might help with the drain down. Next time I have to do one I'll see what it does.

The slave cylinder pushrod pushes on the clutch fork to disengage the clutch from the flywheel on the back of the engine. If the clutch isn't disengaged and you try to shift, unless the rpms of the engine line up with the spinning of the transmission (rpm shifting), you'll grind the gears trying to shift. Block the wheels, crawl under the truck, and have someone work the clutch and you should be able to visually see if the clutch slave cylinder is moving the clutch fork. If you have air in the system, the air will compress before the clutch fork is moved by the slave cylinder pushrod. The rod should move immediately when the clutch pedal is depressed.

@@WheeliePete Thks very much for the info. I will have to try this and see..jc

Sounds like the clutch master cylinder is leaking. There shouldn't be any brake fluid at all coming out of the cylinder into the cab. You'll have to replace it and then bleed the system.

Nope. They are separate parts. If the master isn't leaking, no reason to replace it unless you just really want to.

@@WheeliePete Thx to your reply. God bless you !

I've never had the pleasure of working on a mid-engine car. I bet it's a treat (sarcasm). I've had squeaking with a clutch before but it's usually the throwout bearing or the ears of the clutch fork being dry against the throwout bearing cradle and then when press the clutch I get a squeak. Fixing either of those things means dropping the tranny. When you say you can move the clutch away from the flywheel you mean moving the arm so it pulls the throwout bearing away from the pressure plate fingers right? I can see where a longer push rod from the slave might take up some of that slack, but I'm not sure where the squeak is coming from. Have you got under there and had someone push on the clutch with the car off and see if the squeak is in the arm pivot? If it's squeaking only when the car is running I'd be leaning towards the throwout bearing. Since you changed the slave and master recently and re-bled everyrthing, it might be just applying more force to the bearing intitally, or it might be engaging quicker, or in a slightly different spot. Tough one to pin down and the lack of working room just makes it that much worse...

WheeliePete Yes, that’s a better explanation. It actually sounds as if the clutch is only partially engaged and rubbing on the flywheel even though the pedal is depressed. It only does this on start-up. I can try getting someone to push the clutch and start the car while I hold the arm at full extension. Unfortunately, I’m the only mechanical person I know, so that’ll be difficult. I thought about bypassing the clutch switch and starting it in neutral without the clutch. It really is a PITA to change that slave and the bleeder valve is located almost a foot lower on a bleed block where the rubber line starts. I wonder if there isn’t still air trapped in the slave itself.

If the bleeder is lower than the slave there's probably air trapped in the slave or the line to the slave from the bleeder. Can you fill the slave and the line dangling them below the bleed block and then put them up into position? I bet there's a special procedure for dealing with this. You have a factory service manual for this car? I'm wondering if there's a special process for this one. If it was fine before the new master and slave, chances are it's something with the new installed parts. Air would keep the clutch from possibly disengaging as the air would compress and not let the slave push the arm as effectively.

I'd leave it alone until it starts leaking. Just have a spare ready to go. That's quite a life though on the original! If you can afford to buy AISIN again, I would.

You could do that. It drains pretty fast, but there's actually quite a bit of fluid up in that reservoir. If you managed to drain a whole reservoir trying to get the fitting back into the slave cylinder there would probably be something else wrong (like messed up threads on the fitting or the new slave.)

It's just a steel rod, kind of like a long pill. The only difference in each end of the rod is that there is probably a groove towards one end that the dust boot locks into. If you have it backwards in the slave cylinder the boot is going to be free-floating on the end of the rod.

@@WheeliePete ok. thanks for the information. I will change it when I do my oil change. Great video man!!!