You are a VERY good man, Peter! Many mechanics would have billed her for the entire clutch job while only swapping out the clutch master cylinder. Your customers are truly blessed to have you.
I'm watching this now because my clutch has failed me today. The symptoms you mention with the clutch engaging too soon are all things that I've experienced but as this is my first manual transmission car, I had thought they were normal things to expect. Tomorrow I will confirm the diagnosis of my car but this is a hidden gem video for sure!
This is EXACTLY what my clutch master cylinder did! It was very sneaking exactly like you say! No leak but only pushing out fluid right at the very end of the rod's travel! Thank you 🙏
My clutch randomly failed on me and started getting stuck to the floor. I was panicking like crazy in the middle of a busy street. After seeing this I confirmed my suspicions. I may also replace my slave cylinder at the same time as the clutch master cylinder. Thanks for the amazing info
Wonderful. This is another topic I'd been meaning to look up. I don't mind you doing multiple videos on things like oil replacements because it's different on different vehicles, it's nice to see those differences. But you also manage a great variety of topics on this channel Peter. Well done on this fix and thank you again for sharing.
I took my 03 Subaru WRX to many shops describing exactly the same problem to them and they all suggested I replace my clutch and clutch fork. Thing is I had my clutch replaced about 50,000 miles ago and I baby the car. I knew it had to be a hydraulic issue of some kind because of the behavior. Watching this video both makes me feel much better and confirms my suspicions. I'm going to go out and do this job myself for ~$65 right now instead of the $1200 or so the shops wanted to charge.
Thank you! Had same symptoms, removed whole clutch hydraulic system and wasn't sure what a bad master would do vs. a good one. My master is doing the exact same thing, thanks for the clear explanation!
WOW I'M SO HAPPY I JUST WATCHED THIS VIDEO!!!! What you described is EXACTLY what's happening with my Honda Crv!!! Today i replaced the rubber and spring on the slave cylinder, and there was hardly any movement on the piston of the slave cylinder. So now i know to repair/replace the master cylinder!!! 😃 Awesome!!!
Had the same issue on my wife's '06 tC. I ended up wearing out the 2nd gear syncro. Now with the new master cylinder, 2nd grinds when you shift aggressively... So the advise is, do not delay this repair because you end up shifting with the clutch still partially engaged.
Help... sometime in the future??? How about right now??? Mine is shat, and your diagnostic advice will be heeded. Thanks Man! You have saved me quite a bit of money, I would say.
So crazy... this is exactly what is happening to me right now!! My 2010 Toyota Tacoma V6 has had a difficult time shifting lately. There are NO leaks anywhere and no clutch slipping. So, I changed out the Slave cylinder and bled the system 3 times; the last was with the pressure tool. There was a lot of muck in the drained fluid. I had intermittent smooth shifting but it would keep reverting to a stiff stick. So, my next choice was to replace the Master cylinder. I just bought it yesterday and will replace on Saturday. Low and behold, I watch this and now believe this is definitely the issue. I thought I had an air pocket/bubble issue but it was the Master cylinder all along!!! Thank you so much for this video and clear explanation.
Thanks, I have been wondering why my clutch pedal sinks to the floor in my 93 Nissan D-21. The lack of fluid loss had me perplexed. I bought a new master and slave cylinder and will be replacing this weekend. And NO,the term master cylinder and slave cylinder is NOT racist !
thank you very much for this wonderful video, very good and clear explanations; it's really helpfull to me; this happens because people never replace fluid on that hidraulic system. big hug and whish you all the best 👍
Thanks to your video my 89 GMC doing same thing I first thought it was the slave cylinder changed it no differnts But when you said master cylinder had black grim in it and leaking off Now I know what the real problem was after watching half dozen other videos no one else talked about black grim and leaking off when clutch was pressed in
The first part of travel in the master cylinder is where it blocks the port to the supply off, then it will start to pump out through the line, when you release the pedal it moves back and opens the port to the reservoir again, if the piston is pushed too far forward at rest it cannot let the cylinder refill and will lose it's ability to pump the correct amount of fluid to operate the slave cylinder.
thank you for the explanation! . This is probably my problem too but at very early stage. Occasionally and randomly my clutch refuse engage and there was some rough shifting. My mechanic made a quick check upon request but there was not external leakage at the rod. The piston seal (internal) and not rod seal (external) failed that does not allow sufficient pressure to actuate the clutch.
This is exactly what happened to my 2006 Scion tC. The first mechanic I brought it to didn't fix it right and I brought it back to him to fix and he just tried to adjust with the nut which didn't work. I would up taking it to a different mechanic who fixed it. The first mechanic lost me as a customer losing a 5 vehicle customer permanently while the 2nd mechanic just gained 5 vehicles.
Thanks big man next time I would like watch your video on how to replace the seals on the steering system especially at the bottom near the inner tie rods.
It makes me wonder how many clutches are replaced too soon, only to find the problem persists. Is there any screening test you can do, to easily to tell if your slave cylinder isn't getting a full swing?
A few months ago I came to a light and wasn't able to shift into any gear which resulted in a tow. Shop says slave cylinder or clutch and recommend both since the transmission had to come out either way. This didn't fix anything. I've been back over 3x now and it's still not fixed so this is next on the list
Tnkx, helped me a lot, mine clutch master cylinder is almost like that. I thought was just air stuck in the system, i am still learning so i asked myself. Oh is really same fluid and reservoir for clutch and brake? I was surprised. But i had bled the brakes before. But wasn’t sure about have air still or not. Then i did a simple procedure to bleed out the master and slave cylinders, worked but i never saw any air coming off. Instead just had what seems a vacuum type of thing, don’t explain, doesn’t make any sense. So i just had to add more fluid. A good amount, did this through the bleed put valve on the slave cylinder. So pulling back the pedal would suck in the extra fluid. And was done and perfect working, well lasted for about 2 weeks or 3 and is already halfway again. I always notice since i got the car that the pedal is very stiff, even hurts the ankle. Its a jetta 1999 mk4 vw diesel 1.9 with 232.500 miles on it. Would a clutch pedal be normally very stiff . Another thing i like your accent, and the way you talk reminds me psychos in horror movie lol.
Awesome video, I thought my clutch was bad when I couldn't get it in or out of gear with the car running, and would start to engage almost immediately. And at times would have to pump the clutch pedal repeatedly for a minute to get it to go into gear. I'm going to replace the master cylinder this weekend and see if I can save some cash, again thanks for the good informational video
Next time please consider disassembling it and showing us the rubber plunger and the probably badly pitted and corroded metal cylinder. If the rubber broke down a rebuild could fix it. If the cylinder is pitted, was it from water in the clutch fluid corroding it? What was the reason for the failure?
Priceless information. Same thing is happening in my BMW. It will not engage first from a stoplight. However, if I push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold 5 seconds first gear engages like butter. My master is probably bad.
After watching many videos on clutch hydraulics your is the best. I am a DIYer and for the first time I am dealing with a 2004 Civic Si with a clutch pedal that has no clutch pedal resistance, it goes to the floor and hardly returns. The car has been sitting 7 yrs without being used. The master cylinder was full and no signs of leakage. Should I just replace the master and slave? What is the simpilest way to try and bleed the system? Thankyou.
Hey I have a 09 Camry. My clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor. I replaced the slave and bled it the regular way by pumping and bleeding the nipple. The pedal goes back all the way to the floor. I haven’t changed the master but I’m not sure what else to check. What do you think it could be? Could it have more air in the system? I can’t shift any gears once I start the car. Car off I can shift the gears.
Good video. What about cars that have a clutch vacuum booster. My 1991 Nissan skyline GT-R has a weak clutch pedal and after pumping it 3-4 times the pedal becomes stiff again like normal. Already replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave. Still having the problem. Clutch engagement is good tho. No fluid leaks. Reservor is full. Pedal dose make noise like air is going in tho
Where are you located? I'd love to have you look at my 2005 Corolla CE. I'm in Toronto, Canada. Any recommendations for Toyota tech's in my neck of the woods?
My 1999 Honda civic Dx hatchback 5 speed makes grinding noises when I have the clutch engaged. When I drive and let go of the acceleration the car starts to make grinding noise. I asked my mechanic had he said it can probably be my clutch master cylinder and I wasn’t sure if it was true or not. Can you help me find out what’s wrong with it?
Hei I have a leak under engine in the center Transit 2004, 2.0 tdcia Gear box got completely stuck 5 times already during last week. It begin with bad changing of gear 2. Some video suggests that release bearing must be changed and it is removing gearbox.
My car clutch is not to floor. And it sounds like it’s going in gear but nothing happens. It won’t move. I can smell a strange burning. Would u think it’s clutch replacement or slave?
I replaced one and now I have a similar issue I press on it and It goes all the way down, do you think the master cylinder might of come out defective?
Hey my car won't let me get in gear when accelerating hard. Normal daily use it drives fine. I inspected my slave cylinder and it moves out instantly when I press the clutch pedal a tiny bit. Can my master cylinder still be faulty to not fully depress my pressure plate to not let the clutch disengage fully?
Thank you for your fantastic video. I have the same problem as what you described. The only difference is that mine is eenj more sneaky as it only happen during stop start traffic lasting more than 30 mins. When that happens, shutting off the engine for 15 mins and the clutch will return to normal again.
@cttan456 Could be expansion of the flexible line going to your slave cylinder especially if it passes near anything like a radiator or exhaust system. The heat soak while sitting in traffic will allow the flexible line to expand and heating the fluid acting as a double whammy when reducing the effectiveness of your clutch purchase. Also how old is your fluid it should be changed every couple of years.
Ive done already the replacement of clutch slave assymbly, but its still failure i coud not bleed the fluid the clutch pedal is very soft when you push, the push rod on the clutch slave it doesnt move, what is the deffect?
How to tell the difference from a bad clutch master cylinder from a bad master slave cylinder? I think I may have a bad clutch master cylinder because my brake - clutch fluid uses the same reservoir and when I checked it all the fluid was gone. My clutch pedal goes to the floor really easy, and the engine starts up, but it doesn't come back up unless I pull it with my foot.
My clutch master cylinder came with a packet of pink grease. Do you know where it goes? It says the cup of the clutch master, in not sure what the cup is
I've gone through many in my 82' to 92' Camaro and I believe the "dirty" resevoirs are a sign the cup seals are abrading themselves against the fill port because they're too soft. What to do about it I've yet to figure out. Get proper internal snap-rings, build a jig to hold it for assembly, and get a line on some quality cup seals so I can rebuild the thing myself I guess. S has jsut gotten ridiculous and my pedal geometry is just as centered as can be. It's a real pisser man.
My first car was a 1965 Simca from France I could have used this video because the master cylinder was bad and because I was a new mechanic I couldn't figure out how to fix it Now I need a time machine to go back in time and fix it thank you Peter
Can you tell me what Toyota came from that master cylinder, because it looks like exactly the same that my Subaru and maybe I got luckier look for a Toyota master cylinder than a Subaru in my City, here, subarus are very rare
I think I have a similar problem no leaks but when is hot weather the clutch just fill spongy and sometimes har to get into gears especially 1 and second gear.i bleed the clutch yesterday and still the same today
