I LOVE Roadside and can’t wait to climb it again next season. When I’m climbing 12s I’ll have to try that crack as a layback like he did. Seems that wonderful climb has a sliding grading scale, and options for the whole family. 🤣
No shirt... 1000 cams on each gear loop, plus an extra sling of cams just in case? Chalked up to the elbows? Random question from buddy about first bit of gear? Random answer of "I dunno, 10 ft maybe?" Lots of shuffling. Layback??? *Grabs popcorn* - This should be good!
What a great video of what not to do, thank you for keeping this up! What can you learn from it: -Dont layback a crack, you cant properly place gear that way -place gear more often if you wanna keep it safe -Know your cam sizing -There's no need to extend your cams in a vertical crack, where should the rope drag? -As the belayer, dont ever take your brake hand of the belay device.
1:43 "So always a sling, Rob?" "Not always, but... especially low." "Oh." "Well..." "I figure not low because..." "Yeah, but, I'm talking about rope drag, really." "Oh, ok." "This is just a mental piece, just to get going." "Yeah, I gotcha." Straight crack, rope drag??? Extend your first piece so it's useless to keep you off the deck. Run it out above said piece until you're about to blow. Excellent trad climbing. 2:50 "Can you get anything in there?" Can you get anything in a perfect splitter crack? Yes, yes you can. Wherever you want. 4:15 "How am I looking?" Look down and figure out if you're going to deck, you're leading, pay attention to your gear spacing. Dude is super lucky he didn't deck.
Probably one of the most painful trad vids for me to watch. Would have been such an easy walk if he knew how to jam and cruise straight up it. Thanks for typing this out, made me bust up laughing.
Where to begin? An A0 crack probably led on hexes 45 years ago, yet sketchy here. Place gear as soon as a ground fall would be problematic; then, repeat at least often enough to stay off the ground; he fell upside down and nearly decked, which at least would be a broken neck, if not a skull fracture - hardly a "high five" moment. Leave the GoPro at home until you learn to climb safely. That includes basic gear management, i.e. not having to untie a sling before you can clip it, and anyway a standard quickdraw would have been ample there. The belayer wasn't even anchored, so could have been yanked hard enough to lose control of the rope. I rope-soloed Half Dome before Friends were invented, and never felt as sketched as this. Come on, guys. RU-vid has stolen our ability to think.
I’m terrified at so many parts of this climber’s choices. -Belayer didn’t check cross check knots -Belayer did not spot the climber before gear was placed. -Climber was turning an east crack climb into a layback for some reason? -Climber had terrible rope management, which is why he flipped UPSIDE DOWN when falling! This is a basic ‘what not to do’ for all beginning lead climbers. Oh damn. He was SO CLOSE to decking HEAD FIRST!! -- I’m not the strongest climber at times, and this 5.7 rating for at least the first half is super accurate. But that’s when climbed as the crack that it is. 😅 Those walls are smoooooth and trying to smear up them must have been truly exhausting on him. But turn your turn sideways and stick even a toe in there and you’re as bomber as those #2s!
I’m glad your safe forsure , for future climbs I think you should work on using your short quick draws , always keep your rope high if you can it what I was taught and it’s kept me safe so far , all love 🙏🏼 keep climbing, it your around Colorado hmu
Dude! That was a horror show! Yer lucky you weren’t injured or worse! You didn’t need or want to extend your first piece, which would have been a better placement reversed 180 degrees and placed further into the crack. But the run outs! You don’t want to go nearly that far between pieces when low on a pitch plus complete maxed! There were places where you probably would have decked. Take Care!
Dude.... I don't mean to pile up criticism on this, but there are not good reason to be taking that nasty a fall on a crack that can be protected literally a any point from the ground up. Be careful, you're going to end up in a wheelchair or worse climbing like that...
Man, climbing has changed a lot since I did it. Climbed devils tower, did some sport routes in the black hills, climbed all over the Wichitas, and did a ton of gym climbing. Climbers used to be friendly, caring, and quick to give beta. Now you got climbers hoping people fall. Sad really.
Not for this specifically. Mainly to keep from hitting your melon. But seriously, while it's good to wear a helmet. People nowadays seem to take more stock in that rather than learning how to climb what they get on. This is a shining example.
@@oskarwow He never locked off, rewatch the end just before he high fives him (with the brake hand!) - it's a damn good job that's an auto-locking device!
If you ain't falling you ain't learning. Gotta learn some how. Keeping it short and easily protectable. Nvm the haters that are too scared to lead and stick to boulders. Your gear held and you're getting out there and doing it. Props dude, keep it up and stay safe. Wish I had clean rock like that where I live.
Palms sweating watching this. A lot of negativity in the comments, good learning experience for the climber. Liebacking that probably pushes the grade to 5.10...
I always make the mistake of reading comments on RU-vid watching climbing videos. Just makes me sad how many people are just absolute dicks out there! There are always people like that in every community though I guess!
@@benjaminnicholls5222 I had to watch it again. He was doing fine - nasty for me though. I am pretty tall. It did look like it had a pretty good edge on it for an easy hold.
1. He is laybacking a perfect hand crack 2. The #1 was a little too small, and he went for a #3 before #2 in perfect hand crack 3. He placed the first piece very low to the ground AND extended it for no reason 4. He climbed way too far above that first piece 5. The second #2 was placed blindly. He is lucky it was the right size 6. He climbed pretty far above the second #2 7. He's still laybacking the perfect hand crack 8. He had the rope behind his leg 9. They seemed stoked about his almost head-first deck which could have seriously injured or killed him
I mean everyone is giving him crap because he could have done a million things different. But I think considering he’s alive and well he took all of proper precautions for when something went wrong
