great video. really appreciate all the hard work you do to help out others who are new to traditional Archery. I really enjoy your channel nice to see others who are as passionate about the stickbow as I am. thanks
Great vids man, thanks much appreciated. When you next get some time is there any chance you could make one or two on trad tuning for both the bow (brace height, string nock setup, silencers, arrow weight-handshock effects etc.) & the arrow (shaft material, spine, fitting nocks n points as parallel as pos, straight/helical, points/broadheads, arrow length,). I *think* I know most of it but would be nice to hear it from a pro in one place & would be great for new trad archers too! You could even do it from the perspective of a beginner ordering an entry level longbow (such as the bucktrail blackhawk) or a fieldbow (like the Samick Sage for example) & the shafts/points etc & what you would do (from taking it out of the box, setup, arrow making, tuning & shooting). I feel a video like this would be immensely helpful to those wanting to get started but are put off by the complexity of recurve/compound & are attracted to trad due to the simplicity & the comparative low cost of starting to shoot. I know you can search around a piece it together but would be great to have it come from one archer & have it in one place. Kind regards & good shooting!
Thx for your vid. If what you say is true, then every bow with a shelf on it would have two beads or ridge points of contact built-in, one under the arrow and the other off to the side. I've never seen that.
My shelf has a crown to it already that is more center. If I place a thicker piece of leather at the deepest part of my grip it's almost as high as the crown which makes it more flat
If I remember right on the old bear recurve I had the shelf was domed with the highest point in the center, that way if you changed your nocking point it would just rock in the center. That's how I made mine for my Osage bow also, would I get more accuracy if I cut it down like you're suggesting ? Also I wish you wouldn't take so much time between RU-vid videos, I really enjoy watching you, thanks.
+Shane K Hi Shane, if your point for your arrow is significantly in front of the point of contact between the bow and your hand you'll get some lever effect. It may be slight but every little bit counts. If you don't want to permanently change your arrow shelf to start with, you can just build it up by gluing some leather wherever you want to arrow to rest. you can always remove that later if you don't like it. I'd love to be able to put out an archery video each week but, sometimes making a living gets in the way...
Question. Just got a new to me recurve bow secondhand. Unlike my others, the shelf is not curved, but flat. After a day of shots noticed it fraying the bottom fletching. I adjusted the knock point (I'd installed it myself was too high) and put a piece of felt on the shelf, seems better. But I'm wondering if I should take a file or sandpaper and radius or curve the shelf myself. Should I do this? Don't want to ruin the riser. fyi it's a 60 lb bow, 58" if that helps...
Great video's. Been a fan for awhile. Is there any information on reflexing white woods- Hickory or white oak, I've tried steam and heat, even both. Any help would really help. I've got all sorts of Hedge "Osage", and was one of the guys who tried to help your Kansas buck questions. Thank you
If you've got access to lots of osage, it's probably the best wood out there. Probably 90% of my experience is with osage which takes a bend very well. I've made a few bows from whitewoods but never tried to steam them. I always try to get the limbs as thin as possible before steaming. Mine are almost finished before putting any heat to them. I'll steam the limbs for 15-20 minutes or so then clamp them in the form and let them cool overnight. I've got a hickory stave I've been meaning to dig into. I'll steam some reflex and post a vid on how it works.
Hello sir. I shoot historical (roughly medieval) Mongolian and Hungarian horsebows, which use your hand as the arrow rest. My understanding is that the Archer's Paradox of the wobbling arrow is much more significant with my type of bow vs a more modern recurve as you demonstrate that has a severe cut-out arrow rest. Can you confirm/clarify the differences between these two types of bows and exactly and how much the indented arrow rest affects the arrow flight on the horizontal axis? Thank you, love your vids!
Sure thing. With a bow that has no cut out, the arrow must deflect around a much wider area. This causes a much more pronounced paradox. But if tuned properly, both designs will shoot very accurately.
Good vid, a lot of guys say not to cut the self to center shot on a Osage, that's what I like to do. I noticed that all of your bows look like they are. Could you clear this up for me.
The arrow shelf was invented sometime during the 1900s (possibly as early as the late 30's, certainly not any earlier, but it wasn't really common, even in 1950) As such, any archery involving an arrow shelf (much less a sight window!) cannot possibly be termed traditional (it's within living memory, FFS!). Speaking of which: The "pistol grip" of modern bows, was invented in around the 30's-40's. I forget the exact dates.
@@clayhayeshunter On what basis, do you call bows of the 1930's, primitive? ...and how is something "traditional", when it is within living memory? When it's only been a thing, for about 60 years?
@@jerryevans5466 That's a *family* tradition. That's different. Context matters. Also, how is something a "traditional" bow, if it is a design that far outdates the lifetime of bows (i.e. the time when bows were genuinely used for hunting and combat, rather than pure, anachronistic, recreation)
Well crap. I've NOT been doing my rest like this. My point of contact has usually been near the center of my bow. With minimal contact. What's the reason for the position if you don't mind my asking? Just more stability or what? Thanks
@@clayhayeshunter Then it would certainly be individual to the bows fulcrum. Most commercial shelves are crowned with the crown more towards the center. Is that a product of their bows characteristics or are you saying that they do so in error?
They usually have have more of a cut-in pistol grip than this bow, so the point of contact for the hand is actually pretty much aligned with the highest point of the shelf.
