I like how u took care of his dryer vent like that. Says a lot about a person. Takes you 5-10 minutes of ur day to save the customer headaches and money down the line. U seem like a great guy Ted
And screws are now allowed in dryer vents since 2012 I believe. For the exact reason you fixed, eg the vent ducts fall apart. They are limited to 1/4” inside as a compromise.
I’ve been in the industry for over 25 years and a can’t tell you enough Thank You for being a professional and taking care of not only the ac issue but stopped to fix something that you saw needed to be fixed and just fixed it. Keep doing what you do. Stay safe
Thank you for your honesty uncle Ted. I’ve been watching hvac yt for a short time and I’ve noticed a trend. Some do it for the love of the trade. Some do it for the views while getting traction for their work and honesty. And some straight rip people off and do it for views. All to chase they almighty dollar.
You sir are a true professional. Anyone can up sell and replace parts. Troubleshooting and diagnostics are invaluable. Honesty and integrity go a long way in this business.
There are lots of videos with a TIME IS MONEY attitude and some sloppy work as a result of only spending 30 min on the job for the flat fee charged. Its great to see an honest tradesman who cares enough to make the customer happy and earn repeat business.
Your work here and on other videos give me a good feeling that there are a few of us older journeyman techs that still give a s7/t about looks, and function together, like my father in law said and did. "an extra five or ten now may save you a costly hour(s) later. I saw the 80% Goodman install under home. ha. .. I see that daily up in Michigan alot..quick hack install and try to sell if code enforcement inspector don't flag it. Take care during the pandemic and keep learning.
I thought you would have pressurized with nitrogen. For all we know, the Teflon rings could be missing. Keep up the good videos. I like seeing what's out there in residential land
When you hear hoof beats, think horses, not zebras. They just forgot to tighten from fingertight to final torque. Shit happens. But it’s relatively unlikely that they’d *also* have made another big mistake at the same time. And draining the entire system, vacuuming, then nitrogen, then refilling... that’s a pretty big investment in time which equals money, for a low likelihood of an upside.
I had an an almost identical problem with a Trane in and attic at a allergy clinic. Same deal, the txt was loose leaking just like yours only not quite as bad. That was the installer on the one I worked on.
i absolutely enjoy how you take care of your customers or potential new customers.the only difference between what you do and 50 other places that do the same thing is" customer service".one big family not customers.
Good catch on the dryer very. Very dangerous venting in the crawlspace. I would never have a dryer in my house where I couldn't vent it directly out the wall.
I like to use metal plumbing strap around the pipe and screw the strap up to the floor joist. This way I'm not overstepping any codes and keep the vent from sliding down/moving once it heats up. Great video- just a suggestion.
Christian Dwyer - the metal strap works and is cheaper than proper hangers. I just replaced the B vent pipe with my new furnace so I used a $5 hanger rather than the metal strap. It just looks better.
Hackers exist in every profession. Their are tons of “licensed” or “certified” hacks working in HVAC and auto repair. I have even run across several doctors who were nothing but hacks and only wanted to milk the insurance company.
Great video. Being up north I never see heat pumps so always interested in those videos. Personally I would have put that sensing bulb outside the box horizontally, but that’s just me. Keep up the great videos and Merry Christmas.
Andy The Handy Man - If the TXV is inside the case, I usually install the sensing bulb inside also. I just installed a Goodman evaporator with an external TXV so I installed the sensing bulb externally. BTW, the sensing bulb can be mounted vertically, with the tail up.
The last time I called a company to fix my hydronic boiler system, I told the tech, "I'm going watch everything you do, so the next time this happens I'm doing it myself." It cost me $700 with labor for a $100 Taco circulator pump (NYC thievery). I have 5 of those on my system. You do the math. Sure enough a few weeks later one of the other pumps went out. The system is about 15 years old. $100 for the pump and 4 new nuts/bolts, and an hour of my time I was back in business.
There’s a reason you’re paying that. So you don’t damage your machine or harm your family. Messing with any sort of combustion heat source without being an actual professional, is kind of like leaving you’re newborn with a sitter you find on the state register list. There’s levels to this shit man.
And just because your cousin Johnny was a duct sub for 3 months, doesn’t mean he can help you properly install you’re very own extra special super customer Platinum series Goodman furnace and vent pipe for some pizza and Busch light.
You're not just paying for the part. 9 out of 10 times, its not just a cut and dry remove and replace. You can cause a lot of damage if the proper process following the replace of a component is not done. Especially on a closed hydronic system where most all the air needs to be removed from the system.
On the dryer vent I get what your saying, but I always use foil tape and make sure it’s strapped up good. I had one last summer somebody put screws in and it was unreal how badly stopped up it was. I cleaned it out and ditched the screws and foil taped the life out of the joints. Another way would be pop rivets. But again I get why you did it the way you did. When your out in the field working you can’t always do everything the way you’re like to, especially when you have other calls to get to.
The sad part is the guy probably came in and thought they were low, pumped them full of refrigerant, realized it was a TXV, so they paid for the refrigerant and the TXV, then you had to come in and fix the leak, and they needed all new refrigerant again.
If the previous tech didn't even know or be bothered to tighten the TXV fittings properly, he almost certainly didn't pull a vacuum either. I would have recovered and charged in known fresh, uncontaminated 410a, it's not like it's that expensive. Otherwise excellent work as always!
May be overkill, but my HVAC contractor has a service contract arrangement where I pay $15 per month (auto withdrawn) and they come every fall and check/clean the furnace and replace the filter, and in the Spring they checks/clean the AC and replace the filter. If something is wrong and I need parts while they are here I just pay the parts cost. If I have trouble between those re-emptive service calls I pay a reduced base service call fee plus parts. Seems a good deal for both of us and I am sure my equipment gets professional attention. Since I have a contract I go to the head of the list when I have trouble, including nights and weekends (well, along with the other contract holders).
Ever try little zip straps?? On txv’s I used 1 zip on the fill tube 2 on the bulb and snip them tight then I use 2pcs of scrap suction line insulation split in half. Cover the bulb top and bottom and zip strap it up tight. Snip all the strap ends. Put the top ins over the bottom and it looks really nice when your done. And the bulb is tight and well insulated Just my way tho. I hated those metal straps also. Lol.
Why is it more efficient with a plenum? Better airflow? JW cause my dads return is straight flex like that. It’s been like that since the house was built.
The only thing I would have done a little different than what you did was I would have pumped the unit down. And I would have done a pressure test. The technician that replace that TXV probably didn't pressure test with nitrogen. On a heat pump coil I pressure test at 350 PSIG. I would have let it sit for good 10-15 minutes and I would have Bubble tested those joints just to make sure. I replaced the Trane TXV on a old R22 unit and I did have to get it really tight. When it felt so good and snug it wasn't enough I have had to go a little bit more that's what the soap bubbles in the nitrogen did for me.
I never was a fan of just hand tightening all the fittings ... Lol ... The previous 3 Stooges HVAC/R company that did the job should carry wrenches in their tool bags ... Good fix Ted ...
Thats good....Helicopter. At First that went straight on over my head. I dont do residential too much anymore BUT I will have to use that term if a HELICOPTER is hovering over me. 😎👍
Even better is when the homeowner is out recording you while you are recording lol. I don't work on residential stuff except for family and a few friends, I got my HVAC stuff to service radio customers comms shelter climate control systems alongside their comms equipment. It's easier for them to have everything on one ticker and PO
That's gorilla snot. We used it in place of all factory grommets. Tried to beat factory air tight ratings. Also TXV bulbs really should have copper brackets. The copper transfers heat into the entire bulb. Seen a lot of zip ties and Panduits.
Basically my boss said to tighten those up as much as you can, but I think if they give a torque rating to use a torque wrench, cause you can over do it. For those sensing bulbs I like those metal pipe clamps that tighten via a screw.
With the valve being that loose I would guess that it didn't have a proper vacuum pulled on it. Also with it being 410 (not freon as someone pointed out🤓) it's a blend and cheap, would it not be easy to talk the customer into pulling a proper vacuum and replacing the, not freon?.
The TX valve, did he check for leaks with bubbles? Before and after? The TX bulb, no use of heat transfer paste? Was the condensor fan coming on eventually? Checking all these allows you to drive off with confidence.
