Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it. I'm definitely still learning myself, and based on some of the comments, I got away lucky with it 😅 Thanks for watching!
I think your research has gone a bit off, the original playstation has an internal power supply and the connection to the system takes 230v AC, the later released PS1 was made smaller in part by externalising the PSU and that outputs I think 7.5v DC like your trying to do so it won't work on the playstation your working on, nice work on the others though
Ahhh, OK. I see. I definitely got myself confused somewhere along there. Thanks for clearing that up for me. So do you think something similar would work with the PSone? Thanks for watching and commenting!
Figure 8 jacks like this is 120v-230v AC as in from wall-jacks, always! I did not know what to think when you soldered that to a PD-board😅 Sorry man, ngl, that was whack😂 Keep on keeping on tho! To be helpful tho, when you see one of those on a console, its not necessarily the end of the road, it just means that you will have to dig a bit deeper and figure out what dc-voltages go from the internal psu to the actual console itself. PS1 phat has 3,5v and 7,9v internally, so any PD-board that can provide these two voltages can be jammed in there in place of the power supply
@espset1234 😂 I greatly appreciate that, man. To be honest, I'm not 100% clued in about these things and like experimenting and seeing what happens and learning from there. Also, alot of comments like yours have been super useful for learning. Which is mostly the reason why I left it in the video. Thanks again for the comment and guidance, and for sticking around 😅
I would install the converters on the inside and soldered to the DC barrel jacks …worth the small hole in the back for how clean that’d be. Trying to figure out how to word this : I’m glad you don’t get hung up too much in the research - that’s how you get things done … but it’s also a how you get hurt or hurt consoles. I’d love to see you improve on this and do another video with “lessons learned” Thanks for the inspiration! Subscribed!
I appreciate the feedback and recommendation. Just now, I'm still learning how all this works and reading online, and then experimenting. Hoping it all works haha. Trial and error, and all that.
@@DReviewTing OTOH, having ones that are on the outside is nice for times when you don't want to mod something that's probably not going to be visible in the first place.
I cringe a lot less because those donors seem to mostly be things that are still being manufactured, so it's not like there would have been any reduction in needed supply anyways. Still, I like that you stated that as it can get rather frustrating watching people destroy perfectly good hardware that's out of production for something stupid.
I definitely appreciate that. I tried to repair the megadrive psu, but figured I'd have to replace capacitors in the end, and I didn't want to chance that, haha. The cable for the snes/nes was a generic power cable for an old router, haha. But aye, I'm definitely not ripping apart something works to get the same result in the end haha.
@@DReviewTing I'm personally on the fence in terms of destructive mods for things like HDMI output being swapped for the original outputs, it's other people's stuff so they can do what they like, but at least it largely maintains the ability to use the unit for it's intended purpose rather than for something stupid like book ends.
@@DReviewTing Presumably burned. Anything that takes DC voltage can't be assumed to have a rectifier built in to ensure that the polarity is correct coming in. I personally, get very annoyed when I buy electronics that doesn't show the polarity of the plug. Most of the time, the center is +, but not always, IIRC 2/3 of the Sega Tower of Power is center +, but one isn't. And getting that wrong can destroy things. You can build a rectifier circuit in or other means of ensuring that the device is protected against reversing the polarity, the circuits aren't necessarily that complicated, especially if you don't care that much about the power efficiency because you're only using the console for a few hours a month. A simple rectifier can be made with just 4 diodes. Allowing current to just flow to one of the outputs for negative and the other for positive. It's not the most efficient circuit, but it can also be used in this case to ensure that the polarity is correct. I may wind up doing something similar with my Sega consoles due to the weirdness of the polarity. I don't know what they were thinking.
i bought some cheap chinese usb PD boards and when i plug my mobile adapter on the wall it takes up to 5 seconds to handshake before i can try powering the console on, otherwise nothing happens : D
The barrel jack input should mean that the console uses low voltage DC power, also look if it has an external PSU, like the large wall warts style plugs, or the power supplies lumps in between the console and the wall, then give this mod a try on it. If the console plugs straight into the wall, without an external PSU, this particular style of mod will not work as it has its own internal PSU, so it needs mains power. Often the internal PSU's have multiple power outs, so 1 x 220V / 110V AC in, but it might have a 12V DC, 9V DC, and a 5V DC out to power various components inside, especially if it has a CD-ROM drive that requires more power. The PSOne, the slimmer and smaller PS1, will work with this mod as that was a DC power in. Or you could open the fat PS1 up, and replace its internal PSU with one that takes a USB-C input straight into the back of the device. I do know that the Commodore 64 external PSU supplies both low voltage DC and AC to the computer, get that wrong and the device dies. So it is always smart to check the power in requirements, measure the polarity of the barrel jack, and measure the voltage output of the power delivery board before plugging it in. Also, if you notice that you get a fuzzier image, try hooking the power delivery board to an oscilloscope, to see if you get a clean power out supply from the device. Or cheaply try a different board.
That is absolutely amazing. Thank you for that detailed comment. That is exactly the feedback I was hoping for. I'm still relatively new to power mods, but thought I'd chance it. Bit now I know why it won't work. I've you ever join our discord, please shoot me a message. I'd love to talk more. Thanks again!
@@DReviewTing I started learning by trying mods like these myself about 5 years ago. Also things like ATX Pico PSU, RGB / HDMI display out mods, then buying and repairing consoles. It's an enjoyable hobby and I've got a Vectrex to work on at the moment, struggling.
@@AFourEyedGeekbro you ever powered an OG Xbox 1.6 with a Pico PSU? STB Voltage is 3.3V but I have yet to find a Pico PSU that has enough Beef to Power the 5V rail. Modern ATX Architecture heavily relies on many amps on the 12V rail rather than the 5 Volts. Revisions 1.0-1.4 can easily be supplied by ATX PSU's but the most recent 1.6 Models are trickier. I want to build a slim version and Power dissipation is a big concern when 3D printing slim cases...
@@Jenkem254 I haven't I'm afraid, I have the XBox's ready to mod, I just prefer the older systems. One day I'll get around to it. A slim version? Great idea. Make sure when you've completed it, you post your process.
I'll need to double-check my model. I also have the disc drive removed in this, which would lower the power requirements. I'll have a closer look. Thanks 😊
