TRASHED Toyota Camry Rav4 Scion TC 2AR-FE 2.5L Engine Teardown 

Thank you Sir

Thanks bud.

Thanks!

Thanks man

Andy! Thanks, man.

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🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I was expecting the water pump channels to be blurred out...

And keeping all those little water pumps fed and... watered... is expensive too!

that's 'discount' adam sandler to you

garbage engines

Excuses excuses for Jap Crap motors

find moose and squirrel

YES, WE DEMAND MALICE

Eric treating us like we are in the Roman Coliseum....and need to see some gory carnage. "Are you not entertained??"

WHEN DO WE WANT IT? NOW!

@@christopherweise438 Yes I am! Thanks @I Do Cars Eric.

@@allenl9031 - Anybody with an Atlanta Flames logo is ok in my book. Makes me miss my Minnesota North Stars.

Here in NZ we have a lot too . Not too long ago ,near where I live , an genius destroyed his brand new HSV V8 by going though a section of road that had only shallow water flowing over it . If he had slowed down a little he would have been OK

They're reliable as hell. Early water pump failure and very minor oil burning (not as bad as the 2AZ-FE's) are the only issues I am aware of

The hood needs to opened often for checking fluid levels. I get your trying to be clever, but it’s silly to use that excuse to never opening your engine compartment hood.

You should probably open the hood every week to check the oil….but that’s just me. At least once a week, maybe 2 times a month if you’re just way too busy.

I did not know I had to be that specific. Yes the fluids are checked@@metalted6128 😅 It was sarcasm because nothing breaks.

@@metalted6128 r/whoosh....

I hear you there! I've had a couple things go on my engine... had to replace the battery, and had to replace the oil pressure switch (cut it started leaking).. aside from that, 151k miles (244k km) and the car is running perfect. Change the fluids regularly and this engine will last at least 400k miles I'm sure!

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boooooooooo... hahaha

Maybe it's self driving? Have you read through the users manual?

Ayy lmao

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I second the Subaru flat 6! May be tough finding one though... They're uncommon and don't fail often.

They're super reliable. Might be a tough find! Subaru's best engine IMO.

Just retire and pay less tax.

@@d47000they are very unreliable

garbage engines

its a running joke. Not supposed to buy used timing guides, chains, or water pumps. Better off buying new anyways.

Crazy how something so important can be so weak also

@@Angel-rn2lqvalves, cranks, cams, rings, bearings. All can be ruined just by dropping or scratching them. Kinda crazy how precise these engines need to be

@@mattb.2359 my only prob with that: every single running engine out there has used timing guides, chains, pumps, tensioners, etc.

why do Toyota chain guides show so little wear, but Ford and GM guides fall apart inside the engines?

Good to know. Thanks!

I also like the gear driven balance casette. Not seen that before. Much better than rubber belts.

@@john1703 Only thing to make it perfect would be a gear drive to the DOHC....and OEM water repellent coating in the air intake system😁😁

I'm a body mechanic. Plus a life long car guy. I see a wide range of 4 cylinders on a yearly basis. We got one in that was hit hard in the back/side. So nothing to do with the fwd drive train in the 2015 rav 4. I was surprised by how bad the nvh on these engines were. If you tap the throttle while in park or neutral it will vibrate the shifter. In a automatic transmission! Compared to kia 2.0, jeep turbo 1.4, jeep turbo 2.0, fiat multi air 2.4, Ford ecoturd 2.0 and 2.5 I found the Toyota harsh, buzzy, and has a horrible exhaust sound. Driving that car was like going back in 4 cylinder time 3 decades to the 90s. I don't care how reliable these are I couldn't live with it every day.

@@beavistechrock Did you drive this write off...or one that had not been hit? Didi you try a second one just in case there was something not quite right about the first "good" one? A lot of money is spent by OEM to stop as much NVH as possible... if they were all this bad?????

@JohnSmith-pl2bk we had a 2017 rav 4 come in recently. Typical frt end hit. Replace fascia, left headlight, a few bezels, align it and ship it. It was a loaded model. Leather, 4x4/awd, all the power goodies. There was less vibration, and less noise with the windows up. But the basic character was the same. I kinda figured your same logic but reversed. For the most part toyota ppl are brand loyal. If they never drove anything else they wouldn't think anything of it. I've owned one 4 cylinder in my life and it was a 1995 quad 4 grand am automatic. It was last year for 2.3 displacement. First year for balance shafts. I bought cause I had no idea it was a 4 til I popped the hood. Idle was smooth, exhaust note was good. They did get kinda raspy above 5k rpm but a 7k redline was pretty impressive in 1995. I've got a 2005 vtec 3.5 pilot for a daily driver. For the winter months I have a 99 4.0 straight 6 grand cherokee. Both are super smooth. My point is the majority of ppl don't pay attention to the things I listed. As long as it drives without rattling apart it's fine. If you get a chance drive a 2018 to present jeep compass or renegade (both can be had in the high 20k low 30k range new) with the 2.4 multi air, the 1.4 turbo or the new 2.0 turbo compass it's a world of difference. One more thing I will cede is it was a 2015. A lot has changed since then.

thats almost wasteful its too often. more like 5-7500 is most realistic.

@@bradhaines3142 you change when you want to, I’ll change when I want to and we’ll both be happy

@@bradhaines3142 Depends if he rakes up 5000 miles in 3 months or if the engine is idled in traffic for an hour each way each day?

​@@bradhaines3142Toyota Recommends 10,000 miles oil changes. There's a known issue with the low tension rings getting sludged so 3-5,000 intervals is much better.

I'd do the same thing, I'd rather waste oil (which can be recycled) and have the insides be clean than take a chance with sludge. :)

They used to be better but I tell u what if I had to buy a new car right now in this day and age it would still be a Toyota

They're not dumbass-proof (as Eric always says check your damn oil) but they're as close as you can get.

All engines will eventually succumb to fatigue. You can increase its lifespan with shot peening by about 100% and cryogenic treat it but it can cost a pretty penny. Also, using the wrong viscosity can seriously damage an engine more so than skipping a service cycle. Coolant can also accumulate electrolytes and eat away at gaskets. Aged coil packs can cause knocking and scratch your liners. And doesn't matter how good an engine is, all the wiring and sensors will also eventually wear out. So there's no trouble-free car out there. Life's a gamble and all you can do is hope for the best.

@@hereb4theend Indeed. It is the plastic parts, electronics and sensors that die. I am afraid the auto industry is in for a tough time going forward. They have squeezed just about every last bit of power and economy out of the gasoline engine. Soon the junk yards are going to be full of these modern over engineered units

Girls just want to have fun!

Funniest part about this is I didn’t learn this fact AT Toyota. I was a machine builder for a long time before coming over to Toyota… They were our largest customer by far, we worked in a lot of powertrain plants all over the country… In this case it was a project for West Virginia powertrain plant and I designed various “line sequence control” type systems that instructed team members or automatic equipment which part to pick from a bin or what operation to perform based on data from a RFID tag or other source. One of them was these bearings for the head sub line. Incidentally the wrong bearings were put in the bins the by some complex chain of failure one time. It wasn’t caught until they had run like 1 quarter of engines (2 hours) which was a couple hundred or something at that particular line… All the engines passed the 3 min warm up booth instrumented test right in the middle of the ranges, no problem because the difference is minuscule but they elected to scrap all of them just in case lol Incidentally now I work as an engineer in the plastics shop of the the global flagship and one of the largest plants of any manufacturer in the world: TMMK in Georgetown Kentucky. We make the intake manifold for this engine which we ship to TMMWV (and also to our own powertrain plant)… I am not over that line however. Myself and 2 other engineers oversee processes on the IP (instrument panel, aka dashboard) line for Camry, Rav4 and Lexus es250 and es 350 (same parts) as well as past model service parts of prior generations and new model planning which is my current focus (exciting stuff coming lol)

This is why I read all of the comments. I did know about bearing sizes but it makes so much more sense than they are compensating for machine/tooling wear

Well said. Very well said!!!

pcv is a scam, have this end on '14 scion tc. just plug the pcv intake manifold, crankcase has enough to breathe with the breather hose

And Billy-Bob is seven years old.

Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics did a video on one of the predecessors of this engine with that exact issue as well. Did an “in-car rebuild” where he took the pistons out one at a time and replaced the oil rings; he also did a little mod on the pistons to help reduce recurrence of the issue in the future. Was in a late 90s Prizm/Corolla if I recall correctly. I’m currently monitoring the oil consumption of our 2AR-FE Highlander with 180k, at about 1 qt per 1500 miles at the moment….

The Car Care Nut is a clueless fool.

I had a 95 Integra GSR that did pretty much the same thing I think. It burnt oil like crazy pretty much the whole time I had the car, and literally dropped a cylinder while on my way to trade it in on another car. I was a kid and bought that car too quickly without checking it fir issues very well. That car was a POS.

It's because people are letting the oil changes go out to 10k miles before changing. This engine needs it done every 3k miles.

@@sephiroth7818 ReALLY are you serious??? I do 12 000 miles on my Merc over 220000 miles and no trouble. Buy Japanese , pollute the World and do your sums on my oil changes vs yours. My German car is much cheaper to run and better for Planet Earth !!!!

That’s a good idea, I agree with you

He'd probably have to speed it up at this point. I think it would be about 3 hours long. 🤣

Oh yea...plenty of room. Not a hard motor at all to work on, and quite tough. They've seen their fair share of cam gear replacements due to cold start rattle, and plenty of water pump replacements though.

I'm looking to do the cam phasers soon on my wife's rav4. I've noticed a little rattle. Never had to do a water pump yet.

Pointed the wrong way

We're not in Japan. No pixelation required.,

oil burning is an old problem from previous engines. these are just rattley out the factory

@@bradhaines3142 early 2ARs do still burn oil, much like the previous 2AZs. It’s never as bad as any 2AZ would get, but can still become cumbersome. The early ones also seem to develop head gasket leaks, much like the 2ZRs. After 2013, seems they fixed those issues for the 2AR. But the VVT-i death rattle still seems to be an issue through all of them.

For example, the 2 AR FXE and and not far away the 2 AR FE is one of the world's best best engines who been ever made. Regards Jay

And...Why u talk rubbish, i had never heared here in Europe not even someone, who reported Oil burning, not at all in the contrary in comparison with such crap like Ford, BMW, VW, Audi benz ect, those Toyota 2 AR FE ore 2 AR FXE are with far distance the best not oil consumpting engine ever at present, its yust a stupid myth that light tensioned or running piston ring ensembles does be obligated to consuming automatically much Oil. Thats matters not at all for Toyotas automatically but thats fully true for such pile of trash like Ford bmw and other German and European designed Cars and Trucks. The annoying start rattle i don't like either because it sounds not smooth in that second after start, thats right.

Like i said

Is the 1.8 the Opel engine?

It's like they think they need to get a run at it. That only makes it worse. It's not like they are going through 8" of snow.

Rutherford Ford in Britain is worth a look on RU-vid if you want to see morons driving through water with nice bow waves and then dead engines.

Your average NYC denizen isn't all that bright

Tarp tightly strapped down across the whole front of the car up the hood and down to the undertray... Drive to create the bow wave... that creates a hole in the water that extends to the engine area and allows the engine to work and also suck in air from wherever it can. Not guaranteed...but if needs must and you are going to drown if you stay on the river bed???

😮Oil is Cheap, Engines, Not So Much😢

I'm a member of Mensa so I go back to square and discern how the goofball ruined a perfectly good engine. I've watched all the episodes of Columbo. I've still got the sins of man etched upon my brow.

Every three months could be a tad excessive, but at least your engine won't have any trouble with sludge or internal varnish. 😊

@@jochenstacker7448 Depends if he rakes up 5000 miles in 3 months or if the engine is idled in traffic for an hour each way each day?

Engine, not motor. An Engine runs on combustion, while a motor runs on electricity. That's why I.C.E. means "Internal Combustion Engine". Electric appliances like Tesla use electric drive motors.

@@demcompnerd alert 🤓🚨👀

@@TreyDarkis nerd? No, it's proper terminology. Again, an engine runs off combustion, while a motor is electric. 🤷 Now you've learned something new, no need to be a dick because you had no clue.

@@demcomp your arguing semantics, buddy. Anybody who’s not a dick knows what he meant and we aren’t pointing it out because it’s not important. Your comment has annoying and know-it-all written all over it pal! Very condescending

You must be somewhere in Eastern Europe or so. Engine carnage transcends international borders. 😉

You named the 3 common "failure" points of the motor. Not much past that.

@@ryanbrown918 that’s great man, it’s almost like you can read a full sentence.

If you check the oil every week and carry a container in your trunk to constantly feed it. These engines are prone to excessive oil consumption due to bad design of piston oil rings!

@@victordobin5918 yes, they do burn oil as they age like most cars. But we have a driver with 370k miles on here and she adds 1 quart between changes. Also saw a 500k mile one who also said he added a quart between changes. They’re not nearly as bad as the 2AZ-FE.

They don’t burn oil if you change the oil between 3 and 5000 miles and maintain it then the oil control rings won’t get gunk up.

@@itsJMoney0192 I changed my oil regularly every 5000 miles and it still burns oil 1.5 - 3.0 quarts every 5000 miles! Toyota messed up on this one for sure!!

Evil

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