I see plenty of times rc off roader owners who proud of his work, but that is only worse than factory setup... But this suspension really handles better the rough surface ! Nice work!
Yes, this is the best setup Ive had for jumps. I'm going to go a bit lighter on fluid to soak up the terrain a bit better but I'm happy with the progress so far.
Ive had my UDR for a long time and ive upgraded many many things to aluminum because i use it like a desert truck rather than a "basher". The shocks are still stock but i recently rebuilt them. It still doesnt work how it was when new as it is pretty well worn out at this point. I would have to go back and look but i think i got mine November of 2018. Can definitely see its age when running it. Just a lot of play in everything or getting gummed up and squeaky. The bearing throughout are ok as i keep up on most bearings, but just all the parts are stretched and or egged out etc. I never even considered changing any of the dampening components as ive gotten used to how it drives. Like i said though, its old and has had many many packs run through it. To get it back to good condition would take buing a whole new one. Anyways, blah blah blah, you did great at tuning your suspension to make it better than stock. Pretty much as good as Losi tuned suspension and if you know Losi, you know they put a LOT of R&D into their suspension geometry and engineering of their parts.
So I bought a full set for my SRR2. Tubeless for the back to run in tandem with the spring shocks. Going to attempt to install the tubed bypass on the front with the added main spring since I cant do a tandem mount on the front of the SRR. Would love to see you do a suspension video on the SRR with bypass
Love this, I got to say, it is looking amazing, I had a look at the post from longxue, and it shows that there is an upper arm for the UDR so you can fit the shock in the front, I think you should do it, and maybe make the compression a bit softer, it looks a bit stiff for the bumps, but otherwise, it looks great
I bought the truck used and the body was on it. I did cut it after it started to crack and split. It was a clear traxxas body the PO painted. Not sure where he got the decals but I want more, lol
Cool, glad it helped. The tire mount is from AfroLucha. It was on there when I got the truck but I know it requires a bit of trimming on the original tire mount
I think that squeak is from your sway bars I had nothing but problems with gpm sway bars, the aluminum stripped easily and 1 link actually snapped from a rollover. I've since gone to hot racing which has been perfect for a year and a half. Vitavon also makes great quality parts for the udr. Just my opinion trying to help.
I think it’s everything. Lol The MFR links are def the main issue. You can feel them creak when moving. I think I’m going to try stock uppers and RPM lowers for now. Will save some weight too.
@@rcilluminati26 You that's kind of funny, I have the titanium upper links in the rear of my Udr, and I used the stock plastic end links for a while until the hot racing aluminum ones came back into stock, where those links meet the Chassis sounded like an old haunted house door or something any movement and eerrr. Sorry I have no idea how to type that sound but boy what difference in noise those links make. Smh I thought it was springs or shocks, rebuilt all 8 new springs, revo kits etc, I am happy now it hasn't broken in a while but I've also changed a little bit on how I drive it. Thanks for the videos hope to see more in the future..
@@rcilluminati26 You may consider the 7mm HD stock links not the 40.00 dollar aluminum ones, just thicker stocks, the originals are like spaghetti noodles.
Ever tried those type with a basher like the max ? I wonder if you could run a softer spring (because the shock would rebound easier) with heavier oil and reduce the bounce after bigger jumps 🤔
Nice driving man. I find out that is quite hard to control UDR on grawel for me. I always ran on 6S power. Question for u…. What is your driving time in average? I have 5000-5500 mah 3S or 6S battery. Average driving time I have is 15min
It seems like 4S run down pretty quick especially in sand. I have some 7200 and they only get about 15-20 min. I run 5200 6S and they last about 20-25 min but really depends on how constant the throttle is. On 4s I’m pretty much full throttle so they drain fast.
Wow you’re UDR run just like I hoped for. My friend has the Arrma Mojave and the car was stable as F1 on tarmac surface when I tested it. The UDR has what I understood a tipping problem? However I don’t want the Mojave, I want the UDR but I’m afraid that I’m going to be frustrated by/if the UDR tipping easily?! Are your setup and upgrading solve that problem? Because yours doesn’t seems to flip around! To the main question, do you know if I can get the UDR comparable the Mojave?
The only time my UDR will flip is on aggressive turns in grass and pavement. If the traction is high it can still flip but I don’t really drive on those surfaces. It also helps to keep the ride height a bit lower. Mine still has the stock sway bar, Vitavon makes a much better one that would help reduce rolls a lot. The Mojave will always have an advantage in turns but the UDR has better suspension for soaking up rough terrain. It’s a trade off I guess and you just learn to drive it differently
Hey man love your videos, question. What kit did you use for the vertical spare tires? I really want to to it but I can’t find any for sale… I don’t want to design and build my own if I can simply buy one, ya know?
I am thinking of getting 1/10th scale ones for my custom 1/10th sct. Would you say that these are worth it above regular shocks? Or is the difference so small that it may not be worth it at a smaller scale?
The smaller scale ones dont have working bypass tubes, only a pressure chamber. I actually have a set I need to build and test. I'd say if you really want the scale look, they are worth it but not sure they will perform noticeably better
The damper kit is cheap, springs are pretty cheap as well. The Bypass shocks were like $150 if I remember correctly but honestly, it works just as well with the stock shocks and variable kit.
They make them in a 135mm which is the right length but with the shocks passing through the upper arms, I'm not positive if theres enough clearance. I might try mounting one just to see.
@@rcilluminati26 I’ve seen the nylon upper a-arms but I’m hoping they’ll make the metal ones. Don’t matter though because I’m still buying the front and rear bypass
FYI…using the front bypass shocks requires the removal of the front sway bar. I have a Vitavon sway bars and won’t be able to use them if the front bypass are installed. Not sure using stock sway has the same issue. 😔
Idk but all that over engineering and tunability of these shocks and it just looks worse than stock, like the suspension travel and smoothness are not as realistic and exaggerated as the stock model…
Its very possible that the tunability doesnt carry over into smaller scale. I've been too busy recently to really dig into the tuning but I will in the future.
