That was a great video. Thank you so much. I know that I would not be boating today if it weren't for folks like you willing to share their knowledge. Cheers
This was helpful for me, even if only tangentially. My trim sender on the port side was pegged as up. In my case, it was the Amphenol connector for which the wires corroded off of the sender-side pins you show popping out with the various tools. I wasn't sure what was in the connector, but looking at what you had done and the bridging of the connectors, it seemed to me that this was JUST a connector and not some sort of circuit breaker or fuse holder. I went ahead and just did heat shrink solder connections to just connect the cables together without the Amphenol. It now reads correctly. Yeah, it's not optimal, but I can always cut the connectors and solder a new one in later.
Chris please provide a link for me to order this exact trim sender and the price. I have the 2004 Cobalt 220 and would like to repair it exactly as you have shown. Your videos are great and super informative. Thanks.
Just for FYI, I have the exact same system. I just cut the wires off the old and new senders, soldered them together, and covered with heat shrink tubing. New sender has been working perfectly 5 years later. Of course I removed the old sending unit first and played around with it while someone else watched the gauge. Then cut the wires to the old sending unit first shorting them together to test the gauge was absolutely working and not at fault. That way I didn't have to trace any wires, pull any plugs apart, or run a fish wire. But I doubt you will find that fix in any manual. Also, my local volvo dealer, who I bought the new sending unit from, told me I had to pull the outdrive off to replace it. Also, I disceted the old sending unit just for fun. It's nothing but a simple rio stat. Probably cost no more than $5 to produce. Got to love capitalism.
@@iomaxx Mine is on the right side of the outdrive. With the drive fully down, move the steering wheel full left. Two small bolts held mine on. Remove the two bolts and it should pull out. Some people recommend marking it's location before you loosen the hold down bolts first, but it's easy to adjust the new unit after installing.
@@davidsine4390 ok thanks, seemed like it wouldn't just pull straight out easily and wasn't sure if there's a bracket or something under it and didn't want to break off a piece while pulling it out.
This is genius BTW. As long as the wire is still good. Definitely going to test this before I do the whole fishing thing. It appears someone tried repairing my existing. Wonder if it’s possible.
The reason to use the hollow pin extraction tool is that there should be a "wing" on each side of the metal pin that needs to be retracted back from the locking mechanism within the connector body. Using the solid rod end of the file will most likely break these wings off when you force the pin out of its housing. Then when reassembling the connector, the mechanical latching mechanism is gone and there is a possibility the pin will back out and you will lose the electrical connection over time.
This isn't your standard connector body plastic - it's more rubbery than they terminal connectors you are referring to. Nothing will break off doing it the way I've shown - I assure you.
What is the procedure for "calibrating" the gauge? It seems the Volvo is a different beast. It seems there is a decent delay when fully trimmed in and trimming out before the gauge starts to move up
I adjust mine so that the middle of the gauge (straight up and down) is lined up with the prop shaft perfectly in line with the hull. I agree that there is a bit of dead zone at the extremes.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts I guess the trim angle is still foreign to me. So you set the outdrive completely straight and the gauge in the middle and just note it’s orientation on the gauge? It seems no matter how I set it, there is quite a bit of lag before it triggers movement.
@@PMPerformance Yes - regarding the trim angle vs gauge. Do you have an observer that can see if the drive is actually moving? Your gauge and drive should move together - except at the extreme positions where the sender has a wider range of resistance values than the gauge is able to display. If you are in the center of travel and still seeing a delay, then it sounds like you have air in your trim cylinder hydraulic system causing the trim cylinders to lag the pump.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts yea I have a helper. It seemed fine other than the extreme angles I believe, so that makes sense. I just did not remember this being an issue with my Mercruiser
Hey Chris, When you pulled the trim sender thru the transom did you use any sealant/adhesive? Also, did you put the retainer clip back on? Great Video BTW! Thx.
Yes - I used black RTV on the rubber plug that goes through the transom shield and I did not put the retainer back on... there was just too little access. I did tie wrap the wire against something in that vicinity, though, to give it some added protection against being pulled out.
I replaced the sending unit. I have a 94 cobalt 252 so the sender and connections are inside the transom. That fixed the trim up/down issue. However, shorting the wires back to the gauge didn’t move the gauge needle. I also have the “ black box” module under the dash close to the gauge. Any ideas???
I don't have personal direct experience with the module but as I understand it, it looks at the resistance coming back from the sender and shuts off the trim pump motor when the resistance reaches a certain value (using the analog signal from the trim sender to implement a Trailer button function). I've never seen the inside or schematic of said black box, so I can't tell you exactly what to look for, but it wouldn't be surprising that you have some issues with the circuitry or connections inside that box. Does the trim motor shut off at the right spot? If so, then the problem is somewhere between the guage and the black box. If not, then its the black box itself or the connection to the trim sender. Since you mentioned fixing the up/down issue, then my guess is that it is the former. Good luck!
Hi Chris. Have you ever changed the volvo penta trim switch on the throttle switch handle? Mine is starting to stick in the up position and I have to manually push it down to off.
A little bit scary to trust rtv to keep seal if you have a boat that lives in a slip? It's below the waterline. I think for trailerboat it would be fine.
It's a fair concern, but I've not had any issues with mine since i did it and it's going on 5 years. I think you'll find that it's pretty tricky to get that clip back in without disassembling some other stuff, and as such, you may not get the clip on fully even if you think you did - so whether you get the clip in or not, I think the RTV is a good idea (belt and suspenders).
How do you use a jumper wire? Can any wire do? Does one side hook up to the battery and the other to one of the pins on the connector to make it jump? I’ve been doing a little research but can’t find a definitive answer just yet. Thank you for any input.
Any wire will do. Use the wire to short together the two pins that go to the sensor (but on the wire that routes to the dash - not the wire that goes to the sensor). If the gauge jumps then your problem is the sensor. If it doesn't, then your problem may be with the gauge. Do not hook to the battery!
@Chris Bruno Thank you so much man. To short the wire going to the gauge, do you touch both leads with each end of the Jump wire? - It’s funny, I’m studying Mechanical Engineering and I’m currently in an electrical engineering class. I guess we haven’t learned that yet. Plus, I was a mechanic in the Marines, never used Jumper wires before so this is all new for me especially as a boat owner.
@@Thomas_Curiel09 go to 2:48. That connector had two wire connections in it. You want to connect them together with a little piece of wire or a paper clip. The trim sensor is just a resistor. You are trying to change the resistance. By using a wire to touch those two connections together, the resistance will go from high(infinity) to zero and the gauge should move. Hope this helps.
@Chris Bruno Sorry for the late response man. I got around to testing the trim sending unit, I used a wire to touch the male connector pins which are coming from the dash (I have a cluster gauge system on my Four Winns 240 horizon) and unfortunately I did not see any jump on the trim gauge. My trim sending unit has a 3 pin male/female connector and I touched the jump wire in different variations on each pin to see if I could get a jump, I didn’t get anything. Now I’m wondering if it is the gauge, how the heck am I going to fix it when it’s a cluster gauge unit, lol. Not sure if you have any input or ideas in what to try next but I do appreciate all your help up until this point.
i did not understood quite well your video ! my trim sending unit is disconnected and theres the white wire like your that is disconnected ! what have u done it a 2pin fitting its all like yours
Some (rare) Volvo outdrives have a control box between the sensor and the guage/switches to implement Volvo's version of the trailer button function. The white wire would be used for those versions.
