In this video, I rebuild my Volvo DP-SM trim cylinders with the kit from Ebay seller: volvopentasupplies. No affiliation! The rebuild process applies to all outdrives using the cylinders with Volvo part numbers: 3857471 & 3857470.
Thanks for the video. I plan to do mine while it’s laid up this winter. My drive slowly drops while on the trailer. Not a ton, but it would be on the ground after a few weeks.
@@jockestenberg7174 the manual documents a complex method of purging air by disconnecting the hoses at the cylinder, but I've found it is not necessary. Just running the cylinders up and down a few times and then maybe doing it again over the course of a few days seems to work all the air out.
Great video! I have the Volvo Penta DP-SM and need just the hydraulic hoses from the unit to the manifold. Where did you find your part numbers for the hoses? The DP-SM schematic doesn't list the hydraulic hoses on VPParts.
THere are other schematics for those. later pump version: www.volvopentastore.com/Trim-Pump-Later-Version/dm/cart_id.841050792--session_id.385062888--store_id.366--view_id.789361
Hi, are these the parts from Bill Lawrence? Great video. Do you need sealer on the threads for the service caps, and new o ring where the lines go in the cylinders.? Thanks
Hello, I took my trim cylinders off and are going to have them rebuilt. I wish to make the outdrive go up another 2.5 inches. I believe the cylinders have trim limit spacers in them. For every inch of trim limit spacer removal, what is the translation to outdrive height. I have a DP-SM. thx
If you watched the video, you can see the trim limit spacer in it. That whole spacer is not a whole lot longer than 3". I don't know the exact angle of my rams when in the extended position, but I'd hazard a guess that it's less than 45 degrees, so at the ram attachment point, even if you took the entire spacer out, the ram attachment point is probably not going to be 2.5" higher from a level plane. I'm not sure what part of the drive you want to be 2.5" higher but I'd guess the lower skeg? My suggestion is to remove the shaft between the rams and the drive. Prop the drive up to where you'd like it to be able to go, and then measure the distance between the 2 shafts that the ram attaches to. When you disassemble the rams, you can then easily measure how much you need to remove from the spacer to allow the ram to get to the length it needs to be - if it's even possible at all.
I Bought the RK-5197 kit from Volvo, it was the same kit used in this video, but it also came with 8 small o-rings. I assume they are use in some way with the Springs and check balls ? Someone please confirm and advise where they go as My stock cylinders only have Springs, plungers and check balls. I do not see any tiny o-rings used in my assemblies
You can bleed them on the bench before installing. In fact, I did another set of these and bled them on the bench and it worked much better. Start by pushing the piston almost off of the way in before installing the cap. Then fill the cylinder with fluid and then install the cap. Then connect lines to the cylinder and run them into a bucket/container filled with fluid and manually pump the ram back and forth until no bubbles are coming out of the lines. Then install the rams in the boat. There will be virtually no air in the cylinders.
Chris, thank you for the very helpful video. My question is this. My Seloc repair manual for my 2005 Volvo Penta SX-M outdrive states that after installing a new or rebuilt trim cylinder, I should fill it with hydraulic fluid if it wasn't pre-filled PRIOR to the self-bleeding process. However, I haven't seen any video stating that this is necessary. If not...great! If it is, how in the heck to I get fluid into the trim cylinders? The only way that I would guess that it could be done would be to compress the cylinder as much as possible. submerge the two openings for the lines into a container of hydraulic fluid, and pull out the rod to draw the fluid into the cylinder. What is your recommendations?
The way I've primed cylinders the last time I rebuilt them was that I connected hoses to each of the ports and routed them to a container filled with ATF fluid and then I worked the cylinder rod back and forth, tipping the cylinder appropriately to get the air pockets out of the cylinders. Good luck!
I am wondering if you have the model number to your pin wrench. I wanted to order the same one but there seems to be a few different kinds with different pin sizes.
I have the hydraulic lines leaking on the right side of the hydraulic oil reservoir. The plate cover with the hydraulic lines is leaking a white substance. I take it water for in. Now the trim tilt does not go up or down. Can you tell me what i can do please. I have the same out drive.
No, but I've been thinking about making another video showing how I bleed them. I've found much more success bleeding them in the shop before installing than when I tried to do it on the boat.
I could not find the spec anywhere so I just gave it a pretty good push. The threads are substantial, so I think it's unlikely you'd accidentally over tighten it to the point of a problem.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts Thanks Chris. Just received the new seals from volvopentaparts@hotmail.com. The quality is great and they answered all my questions fast. Your video helped a lot too! Thanks again.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts The new seals have held up great all summer long, but one concern is they are squealing pretty good when trimming either up or down near the lower half of the trim position. Did you have any issues like that? I confirmed it's not the pivot points where the rams connect to the drive unit.
Sorry, I didn't have a kit number, just the seller. There are plenty of kits that mimic the OEM design from 5-star and others, but this was the only one that had the poly seals that I found.
I meant support the lower unit and leave the stationary side of cyclinders attached to the boat. Leaving the bottom of cyclinders attached and hoses still attached
@@Alexa-sk3pn Oh, I understand what you're poking at now. Well you could try to get the pistons out while the cylinders are attached to the drive, but you will have limited access with the pin wrench and you may have a difficult time getting the piston out with the cylinder wobbling around, but if your lower/inner piston mounting shaft is seized (as mine was before the rebuild), then it might be a better option. If you try it and it works out well, please report back!
@@SlideruleRacingProducts This is excatly what i have to do with mine as the bottom pin that holds both of the rams in place is seized pretty good. Let me know how it goes as I will tackling this project in May 2020
Five star marine sells a very similar kit on ebay with the seals that are designed like the original. I recently rebuilt another set of rams and could not find the same kit I used before, so I used the kit from Five star and the process is nearly identical except for the 3 piece seal vs 1 piece seal. Maybe I should do another video with their kit and how I primed the cylinders to purge all air...
It was on ebay from volvopentasupplies. No p/n. Not sure if he is still selling, but you can get OEM style seals from fivestarmarine ? (I think that's their store) and I've used those as well. Essentially the same process.
Well, actually, I spoke to it in the Outdrive rebuild video I made, but here you go: 1. Remove plastic caps with screwdriver. If you aren't careful, you will break the plastic tabs! 2. Use small screwdriver to pry out 4 e-clips 3. Remove hoses from back of cylinders 4. Support Outdrive. 5. Remove shafts.. If your shafts are seized (mine were), then you're in for a bad day. I had to remove the entire transom mount so that I could press the seized shaft out with my press, heat and penetrating oil. Honestly though, if you can't figure this out without a passive aggressive comment to get a simple guide, you probably aren't going to be very successful rebuilding the cylinders. Good luck!
@@SlideruleRacingProducts What you should be doing is referencing your other video that shows this in the comments you assign to the video. I get impatient with folks who can't link to other important info. That's what the Internet is all about. So, yeah, I get impatient, but, hey, you provided it now, along with your own snide remark. Thanks.
