A better way to do window casing & trims ~ Using Kreg Pocket Jig for joints that’s never gap 

Hello from Tuesday, December 12, 2023. 912k subs. LETS GO 1 million!!! These vids are always worth rewatching.

I just found the Perkins Brothers' channel late in 2020. Even their earlier videos are excellent, but it's amazing to see how much more skilled they've become putting them together since. This video made me sad...to see all his fingers intact. Such a tragedy, but inspiring to see him after the accident being totally his buoyant, upbeat self. No self pity, and as skilled and productive as ever!

Tom Silva has influenced a whole generation of fine home builders. Even electricians have learned valuable lessons from Tom and TOH. Great video!!!

Very nice job young man, your trim work is top notch, I'm a old carpenter of 45+ yrs and do mine the same way, anytime you can pre-assemble and finish in the shop it turns out better, keep up the good work. thanks for posting 👍👍

Here’s another tip…when ripping the window frame boards, first put the bevel angle of the table saw blade at 10 degrees prior to cutting. This will allow the window frame you’re assembling to sit against the window unencumbered by caulk, foam and other debris.

I rip my jams with a 3 degree bevel. Makes a tighter joint against the window and I also screw my jams together. Moving them around just pinned the joints will loosen up.

I'm a complete novice. I trimmed my first window tonight and used the technique described here. It turned out fantastic! Thanks Perkins Builder Brothers!

I've been watching This Old House for many, many years. I'm not in the trades but I have learned lots of useful tips for work around the house. Thanks for giving them credit.

Tom Silva. You did it right. I love your 3 4 5 method....

Nailed it...great job, been watching you guys for the past month or so and have learned a lot. Keep up the great work, and merry Christmas

Looks really nice. Try hooking up the vacuum attachment to the Kreg Jig so the saw dust stays out of the way. It’s helps when your doing a bunch of holes like that.

I just love these brothers THANK YOU.

Seeing this more and more often. I'll be trying it on the next window I trim!

This is a five star video! You guys are top notch! Much respect to you guys.

Nice job! Been doing construction for 40 years. Just started doing prefab trims myself. Picked up a couple of pointers from you as well. Thanks for sharing.

Great video, not loaded with a bunch of crap, like what you had for lunch and your favorite music selection. Basic, too the point. Thanks

This was the most helpful trim video I've found! I've done four windows exactly as you described, and they have all turned out great!

Thanks so much... I'm using your technique this week... love the step by step!! Blessings

I love the shout out to Tom Silva. Keep up the great work.

Been watching for a while I’m a A young general contractor, and I hope to do my own trimwork someday. I have started to do more custom stuff. So seeing all of this has been really helpful. Also this was by far your most detailed video, but it wasn’t overly detailed it was just the right amount information gone through fast.

Awesome joint! Holy smokes. Great trick I’m gonna add this to my arsenal. When Ive run into that I’ll check out some traditional Japanese joints and if I don’t think I can’t chisel it out I’ll go the lazy way and toenail

Your work always amazes me. Not just the quality of the result and the amazing places you work but also because you always seem so chilled out . Great to watch and truly admirable. Cheers

That place is gorgeous. Way to nail it guys

Height & sheathing, thank you Jamie. It was strange watching an older video before the accident.

Thanks so much for this video. Fabulous work and really well explained. We are building our own tiny house at the moment so your video has been very informative.

Nice little time saver. Way more control over finishes. I like it.

Those TOH guys are crafty, great stuff!

I love it!! Thanks guys. I bet it took some time to get this clip ready. Again, thank you.

These are the reasons I love watching this channel 👍🏽

Great tutorial. Getting ready to start a huge interior tim job on a log home and was wanting to prefab trim pieces as much as possible. Using my Kreg jig is a perfect idea!! Thanks! BTW, we do a lot staining and keep a five gallon bucket half full of water to soak the stain rags in before throwing them away.

Thanks for giving credit to Tom Sylvia. He is truly a master in construction. I have learned so much from watching him.

1st gear for a half hour. You. Work is nice, love your talent and God bless you both

As always, thank you guys for the great content you put out there! Super informative!

Looks really good, thanks for sharing and looking forward to more of your videos

Gave Tom Silva his props.

I pre-fabricated my trim since 1978, before a Kreg jig was ever thought of. We used a variety of methods, including corrugated nails, staple guns, and gussets (pin nailed to the back side) to get them to the job. Pre-fab is not new, just the jig. We also pre-fab walls with siding, trim, windows, porches, and soffits already finished, and use wall jacks to stand up the walls. Ready for the painter.

Hey guys, looks like the trim came out nicely. I have been preassembling my trim on a table for a few years now. One thing I would recommend is also gluing the joints of the extension jamb. The trim nails don’t help much for wood shrinkage, and keeping the joints tight. But overall your installation looks clean and tight. Keep up the good work.

👍 Keep these very informative,enjoyable videos coming. Thanks.

That is actually so good , those triangle windows 👌👌👌 good stuff

Awesome job once again y'all! We use the heck out of the kreg jigs also. The only differences from what I can tell is we do a slight bevel on our jambs up against the Windows. We use this detail on any of our own built jambs or colums up against walls. That bevel makes all the difference if something isn't quite perfect and also makes shaving a bit of material off if needed a lot easier. On larger windows and doors, we screw and plug as well, and we always cut returns on our more visible exposed end grains like those there at the header so they aren't.....well.... Exposed. Lol. This is also alot more time consuming. Especially on these homes with window walls and 42 doors and whatnot. Y'all have a nice looking build going on there though. I have always preferred "mountain" style custom builds. Thanks for the content! Take care 🍻

Very educational. And the narration was great!

I'd like to see this done when running into proud drywall, or shy drywall. Thanks. Keep it up!

I just am completing a trim job on a remodel of a house that was built somewhat in stages over the years. The jamb widths were not at all consistent ranging from 4 9/16 to 8 7/8 (where another 2x4 wall was built next to another to add strength for a staircase addition during construction). As the job called for MDF trim I decided to use 3/4" MDF sheets and ripped them to width with an Accucut setup, as the sheets are heavy, I had made a similar table setup, and I was working alone and found it easier. Also because the rough openings were not always very level or square I used the windows themselves which were newly installed and level and plumb as my base measurements leaving a 3/4" reveal all round on the window itself. I set shims on the sill to level them to the window at the right height. I set up shop in the garage of the home which was away from all the activity going on in like painting and such keeping the MDF dust out of the main work area. I Kregged the jamb boxes together instead of pin nailing because MDF is so soft and moving the larger ones alone would have been a disaster and screwing them together made them much stronger. If an opening had obvious problems such as proud drywall or out of plane to the wall I took the parts and scribed them before assembly. At this point I have to say that while using no reveal might be a rookie move I am a pro with years of experience and am bored with 1/4" reveal I, along with going over it with the owner (an experienced contractor) and making a sample up, found that no reveal can be accomplished quite easily with this method. If there was any discrepancy it was simple to sand it out and add the 1/16" round over after doing so. I also ran the side casings so that there is a vertical butt joint at the head and sill instead of what you did. This makes the joint more visible due to the round overs but in effect it adds some style I feel and the owner liked it. What I liked was that there are no end grains visible, not that MDF has grain..., but it created a nice clean look overall. There were 8 pass through openings and I followed the same procedure for them albeit without sills of course and casing both sides. They were not as strong so I assembled them on the floor close by the openings. On the pre-jambed doors I did the same thing but had to use reveal on the hinge sides. So rookie move maybe to flush the casing to the jamb but the painter commented on how easy it made it for him overall while achieving a look that is not the norm and fit the overall style the contractor wanted to achieve.

I been doing trim for 50+ yrs and I started doing such 13 yrs ago and I agree with you as to which gives a better quality work though, improvement (s) r to pre-stain/paint end grain prior to gluing and screwing.

Hey Jamie. Watched the house building series bfor I found this, so sorry about yor accident. It didn't slow u down a bit! Stay healthy.

One of the best videos

Great video! Great tips! Great job!

Mind blown on the frame jig. lol

Nicely done Jaime! And thank you Eric for letting Jaime talk! 😅

Cool tip about the course screws on soft wood

Jamie, your edging Norm Abram / Tom Silva skill level ! good job

thanks for sharing the ideas.

Oh yea the stain rags most def catch on fire 🔥 lol learned that the hard way a long time ago.

Nice demonstration. I like those heavy horses.

Thanks for the great videos and all the helpful tips

Good video guys! Doesn't look to hard and I'm sure it's a time saver.

You guys make the best videos, thanx

Hello fellow content maker! Thanks for explaining every step! I'll be doing this at a cabin I'm building and documenting on my channel this summer. Subscribed! Looking forward to watching more helpful videos!

Looks great... That's exactly how I do it as well

Love the proficiency 💪🏻👍🏻☘️☘️

Great video, looks amazing 👍

Gracias por enseñar tus conocimientos y fuerza amigo!

Very nicely done.

That’s a cool shot with Jaime in his camo shorts and his side way look

Shout out to Tom👍👍👍from this old house 🏠

I like the safety you guys use scaffolding and stuff while you're framing houses and all kind of carpentry lot of contractors don't do that

Great explanation appreciate your expertise.

Solid video guys. Well done. If I may, the only thing I can think of to add is that if the frames were being made for the exterior of a home, then it is important to seal all 6 sides of the frame. I started as a painter and learned early on that sealing all sides makes for a finish that lasts MUCH longer and also can be refinished much easier.

Dude, job well done & excellent video ! 👊

I always make my liners the same size as my windows not the rough opening, for two reasons. Firstly, the inside corners will line up with the weld on a vinyl window and secondly if you have access to the window order sheet then you don't have to measure a thing, just use manufacturers list. I enjoy all your videos and think you've got some of the best content on RU-vid in your space. Well done!

Great video!! And great tips my man thanks

Very informative video. Thanks

Great video! Would love to see a short video on those sweet shop saw horses!

Knock the fuzzies off the difference in a carpenter and a master carpenter, eye for small details separates the men from the boys.

Great information! And, you sealed the planks well. However, once you cut the wood, these area are now UNSEALED!

Great videos I love the knowledge

Thanks for sharing!

Heck yeah, great video.

This guy is adorable!

Merry Christmas Everyone 🎄

Many years ago I used a similar method to put face trim on an octagon window in my living room. I glued and pinned the eight pieces on the floor, forming an octagon ring about 4 ft across. The window was about 16 ft up and the tricky part was where to place the ladder (yeah, no scaffolding!) to access all of it for nailing. The solution? Turn the trim ring upside down and place the ladder in the middle of it leaning against the middle of the window. Then picking up the trim I carefully climbed the ladder. It fit perfectly and finished a job I had put off for months.

Loved the use of 1/2" bar stock to extend the reach of your quick clamp! New to the channel keep up the good work! Thanks,

Well done.

That craftsman style is a nice look. I also slightly bevel the window side of the jamb. 3/5°. Also it's a nicer look to vary the thickness. Use 3/4 for head and foot, and 1/2× for the legs. Or, 5/4 and 3/4.

Nicely done. You might consider using a tablet block to set the trim to the window liner

Great minds think alike-I build trim like this in 1987 for my grandma’s basement. But I built the boxes out of 3/4 plywood because they were about 14” deep. Could only fit 3 boxes at a time in my 1978 Corolla…😳. Wish I had pics of the finished work but there were no digital cameras back then..

Great video. I guess all my elementary school teachers were wrong we never went to the metric system....though this would be easier

Good job!!!

I would love to see how you assemble a mitered trim onto your casing!

11:58 Very important piece of info. My dad told me a story of leaving a rag with stain on it in a plastic bag on the dryer after doing some project. Noticed it smoking, grabbed it and tossed it in the outdoor fire pit just as it burst into flames. Spontaneous combustion is no joke. Lay them out flat on concrete or some other non-flammable surface so the heat can dissipate as it dries and not build up enough heat to reach combustion temperatures.

Good stuff. Thankful!

I use five quarter at the top of window and router out ,, so that it slides over side pieces, to allow for movement and looks tight..

How i do it too, except instead of the end grain showing on your header piece on stain grade (absorbs stain much more than face) i usually just do a miter return towards the wall and glue and 23ga pin it so the stain then matches the face

is it me or does Jaime sound like Fix-It-Felix. love the videos keep them coming.

TWO clips of Jamie in Crocs in the intro?!? We're too lucky.

Very good,, The top of the window jamb is technically called the (head) and the bottom is called the (sill) & of course the left side and right side jambs. I am a retired carpenter of 40 years. I really like this young man. Nice job!!

So I've watched the tour of your shop, love it. But I'm noticing some custom built drying racks in the background? Any chance you could talk about that? maybe some custom woodworking tips? Best ways to buy bulk rough cut lumber and how to dry them etc, maybe moisture meters ? Keep it up guys love the channel!

I use a 18 ga crown stapler to assemble my jambs. Then I install the jambs and shim it to the framing so the reveal looks good on the window and then put my casing on. The only issue if they aren't shimmed would be if they installed blinds and had long screws that grabbed framing. Your way is a lot more efficient and easier though. Nice work!

You make replacing the window trim look very doable. My husband and I are looking to change out the wood in our house from oak to alder and I came across your video. I have a couple of questions, when you nail the finished window in place how do you space the nails and what size nails do you use, and in what order do you do this? The second question I have is regarding the large square and triangular windows in the A Frame area of the house; do you miter those corners or square them off?

Good video