A NOTE ON FLOWHOOD USAGE: You will see me inoculating in front of my flowhood in the video. If you have one, by all means use it for your inoculations, no reason not to. A flowhood will always reduce contamination risk. That being said, this method can be done just on a table in a clean room using normal sterile procedures (gloves, sanitize with isopropyl, etc.) and you will still have very high success rates, typically above 95% even without a hood. Myself and others have tested this, even expanding the bags out to a third generation of spawn with Shiitake and Oyster strains and still stayed above 95% clean spawn.
Is it really necessary to seal the bags prior to pasteurization if you are going to incoculate that same day? Can you just fold the bags and place in the clean sterlite? Your videos are some of my favorites on youtube.
Thanks, I'm glad you are finding the videos helpful 👍 I've talked to people who have just folded and clipped the bags and it's worked fine for them. Probably don't need to be too anal about it unless you start adding supplements.
I am planning to inoculate A. Muscaria in pasturized Pine sawdust jars this weekend. Have you culivated this Legend before? If you have, would you have any tips for an intermediate cultivator's first attempt at a wood loving species? I chose Pine, because this species prefers Conifer forests to form their fairy rings, and I am hoping that they will thrive just as well in my monotub with Pine shavings and chips just as well as they do outside in their natural environment. Does that sound about right? To innoculate onto sawdust and colonize onto anaerobically fermented Pine shavings chips and dust? Any tips or suggestions are appreciated... Tia
Sounds like a good initial experiment to me. I always find them around spruce trees in my area. You may need a casing layer over your sub for best results.
Dumb question(s): At what point do you open that little square patch on the bag you mentioned being important for air exchange? Also, if im going to try to grow mushrooms in my woods, at what point would i move these bags there? Thank you!
You don't have to do anything with the filter patch, it just sits there and does it's thing. The white material is permeable enough to allow air exchange, but keep contamination out. As far as inoculating trees in your woods, you really have to decide which species of mushroom you would like to grow and go from there. Each species has it's own habitat and substrate preferences. Species choice also determine inoculation method and timing.
I was kind of hoping to use a method other than inoculating trees. I was just thinking I could take advantage of the humidity there (there's a creek out there too). Do I have another option other than inoculating trees? I'm clueless, so I don't know what happens after the steps you show in this video. Thank you again!
@@BC-iu1bk If you don't want to use trees/logs/stumps etc. Your best bet is wood chip beds. If you have a source of free hardwood chips like a municipal dump area or a tree company you could start with winecap stropharia. You can also try burying sawdust blocks in conducive locations but again it's very species dependent in terms of choosing the best method.
How is this any different than just spawning your spawn to bulk substrate? I mean, the sawdust is basically the same as bulk substrate right? You're giving the mycelium more substrate to grow on but it's still going off whatever nutrients were in the original spawn, isn't it? So will these reproduced spawn bags be almost as effective at colonizing bulk substrate as the master spawn?
This is just a little different because you're spawning sterilized sawdust to pasteurized sawdust. So you're taking a low nutrient spawn to a low nutrient substrate. This wouldn't be as effective for creating fruiting blocks for species that benefit from higher nutrient substrates because your yields would be much lower. For fruiting blocks you would want to go grain to sawdust because the added nutrients boost your yields, especially when you're using pasteurized HWFP with light or no supplementation like I usually am.
@@RenegadeMushrooms Interesting. Do you know where I can a breakdown of how much different species or general varieties of mushroom need supplementation? This is the first time I'm hearing about species specific nutrient needs like this
Nah, unfortunately they just fizzled out. Probably too dry plus I have an insane population of composting worms in my gardens that seem to love eating my mycelium if I don't protect my blocks. Wrapping the blocks in window screen seems to keep them out, so I will try that next time.
This is my first year actually inoculating logs with spawn. I have been learning for the last few years but have not had access to the logs until this year. I have a question about types of hardwood pellets. I can buy Superior brand hardwood heating pellets for $6/40lbs. from Fleet Farm in Wisconsin ,they don't list what type of wood, just that it is hardwood. I could also buy Smoke house brand on closeout 50/50 Hickory and Oak $6/40lbs. Or 20lb bags of Bear Mountain smoke house 100% Oak for $15. I want to try Shiitake and Chestnut so I was looking for Oak. Would it really matter? Also I see a lot of people talking about adding Gypsum to the mix. Does it help or not in your opinion?
Gypsum does not seem to make much of a difference. I wouldn't bother buying it if you don't already have it. Any of those pellets will probably work fine. I personally use the smoker pellets now just because I like knowing what wood type I'm using. They are a bit more expensive though. Oak seems to work well for just about everything.
@@RenegadeMushrooms Would the oak and Hickory blend be good then? $6/40lb is a good price and it's on closeout, 20 bags left. I was wondering about the Hickory being bad maybe. On the Field and Forest tree species chart I don't see it being compatible with any mushroom type. If I would go with the 50/50 Oak and Hickory how many bags would you buy? I have 20 acres of Maple in northern Wisconsin and am planning on getting into this. Retired and relocating up there soon.
@@dellamb6620 I've used maple hickory cherry blend and it worked fine so I don't think hickory is a deal breaker if using for spawn. I would think oak/hickory would work fine for spawn.
I'm wondering what you would suggest if we had access to the original grain spawn. It seems like a hassle (and more wait time) to do a grain 2 grain transfer and then inoculate multiple bags of hardwood substrate compared to your method of splitting up the hardwood spawn into multiple bags. Any reason we should even consider a g2g transfer? And thanks for all the awesome videos!
In that situation I would go grain to sawdust, and then use that sawdust master bag to make a second generation of three spawn bags. I never do grain to grain personally, I just use LC to make grain masters and go right to sawdust.
This is a ridiculous comment. Mass is mass, volume is volume, temperature is temperature, no matter what unit of measure one uses. Accuracy has nothing to do with UOM. That being said, I am an American who grew up with Imperial, but since my laboratory days I do prefer metric just due to the ease of use and logical divisions. America was planned to be on the metric system - in 1793 Thomas Jefferson sent for Joseph Dombey to bring a reference standard 1kg weight from France. On the way to America, the ship Dombey was on got blown off course by a storm and ended up in the Caribbean. Then pirates (British privateers, to be exact) took Dombey prisoner in order to ransom him off. Poor guy died in captivity, and the 1kg standard weight was auctioned off with the rest of the ships contents. It actually ended up in the hands of an American, Andrew Ellicott, and was passed down through his family. In 1952 one of his descendants gave it to the precursor of NIST. So, we can partially blame the damn Brits for the lack of metric system here. Mostly, it's just the stubbornness of us Americans though.
@@themyceliumnetwork No, you just weigh in whatever unit is called for, no conversion necessary. If you want accuracy, you will always need a very expensive scale with NIST calibration certificate. Most of you have scales that are not very accurate, unless they come with a Certificate of Calibration traceable to NIST. ( edited to add that such a level of accuracy is absolutely NOT necessary when growing fungi. Keep it simple!)
Just a quick question... You mention performing a second shake could introduce contamination. Can you tell me how this could happen? They're in sealed bags so I'm a little confused.
Sealed substrate bags, even ones that are sterilized at 15 psi aren't completely devoid of life. Some bacterial endospores survive the process in a weakened state. The higher the nutrient content of the bag, the more likely they are to germinate before your mycelium takes hold. Shaking highly supplemented bags weakens the mycelium, and can allow the bacteria to take hold before the mycelium recovers. As cultivators, we work in the realm of "sterile enough".
Yes, that should work because the colonized substrate in the kit should be sterile. I'm not sure what they weight, but you will want to add around 1.5 lbs. of colonized substrate from your kit to your new bag.
@@RenegadeMushrooms if space is an issue is there any reason to not make smaller bags? I realize they will produce fewer mushrooms but is there a point where they aren't going to produce? Say something that's about a gallon ziplock baggie size.
@@opinionatedtatertot815 No smaller bags and containers are fine. I have videos on my channel showing small container grows. As you mentioned, yields will decrease accordingly but no reason you can't do it. They do make small filter patch bags as well.
@@RenegadeMushrooms awesome. My grow space is limited to a 3 level shelf thats 12x18ish that I use for seed starting. So between seasons I can use it for mushrooms.
@@RenegadeMushrooms I'm curious - at what point would you recommend not using your pasteurization tek but going to sterilization? For example, would you sterilize when first going grain to sawdust? or when making fruiting blocks instead of expanding spawn? The pasteurization tek seems really good for those of us without a flow hood.
@@MosesMLam Grain always has to be sterilized of course, but with substrate you have options. Pasteurization is great for people just getting started that don't have a lot of equipment yet (flowhood, pressure cooker, etc.). My in-bag pasteurization method has a high success rate even without a flowhood. Plus, it's a relatively simple process, and also takes a lot less time and energy compared to sterilization. The trade-off is your yields will be a bit lower, but this is negligible for someone just growing for personal consumption. I generally recommend pasteurization until you can afford to build or buy an atmospheric steam sterilizer or something similar. Trying to sterilize high nutrient substrates in small pressure cookers isn't worth the effort in my opinion.
You can, but colonization is slow. LC to grain to substrate is far more effective. The grain greatly speeds up colonization and also adds a lot of nutrients to your finished block, which increases your yields.
@@RenegadeMushrooms Thanks a bunch! I have been on quite a journey and have learned a ton from your videos! I just started in February with grow kits from North Spore. Way to expensive! But your videos have explained everything I need to now to grow from scratch! Next step for me is to make grain spawn jars! Thanks a bunch for replying!
@@chrischambliss6427 No, I don't. Maybe some day. I mostly buy syringes from Mycelium Emporium, Fresh Fungi on Etsy, and Everything Mushrooms. For Cordyceps you want Terrestrial Fungi or Appalachian Gold on Etsy.
This year was a bust, but I was trying a new method. A few years back I had great success with them using homemade grass compost so I'm going to try them again next year and hopefully make a video 👍
@@RenegadeMushrooms Why can't I just buy 1 commercial bag, and make unlimited generations forever? Is it only because of more and more contamination risk, or some other reason? Commercial suppliers make unlimited supplies, so why can't we?
@@NoOne-jy6mc Even commercial suppliers will go 3 or 4 generations before going back to a mother culture. Expanding in perpetuity isn't feasible because of senescence (genetic degradation) and contamination risk.
@@RenegadeMushrooms Can I make my own mother culture then for perpetuity? Without having to rebuy anything. By diluting your own liquid culture every year into a new liquid. Or would I have to collect a speck from a live mushroom every year to make a mother culture liquid?