Ike nailed it. This can be a sand rail and a pavement dragster all in one. I'd really love to see times compared for each. Please let that be the reality of what happens.
Eaton M24 supercharger would work on the new machine. 😉 ..Ideally suited, actually. Imagine how THAT will sound? The 998 from the Mini Cooper, can use an M24.
So cool to see that old Opel GT! My mom had one when I was a kid. Dad sold it to a kid in the mid 80s that totaled it within a few weeks of buying it. Can't wait to see what is in store!
I was looking through the comments to see what that was... I've heard those are cool cars. I'm also excited Edit: I spy with my little eye that it has miata wheels
I can’t believe I get to witness y’all build another rail I’ve been a subscriber since before the first rail and it’s amazing how far y’all have came keep the awsome content coming!
@@JohnGalt-vr3lx They make a shifter just for this bike, if it lasts 1 run it did its job. Race, Rebuild, Repeat, and with these kids it will most likely last a few years.
Hope you have a special building, separate, and a distance from all other buildings on your property, to store all that fuel. I'd put a sturdy shed up, and make it your fuel station... In the event of a fire, you don't want to lose everything.....
A 1-piece hoop behind the seat,and the wedges down beside it need to connect to a hoop in front of the steering wheel for a 'safety cage',along with a U,or X over the seat to the bar in front.With the speeds you'll get on pavement,I think tracks will require such at minimum.Great start guys!
I love the direction you are going. I built a sand rail from scratch usind a CBR 1000rr back in 2009. I rode it until 2021 and sold it to get a turbo razor. It was a very fun project and it was very strong and fast. I miss it but love my razor. Can't wait until you finish this project and i get to see it on the sand ripping.
Your doing the right thing by starting fresh, but use your tube bender more and try and cut down on the amount of welding, also look at some pro drag rails for some inspiration regarding the driver safety cell.
This Old Man from Washington NC always enjoying your videos especially on this rainy day. Going to really be nice when you complete it. Love you guys. 🛵🧔💝💝💝
Finally you guys are doing exactly what I've been suggesting every time you work on the drag rail to please put a motorcycle engine on the drag rail..... drag rail 2.0 just as good, let's go guys!!!!!
I would consider moving those gas drums outside to a covered lean to area, or the like. You don't want that much fuel anywhere near welding, cutting, grinding, sparking, running engines, etc. Thanks for the vids!
Nice 👍👍 Very glad to see you guys build a complete new frame. Hats off to the young person who built the original but We all want to see your original builds so much more. The 1st green dragsters is so cool. I love the old school 60's look. This new build will definitely be awesome. It'll be fine
Loving this idea guys. I think this thing is going to absolutely fly. Coming from a welder/fabricator for over 22 years, this is just an idea, but it's kind of looking like it's time to do a spring cleaning of the new shop. Seems like you guys are struggling for room in there with all the different projects you got going on. Lol From a fabricators perspective, projects seem to go sooooooooo much smoother when you have room to work and things are easily locatable. Just some food for thought as an outsider looking in. Keep up the great work guys. Excited to see where this thing goes. ;-) 👍👍👍
so cool of Sonoco, you should ask them to send you some feather flags too put around the track, sure they would love the exposure, and make the track more fun!
You guys are finally building what I'd suggested early on the original build of the 670 drag rail. A rear engine dragster and I do think it'll be good on dirt or dragstrip! I wish you luck and above all, Have FUN, be SAFE!
Kinda looks like an old-school Formula car if you'd put a wing on it. Which would also be sweet. A formula cart on dirt and asphalt. It's going to be scary fast with that engine.
Hey Guys, Great idea to start over on the frame and build another sand/track rail. I agree that you should leave it naturally aspirated. If it ain't broke, don't break it. Thanks for all the great content and we'll see you next time.
Love watching you guy, won’t stop. Love my ornament, stickers, and hat. But I’d love to see you guys stretch your wings, get out of your comfort level like you tried with the TrophyKart, and reach for the stars with this one. Think 12” travel sand rail that could destroy the dunes or at least Busco Beach. You can drop it, keeping caster straight through the travel, swap shocks with strut bars, and try it on asphalt. Shorter wheelbase boys. I say this cause you want to grow and this is how. And us, your audience, wants to see this on the channel more often than other “Terrain specific” projects. Love it and still watching.
I bought a really cool Golf Cart steering wheel for my go kart and the 3 bolt to 6 adapter to mount it and it is one of the BEST mods ever. $27, + $10 for the adapter,.. found it on AMZN. Much thicker, more comfortable, and better looking than that thin 3 bolt, and only 1" larger in diameter, 1/2" more leverage helps too, and slows down the action just a fraction, again making it more comfortable. Got the flat bottom style. Very cool.
I love the new rail build 🤙 rock on. I think you guys should try some simple fiberglass body parts on this machine once it’s built. A large nose cone to make it more aerodynamic and maybe rear fenders to keep the driver from being covered in sand. I hope you guys see this 👍
I'm proud of you guys persevering after the thefts and hacking. It would be too easy to get down in the dumps and have it reflect in your work, but you guys have kept a great attitude while keeping fun content rolling out!
Please read John Charles and Ike !!!! Great start to this build, please note with that heavy engine bouncing on dirt will bend or even break the chassis. It would be a really good idea to incorporate a 4 wheeler suspension on the front and something more pressure relieving on the back so that it will glide over the dirt better. Just a suggestion but I think it will greatly help you accomplish your goals with this build. Build on !!!!!
Once again I love the build, and I love the idea of a drag/sandrail, the 955 triple should be a great engine as its reasonably torquey for a motorcycle engine, the only thing I would say is please move to Chromoly tube rather than mild steel, it has some spring to it, that's why all modern dragster chassis are built from it as are most NHRA certified cages.
CM is LIGHTER than mild steel because a thinner wall is allowed for the same diameter. Only reason it's used. Our boys are MIG welders, CM doesn't like that kind of heat. MIG welded CM will likely produce a weaker weld, and isn't allowed by any sanctioning body, regardless. Mild steel is gonna be probably fifteen/thirty pounds heavier in a chassis this size, but their welds will be both safe and legal. That said, the tubing diameter and thickness they've chosen for the upper/lower rails are both too small for any sanctioning body's rules..
@@zrxdoug very good point, I had not thought about CrMo requiring TIG process, and certainly lightness and the ability to use a thinner wall tube play a major part in the choice, however, I will hold to my point regarding the spring provided in a drag rail chassis, Type 4130 steel has a modulus of elasticity of 205 GPa (29700 ksi), which is higher than some high strength spring steels such a 9260 steel. This means that 4130 steel does not easily bend and can withstand large stresses and still return to its original form. A good alternative might be Docol R8 tube, it has a similar strength and weight as 4130 and a similar modulus of elasticity, it also has a much smaller HAZ (heat affected zone) meaning it can be TIG welded reliably, It can also be welded to other steel grades easily which could save on cost if you simply used it for the top and bottom rails which require spring.
@@GPMsEVproject In these lengths and at this weight, I'd expect any material to be pretty rigid...unless maybe they incorporate slipper tubes into the upper rails. Seems unlikely.. 😁
I’ve been a sub since before the other rail was built! And I can’t believe I get to see y’all build another one! This is an absolute treat and I wish y’all wellness and love! Keep the amazing content coming!
Y'all should think about doing some trail grooming at your place, your track seems to have a lotta whoopdees and drainage probs -- that's part of the fun too.
Definitely was a good idea of building a new chassis , the go kart frame was old and beat and not in the best condition ,way too dangerous for that kind of power. This thing is looking legit and I can’t wait to see it when it’s done and running great video guys..👍🏼🤩❤️
On a future project, I'd like to see a roll cage built around the seat like a capsule which is on adjustable rails (like the rails under a car seat). You would never have to worry about fitting different sized drivers in it. The seat and personal protective cage would all be adjustable with the steering wheel and controls stationary.
Bring to top bars down enough to bend into a U shape and that sit a few inches above the header. It will be a place to mount the harness, help with strength of motor mounts and also connect the motor more to the entire chassis. Use the 2nd angle tube idea to achieve the shoulder height bar and hoop needed
Good idea to wait for Ike because you want your top cross rail behind the seat to be the correct height for your shoulder belt/harness attachment points --probably a good idea to go fully enclosed cockpit, you wanna try to keep your body parts inside at 100mph
Great job guys. Like the content. But if it was me I'd go with a wide platform to aid with stability a lot especially with the amount of power you'll be using. Its going to help with anything you end up using the machine doing.
This is perfect I hope you guys take your time make sure you got plenty of room for yourself you're comfortable know Jack shafts straight power from motor to with a beefy I want to see wheelies it half track let's go 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Here's one thing you need to consider, a rail, "Sand or Strip" needs a narrow front axle with wheel caster/camber steering set to force the arrow straight down the track. also, think about steering speed, "slower response prevents oversteer." More Power 2 Ya!
You could make a 2 or 3 part video on getting the cart back together. Put a Predator 420 on it. Pull EVERYTHING off the frame itself, go over the whole thing's joints with a welder to get fresh welds on it all. then start adding stuff back on once you put the engine in the back and get it in place. Could probably shorten down the top part of the cage several inches, and move the rear axle all the way to the back for better wheel spacing and stability.
That hinkley speed tripple doesn't need a boom tube.... just open collector like it is... thats how my bike was when it ran, and it was AWESOME loud... it got me the finger saying it was #1 several times still wish I had that motor for my bike
Great progress nice to see both parts of the original cart being used separately, I would use a larger tube size for the lower rails since you are going to have so much power it would really stiffen this thing up and make it perform more consistently along with being safer.
well you guys almost took my idea. I said to put the motor in the drag rail. But what the heck just build a sand rail. This is going to be cool to watch. Just glad you got away from trying to fix that death trap that kid built.
Yesss!, I have been hoping for a mid engined drag rail build since you built the shop, and to have a Triumph engine will be cool but might be a little troublesome. but overall i hope the build really does go well
Spin the engine around and hang it off the back, behind the axle. Use a couple of idler pulleys to reverse the chain drive direction like you did with the fat tyre push bike, and also provide tension adjustment.
One thought. Keep all the crossbar tubes one length. This will simplify your build and still look good. It also gives your front axle a slightly wider base and the very small increase in weight is not a problem...in fact, just the opposite.
