I have to wonder if the original pump produces enough pressure to route the oil through the filter with enough volume.. The filter is essentially a restriction for what is originally a minimal oiling system. I've left my 66 TR6R stock and it's still running after all of these years with no bottom end service.
Hello Derick. A great video. I'm just starting to take the year to clean up and work my own 79 T140E. Might I ask? How did you achieve your currently leak-free gasket surfaces? Thanks, Brian
If you are talking about the oil in frame filter sump plate. I stuck a sheet of medium sand paper to a flat work surface and spent about 1/2 an hour rubbing sump plate mating surface until it was flat. I put all the gaskets and internal oil filter back using silicone gadget, then waited until the silicone had set before refilling the bike with oil. If you join the Facebook Group "Triumph 650 & 750 Twins OIF" and search through my posts you will see pictures of me doing the sump plate. facebook.com/groups/315323709546199
@@relph3 I cut my own gaskets from 1/32" (0.8mm) gasket paper, and fit them with just a smear of grease. Never had a leak, and all it takes to clean the surfaces is a wipe with a rag.
Hi Derick, Another interesting modification nicely presented. My bike is a 81 model and only a week or so ago I bought the same filter holder. I like your pipe routing. I'm thinking of using steel braided 10mm hoses. Did you keep the Top hat or Charlies filter in the sump ? Dave
Yes I have kept original filter in the sump. I probably could remove it but that would mean disturbing the currently leak free gasket surfaces. I cleaned it all out about 9 months ago.
Sorry but that is a very very bad idea. It was correct on the return line before. Now you will create a massive problem and may distroy the engine by doing that. Its very bad enginering practice and do hope no one tries to do this. Put a Charlies filter in the tank if you have, they work ok and are desined to do that. But please swap this back to how it was originaly.
Just to clarify you advocate having the filter on the pressurised side of the system that goes to the rockers and top of the frame/tank. The alternative would be from the base of the Frame/ Tank which is gravity fed and sucked into the engine ?
@@rorybeaumont All filters should be after the pump on the pressure side or tank retun line. Putting a filter on the inlet side will cause pump cavitation and may even collapese the lines. A gauze strainer on the inlet is fine and is all that is necessary. The bike is fitted with one already that just needs washing out.
@@rorybeaumont The Norton type spin on type oil filter MUST be connected to the return or pressure side from the pump. It is designed to do only that. It is not designed to work on the suction side of the pump as the pressure drop over that type of filter is pretty high and can result in immense low pressure cavitation issues occurring in the circuit, and even collapse flexible type hoses, especially at high engine speeds when you want the best oil flow over the bearings possible. . From Best Engineering practice, only a strainer free flow type filter should be fitted to the suction side of any pump. I believe some people us a Charlies type filter in the bottom of the oil column, but I would not recommend even that. You only need one oil filter of 10 to 15 microns in any circuit. Any others you include in the circuit are not doing anything other than restricting flow. I do hope you find this information of use.
Hi; I have a modified timing cover with the feed directly there like a car. In that system I had an external filter; on top of external filter mount have a device to screw the oil switch and the oil gauge line. Also have a N Hyde oil cooler plus a rotary pump. I put 10000km per year on these old bikes. I use it as transportation I am not a Sunday hopper...
