Triumph TR4 - Engine Rebuild #15: Head Installation | Roundtail Restoration 

Looking good. Thanks for taking time and effort to post the video. Looks like the garage is cold, we can see your breath. We don’t have that issue too often in Texas. Cheers

Chris the one bolt into the front sealing block was always a stud lock washer and nut. My father was the original owner of our TR4. Awesome job and video!

Looking good Chris!

You are making great progress, nice video.

Hi Chris. You're making great progress! Soon you'll have that engine running! You may have done it in an earlier video, but did you check the cylinder wall protrusion above the block? If memory serves, I think it was .003 inch. Is it the same with the more modern style of head gasket? Speaking of which, I have used shim steel head gaskets in the past (and thicker copper type once od twice, when a head had been skimmed too much to raise compression). I'm pleased to see the modern, improved type of head gasket you used. I agree it shouldn't need any sort of sealer. And I appreciate you pointing out the cylinder hold downs you rigged up. Those are important, to keep the cylinder liners from moving and breaking the seal at the figure 8 gasket underneath (which would allow coolant into the crankcase 😮). Regarding the post for the timing chain tensioner... it looks to me like the new replacement needs an extra washer behind it to properly fit the tensioner spring. That would also prevent it from bottoming out and stripping the threads, as you had happen. (The new replacement appears to be machined a little incorrectly and, if it were able to be threaded in tight, may make the tensioner spring run too close to the front engine plate.) FWIW, there are a number of options for the rocker assembly and cam followers. You used the "improved" cam followers (tappets) which appear to be nitrided and have the oil hole, which I think are better than originals. Some racers prefer to use a smaller diameter cam follower (.875"), which require a sleeve in the bore. Those can also be useful if the bores are badly worn, but they cost a lot more than the improved version you used, and a whole lot more than the original tappets. Ken Gillanders at British Frame and Engine sells the smaller diameter tappets and sleeves to use with them. When it comes to the rocker shaft, I'm glad to hear you are having it rebuilt with the upgraded shaft that is more wear resistant. Just double check that the oil passages are well aligned. Various places (BF&E, Good Parts) sell hardened shafts is someone is rebuilding the rocker assembly themselves. I plan to use roller rockers when I rebuild my TR4 engine. Mainly I want them because they make for less "clatter". But the also reduce valve and valve guides wear... and with a little less friction may be good for 1 or 2 more horsepower. 🙄 Rollers are available in various geometries ranging from very close to stock to a more aggressive lift for higher performance (though less roadworthy). Rollers stand a little taller than the originals, so will interfere with the original stamped tin valve cover. I use an alloy cover that avoid this problem. Alternatively, with the stock valve cover, stacking two of the cork gaskets will usually create enough clearance. Good Parts also offers improved pedestals that support the shaft at five points, rather than the stock three. BF&E sells solid spacers to replace the stock springs between the rocker arms. I really haven't decided whether I'll be using either of those "upgrades" (maybe the pedestals, probably not the spacers). Cheers! Thanks for this video and I look forward to your upcoming OD and differential videos.

Hi Chris, good to see the progress. I was at the same stage on my 4A engine last year, so a few comments. 1) not sure you mentioned the need for the cylinder liners to protrude a little above the top of the block... this is important, but spec may vary with the type of gasket, so was anything indicated with the one you used? I had a number of different figure-of-eight gaskets available, so was able to select the optimum, with protrusion being checked using a straight edge/feeler gauge and also DTI. I found some of the gaskets had a raised edge which influenced the measurement, so I lightly honed this to give more consistent flatness. I know some folk advocate fitting the head with a gasket, torque down, then remove and check the protrusion. Then fit a new gasket for final assembly 2) The machine shop I used for cylinder prep and head rebuild also prepare some high spec engines and they advised a procedure for the first start. I followed this, which was to torque the head to spec., and for the first start of the engine, run for twenty minutes at 2000rpm. Then allow to cool before repeating the torque procedure (single stud at a time, back off half turn, then tighten to spec). Although not in their procedure, I noted the position of each nut with a white marker before backing-off and re-tightening. It was interesting to see that all nuts showed some movement beyond their original position. I then ran the car on the road for 500miles using Break-in oil, before repeating the torque checks; again there was further movement of the nuts. This has given me confidence that I should not suffer from future head-gasket failure...(fingers crossed!) 3) I have experience with the timing chain tensioner rubbing on the cover so much that it has worn right through leading to a small oil leak. I now make sure that I inspect the cover carefully and examine the tension spring and remove any sharp edges (use an oil stone or other device able to work on the spring steel). The tensioner can also cause wear on the engine front plate... (I think this is visible on your engine). I have smoothed this out to be sure there is no lip which could restrict free movement of the spring. I think from the video, that you have already noticed that your pivot pin is bent (or the screw thread is off-axis). It might be worth you checking that the spring, as installed, lies parallel with the front plate and is not thrown off increasing the risk of rubbing against either cover or front plate.

The tensioner when you where putting it it looked like it was bent a bit, not sure if it makes a different but thought I would let you know

Chris.....maybe it's in another video. what did you use to clean the head/block ? for paint.

from what I have seen in my TR3 engines the trencher bolt/pin has been penned over on the backside to keep them from backing out.