Triumph TR4 - Engine Rebuild #16: Oil Filter Conversion (and More) | Roundtail Restoration 

Not on this one. The Spitfire was to see if I could do it. This one I want a bit more creature comfort. If all goes to plan, I would like it as my daily driver during the season.

Thanks, Bill. Good idea!

I just put in a new pressure spring so have to adjust it

Don't disagree. But, the workshop manual only showed spring washers here, so I didn't put any flat washers. Of course, the original spring washer aren't as "aggressive", I don't think. Thanks!

Yes, I set the valve lash. I set the cam up per the manufacturer's instructions. I'm just trying to verify it. Find it hard to believe I'm not doing something wrong when two numbers come out fine and the other two done.

@@roundtailrestoration I figured that you had already done that... Could the data be without the lash? How much timing would the valve lash take up is a good question.

I don't know, but I don't think it would be the 20 or so degrees I'm looking at. But, you bring up a good point. Maybe I can measure from the pushrod side instead of the valve side. That would remove any lash concerns, I think.

Oooo, that's a new one on me. I'll have to look at my Caswell book to see what, if anything, it says about it. Thanks for the backup! Hopefully I don't have to go back and re-plate everything I've already done.

Thanks, Barry. I did use a depth mic to measure the hole and I should have enough room to not bottom it out. I didn't try it again, though (yet).

Chris what grade was the bolt? Looks like a 1 or 2. I believe the oe ones were grade 5, 3 little lines on the head. If the bolt was ok the hole may not be threaded completely and you may need a bottoming tap to finish threading.

@@davidplummer2477 it may have been. I'll check out my replacement to see what it is. Thanks, David

Thanks, Robert. Got it from True Value in their "pick a bolt" bins. I'm sure it's sourced in China. Good idea on the loc-tite. Something I should probably look into more anyway. Thanks for watching!

Hi Chris, I installed a spin-on filter adapter on my TR4 years ago and didn't have any problem with any of the bolts bottoming out. However, I used a different adapter that incorporates an additional spacer between the filter housing base and engine block with ports for oil cooler lines... so I had to use approx. 1 inch longer bolts. Assuming that is a blind hole where you are having problems, you might use a few blasts of compressed air to see if there is anything in the hole, causing the bolt to bottom out. Even oil or other liquids can cause problems like that. Once you're certain the hole is clear of any obstructions, you might shorten the bolt 1/8" or 1/4". Judging from when you removed the broken bit, you appear to have plenty of threads so that the bolt can be a little shorter. FWIW, I mostly used grade 8 bolts all over my TR4 (especially suspension, body mounting, etc.). Grade 5 in less critical areas. I think the "Chinesium" bolts in the bins at Lowes and Home Depot may be less than grade 5. You mentioned putting washers under your rocker pedestals... Are you doing that to fine tune for the rocker geometry and push rod length? What was wrong with the washers you received?

Thanks, Alan. I did measure the hole with a depth mic and I should have enough room for the 3" bolt so maybe it was just a piece of junk. As for the washers, Triumph originally used lock washers, then shifted over to flat washers at some point. My motor had (incorrectly) lock washers and they have lost their spring. I'm just looking to replace them with flats, but Moss has sent me ones that are the wrong size - twice now. Inventory problem where the part number is not lining up with their bin. Cheers!