Triumph TR4 - Stripping the Frame | Roundtail Restoration 

I am restoring a tr4a my self and I got to say that these videos are a really big help. Keep up the good work!!!

thanks Chris. just found you. we have an early 2 bought in 1967 that needs the full treatment. I watch Chef and Elin and EJH and now you. I learn something from all. And lots from the comments. John in Manitoba.

You seem much more comfortable with the mechanicals. Another interesting video. Thanks

Great Job Chris! These videos will be a great reference when you start assembly. We use digital cameras that are assigned to projects. Those images are downloaded into the clients files for reference and provenance. Normally between 1600 - 2000 images for a motorcycle restoration project. Go out and have a Deluxe weekend.

Looking good. I love watching hacks restore old cars. Well, certain hacks anyway. 😂

I hate when those springs jump loose and kill everybody......lol. They are extremely dangerous. Keep pluggin' Chris. God bless.

Good job Chris ,look for ward to seeing the progress,keep up the good work

Tip for removing the dust caps from the front hubs, you can run a self tapper through the hole in the middle and it’ll slide the cap right out. Some early ones even have a thread so they take a small enough bolt/set screw for the same purpose. Oh, and keep your felt oil seals from the hubs if you didn’t know that one already! Unless they’re completely destroyed then period ones are better than anything you can buy today. Modern ones are generally too thick (same applies to the Spitfire as they’re the same bearing set up).

Hi Chris, good to see your progress and very interesting to note the small changes in design detail between your 4 and my 4A. A thought about releasing the spring pan on disassembly; using your threaded rod method should mean that after it has been tightened and the spring compressed, there should be no vertical pressure on spring pan (so the six studs/bolts can be removed). At this point it may help to use the floor jack to help support the weight of the vertical link, wishbones etc. so the pan can stay in a more horizontal orientation as it is released.

Thanks for the video, ol' hack! 😂

My favourite part of the restoration is stripping everything off the chassis to get down to the bare frame. You have a few differences from my 62. I don’t have the big blocks on the rear springs. Your bump stop brackets are quite different as well…

That frame looks to be in very good condition! I agree that it's seen some regular service over the years, as easily as it appeared to come apart. For example, the A-arm bushings are often torn up, rusted in and fall apart during removal. Last frame I worked on, had to use a Dremel to split the bushing inner sleeve, before they would come off! The "British undercoating" (oil leaks) seems to have kept everything in good condition! What are your plans for the frame? I've sandblasted a couple (simple, cheap "bucket" style sand blaster and playground sand, outdoors). The frame now under my TR4 was in great shape too... but even so I found some cracks that needed welding in a few places (steering rack mounts, for example). I did a lot of "upgrades" to that frame... boxed in the large C channel rails, added gussets, beefed up the outrigger tube, etc. To finish the frame I used POR15. I'm not sure I should have. It's tricky stuff to work with and near impossible to remove if any welding work is ever needed in the future. Regarding the loose rear shocks... not uncommon. It's hard to get a wrench on the head to hold the bolt, while tightening the nut behind. I replaced with Allen head bolts to solve that problem. Large Torx head would work, too, if an extra long driver can be found. I look forward to watching your progress. So for, looking rqlly great!

Use Allen head bolts on the shocks when you put them back on make thing way easier

hi Chris take your time to control the measurements of your frame because I also have a TR4 and I have a lot of work on it because of damage

Getting down to nothing but...