The best tutorials on RU-vid. So well filmed, edited and voice overed. Clear, easy to follow and never anything but the best advice and practice. Thank you for brilliant videos. I have worked on T150s and T160s over many years but learned a lot from these videos, especially the gearbox one. Absolutely brilliant, thank you.
Thanks for that. I'm having fun creating them. Since I started I've learned a lot about video production and I'm thinking I should pull the motor apart and start again as I reckon I can do better....Either that or I'll just need another project when this one is done!!!
+Triumph Enthusiast what's needed is a complete cd broken into small chapters ... more detail and a data page ... or a booklet to go along with it .... then sell it as a restorers guide
Thanks. My intention at the start was to make a documentary but once I had a few clips done I thought "why not put these on RU-vid and see what happens". I'll keep going and when I finish I'll see what seems to be the best end game at the time.
Great series of videos, re non-return valve I have had 2 T150's that wet sumped. The problem was traced to the drilling for the oil feed tube, the factory had gone too far in and broken through into the crankcase. Drilled out to 3/8" and pressed in a steel tube, this sealed it off and increased the tube size. I sealed the copper head gaskets with silver paint and used a alloy gasket between the rocker box and head, the standard gaskets seem to displace over time.
Graham, Thanks for your comments. Every engine we rebuild we drill out the oil feed to 3/8" and press in a new (larger) steel oil-feed tube. The factory did this towards the end of production. I heard that this modification especially assisted with oil supply to a cold motor when the oil is thicker on startup.
I didn't know about this at the time, was in a rush to get it going for a BEARS meeting, used part of a Holden dip-stick tube as it was the right size.
I'm working on the last Engine related video now and that's the clutch and primary drive. It's going to be a lot more involved since it is the most critical area of a rebuild. Then I start filming rebuilding the wheels. It's all great fun!
Hi mark from tasmania I found out the hard way that if you take metal off the top of the head and off the rocker boxes (both sides) your tappet adjusters may foul the cover in use thus holding the valve open when all bolted up, also if your valve seats are pocketed (un leaded will cause this) it will also decrease clearance, I used putty to check them, now have4mm lid gaskets, good luck they rewarding to maintain and ride, covid prisoner, cheers
A wonderful series of videos. I for one am inclined to think of the T160 as a Rocket three engine, although officiandos of the Triumph marque would consider this blasphemy I am certain. But fair is fair, the Rocket Three engine was different enough it seems to garner more accolades in the past time of racing. I am certain someone will beg to differ on all claims I have made here.
You're right, there will be plenty who disagree. Fact is, there would never have been a Rocket 3 if it wasn't for Triumph actually developing it in the first place!
We recently moved our website to a more suitable url. It is now www.classic-triumph.com You can see other projects we're working on there and we're creating a resource centre for all Triumph lovers. Videos, Photos, T-Shirts, Tools and Tips. Have a look some time soon.
Dawn. if you use standard gaskets you are guaranteed to have an oil leak; maybe not straight away but definitely at some point in the future your gasket will collapse and you will have an oil leak somewhere around one of the head bolts. There is simply not enough gasket surface. I did put this motor together without gaskets but found that there was not enough valve adjustment and so will pull the rocker boxes off and fit copper gaskets, but I don't think I will ever fit fibre compound gaskets again. They just don't last.
@@ClassicTriumph I built my T160 without rocker box gaskets after the outer part of the gasket would migrate inwards, finally catching in the valve springs causing major oil leaks. I just used a smear of hylomar and never suffered leaks again. I don't remember having problems with valve adjustment though but it was 30 years ago. The best instructive videos on RU-vid. Thank you.
Everything that applies to a twin applies to a Trident BUT with the twins the Pushrod Tube O-Ring crush is associated with the head since the pushrod tubes go between the head and barrels. With a Trident the Pushrod tubes go between the Rocker Boxes and Barrels. It's still important to have enough crush but not too much. From the factory it was correct but after a few skims have been taken off to flatten things out the crush can become too much and the o-rings split or spit out and then leak oil.
If I am correct the valve adjusters are a floating ball type, can a solid mushroom adjuster be used on the T160? If not can the floating type be purchased
No we don't check pressure. When we rebuild an engine we fit the bearing shells, measure the internal diameter and then grind journals to suit. From experience we have come to the conclusion that you can create more problems than you solve by dismantling and lapping the oil pump body to try to reduce any side clearance leakage. If you aim for between half to one thou clearance on journals you should have no oil pressure issues. If you really wanted to check this you would have to fit an oil pressure gauge and see what the pressure builds to just after start-up while the oil is cool. I'm pretty sure 90psi is possible for a Trident engine in good condition. I did fit an oil pressure gauge to my T150 a few years back just out of interest. It's oil pump has never been tampered with and it had done around 37,000 miles at the time. At 2000RPM when cold it was holding 80psi. When it was hot at 2000RPM it was holding 40psi.
When I get a Rocket 3 to work on I will certainly include it. Let's face it, the triples were born at Triumph and then morphed into a BSA twin brother once the project was taken seriously.
