If you like my content, please subscribe. I need to reach 1000 subscribers. Thank you! Part 2 - Repairing a stripped gear in the auger gear box. Here we put it back together. See part 1 here: • Troy-Bilt MTD Storm 26...
Just finished a repair on my Storm 2620 using this video. The clarity of the step-by-step process and video gave me the courage to try to fix it myself instead of bringing my machine to a shop (they were backed up at least three weeks). As it turned out, I had a small rock trapped between the impella and the housing. The grinding and eventual sparks were pretty drastic, but with the help of this video I took it apart and found the stone.. Thanks for the great info and video
I want to thank you for an amazing video. I have the same snow blower and the way you explain what your doing and how you film it saved me hundreds of dollars and possibly a new machine. You made me feel comfortable taking apart my own machine and servicing it.
So grateful for you making this video. It saved me hundreds of dollars. I am not a mechanic and have no desire to be one, however, when faced with rediculous charges for what I know is a relatively simple repair, I can find motivation. This video made it simple, thank you very much. 👍
Great video! Very clear and informative. I got a metal framed doormat jammed in my Troy Bilt and used this method to remove the auger assembly and get the tangled mess out of there. Now it's reassembled and working great. Thanks so much for taking the time to make and post this video.
+kjwerder I am happy to hear this helped! So far I have heard from victims of extension cords, dog leashes, and now door mats. Seems there are many items buried in the snow, just waiting to ruin our days! Good luck with the remainder of the season.
Thanks so much for the great tutorial! Watching it, I picked up on several important points that I know that I would have missed. My machine is 26 years old, and I've already repaired the worm gear once, but it wa so long ago, I'd forgotten much of what I did at the time. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
I watched both of your videos and I have a MTD snowblower and the auger assembly is the same mines 26 years old and still looks and runs great. I am a retired machinist and when I bought mine it was missing 2 of the auger bushings, I made all new ones out of 304 stainless steel. I wanted to see how to do this repair and your videos were great and I have basically the same set up so you made it easy for me. Thanks again for your help and sharing your experiences with us.
Davin, thank you so much for the video. In the middle of the snowstorm I wound my extension cord around the augers which popped the auger axle out of its mount. I spent about 1-1/2 hours trying to bend the side sheet metal out enough to pop the axle back in. No luck with the brute force method. So I took a break and googled till I found your video. The next day I disassembled the snow blower per your video instructions, remounted the axle and blew the snow off my 500' driveway. I would say your video easily saved me $200 and a lot of time as our repair shops are booked solid. I have a 2840 which is very similar to the 2620. Jim Sweeney, Fairbanks, AK
@ 11:29 "Probably hardest part of the whole process". I agree! And I commented in part 1 about that damn spring, and now I'm so happy you acknowledge the pain in the arse it is in part 2. I had to grind off the last 1/8 of the open end of the spring in order to get it off. Your videos were a Godsend to me, and saved me a lot of time, frustration and MONEY in the long run I am sure. Even though I have a Storm 3090, it was an almost identical tutorial. Thanks so much Davin. I'm happy to be subscribing to you.
IF you follow the cable along (that hook is attached to) there is a plate on the side that is connected onto snowblower by one bolt. Removing the bolt takes off the plate which then loosens up the cable enough so that you can hook the cable easily onto the hole. Then re-attach the plate. I spent over an hour trying to hook on the cable the way Davin was doing only to not have any luck. I find it surprising that Davin was able to hook it on so quickly - I am sure he has practice lol. This video was great as it helped me get to my auger spacer that got chewed up by an electric cable I ran over by accident.
@@rylar717 I read your comment and that was a great tip. 1 bolt on that plate that holds the pulley and it gives you all the slack you need to hook that spring into the hole easily. Thanks!
Thanks Davin Cost me ~$35 in parts to fix. Our excellent local small engine shop needed $250 + parts. RU-vid and folks like you are an incredibly valuable resource Thanks Again! BTW: MTD specs a low temp EP grease. Local small engine shop provided me Lubriplate "Low-Temp Multi-Purpose" pn# L0172-098 it's inexpensive, but local Shucks Auto parts doesn't stock it or equivalent
Thanks. Mine went last winter. I got the worm gear online but I have not tackled the project yet. Winter is coming! Now I feel a little more confident about getting this job off my to do list. You make it look easy.
Amazing Video. I have the same model, and same problem. Your step by step directions were so clear, now I just need to get the parts and fix this before the next storm!
Thanks! I did spend a fair amount of time editing this down to what's important. If you are watching because your machine is broken, good luck with the repair. Thanks for watching.
This video is money in the bank ! Thanks so much !!! Made it real easy by following along each step (except that dam spring) I probably would not have done this if it wasn`t for your help . Cheers !
Excellent video, thank you. You have the knack for teaching. You can usually put the old gear back on the shaft above the new gear when you tap it back on to prevent damage to the new brass gear then scrap the old one. Unusual for it to strip like that, someone must have used great force trying to push that machine into ice. Another clue is all the bent auger rakes which should be straightened(another video for you to produce) or replaced. Since they don't turn at high speed, they don't have to be perfect, just as close as possible to get the auger to feed the impeller properly.
Thanks for the feedback. I purchased that machine new, so any abuse was from me. :-) At the time of this video I had used it several seasons on a 300' driveway with heavy snow. I do admit to pushing it hard into the plow pile at the end of the driveway many times, and that was probably most of the wear and tear. I don't think I every hit anything really hard (never had a shear pin go), but very heavy snow was not uncommon. Anyway, thank you for the compliments!
Man! You didn’t show the hardest part of the whole process which is pulling the spring cable. Anyways it is a great video and I was able to fix my Troy Bilt. Thank you!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I had to fix mine when it was -20c. I am not mechanically inclined so I’m glad I found your video. I replaced the brass gear only. I hope it can’t go in backwards ‘cause I never thought of that. It’s Bach together but it’s not snowing now. Maybe tomorrow, just seems to never stop.
Nice job making this video. I watched your Part 1 and Part 2 videos before attempting to take my snow blower apart and it went very smoothly. I took a pair of bolt cutters and cut approximately 1/8" - 3/16" of the clutch spring off and it was able to install very quick. Thanks.
Glad to help. I got the base knowledge to try this from similar videos, so I decided to make a detailed video for the Troy-Built in order to pay the community back. I think you paid a little less that I did (purchased from Lowe's a few years ago), so I believe you did get a good deal.
Thanks! I have wondered the same thing. I did have the factory shear pins in. I can only think that is was simply cumulative wear. The brass eventually gave out before the pins could shear.
Great Video. Very helpful, I have the 28" model but setup is the same. MTD Canada close over Christmas through New-years, but is doesn't snow much then. They are very cagey about cross-referencing the bearings.
@sven508 I should also add this.... If you can find a similar looking craftsman, Troy-Bilt, or any brand made by MTD unit sitting on a curb or otherwise being discarded, you can probably scavenge the parts from it. You wouldn't even need to open the gear box, just swap out the whole auger shaft/gearbox/drive shaft assembly as they all are made by MTD
Well, given it is a brass gear, I imagine it will wear out if you keep it long enough. That said, it did a hold up for several seasons on my 300' driveway. Thanks for checking out the video. I hope you don't need it :-)
@sven508 Search around for combinations of "Mtd auger gearbox rebuild kit 717-04126 / 917-0528A". That was the title of the item I purchased on EBay. You might want to open things up first and see how bad the damage is. If the shaft itself wasn't damaged, then you can probably get by with just purchasing a new brass gear and save yourself some money. Let me know if you have other questions.
Great video! Pretty easy after you see it done. I used NAPA Extreme Pressure (EP) 00 grease. Regular grease does not "flow", which after it runs the grease will be thrown off the gears and not "flow" to the bottom of the gearbox and back on the gears. It looks like part grease and part heavy gear oil and it hasn't leaked out since. It's $12 a quart and I believe it is compatible with the OEM grease that is $25 + for a small amount.
+Jack R I think any cold weather grease will likely get the job done. I agree that the OEM grease is a ripoff. Sounds like you have enough grease to do several repairs now. :-) Thanks for watching!
@canuck88x You removed your comment, but I wanted to respond anyway. When you first crack open the gearbox, you will find that the plug is held in with sealant. I was just duplicating the factory sealant pattern.
+Davin Desborough Had some challenges with the auger blades, when I put them back on the axle they did not look like yours in the video, so took them all off and put them back on exactly like your video. Tested it and works fine. Also, I could not locate two thrust washers on either side of worm gear, I only found one, not sure if the cat played with it do you know if all models had two? I ordered the worm gear only on eBay from Wyoming for 28.00 plus shipping. I wanted to thank you again for having such an excellent video. Personally, I think you should ask for donations.
+Andrew Justice Thanks again. As those without ad blockers can attest, I have monitization turned on and have made a little bit of money from the ads displayed around the videos. That said, I mainly created the videos to "pay it forward" for all the help I have received from other videos I have watched over time. I have only every worked on my unit, so I can't really answer your "all models" question. That said, I would expect to see two washers.
About three or four hours. It was my first time doing it and I had to keep readjusting the camera. If you just powered through it, you could probably do it in two hours.
Just looking at some videos for a future purchase and ran across your video, very interesting, job well done. It is now May of 2018, the one thing i'm leary of in considering a Troy Bilt is, the fact that it has a brass gear. I guess i should research if Troy Bilt still uses brass gears in their auger assembly. Thanks for the video.
I almost guarantee you that they do. Worm gears like this are often brass because it has lubricating property against the steel. Other than this gear replacement, the unit is still going strong after 10 years. Thanks for the comment, good luck in your search!
Davin Desborough thank you for the prompt response, really appreciate it. I’m not mechanical like you, so I have to make sure that I select a blower that won’t cost a fortune to have it repaired.
One helpful tip, get yourself a 6 foot folding table. You can put the front half of the blower on there and there won't be a need to work off the ground. Save your back and your knees! I use mine all the time for smaller projects like this. I have a commercial grade table (can hold 1,300 pounds) and have put the entire blower on it.
Muy interesante el video, he visto ams de lo que queria ver, lo que no entiendo es para q le pasas grasa a las partes q no entraran en friccion o no tendran movimiento.
+Juno Moruno Lo sentimos , no hablo español muy bien y traductor Google no es capaz de dar vuelta a su pregunta en Inglés comprensible . Estoy utilizando Google translate ahora , es de esperar que es una buena traducción .
Thank-You Davin for taking the time to do such GOOD & understanding video`s!, they are great to follow! The other part of the Great Video`s is no "bull-shit" to have to sit through!! It`s to the point. I will visit your site again for-sure if possible. Thank-You
+shaggy DA Thanks! I try to keep the videos tight and I hack out anything where I start to get off point or over explain things. If you found this while searching how to repair your snowblower, I wish you good luck with it!
Thanks for the video. I have a shear pin that is"impacted" LOL. I have tried everything but heat. i am afraid of damaging the plastic bushings. I might have to disassemble.
Some heat might be OK, but it is a fine line between enough heat to have an impact and enough heat that it starts melting plastic. Disassembly or drilling might be your best bet. Good luck!
Thank you Sir! I really appreciate the time you took to show us rookies how to fix this snow blower ourselves! Question for you... Why do they make the gear out of brass?? Wouldn't this part last longer of it was titanium or hardened steel?
You are welcome. Glad to have helped. As for the gear, I have heard a couple reasons. First, because the brass is softer, it provides a modicum of lubrication in that it can slide easier. Second, the brass is intended to be sacrificial. If something has to wear out or break, it is less expensive to replace a brass gear than a steel worm.
Great video. Thank you for posting this. No doubt you've saved me a ton of time when I go to do mine (actually it's a friends blower). I have a 2 part question though. Where you blocking out something in the background? And if so, how did you go about doing this? I could use that trick in a couple video clips I have. Thanks again for these helpful videos.
Thanks for watching! Yes I was blocking something out, my daughter. I setup that shot and started filming, but then my daughter came in and sat in the background. I didn't realize it until I was editing. I'm probably being an overly paranoid parent, but I didn't want her face on RU-vid. As for how I did it, I just created a white image with feathered edges and then stuck it on the video in an overlay track., I use Corel VideoStudio to edit. If I were making this video today, I would use their new features to put a blur effect over her, I could even have it track her motion had she been on the move.
Hi, thakns for the video it helped me a lot. If you could tell me more about the worm wheel that would be great. Can you tell me maybe a part number so I can look for it on the internet or a site where I can find it? Maybe it's measurements? I really need it for my thesis project but I can't find this part anywhere.
+Szabó Tamás The official page for the part is: www.troybilt.com/equipment/troybilt/917-04861, but it contains no technical details. I found this information on an ebay listing: 1 7/8" OD X 3/4" ID, 5/8" W- 20 Teeth. www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MTD-917-04861-Worm-Gear-Compatible-With-Troy-Bilt-717-0528-717-04449-20T-/141380984929 You can see a parts diagram here: www.troybilt.com/equipment/ARIPartFinderView?catalogId=14102&langId=-1&storeId=10001#/Troy-Bilt/31BM63P3711_Storm_2620_%282013%29/Auger_%26_Housing/769-09030D-A/769-09030D0007 Good luck on your thesis!
You can find all the part numbers on the Troy-Bilt parts site: www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts. Just type in your model number. Assuming you have the same one as I do, the part is www.troybilt.com/en_US/miscellaneous-classification/worm-gear/917-04861.html#q=storm%202620&lang=en_US&start=0. You can find 3rd party replacements for less on Amazon if you want to go that route: amzn.to/3av3gPS Good luck!
@@DavinDesborough It's all set. I used your video as a guide. I fixed my mother's snow blower (replaced the 2 gears) and it is back together, ready to go... She is very happy as am I
Nice job but you didn't put much grease inside with the gears. Sounds like the engine is surging and the carb should be looked at. Got to clean the carb and the emulsion tube inside the center of the carb throat, clean it real good and that should take care of anymore surging, be careful with the needle valves to get them back in the same setting. Although you did a pretty good job of explaining and putting it back together again.
How does the impeller attached ? It just slides on????My impeller is free spinnning. Glad I found this before the first serious snow. I got a TB 2620 with the free wheeling impeller some one left out for the scrapper. Look like it never saw snow, and a TB 5524 which has work flawlessly since purchasing it 2005 or 6 with just grease and oil
You can see that the shaft has a flat on it at 2:33. The impeller is not a perfect circle inside. It has a matching flat spot. This is also visible if you pause at 8:44. So, if your impeller spins freely, the impeller and/or shaft must be bad, assuming yours is like mine. To be sure, would look for any holes that might accommodate a sheer pin just in case they changed that on your machine. Good luck!
@@DavinDesborough thank you sir, I am going to remove the Shute to get a closer look but I see no holes. I would assume either new impeller or new shaft?
@@jonrob4675 Yes, unfortunately. I am going to guess they got something large and sturdy pushed up in there while it was running and "stripped" it. If you have a welder, you could tack the impeller to the shaft. 😁 Seriously though, it will probably fairly obvious what is wrong once you get it apart. Best of luck!
Thank you very much for the video. I see that you used grease only in the gearbox but when I took mine apart It had a bit of oil in it along with the grease. I assume I need to put oil in it since there is a plug for it. Let me know what you did. Thanks.
+K. Ali - I doubt that was added oil. It was most likely the oil that had simply separated from the grease. For instance, if you ever leave a grease gun laying around long enough, there will often be some oil that leaks out of it. So, just apply a healthy amount of grease and you should be fine. That is all I did. The hole with the plug is either how they inject the grease at the factory, or it is just a plugging the hole for a grease zerk they decided to remove from the design. Thanks for watching!
Is that all the grease you are supposed to lube those gears with? I've seen people pack them with grease and use the fill hole to completely fill them once assembled. Any experience one way or the other?
Once sandwiched together, I figure the case is about 1/2 full of grease. That is about what I found in there when I opened it. I have not seen any official measurement of how much to add. All I can say is it is still running all these years later. Good luck!
Davin, thanks great video. Any advice if the shaft will not come free from the end with the bearings? I have a 2620 that is about 8 years old. A rock got caurht in it and everythingn is frozen. Can get it all apart excep shaft will not ocme free.
As in you can't get it the whole auger assembly free from the housing? If you watch closely in Part 1, you'll see I had a little trouble getting it out, It needs to be a straight pull, so lift up as you are trying to pull it out. Assuming you have tried that, I would get some penetrating oil and spray it on the shaft where it goes through the bearing (both sides). Let it sit overnight at least. Then get a scrap of 2x4, place it over the end of the shaft, and give it a few whacks with a hammer. If it still won't come free after that, then it seems the shaft and the bearing have fused. Heating the inner bearing race with a propane torch might help break it free. If all else fails, you might have to remove the bearing plate, push the shaft further back into the housing, and see if you can get a bearing puller around the bearing to force it off. Best of luck to you!
@@DavinDesborough Thanks I got it. Once I realized that I was either getting that out or buying a new SnowBlower anyway, I took off the bearing plate and took a 2x4 and a small sledge and got it loose from the bearing. Now I can go ahead and finish the job. Great video, great help! Thanks
Sadly, no. It was a long time ago now and I haven't found other such kits when people have asked about them. I think you'll just have to buy individual parts. Good luck!
Great job! My second stage seems to be hitting the back of the 1st stage blades when I engage the auger. Is there something that keeps the second stage auger in place on the shaft? Go Pats!
That is odd. The impeller sits on a keyed portion of the shaft and should be unable to move forward. Is it actually sending snow up the chute? I want to say the impeller has possibly stripped or broken and can now slide forward. If so, I don't think it would throw snow. Can you push it back towards the engine? That, or perhaps one of the auger blades is belt somehow and extends back too far. Thanks for the compliment!
Davin Desborough it’s at my vacation home in NH. I’ll check it again when I get up there next. It’s been a great machine for up there. I have a stone gravel driveway 150’ long and the clearances allow it to pass stones by the augers and bucket . My previous Arens was terrible up there.
Would you be kind enough to tell me where you got that kit and its part number, I have a 2410 that I need to do the same project on. Thanks. Great tutorial btw
+Al Jennings Thanks for watching and for the comment. At there time, there was a guy selling rebuild kits on EBay. It was listed as "Mtd auger gearbox rebuild kit 717-04126 / 917-0528A". You can, of course, also find what you need here: www.troybilt.com/equipment/troybilt/troy-bilt-snow-thrower-31as62n2711?facet=ads_f50001_ntk_cs%253A%2522Transmissions%2Band%2BParts%2522 Good luck!
David, do you now if the oils seals on the housing at the augar shaft can be replaced with replacing the casing itself (like the seal on the input shaft)? Mine is leaking grease but do not see those seals on the parts diagram. Thank you for the excellent video.
Jason Ingalls My gut reaction was going to be yes, of course you can. That said, I just looked at the parts list on the Troy Bilt site and, like you found, I do not see a separate seal in the diagrams. It appears to come integrated in the housing assembly, which seems odd. Without taking everything apart again, I can't say for sure if you would be able to make something work or not. It looks like you either need to buy new housing piece (saw one place offering them for $27 each side), or find a junked machine to scavenge the parts from. Sorry, but in this case I don't have a good answer. Thanks for the compliment on the video.
Great video Davin!!!! Sorry this is 5 years too late but maybe someone else will benefit. The seals are replaceable without buying the housings. I'm under the impression the MTD part # is 921-0179 ( www.mtdparts.com/en_US/miscellaneous-classification/oil-seal-.750-x-1.00-x-.125/921-0179.html ). That number supersedes an earlier MTD part # of 721-0179. Using the dimensions from the MTD site (.750 x 1.00 x .125), I went to my local bearing company and bought the seals from them (@$4.50 each). Any good bearing company will be able to confirm the size for you from the old seal. Hope that helps!!
Thanks Davin. Very informative. One thing: At 11:42 it appears the auger belt is not very tight, even with the lever pulled. My understanding is that the spring on the linkage should be under tension when the lever is depressed to provide sufficient tension to the belt. Is that one the right size, not fully on the auger pulley, worn/stretched or am I wrong?
+Blackfinity1 Good eye. That is the factory belt and it has seen many hours of use. It is almost certainly stretched out a bit, but I have no issues with it actually doing it's job. It is taunt at the end of the stroke, if only just barely. Probably time to replace it though. Thanks for commenting!
I used some low temperature grease I purchased at a local auto store. The sealant was some Permatex Blue RTV as that is what I had lying around. Thanks for the compliment and good luck on your repair!
Great video Dumb question. Is there a way to place the backwards , or is it idiot proof ? I can’t remember which way it went , it looks the same when I flip it
Looks like you missed a word. I am guessing you are asking about the auger shaft? If so, it won't matter as long as there aren't any weird wear patterns in it. It is symmetrical otherwise. Good luck and thanks for the compliment!
