Always happy to hear when one of my vids helps a viewer.. makes it worth running this channal .. Thanks so much for subscribing and taking the time to let me know
Replace the bearings in that hub with two 6203 RS replacements. Just remove that 1/2" bolt in the bottom of the shaft and it will come right apart. Drop in the 2 bearings, slap it back together and you're good to go.
@@426superbee4 yes sir I’m aware of that, but I’m also aware that 90% of the time, in my experiences anyways, those numbers are usually long gone being rubbed off. I’m an industrial mechanic and deal with them literally on a daily basis lol.
Yeah they can get to be like dominoes .. I strip them down to the bare basics.. get rid of extra wiring and safety switches and diodes .. go thru them good even if doesn't look like they need stuff.. that's on my oersonal machines of course
@@MunkyWrench i make tools, like the spring hanger> to pull them out and place them into the holes. Modify parts ect. to. Then the dam engine blows up 🤬🤬
Hi Munky Wrench 😀 I Got My Riding Troy Bilt Pony Mower Moving again :) I Went ahead And Replaced The 2 - 6203 Bearings and the Bearing cup Housing for the VSP, They were loose but not that bad, I manually spun the Diff. pully and the Diff did not seem to be Engaging , I Removed the Diff. and opened it up and did not see any damage or metal chips in the diff. The Bearings all looked good, The Forward /Reverse slider looked good too, HUMMMM No Damage, The Forward / Reverse shifting fork was slightly bent, I straightened it in the vice with a Block of wood and a Hammer 😋 I noticed there was a Square block of plastic with a hole in it on the shifting shaft on the Outside of the Diff. I Removed that plastic because it looked like it was limiting the travel for the shifting shaft. I am saving it just incase 😜 Got it all back together and it works Great, I had my Son help me with the repairs, One word of ADVICE Take Pictures and Draw a EXPLOTED View of the parts you remove, I forgot which way the VSP and DIFF. Tensioner Brackets bolted back on 🥵 ( Embarrassed) I am not doing too bad for a 69 year young Retired Female Mechanic. When I go the Night Clubs , people think that I am 30 to 35 years old, I will take that 🥰 I will admit to being a little Rusty 🤐 Take care and have fun, Chellie +
thank you for dumbing this down for people who know nothing about pulleys 🤣 it made this far less intimidating. hopefully this is the issue with mine. thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
Now some crazy way! I either lost a spring or the transmission belt stretched 👀🔥 Rather than buying spindles all the time. I bought a bunch of seal barring to replace them. You can grease them for ever! They still wear out just as fast. Once you replace the seal barring. MAKE SURE TO PACK THEM WITH GREASE REAL GOOD AND PUT THE RUBBER SEAL BACK ON IT
Thank You Munky Wrench For All the Great Info, I have a newer troy Bilt Pony 42" Mower like about 6 month old 🤔 and it wont move forwards or Reverse, I use it Hard, I have a Arnold snow blade on it and use it as a dozer 😛 I scrape the weeds with it and use the double size pallet it was shipped with as a drag , Funny thing is that it was working fine, I parked it to eat dinner then got back on it and it would not move forwards or Reverse, The variable drive pully was wobbly , I figured the Bearings were bad, I ordered some 6203 Timkin Bearings from amazon, I think the Bearings that are used Originally are cheapy Chinese bearings, I only use Timkin or Rockwell bearings, I am a Retired Female Fleet Equipment Mechanic with over 50 Years of Experience, Its nice to Follow and Learn some one who has already done a repair, I Will also check the Trans linkage to make sure its engaging, Keep up the Great Videos, Chellie
I was surprised also.. and the new c r a p they sell at the store is so over priced. That's why we diagnose and repair .. thanks for taking the time to comment.. it means a lot
Munky Wrench, you did a great job with this video, thank you. I recently changed the drive belt in my Troy bilt pony (2011); the belt now is very tense, not sure if that’s the way it’s supposed to be, I don't know if that will be the cause of my problem, now I can only control the speed with the throttle lever, even when I put it in rabbit mode the motor goes at high rpm, but the ground speed is about half the normal speed; the (yellow on mine) speed control lever doesn’t work, it goes up and down without locking the notches, offers no resistance and does nothing. (however, the engaging of the parking brake action works fine). I opened up the hood and saw the speed control lever attached to a connecting rod which is attached down there to the cupped metal piece in the correct position as the new Troy Bilt Pony I saw yesterday at Home Depot, but besides allowing to be put in in park position, I don’t see it attached to anything else, is it right? How does it regulate the speed if it is not connected to anything else? Thank you in advance.
Sorry just saw this. I am driving down highway to the beach to pick up a couple of boat motors to repair on the channel so I may have not read everything correct.. but 1st thing .. your throttle cable should be connected to the throttle body on the carb. If you move the throttle lever u should be able to see it move on the carb. Also there should be a spring that connects the governor lever to a spot on the motor.. if that's broken or missing it can cause it to Rev at high rpms .. so check that.. when u move the throttle lever it should open or close butterfly on the carb. The whole thing can actually be caused by belt tension though
In other words.. if u bought an aftermarket belt instead of the manufacturer belt.. it could be thicker . Making it tighter. Also when I buy aftermarket belts .. let's say a 96 inch belt is called for.. but manufacturer often makes their 96 inch belt actual size 96 and 1/4 . To keep proprietary.. so go back and get a belt that's 1/2 inch longer than called for. Should take care of your belt issue. If you can't figure out the throttle issue. Take some pics and email them to me.. I'll walk u thru it
great video. I have the same mower and I have had to replace the bolts on the pulley due to being stripped out, I used longer bolts with nylock nuts and works good. Subscribed and enjoy your videos
I have one of these on a rider I just got , but mine is moving at a slow snail speed only no matter what gear it’s in , the pulleys are all turning and belts springs all seem to be in place all pulleys moving , it sat for 4 yrs in a garage when my buddy got his zero turn , the speeds worked great before parked , any idea what could be happening to cause it to only move in one slow speed ?
you deserve the thumbs up mate, mine started to smell rubber burning and i stopped it right away, can you still salvage the pulley at this point or is it toast? if my bearings still look good and no play , would a good sanding and lube job repair it or is that too late.
Thanks for your kind words.. if the pulley is sanded and lubed and spins freely with your hand. It may be ok.. this customer had melted down and shattered a couple of the bearings.. its easy enough to remove and put back on so give it a shot.. if the bearings are worn in any way then the problem will continue. I wnded up finding a used pulley to replace it with because this one was not salvageable. There have been a few comments stating u can take it apart and service but I haven't found that to be the case. Try cleaning and lube .. if your smoking a belt though it's usually beyond repair in my humble opinion
I'm working on similar unit. Colombia. Drove forward but just ground in reverse. Pulley driving transmission had much wobble. Needle bearings in upper transaxle housing were toast. The clip hold pinion gear was actually off too. Lots of water mixed in eith the grease.
@MunkyWrench hoping to just replace the needle bearings if other gears are ok. Haven't cleaned the grease out yet. Apparently this is the 3rd generation of mtd single speeds. First 2 show pinion shaft, needle bearings and pinion gear as parts. For this one they show complete upper housing with that stuff apparently already installed. $200 cdn. Complete transaxle $385. My plan is to fix like 1st and 2nd generation. Maybe I'll find out that I can't.
How do you like Briggs Opposed? I have a 46 series 20HP on a Murray 42" and it seems to run forever. Oil every 30 hours, thats it, keep the fins clean.
I think you did a great job. Found it to be very interesting. I’ve not worked on mower with variable speed pulley. Would you prefer to work on mowers with hydrostatic transmissions
Variable speed pulleys are much easier and cheaper to repair. Many hydrostatic transactions these days are considered NON serviceable.. I see so many machines junked because replacement is hard to find used and too expensive new. So I like pulleys
I'm guessing it's a manual cable wngagement.. the cable can be frozen or broken.. the spring could be stretched from age and not strong enough to pull the lever all the way to engage. Also the arm often wears out making it loose. They sell a new washer slug to take the slop out. I would check from handle to deck and make sure everything is tight. If cable is frocen.. the handle will move but the spring may be springy while never pulling or moving the cable
Most of the vid is w tripod.. some short clips or close ups I do by hand so tripod isn't in the way.. ill try smaller tripod for close ups thanks for watching
Took the pulley off but just eyeballing it cant really tell if it bad. Holding the bottom housing should the upper and lower both spin? The center piece that you move up and down moves easily....and spins. The upper and lower circles arent budging. Does that mean its locked up?
I have a Troy bilt Pony 42" mower that will start up but will not move forward or reverse at all. I've checked many of the common problems for this and can't seem to figure it out. I thought maybe it was a loose worn belt so I replaced both lower and upper drive belts and still no luck. I also have recently replaced the air filter, spark plug & fuel filter. Any ideas?? Thanks in advance
Troy bilt are notorious for not going into gear.. so when u move the lever from forward to neutral to reverse.. the lever bends and moves into position but the lever at the bottom where it touches the Trans is not actually moving.. u think your going into a gear but your not.. get a friend to move the lever and see if it's actually moving or if it's stuck.. sometimes u can rock the mower forward and back quickly while changing gears and it will get unstuck.. sometimes u have to give it an attitude adjustment with a hammer to free it up.. your probably stuck in neutral.. also on the rear of the machine there are pull pins to disengage the Trans so u can push it by hand when it brakes down.. the pin disengaged the Trans so u can push.. make sure it's in the correct position.. usually inward toward the frame .. otherwise your Trans is disconnected
@@MunkyWrench Thanks for the quick reply!! So I can see that lever going in/out of the transmission but it doesn't move a whole lot when I put it into any gear. I'll screw with it and see if I can free it up anymore and hopefully can get this grass cut. I appreciate the tips man! Thank you
did you have a bad pulley? was the new belt the correct length and thickness.. can you pinpoint what tore up the new belt? was it inside the keepers or dragging the outside of something
So my bolt which goes into the pully from the bottom keeps get loose. Ive had to buy a new pully and new bolt since the threads were done. But it seems to always get lose again. Whats going on?
There's a ton of vibration so if locktight won't hold .. I've heard of people tack welding it together to stop it from coming apart or drill for cotter pin if there's room
When I went to replace the pulley, the bearings are stuck on the old one, and stuck together it seems, didn't seem to have any grease on it eithe but bearings seem to spin, how do them bearings normally just slide off?
I've gotten tons of comments in the comment section on how people say they come apart.. but it's a press fit pulley with permission bearings.. I replaced the pulley with a good used one because of that. If u find a way to take them out please share a video of your journey with me and I'll post it to my channel
There is a spring that goes from the frame to the tension pulley .. the tension pulley takes up the slack in the belt so it stays tight and not hang loose.. the tension pulley should be a seperate pulley in the back that is on a swing arm and moves I am sorry that video was long ago and I don't have access to that machine right now but if you email me I can send you a diagram of how the belt goes..
@@MunkyWrench The spring on the tension arm is for the "small" belt on top. The motor to the "variable pulley" belt has tension applied by a "small" spring attached to the "go" pedal as a return spring!
Hello I have tried to take off my variable speed pulley with 1/2" on bottom and pipe wrench on top trying to hold it still but can't get it locked in to take bolt out of bottom. There doesn't seem to be any videos that shoe how you actually get it loose to take off. Thanks for any helpful tips on doing so.
Sounds like the nut has rusted.. u could try several things.. I used an impact gun because it whacks so fast holding it from spinning is easy . If u don't have access to impact tool.. find a hole or make one in the frame that you can stick q heavy duty bar or long screwdriver through in order to stop the wrench from spinning when u put torque on it. And to break the rust up u can heat with a propane torch for 5 minutes then spray with cold water. That often break rust free so u can unbokt.. hope that helped.. let me know how it goes.. thanks for stopping by. Hit the subscribe button pkease
Which pulley are u talking about.. if it's an idler pulley u may need a washer that fits the bearing perfectly and not too large or it will tighten on the pulley and lock it down instead of tightening on bearing and letting it spin.. if it's the double pulley and it won't spin.. try loosening it just a touch to see if it has the same problem
@@MunkyWrench In my case the bearings (roller) were stuck on the pulley shaft. The only way for ME to get the old bearings off was to use an angle grinder. I suppose using a torch and quenching would work.
munky wrench recently change the blades. on troy bilt pony and my nightmare start 😂 so the machine cut the grass only on 5 and 4 level position and 3 2. 1 start to making noise and turn off help please. the break pedal too close to driver the machine feel like stop without push the break pedal
Usually when that happens it's cause one belt is worn out .. the thickness of belt gets too thin and sort of jams into place so it won't move the middle section correctly.. so check belt 1st .. but yes if pulley bearins are going bad it won't slide up and down correctly and will cause that problen
Any idea if you can just replace the bearing? I have the same issue, but even more wobble play in mine than the one you showed. Really don't want to dump $150 on a whole new assembly as this is a Project Tractor I am doing a restoration on.
That's been a controversial topic here lol. I've had those that say u can. It's all one piece machined and not made to come apart. I couldn't figure out a way to do it that would work. I got lucky found a cheap used one
You can replace the bearings. The 3 screws come out of the holder and inside it holds 2 bearings with part number 6203RS A small tap with a large socket over the bearings knocks' them right out. Put the new ones in the freezer for 12 hours or so, and the replacements drop right in. Fixed my issue. Bearings are less than $6 for 2 on Amazon.
@@hammohammbbyblksheep4251 I've been asked that before. If I recall correctly u can not replace the bearings. Its a 1 piece press fit system. It is a non serviceable pulley. But thats just my recollection
I have the super bronco 50 XP it's four and a half years old. I replaced the drive belt. And it chewed it up it just broke. Mine's a different setup though. I can't find nothing on it
@@thomasmeadows256 actually thats a good question I just got a call from client that said belt was chewed again so it has to be a loose pulley or something I missed.. ill be doing a follow up vid this week
I got a call from the client that it chewed a belt .. there must be another bad pulley or something I need to dig deeper.. ill be making another vid this week q deeper dive
@@MunkyWrench I will say that belts labeled as compatible on the internet do are not necessarily that same. A friend of mine suggested I get a belt with the part number printed on it, now all is fine. The belts I was getting from Amazon were slightly shorter and wider. So just because a website claims it is a direct replacement does not mean it will work!
