These were great videos. Thanks for providing a near 100% disassembly video. This took a long time and it's certainly appreciated by hundreds if not thousands that didn't comment or like. Thanks!!
Thank you for sharing this! I'm tearing down a 1970's horse at the moment. Great piece of machinery, and worthy of salvaging. Great made in the USA equipment
Great job and very helpful. I'm replacing the rear tines and the rear seals in my 1977 Horse. This video was extremely helpful. Thank you very much. Good job.
I had a rear tine shaft that was pitted really bad where the seals were on the shaft , leaked gear oil really bad. Instead of replacing the shaft I ground the shaft where the pitting was and used JB Weld and filled in the grooves. Used emery cloth and sanded the JB Weld down. Put new seals in and not leaking after 6 years. Just giving some helpful hints.
I most enjoyed watching the whole step by step and the whole process and especially your comments and thoughts on this video, you don’t know how much this helps if you don’t have a manual, great job brother. Best wishes in the future farming, I’m 63years of age and still trying to put a garden every year and right now my Trojan, Troy horse is still going , I’m a dyi guy myself, always have been but knowledge is everything to a working man. Thanks again, will continue watching your videos too,take care your feller.🙏👍
Great video, good camera angels, no music,straight talk clear talk, lets the viewer know what,s next and what ya think it may be,I like to see it all, keep doing what ya doing, and thank you for posting this video, I just picked up one of these Troy bilt Horse tillers, looks just like this one
I am glad this video is helpful to you. I would say that there is no energy on my part since I was doing the job any how but there is the extra effort of setting up the camera, figuring what would be helpful or of interest to watch and then there is the compiling and uploading. I did not know what all was involved by the people that I like to watch until I tried it my self. I now have a better understanding and thankfulness to their efforts. I enjoy doing it and am glad someone finds it helpful.
I just bought one for $75 as I have to replace the engine. I like everything in detail so I can see it start to finish. I am SO HAPPY you made one in a LONG version. One can always skip a part but it is impossible to add what is not there. I used a RU-vid downloader to save it to my PC for later. www.youtubedownloader.com it's free. I will put an 8HP Harbor Freight motor for $240 on it. Would you ever think after 7 years people are still watching your video.
Thanks for the vids, I started off with just replacing the engine then noticed slop in the trans shaft so I removed the front bearing and the slop was still there and pulled the shaft out and the end bearing fell apart so I had to get another bearing so now I'm waiting for them in the mail
Mine is doing the exact same thing.I had ordered a new front seal because it was leaking gear oil and I noticed alot of slop.I can push or pull the shaft about a 1/2 inch..I may need to do the same thing as you I will be tearing into it tomorrow..Do you mind telling me the parts you ordered? Thanks
Roger Jackson your videos are great. I am not very mechanically inclined, so your videos really help. My tiller looks like yours. It will not stay in forward gear. Any suggestions?
Roger Jackson, your videos are very informative and they are great. I am not very mechanically inclined, so your videos really help. My tiller looks like yours. It will not stay in forward. Any suggestions?
I'm watching this for the first time in 2023. You ask at the time what you could do while editing to improve the content. My thoughts on that are for repetitive operations do a fast forward after the first few frames explain what the procedure is. I am doing a complete teardown for a friend's machine and this may save me from getting in over my head. Thank you
just watching your troybilt trans teardown and I like to see the whole thing not just snipbits so I know what im getting into, good job your doing explaining
I don't know if you're still 9:16 using your older Troybilt rototiller or not but if you're still helping people, I have some questions for you. We have an older machine which looks about the same year as yours. Even has the same tires. No one has been able to tell me what year ours is. My folks bought this one and I'm thinking it could be around a 1972 or 73. So in watching your videos I decided to teart into this thing. I wouldn't have done it if I didn't have these videos to guide me. Well I think I've hit a snag. When I took the tine assembly apart, there were some rollers from a roller bearing in there. After pulling the cap off the back end I found where they'd come from. The rear bearing for the drive shaft was completely disintegrated. I was looking at the very end of the driveshaft and it looks to me like there is some of it missing. Like it broke off. The brass worm gear was pretty chewed up and there were thousands of brass shavings mixed in with the sludge in the bottom of the tine shaft housing. I can't seem to find a driveshaft for this old of a machine. Do you have any contacts who might have one? I'd really appreciate it.
My Mechanic Dad put some STP in it and 90/140 gear oil back in 1970 and I drain and refilled it with Lukas hub oil and 90/140 gear oil, it looked like new inside box
Thanks for the walk thru... I was wondering if you were an aircraft mechanic based on the amount of finesse you showed, but I guess your RU-vid handle says it all... lol... thanks again
I would rather see the hands on long versions. Step by step, I'm looking at 3-4 different tillers trying to decide if they are worth the cost of parts to repair them. One has destroyed the tiller worm gear and shaft due to water and dirt intrusion. Over $400 in parts alone unfortunately it's the newest of all of them I am looking at. I'm wondering if there is a seal between the tiller gears and the transmission gears to keep the dirt and water from getting to the transmission? Thanks for sharing.
Where would I find a manual like you have? Thanks I'm about to check my rear gear and the seal is shot... It stopped moving forward and I noticed oil coming out from the seal..Hoping it was just low on oil and that the gear is ok.
I have a question about the connection between the drive shaft outer tube and the rear tine shaft assembly. Are they threaded together or spot welded. Mine is separated and I don't see how they are connected and I have a 1" gap between the tube and spline assembly. The part I am referring to can be seen at 8:40, it looks like I see threads as well as two spot welds?
Hi Doc... I have a 70s troybilt (I think), when I had the belt off to put a new belt on, I noticed the lower has 1/2 inch (or more) play from front to back.. and it's been leaking, off and on.. is that a bearing and seal, or could it be even more serious problems?
I got my parts from super x power. There are no spaces between the words but youtube won't let me type links in the comments so I put spaces in there. They have been very good to me. As you have seen or might see I made my own shaft and reverse disc.
Before you took the top off, what is the spring with the bolt in it? Is it some kind of a blow off valve? I had gear oil come out of it and I don’t know if I am in trouble or not. Just bought the thing and my wife was already mad about it as it is.
That assembly limits the reverse engagement. The spring is there so it will automatically disengage the reverse friction drive if you let go of it. It has an adjustment bolt on the top.
HI, I have a 6HP Econo-Horse Troybilt tiller. I need quite a few parts for it. Wouldn't mind used if they are good and not bad priced. I need the worm gear for the drive line in the transmisson The big one. I need the Main Drive Shaft Assembly for the transmission. Need some bearings, seals too. Main gasket. You know where I can get these. Been on Ebay with no luck. Called the main Company which is MTD now for parts. I can get some of them but not the Main Drive Shaft Assembly. Any help appreciated. Thanks
You asked. If you have four screws, we don't need to see you unscrew 4 screws. Just start and the finish. The in between isn't neceassary or interesting. thanks