TST RoundTable on Air Condition R134a and R1234yf. What's the best practice when working on AC. Sealant, Identifying refrigerant, duct temp, oil and dye, AC leak detection - what works best and more.
Virian thank you for your comment and for watching. If you have not already subscribed to our tstseminars RU-vid channel please do so. Interested in more training? Go to www.tstseminars.org and www.attstraining.com.
cheers for very interesting and informative video on aircon, i was in your part of the world the last 3 weeks and went to Death Valley, the aircon on my hired, nearly new, Santa Fe worked perfectly even at 57 degree/130 + Fahrenheit must have been R1234yf cheers sandy
Thank you. I disagree with the 30 degree temperature difference between ambient air temperature and center duct temperature. Maybe with doors open. Cabin air temperature versus ambient temperature yes 20 to 30 degree difference. Doors closed windows up center duct I always get a temperature of 40F to 45F on a 100 degree humid day here in Texas. If a temperature of 70 degrees from center duct on a 100 degree day here means something is wrong. That would cause the cabin air temperature to be in the 80 to 90F range.
Billy thank you for your comment...the 30 degree is a standard in the AC industry. If you can get less that is great and it usual happens as the interor of the vehicle is being cooled down. I agree with you since most of the time I also see more than a 30 degree difference. If you have not already subscribed to our tstseminars RU-vid channel please do so. Have a great day :)
The problem is how do you search for leaks unless you have a nitrogen tester. In the past I used nitrogen as well but when I could not locate the small leaks I switched to CO2 and back then used my gas anylizer with a special short hose...now I just use the ATS CO2 leak tester that finds the smallest leaks. Once I locate the leak I spray the form to confirm the leak. Hey thanks for your comment and for watching...this Wednesday night we have a free webcast on our TSTseminars.org channel.
Yes, I understand that. But for general pressure tests, we use nitrogen, that is what I meant. I understand if you don't want to talk about the prices. I guess you all have to respect the company policy or there are some other privacy issues. But I don't have that problem, I tell it as it is. :) And yes, I will be following your channel even though I don't work in automotive repair industry. I just like to know stuff. :)
but that does not answer the question of finding a small leak...what are you using to locate the nitrogen leak? How much pressure are you using? thank you for your time
TSTseminars nitrogen is good for the big leagues that you could find with a bubble test or your ears that’s all definitely not for those slow persistent leaks that may only happen under certain working vibration conditions or as the temperature and pressure swing from one extreme to another during operation while the vehicle is only driving down the road but not sitting statically in your bay. CO2 should never be used in any refrigeration system it’s a very wet contaminated gas anybody who is properly trained in HVAC knows this is one of the biggest know knows never to do it’s absolutely taboo never use CO2 to pressurize you might as well use wet shop air from your air compressor and we won’t even mention how stupid that is. That’s why you use a real good leak detector like the Yokogawa H 10 unfortunately those who lack experience a little ignorant or very cheap will never want to buy it because it cost too much. What you don’t fine with a bubble test with spray detection you should be able to find with a “GOOD!”leak detector. Not most of the leak detectors you buy off a Matco or a Mac or snap on truck. Then add only good high-quality dye like tracer line with a very specific high-quality UV light and they are not all created equal. (OPTi max pro 365 UV light) i’ve never found any light to beat the reflectivity of enhancing UV traceline dye then this particular light.
TSTseminars do not exceed 150 psi because the low side pressure capability of the evaporator even though the new evaporators for R1234YF are built a much more robust. Then your soapy bubbles. But usually nothings better than a high-quality good leak detector like the Yokogawa H 10 when properly used with a correctly trained technicians hand if not it’s as useless as the technician using it.
Interesting discussion. I have seen a price offer on a new machine (with 1234yf), it costs 8500 euros (around $10 000) here in Europe. It's a lot of money, especially given the fact that people here charge around $30 for an air conditioning system recharge. I wonder how much does it cost in the US, only to recharge a completely empty system?
Well you may not want it but the OEs are giving it to us to work with. Thank for watching...if you have not already subscribed to our tstseminars RU-vid channel please do so...thanks
1234yf stands for YOUR FUCKED how could the stupid scientist put a refrigerant that's flammable that is the worst thing they could have invented especially if the evaporator leaks you're in big trouble especially if you're a smoker
Thomas y don’t worry it’s not that flammable you could have 1000 cigarettes lit and it would not ignite. You literally need A flame source to ignite it Not just a hot Amber. The Refrigerant oil much more flammable but they don’t talk about that, only in a few documents do they mention that point.
No big deal same thing we went through like you’ve commented back in 1990 the first model as a test vehicle was introduced for R134A by 1994 was 100%. 2012 Cadillac XTX first and only vehicle with R 1234YF I performed my first re-charge R1234YF three months after the customer got in an accident with their 2012 Cadillac XTX. And nowadays I do 20lb to 30 pounds each week in re-charge us with R1234YF. Price is coming down you just charge more for your product $150 a pound mostly all new vehicles from auto collision insurance pays by the time the cars get old and start having leaks normally from age the refrigerant will be cheap again. And there is no flammability issue the stuff is so hard to catch on fire you literally have to hold the flame from a lighter or blow torch in the refrigerant stream well you’re discharging it as soon as you remove the ignition source it snuff itself out. Use a micron gauge for vacuum testing that’s only good for vacuum only doesn’t mean it’s not going to leak under pressure. Use dry nitrogen for fast simple testing under pressure this is the way my grandfather did it this is the way my father did it this is the way I do it and this is the way I teach my son to do it. And learn your particular vehicle he work with all the time they’re super heat in their sub cooling readings. Something you have to teach yourself record for every vehicle different manufacturers are different but there is a ballpark window to fall in. Unfortunately the education in automotive sector is rather limited to about a six grade education.
