TUBE'S OR TUBELESS?! *WHAT IS FASTER? * (POWER METER TEST!!) 

test is pretty invalid since you're using different tires...

Love your vids but this is probably the worst one, too many variables changed

Winspace wheels are hooked rims so why would you run them in a hookless set up when Winspace says you can go up to a 100 psi. But you definitely right about one thing it is a preference of the rider and whatever makes them comfortable they should go with

Nice video. The suppliers are pushing a lot with tubeless setup. Personally, I think that it is inconvenient. The latex tubes can dampen the ride while maintaining speed and efficiency. But dude, what’s with the investment sponsorship. Does not look good or belong to a bike journalist. Prefer bike stuff here on this beautiful channel

Hi GC, what tubes did you use?

Silca Pro Tire Pressure Calculator

Tubeless tyre and tyre with tube , even from same brand and type, will still be different tyres (tubeless tyres are heavier etc) . I think gc just took what was available.

For his weight 72 psi seems too low

@@apsbentom 72psi is the max pressure recommended on hookless rims

Then isn't it better to get a 30c or 32c to maintain 70

4 watts difference in rolling resistance wouldn't give more than a 6-8 sec difference over a course that long he has a 28-sec difference on a segment. It's damn impossible to say how much drag he saved going 25mm tires vs 28mm ones, but it would be fair to say that those winspace wheels are optimized for 25mm tires. even if those 25mm tires reduced drag by 2% ( I highly doubt is that much) that would be another 2-3 seconds. I'm not surprised by those results If you check the rolling resistance site all benchmark tests are done at 120 PSI, and all tires have significantly better rolling resistance at 120 PSI than at 70 PSI.

@@boogiexx Also its not necessarily a given that low pressures make you "faster" it largely depends on the roads, those roads he's riding are basically outdoor velodrome concrete surfaces. So in his case on a surface like that it really makes little sense to ride low pressure. In fact it will more than likely hinder him, riding low pressure. Here in the Uk the roads are a much rougher surface, what US/EU would describe as chip seal and my local road are very worn and broken. Trust me riding a 100psi on them (if you're light) is horrible. What i noticed the most and even by his own emission is that he's a big boy and the hookless rim were not even close for being the right pressure for him. The sag was pretty extreme.

and with proper wheels/rims like Dt Swiss. Forget Zipps and other hookless designs (hookless makes the rims easier and cheaper to produce + it is lighter and thats a big selling point in times where an everyday bike is close to a high perf. roadbike in terms of wheight). Every roadie knows that higher pressure means lower resistance and more speed, low pressure let`s the tire walk and you will crash at some point. If you want better corner grip, use softer compound tires. If you want better damping/comfort, choose wider tires. - It is that easy - Lowering the pressure is stupid.

That's wild. I'm in Utah and when I ran tubes I'd get a flat every week. Going to Tubeless hasn't stopped punctures, but 90% of them seal up without me having to stop. It seems to depend on location a lot and pavement quality. When I do get a major flat (usually 2-3 times a year doing 4k-6k miles), it's a pretty nasty situation.

lol that was the goal, to give everyday results

have the same mindset, have been riding more putitng out more PRs and KOMs since going tubeless

makes sense, the more comfortable u are the better you can perform

lmao

Chris Froome was pitching as well

@@SeeYouUpTheRoad these kinds of scams are everywhere. Damn.

Exactly. Tubeless is nice and all, but can be a total nightmare. Almost all nightmares associated with tubeless is due to the tubeless tape. I’ve had one wheel explode because the tape was leaking air into the rim. I’d only set my wheels tubeless if they have no holes in the rim bed (like campagnolo and fulcrum). I dont wanna have to dismount and remount the tires every 6 months or so to check the tape. It’s messy when dismounting and a pain in the ass to install tubeless tires.

I think that pressure goes up with temp in tubeless also. Pretty much anything that holds air.

Hahahaha thank you Patrick!!

I have been trying and thjank you so much for that comment, It means a lot my friend :)

thank you so much

that made my night!!!! thank you!!!!

I appreicate it

Thanks so much tim!!!

I went tubeless after getting flats all the time from the tubes getting pinched. My roads are so bad.

How heavy are you? That pressure seems to be pretty high for 26mm tubeless.

@@Baz520 I'm about 200 lbs. Like GC, I'm old school.I prefer a slightly stiffer ride.

and what kind of sealant do you use for such a pressure? has there ever been a puncture that you caught successfully? isn't it used to splash when the liquid breaks?

thanks so much!!

thanks so mcuh!!!

Been tubeless for 4 years now, and never punctured. I am on Swiss roads though. I run slightly high pressure than you 80/85 on 28mm, but the road surfaces allow it here. They are easily as fast as my 23mm at 120psi (which I still use near daily), with much better handling and comfort.

Right on

thanks so much I had fun making this

Stan's sealant is the absolute worst. I couldn't get it to seal even the smallest punctures. Orange sealant is my favorite, works very well. Haven't tried Silca.

@@cokebottles6919 check out this comparison… ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s4FHCg72dXQ.html

I'm using silca on my new bike. I'v recently done a 150 race in Luxemburg with gp5000 str(25 mm/95 psi). It was my first experience with tubeless. Half way, I noticed a lot of sealant on my legs and heard the noise of a puncture. I was about to stop on the side of the road when the guy behind me told me that it had sealed. I finished the race without problem. Once arrived, I checked the tire and noticed a huge hole (+5 mm in diameter). The pressure had dropped a bit but nothing concerning. I was lucky but I'm convinced that silca played a major role in preventing me to stop the race. I don't want to go back to tube's for racing...

@@vincentlannoy4414 Great story! A few years ago, I participated in the Seattle to Portland (STP; 207 miles) ride (not race.) There was an area with broken glass. Half way through, a rider told me about the leak. We pulled off, I spun the tire, and it sealed. Similar result: I lost a bit of pressure, but rode it like that to the end. In my case, it was a new tire with Stan’s sealant, but my puncture was small. The tire had a short life though. The Stan’s sealant was fine at the lower pressure, but couldn’t handle 70psi well. Soon, I rode it too flat, which puts small leaks around the tire. Eventually, it goes in the trash with tread remaining. (I should have bought latex tubes to finish its life.) Today, I have a similarly abused tire, and Silca has plugged every tiny leak. 70 psi holds for days. Great stuff!

Hey man silcas the bomb i use their latex tubes and swear by them

Wow, thank you!

agreed 100 percent i rather change the flat without the mess

hell yea!!! you understand me!!!!

hahhah that was my angle here lol, try to give people real world numbners and not some race 1st class number

Testing at the same pressure is basically the whole point. Now he’s altering two variables and makes the whole comparison not really useful. Nevertheless it is already proven TPU inner tubes are very close in terms of rolling resistance to tubeless at the same pressure. He also says multiple times that at the end of the day it’s all subjective but it really isn’t. If you use the same pressures the whole thing becomes one objective data set which you can compare. And that’s exactly what the guys at bicyclerollingresistance are doing. Still an amusing video though.

and what kind of sealant do you use for such a pressure? has there ever been a puncture that you caught successfully? isn't it used to splash when the liquid breaks?

Sounds great!

yesssssir!!!!

I appreciate that :) the support means the world to me

doing my best lol

Lower pressures definitely help comfort. I used to run 100psi and got a lot of vibration through the bars. Now I run around 80 and the difference is huge. Much better ride.

I actually much prefer high psi and that harsh ride lop

I have hookless wheels and on the back of Conti’s box they recommend 73 psi. Now on my other bike I have a tubeless setup but the wheels are not hookless so I run 85 on the front and 90 on the back. I guess what I’m asking is does that Silca calculator take hookless wheels into consideration?

The idea is to reinforce that the pros have it wrong and tubes are best. This info should not be included in the vid as it doesn't fit the narrative.

@@dothat15 yes, there is a checkbox for rim type

Here's a good tyre pressure guide I use. axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure

@@dothat15the calculators are trying to generate the lowest rolling resistance pressure in the real world. There is probably a disclaimer somewhere on the page about safety, but don’t exceed the engineering standard of your wheel set even if Silca says that rolls better, those calculators are solely for rolling resistance. In the real world, barring structural limits, that pressure ends up being very good for lots of reasons (comfort, grip, flat protection, etc)

How is it a hassle when it seals punctures by itself? I’ve never seen a tube puncture seal itself. if it did, wouldn’t have to bother about sending my bike to the mech to have him replace the tube for me every time I get a puncture.

Then use the right pressures.

Do some serious research before, carbon fibre bikes aren't necessarily an upgrade. There are now alloy bikes out there at a fraction of the price that perform just as well. If you want aero then yeah carbon is where it's at. BUT it's not the do all and end all. The more important thing is to get a bike that has no special parts that you can't get hold of in 1,2 maybe 5 years' time, a frame that is bang up to date with modern standards that will carry you into the future as much as possible is more important than the material its made from. For that I'd look to smaller manufacturers to get an idea as to where things are going, they tend to be more forward-thinking than the big boys. Mason, for example, are/were spec'ing road bikes with 35mm tiers back in 2015, the bigger brands some 7 years later are only now following suite and still aren't as wide in some cases. Velo's r+1, for example, is a good indication that everything will be (maybe) 1x in 5 years' time and completely wireless they also have some very progressive frame design because of this. I'd say if you can wait a little longer do so, we're at a tipping point right now and I feel that frame design is going to have a big shake-up in the next 2 years, everything will be about symmetry something that will only be possible with 1x. Just some thoughts.

@@gaza4543 Haha thanks for the feedback! I've been riding bikes for around 9 years but I was always the broke rider with the bike that's a bit too underwhelming in performance for his own good lol. about 3 1/2 years back, got a bargain on a Alu bike with a carbon fork with 5800 105 groupset on it and have been riding ever since, riding at least 50km everyday if I can. Recently I got into clubs and went on some group rides and it was the first time where I honestly was feeling like my bike was holding me back despite me putting the effort to do so while the other guys were having a breeze (my avg is around 250W ish since the guys were hitting around avg of 35km). So that was probably a really big tipping point for me in terms me changing from 'thinking of buying' to 'considering to buy'. But I've always been price smart to ever pull a trigger on a Cervelo or S-works so I'm def going to seeing some smaller companies for the package deal. Plus if you buy a bike, I feel like it's only tradition that you gotta buy a new kit! So probably I'll have to wait to see if I can collect all that for myself for a good carbon bike

Thanks so much!! yea the camera guy killed it and also he does the editing too

Glad you liked it!

hapy to see you backj man!!!! love to see it and thanks for watching!

@@GCPerformance18 finally man the doctors and the antibiotics kick the ass of the bacteria that i had on my stomach and came back recently for the first time but now i am ok and i got to get back on track o have many of your videos to see brother cheers and keep on pushing all right by the way nice place to ride near the beach is amaizing man ! Take care bro

Glad you liked it

I dont know btu I think so, I would not see why not

Thank you very much. I did it at the pressure of what the maximum tire pressure is allowed for the new hookless systems. That’s why I figured it was a good pressure. And my name is Grant :)

Thank you somuch for watching!!

Thanks so much!! I am glad u enjoyed the video!!!

give it a try worst case u dont like it and go back, but if you have the capabilities go for it

thanks so much man!!! I love it!!

thanks so much!!!

I understand, and there is a reason for tubeless for some people and it makes sense for you

you have a similar story to some people with tubes who say the same thing, they dont have issues that some people have with tubes..... it is all subjective and eveyrone has there own riding experience

no tubeless si the more popular 28 tire and tubed is 25

exact same, literally right after once another so as close as I could get it, maybe the test was 30 min apart

@@GCPerformance18 here's the thing. If the breeze is anything different than a direct cross wind (90 degrees to your direction of path) then one 1 leg you will have a head wind component and the other a tail wind component. In real life the perfect steady direct cross wind is nearly impossible. A better test would be indoors with no wind. Maybe a velodrome?

Thats my guy right there!!! thats how I feel as well

higher rolling resistance? how is that possible

Agreed. I'm 165 and run 85/88 on my tubeless 25mm's, even a little less for crits... GC, use the silica tire pressure calculator and run it again. Would be interested to see.......

Those pressures are way to high for tubeless.

72psi was choosen becuase this is the new pressure these hookless wheel systems are only allowing now, this is th emax psi

Thanks so much!!! I really appreciate that :)

Of course!! No problem

thanks so much!!

But the gps are not tubeless tires. You can’t use them.

@@NomadFilmmaker305 You could use S TR for both 🤷🏼‍♂️

yes yes this is a great video Idea!!! I will get working on this very soon!!!

I'm running TPU tubes in 28mm GP5000's at 78psi in the rear and 75 psi up front and i'm 180 lbs. I've ridden them at much higher pressures and in my opinion the only difference is that the bike rode much rougher. No speed difference that I've noticed.