I'd never cross zigzag lines or go around a central island, and I've been riding just short 50 years still riding a SX 1000 Kawasaki, Lovely bikes Triumph 🏍
@@VFactory-vl5fi quick reply "i know I'm a bit late for this" I've got a 17plate Speed and Triumph say the bike *will* use up to 750mm for 3000miles......
To be honest mate , unless your one crazy rider , there is no need to do it , unless your smashing the track all the time. But each to there own if it makes you smile , then go for it ,stay safe man
I love your videos man!! Could we please get a POV exhaust only video banging through the whole rev range? I’d love to hear that glorious engine sing to the red!! Cheers✌️✌️
The BHP difference between bikes of the same model can be quite significant and sometimes it's just the luck of the draw, I'd a 2014 GSX-R750 which was tested at 128.2 bhp at the back wheel (Suzuki claimed 150 bhp at the crank) then last year I bought a second hand 2014 GSX-R750 for track days and amazingly this bog standard identical bike was tested at 141.7bhp.
I really appreciate this video as I’m heading down the tuning road now. I will say though, for the cost of tuning, the very first thing someone should do with these bikes is throw out the garbage Showa front forks and replace them with something better like K-tech or Ohlins. I had to because I’m around 190lbs and the stock front forks couldn’t handle my weight. Suspension first, then power.
@@PetjeWinner Well, a lot of people haven’t experienced the difference or even care for good forks. These ones only allow for high or low speed compression and rebound adjustments alone and not compression and rebound separate. They’re a cost cutting measure taken by Triumph and they’re definitely not excellent in my opinion.
Best triumph street triple review I have seen. Please share the 6k and 12k miles service costs as well please whenever you do it. I heard the 12k service is expensive.
Thanks for the review. What If you had a Street Triple fully tuned but it was for commuting what exhaust would you use? I almost wanted the SC Pro S1 Exhaust and Headers but you last comment on the videos makes me want to do more rethink my decision since my bike is for commuting. But my drive is only 20 minutes tops to work.
Thanks for this video. I was waiting for it 🤗🤗🤗. The bike seems to accelerate faster. Do you have changes in every riding mode? Or just in track mode. Thanks for your feedback. Ride safe
Ile tell you what i always thought a triple would be more grunty very low down but i found my cbr 650f to be exceptional low down even comparing to big bikes its qwite surprising really .. In my opinion triples shine in the mid range aha
Brake Horsepower at the rear wheel makes no sense. If you are measuring it at the wheel, it's just horsepower. BHP is just the engine without the transmission, water pump, alternator(generator) or anything else attached to it.
It makes total sense... because that is the power to the road. Not the crank. You know what you're actually putting down. You have removed the lost power. I would also say its frustrating when you never know with manufacturers or tuners whether or not their figures are crank or wheel. Its important to know. So I have stipulated this
@@BikesofRye If it's power to the road and not the crank, then it's not brake horsepower. Those terms have meanings. You are trying to stipulate that it has a certain horsepower at the crank with nothing attached (brake horsepower) but at the wheel instead of the crank (horsepower). Brake horsepower at the wheels is like talking about the top of your head on the bottom. You are essentially saying that your bike has somehow managed to defy physics and have no drive train losses or parasitic losses from the generator or water pumps. It's physically impossible.
I'm becoming a bit confused at your replies... The bike standard produces 121bhp. That of course is at the crank. My bike now produces 145ish at the crank. However I have given the figure at the wheel. Which removes the power which has been lost. I am not interested in figures making my bike sound more power than it is. And note that those loses become even more apparent the higher the crank number becomes. You can effectively increase your BHP by putting a lighter sprocket and smaller chain on your bike. So yes the wheel horse power is the important figure not the crank in my opinion
@@BikesofRye BHP is HP measured at the crankshaft of the engine if it has no accessories attached to it. No water pump to keep it cool, no generator to keep the battery charged, no transmission, no power steering pump (for cars obviously), etc. This is the highest HP number you can get for an engine. It's also a mostly theoretical number that doesn't really matter. Crank HP is the HP measured at the crankshaft with the engine set up as it is in bike. Water pumps, generators and all other accessories are connected, but transmission losses aren't taken into account. It is the power your engine is sending to the transmission, i.e. the power your engine is making available for you to use as you see fit. This is always less than BHP and is a middle ground in how you can report HP figures. It's more useful than BHP, but is really just a way for people to brag about themselves. It's not really useful when comparing vehicles. Wheel horsepower is the horsepower measured by a dyno. It's the power that makes it to the ground and pushes your vehicle forward. It's what you feel and experience when you crack open the throttle. It takes into account transmission losses (and gains depending on the gear you are in and if you're looking at hp or torque), and all other forms of parasitic loss. It's the most important hp number because it's what determines how your bike will perform, but is the lowest. It's also why you have to do dyno runs in the correct gear or you get very skewed results. It needs a 1:1 gear ratio or some kind of correction. You literally can't get brake horsepower at the wheel. If you are reporting hp at the wheel, then it isn't BHP, or crank HP. It's wheel HP. That's the right number to report as it's the one that matters. It just isn't BHP. "BHP at the wheel" is just technical jargon all mashed together. It's like saying paint has red primer at the clear coat. If it has red pigment and is a primer, then it's not a clear coat. If it's brake horsepower, it isn't at the wheel. If it's crank horsepower, it isn't at the wheel either. Lighter sprockets and chain does absolutely nothing to your BHP because a BHP measurement wouldn't include those items. It certainly does change your wheel HP though and that's what matters. That's why people like going with 520s and different sprockets on most bikes. It changes how the power gets from your engine to the ground, but doesn't actually change the engine. New cam shafts can change the engine output but not sprockets and chains.
@@Peugot905 A slip-on is generally within the realms of adjustment for most ECUs, without causing problems & it is the general rule of thumb to run most modern bikes for 10-15 minutes after changing. They are pretty sophisticated & the lamda sensor(s)sends enough info for the ECU to adjust for various atmospheric & temperature changes, such as altitude etc. It's only when you put on a full system, de-cat or fit a performance filter or airbox lid etc, that you really should fit a piggyback ECU. Tbh, you'd be very lucky not to void your warranty, though, if you start doing that. My garage were such pricks, they said I'd void my warranty for just changing the make of oil...
The bike does adjust. I actually believe on the 2020 it does some sort of reset every 12mins even when you're riding. I fitted a full system and rode without a tune and you can actually live with it. There was also no back firing on decel which is a good sign
I didnt realise...I thought putting on the full system, voided the warranty, as well as the piggyback Ecu? F@#k it, I'd de-cat too coz that's the main cause of the problems. I'd, personally, go with a an autotune ecu for when I'm tinkering & changing stuff, but I don't know if Rapidbike Evo/Race etc. is compatible. I wanted to ask, did you know notice a big loss in fuel economy? EU rules are actually so bad for the bike, coz OEMs just have running so lean to meet emissions....
Disagree, more power is only needed when you don’t have it. I’ve had a couple of 675s in amongst a V41100 and SuperDuke 1290 to name a few, all great bikes but the 675R was probably the most fun on the road... Sold my 1290 recently and I’m now hankering for a Aprilia RS250 for weekend blasts, although another Tuono would make a grate stablemate.
I accturaly didn't feel the speed was that much powerfull. In fact the street certainly feels like it's more racey i think it's probs a better engine than speed
Why on earth did you need more power on this bike? When your riding skills are below average….please master your riding craft before encouraging people to power up bikes they are not capable of riding
@@BikesofRye I have been reading about fueling issues with a pipe and no tune on the euro 5 bikes. Im looking at a 2020 but I am second guessing after reading about some problems. Mainly stalling and pppr fueling.
Hi mate... on the other triples I’ve seen they have a coiled part leading off the sc project I was wondering is yours a different link pipe or is this something you can request when purchasing looking to get a similar set up on a 2017/2018 RS
The bike is not Euro 5. Yep Triumph say it is but it's not. It is stil Euro 4 with few modifications added to make it closer to Euro 5 when they have to. It still uses the old OBD (On Board Diagnostic) Stage I that looks at the key sensors measuring emissions, so anything on the intake, fuel system or exhaust. It only monitors to see if the sensor is completely broken - reading zero volts or at the upper limit. Those are fairly easy to trick with a simple false signal so tuning is easier. Euro 5 requires OBD Stage II that looks at the voltage from sensors to see if they're at a sensible level, giving a reasonable value, (not a simple static signal) On top of that they monitor a lot of the other emissions-critical items such as catalyst monitoring and oxygen sensor monitoring as well as engine misfire-detection. It is keeping an eye on these all the time. Requiring active inputs. A power commander 5 will not work on that. It isn't sophisticated enough to fool the signals to the system. Be glad you bought one now because next year tuning will be a lot more difficult and time consuming. And expect more "penalties" for tampering with the system. Right now we still get away with it. De cat right now is illegal. No one cares. But soon...
no doubt about it the restrictions will become more stringent I think motorcycle manufactures are really going to struggle unless they all go down the route of forced induction. But then in no time all be electric
Nothing like Euro5 to help slow-destroy an engine. Heat kills. Lean makes a lot of heat. We're supposed to believe such nonsense about better air quality all the while bikes are dying faster, ending up in crushers faster, being manufactured more often because emissions are killing them faster.
I used to commute on one of these. The F*king thing used to spray mud and crap all over me when it was raining. Re the ear plugs. Use them regardless or you will mess up your hearing from wind noise alone.
Taking a refuge on the wrong side is very naughty. With every Tom, Dick and Harry having a dash cam you may find a letter in the post regarding dangerous driving.
@@BikesofRye No, it's not mate. A bit apples and carrots as well. You can continue to take refuges on the wrong side, up to you entirely. If you would do that in front of a traffic assigned rozzer, would he give chase and fine you?