To increase the turning radius move the outer tie rods closer to the upper ball joint ,in effect shortening outer steering arm. Keep up the great work!!!! Love the show!!!!
You should ad some lights in the back of the crawler too, so you can light them up in the dark and get a ”almost” round light-view! And it will be very helpfull for you if you had to reverse of someting! 😃
YES! We go on night rides quite often and reverse lights help immensely! Not always on but on in reverse for sure. On a narrow trail, if you have to turn around, you're usually backing into bush or trees and with the front lights on, everything behind you is pitch black so you can't see anything behind you. Also, if you ride with other vehicles brake lights do help on single file trails at night.
Beautiful, perfect. Excellent, great engineering 👍 👏. I have an idea for the fuel cap ... chuck it in the lathe, light skim the center until the bare aluminum area is round.
you should add a slightly softer rear sway bar to the rear, one that allows for full articulation while still controlling the body roll. you have basically a sports car heavy sway bar on the rear right now which is limiting the capabilities of it.
26:36 I felt your frustration lol. I love the way you build things. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Great video and I've been a subscriber for years. Keep up the great content brotha
Oh my god that toy is so awesome. Watch, Big companies will start selling mini rock crawl trucks. Like side by sides. All because of your awesome build. One thing I think you should do is put taller tires on that rig.
Super fast Matt just did a video explaining how these shocks work and how the shims effect how the shocks function. May be helpful to you or others in the future.
good idea, imagine one lever with 3 positions. front braked, nothing braked and rear braked. Is dangerous make two independent brakes, it should broke diffs when all wheels accidentally braked.
I love your visions man when you build something. This project looks so mean like it could handle anything you throw at it. Very slick and very cool. You really have some real talent my friend. I plan to build one for sure now. Just restored a go kart and am now making a Crosskart. After that most likely a rock crawler now.
I hope you see this man! Where you have alot of bare netal products mix water n bakingsoda n use a cloth or a spunge and whipe down your frame n bare metal and i guarintee youll thanks me! Its simple and amazing one of my dads tricks! He done bodywork his hole life and alot of bodywork guys still dont know this n he learnt it from my moms father! I hope others can use this too!
Chris I like how you try to do new stuff.Also not afraid to tell us your lack of knowledge in it.With some simpler inexpensive shocks you can get by using thinner/thicker oils and maybe opening up orifices. Like Gregg at Red Beard’s Garage has done.
Hay buddy you have come along way in your builds. It's so awesome watching you grow and your mind start to understand how things should work. And I love how even if you build something wrong you still show it. I'm sure you are becoming a roll model for some young kids out there.
I saw a metal protectant on another RU-vid channel thats called Sharkhide. You can wipe it on bare metal and it will fill up the pores in the material and keep it from getting rusty. Its supposed to be an extremely durable coating. Your projects are really well built by the way 👍
What if you made a "stirrup" with a weight scale connected that you could hang on the frame and bounce your weight to see how much force is required to compress the suspension X amount of distance? You could make a scale that would sit on the floor to indicate how much it travels down when under a load. Then when you change shims you could get a pretty good idea of how much change you get from different shim configurations.
I really enjoy watching you work I'd love to know what you did prior to utube. You are so knowledgeable I love it very interesting I could really learn a lot from you
Is awesome how well it performs, I hope the engine does not run out of lubrication at those extreme angles, and just wondering, why you didn't use a motorcycle gas vent valve? You can get it for nothing form a scrapshard bike and is just a spring valve that does not let pressure go out of the tank if it's not too high, but it does not allow vacuum to form inside the tank, and does not spill if you flip it or turn aggressively.
Running non ethanol fuel helps with its lifespan obviously. One thing I learned that definitely helps too is to make sure the fuel system is completely full when you park them for the season. Topping off the tank after running the engine until it’s up to operating temp then choking it to flood the system doesn’t allow room for water absorption. I don’t know if this checks out scientifically, but it’s all I’ve done for 30+ years of north Idaho winters and have never had an issue with numerous mowers and ATVs. Need to spool the front diff and put a dig on the rear end
With the projects you do, you should find no-ethanol gas for them. It doesn’t go bad after sitting for a few months like most pump gas that has ethanol in it. You can often find ethanol free gas near lakes, as boat people use it for their boats that sit for months at a time every year.
You need hard rubber straps between gas tank, straps and what tank sits on. To get more turning radius. Make holes closer to center pivot point of wheels.
I live near Windrock and valve motorcycle suspension. When you drain the fluid, you need to account for about 20cc of fluid, meaning add that to the volume you measure when draining because there is about 20cc's of oil stuck to the inside of your shock tubes. Also clean the inside of your tubes with brake cleaner and all your metal parts before reassembly. On your shim stacks, you can soften the whole stack by going to a smaller diameter clamp shim which will be the bottom shim furthest away from your piston. Hopefully the shocks are sprung for the weight of the vehicle plus driver. If not and you are sitting too low in the stroke then a lot of the valving will not work correctly. If you need help then respond and I will be glad to assist, teach, whatever you need.
You could also try adding a secondary clutch line into either your shifter or your brake or even behind the steering wheel so you won't have to reorient your feet on the pedals while on a hill Edit: you should definitely do rear steering! Would fix the large turn radius and just be plain awesome!
Your content is amazing as always buddy, you could have just put a locking hand brake on the shift arm? That would have been so much easier I would imagine
I just watched this latest video. Awesome.e work as usual, but l think you better check the steering on the left side of the trophy truck. Looks like you buggered al least a tie rod climbing the left tire.
Thats exactly what I did with my Tacoma 4x4. It would only give about a 1/3 of the throttle but that was plenty for getting started up an incline and giving me time to go from the brake to the throttle. I used a mountain bike brake lever and a two seater brake cable and ran it through the firewall. Worked like a champ!!!
2:12 They do know a little bit but not enough to help you valve your suspension. Everything matter, oil thickness,oil level, shim size, shim thickness, corresponding shims (because they also effect shim stiffness or flex). The air/springs really only have to control the weight. Thats why suspension companies charge thousands to do it. Because they have done the R&D to know what shims to install for the kind of terrain you plan on riding.
Nice! But also too expensive for the kit. I would tried first thinner oil. I went on different side on my v strom, mixing the normal oil with a bit of thicker and works perfectly. Keep up the good job
One more thing... Sealed containers explode vented ones do not. It may seem like it's breathing fire but it'll be fine, entertaining even. I flux core on steel tanks all the time. Dump it out light the filler hole a time or two and go! But make sure all your plastic bits are removed. (My neighbor used to fix dented tanks with a match in the filler...) Just make sure you have enough vent for pressure relief and you won't need water sucking your heat away and/or rusting your tank.
1. You’re having to help it climb because the tires are too small. 2. The right front not pulling is likely due to the “pronged” “washer” inside the Polaris hub. It MUST be COMPLETELY flat. (Other than the 3 prongs) The fluid level is also important. Turn the fill hole to the 3 o’clock position and fill with ATF, spin it, and recheck.
Take a roll-over valve from a car fuel tank and install it. Plus, take the line to the air filter housing to burn off fumes. I'll be borrowing a bunch of your ideas for my build next year after my cancer treatments are over, and DR says my immune system is up to par for building stuff again.
The build is looking great! I particularly liked how you did the tank straps. You should use some thin rubber strips between the gas tank and the straps. This will prevent galvanic corrosion from the dissimilar metals. Have you picked a color scheme yet?
Can you now make those shims with your lathe or milling machine now you have that set for reference? I know nothing about them so just wondering 🤷🏻. Would be pretty handy as they are so expensive . Great work as usual 👍
Yeah, I think they could have given you some better info, but wanted the big sale instead. would have been way better to try one of their setups first n go from there. (Or someone else's.. ) I mean, your still doing trial n error anyway, but it cost you $800.. that looks like an ocd nightmare.
Wow, can't believe they talked you into that. Sounds like a crap company that just wanted a big sale for sure. For $800 I'd sell those damn air shocks and buy something completely different..
You could make this rear steer very easy with 2 front Dana 30s from a jeep Cherokee and a power up power down hydro pump for a dump truck to operate the rear steer
Brotha you gotta set the pressure on the shocks without any weight on them or you’ll get a false reading , and you can absolutely mess with the shim diameter just have to be careful because it stresses out the bottom Shim flexing around a smaller shim so much
Buy an economy sized jug of Sta-bil. Add the correct amount to every can of gas you fill up. This way all your small engines are protected, all the time. And the gas in the cans is protected. I have a lot of small engine equipment and some occasionally sit for years, haven't had any gas turn to varnish ever.
Is there any way you can do a video on measuring for a bend ? Also what tube bender your using. trying to build my wife a buggy with a 350 warrior engine and came to the conclusion that I will have to drop motor about 2.5" to clear the suspension supports and don't know how to measure for the bend you have great content and have learned alot!
Get NOCO battery, there by far the baddest battery I've ever owned. I was previously running several Antigravity Batteries and I must say these NOCO's that I'm running now are awesome. My Motorola G Stylus literally weighs more than my class 14 NOCO battery, it's nuts.
I just had a thought watching you top off the oil... Couldn't you have alternatively just changed to thinner oil? I was thinking to lightest possible and test, adding much thicker oil to bring it up to desired spec. I'm not a suspension guy by any means. I just dump my oil outta my vintage conventional forks and refill with 30 weight motor oil usually. Adding a few CC's until stiff enough... Losing air volume does as much as spring spacers.
How much pressure are you running. I think you should have suspension at full droop when filling shocks. That’s what we do with fox on are sleds. Jack your rig up then set pressure. Then your records of different pressures will be true. Rear just seems way to low like on bump stops
Superfastmatt did a video recently on shock design and tuning. Maybe you can get some useful information from that video? Maybe for future projects at least 😊
I've asked this before but don't recall the answer. why are there no coil springs as part of this vehicle's suspension? it seems like adding springs would improve the handling of this build exponentially.
