Donations www.paypal.me/SiRobb/ www.amazon.co.uk/shop/sirobb First video showing removal • Cleaning Volvo D5 Tur... As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Using my Amazon links does not cost you any extra.
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. I like the fact that they’re helpful without being an advert for every tool under the sun. Keep up the good work, and let’s hope this fixes my wife’s V50 D5
Great video as usual Simon cheers. One tip for people is something i found as a young lad YEARS ago in my teens for cleaning the chrome on my push bikes, called 'SOLVOL AUTOSOL'. I SWEAR by this stuff it cleans chrome, alloy, steel, brass and MANY other uses EVEN headlights! I bought my first tube in 1973 and i'm still using it. The solenoid piston can be cleaned using this stuff as its slightly abrasive but WONT take any size off the component. I have used it in the past tuning the A series Mini engines using it for polishing piston crowns, carbs, valves and FANTASTIC for porting and gas flowing. I recently decoked my D5 EGR which looked like a lump of coal inside, then poished it to a mirror finish where I could. It helps stop adhesion of coke and carbon. BTW im not a rep or in any way connected to the company that makeS it - its just BRILLIANT!!
Don't despair if you find a tear in any engine diaphragm, the rubber responds extremely well to superglue, Just make sure the diaphragm is dry and free from oil and grease before you glue it and it should work perfectly well for years. I've mended several diaphragms with superglue.
Everyone claiming this broke their solenoid must have done something wrong. I prized apart, cleaned everything (put back together with nozzles facing the wrong way!) and worked flawlessly! My boost now kicks in earlier and there's no loss of boost and/or error codes for boost control solenoid. Thanks SiRobb!
I have a 6805 issue. From the fantastic videos you have provided I have checked all the vacuum system ( bought the vac tester you showed) replaced the engine mounts (both were leaky, the rear more so) and also the turbo fresh air inlet hose (nothing bad found when it was finally removed) But the error remains. The engine mount switch is working OK. The turbo actuator holds vacuum and moves (not sure how far but I can hear it adjusting so there is some movement - could be sticky so I've tried applying and releasing the vac a few times to free it up)My concern is now with the turbo governor. I see you have stripped it down, but how does it work and can you test it with the vac meter? When I've had mine off I can feel the solenoid moving from side to side when I tilt it. Tilt it toward the tubes and it holds vac, tilt it away and the vac goes. I didn't think it would be possible to do that, but I don't know what happens when it's powered up. Hope you can help! Thanks again.
thanks for this, managed to clean mine but it barely had any dirt. It was the mesh which required careful cleaning as it was completely covered in crud. Now works perfect.
Yet another great video Rob.I would like you to confirm something for me Rob as I am chasing a problem on a PSA engine which I know volvo use in a few models. These eleto valves as Peugeot call them on a new valve should I be able to put a vac gauge on the vacuum port and pull a vacuum that holds without me blocking the vac out port ? the peugeot valves have 3 ports with this 3rd port just being atmosphere with a commom fiter for both of my valves . Many thanks and have a great christmas
Hello, the top plastic square peace that contains mesh is broken and become completely unattached. does this cause air leak? (i have turbo boost pressure leak on the scanner and the sound of the air is like going out.) thank you
Hey! My V70 D5 2002 gives P0244 code, it doesn't rev over 2700rpm and first turbo makes "giggling" sound. Now I have droven couple thousand km's, and I think it doesn't give charge at all anymore. Can it be this valve, or that which is front of air cleaner? And Thanks SiRobb, I have got many good adwise from your chanel!
Mine makes a a funny wherring noise when I depress accelerator or change gear. What is risk of damage / how long is safe to run car like this? Mine started happening day after I got the car a month ago.
Oh yes I've used many of them changed all the engine mounts recently the vacuum mounts , this seemed to cure the problem for a week or so until the same problem happened today always when I kick down the accelerator theirs a boost then a rattle noise then it goes smooth....More so when going up hill and when cold??? doing my head in!!
Without assembly possible video i am not doing that, and i am still wondering why did you take that rubber off, it didn't obstruct anything, max is just clean it, and this "arseambly" could make you buy a new part 90% of the time as it seems
Your boost solenoid is very clean compared to what I found when I removed my d5 boost solenoid pipe assembly :) There was lot of oil and black sludge. What do you think, where does the oil could be coming from? The vacuum pump?
Hi do you think my moo noise is related ? I've had turbo kit done recently sound was there before job . Was getting p2262 before not come up fir a while now
First: Execellent videos and I admire your great knowledge of the Volvo. I have a D5/2002 and your videoes have been of great help for me. Thanks. When turning a sharp right hand corner and applying throttle there is very little response. It doesn't do that on left hand corners. I think of two things: The turbo rpm are braked by the sideway pressure or the turbovalve solenoid is forced to one side. How do I test if the solenoid is defect?
Thank you for your comment. Your performance issue on cornering is more likely to be a problem with an abs ring and in your case, I would check the left ring first but obviously check both. My video here shows you how ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-77sntnVpyvI.html
You were right! At first I didn't see the ABS warninglight because I was busy driving around the corner, but then I did some cornering watching the lamp, and it flickered. The driveshaft bolt was a bit loose, and I had to tighten it to 50NM, but that only made it worse. When I inspected the ABS ring I found a crack. Now I have changed both rings and the problem has vanished. Thanks for your advice!
Hi there, on my volvo I have a very similar unit. Under higher rpm and mostly after switch off the engine the unit gives a loud buzzing sound. Do you have any idea what is going on with that?
I don't believe you can find just the rubber. Unless you're lucky to get from some other application. Definitely a lucky strike. ;-) Matter of fact is the unit comes sealed, obliging to buy an entire new component. Cheers
Mine didn't have the crimp ring, it seemed glued and sealed, I took the rectangle cover off and squirted the mesh filter with wd40 and cleaned with cotton bud and tissue (its really fine, was using magnifying specs and could still not see any holes) then squirted wd40 in the tubes and gave them a good blow with my mouth, bubbles appeared through the mesh, then popped 12v on it a few times to hear it clicking, refitted and the humming buzzing has gone, cheers, saved me £40, Ebay genuine Vauxhall. See how long it lasts now.
Cheers mate, car has been giving me jobs to do during lockdown so ill be giving this a go, got the p0244, not the engine mounts as they're new so will check this
I've solved some proper stubborn boost issues on a few D5s with this clean. I'd recommend watching both videos too for all the tips. See the video description for the link.
@@sirobb hi, I've got an ongoing issue with my 2006 v70 d5 with hunting revs at idle, just noticed that my vacuum solenoid gets really hot is it supposed to, I've no vac leaks that I'm aware of I've replaced both mounts with genuine volvo, also have a loud clicking from air con compressor every 30 seconds don't know if it's relate, thanks
Peugeot RCZ problems had my RCZ diagnosed code fault p2263 turbo charging air circuit p0012 inlet camshaft dephasin p15A1 lubrication system I've got no turbo working and my repair engine fault light is on .I've had a oil and oil filter change but still no power. it's a RCZ 1.6 PETROL 200BHP ANY SUGGESTIONS PLEASE
My friend, please help me, I'm from Brazil and I have a mini cooper and use the same system as the video. My acarro has the following symptom: when stepping on the accelerator it makes a sound in the turbine as if filling and refilling the turbo. I installed a manometer and realized that when filling the turbo the pressure oscillates and when it is in charge maximum at 1 bar of pressure it stabilizes. Will the replacement of this solenoid solve my problem? thank you
kaupzz I have another video showing this valve so maybe it's that one you're thinking about? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BPtABczQk3E.html
Actual valve is in the middle of the plunger. i think main problem is that little self-spring rubber inside the plunger. when solenoid is energized plunger moves backwards. valve in the middle of the plunger closes relief line and opens vacuum line and turbo actuator line, then turbo boosts. it is controlled by PWM signal.
I do not understand, when this small plunger works. should it close vacume pipe end when not energized? i disassembeled mine, the plunger moves when i press it and opens, so air can freele move. in other video guys test Bmw new Pierburg valve, and it holds vacume long time, mine not ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lKnE0RDVXBU.html
I will do my own video. opened my unit, shaft is clean but coil has dry grease inside and does not move freely. plunger works fine, holds air flow and opens. as working item, should plunger close vacume pipe without 12VDC supply? if i lift shaft straight up vertically with rubber membrane and VAC pipe connected to vacume tester, it holds vacume very long time!! if i put items to cleaned coil and set it horizontal, it can not keep vacume. so i think plunger is worn and does not hold vac as it should.
I usually would go with some home made recipes but not in this. There is no proof that the vacuum system isn't leaking now from this small valve after u destroyed a perfect seal around it. I just don't believe that u can secure it again as good i would buy a new one just to be sure i don't lose any vacuum and that the turbo actuator works with no losses. That is how i see it..
+Elvis “FANCARS” Putnoee I have plenty of vacuum test videos and diagnostic data which prove the seal has been restored perfectly. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, fair enough but to say that this destroys the valve isn't true. If you do it wrong, of course it will ruin it but that applies to anything which is why I show how to do it correctly.
Hi Sirobb ..I've got an S80 D5 with a engine rattle problem when boost is used,when revving the engine when idling I dont have the problem so I'm thinking is something to do with air or boost??
The list of possibilities is long so you just have to work through your air intake/vacuum system. There are several videos in my list that should help.
This valve is a pressure regulator, it works for me only at high pressure (after 3000 rpm), at low speeds (urban traffic) was a torment, The valve must be prompt, at any pressure change. After replacement, the car became quick and comfortable.
In my case just a temporary fix. After a 3 weeks of cleaning problem started again. Best solution is to buy a new one. If you buy used one it is 50-50 chance to repeat the same problem again and again :D
I have power surges in my car, that is turbo surges, could it be due to this valve? It happens mostly in gear 3+, but it doesn't happen always... It happens on half throttle, scared to try on full throttle... it is a 2.4JTDm 5 cylinder with 200hp
It could be the valve, it could be the VNT vanes sticking if fitted, the VNT actuator, a boost leak, split intercooler......overboost can have several possibilities.
Hi, i have a focus 2010 1.6 tdci 109hp and i have the same code coming up. I changed the solenoid valve and the egr valve as i had a stick open egr code as well. Not solved. It’s strange as if I accelerate to the floor in 2 nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th from under 2000 rpm the turbo will do full boost, about 1.1 bar and hold constantly until i shift into next gear at 3-4000 rpm, i have a boost gauge; if i try accelerating from 2000 rpm or higher the boost goes to 0.5 0.6 and if i keep my foot in it will go into limp mode. No sensor codes or other codes come up, i hear no sounds of air escaping anywhere. Any idea what can cause this? Mechanics are baffled also, thank you for any help, it’s needed
@@Dokser oke, I was just wondering if your car was in protective mode, and was slow because mine is as fast as normal, as it should be, and I don’t see no problem
@@briland54 mine was fast as well, didnt feel any difference, but I had to replace the part. It would've been a matter of time until the actuator would give up.
182,000 , the Aisen Warner auto box is work fine just to rule that out as I changed the valve body last year and the gear changes are nice and smooth, however when boost kicking in and the gear is about to change their is a hesitation and the pain in the arse "ENGINE SERVICE REQUIRED" message appears, all filters and oil changed recently so that theory I've ruled out.
With that mileage, I would definitely be cleaning the valve in this video. This is assuming you have the Euro3 163. If you have the Euro4 185, it doesn't have this valve.
+SiRobb My V70 in some rare full throttle situation write "service engine" and delete itself that caution message....when i connected car to PC....comp told me that is turbo boost vent is problem......car trough gears have hiss turbo sound....when is stacionary all is ok......Guy from Volvo service told me that this engine have two control pressure valves.....one integrated with turbo and other.....? ....Why is different my 185hp engine?
Meu amigo, por favor me ajude, eu sou do Brasil e tenho um mini cooper e usar o mesmo sistema como o vídeo. Meu Transportando materiais tem o seguinte sintoma: quando pisar no acelerador faz um som na turbina, como se encher e reencher o turbo. I instalado um manómetro e percebeu que, quando o enchimento do turbo a pressão oscila e quando está em carga máxima a 1 bar de pressão estabiliza-se. Será que a substituição deste solenóide resolver o meu problema? obrigado
Automodelismo-SSA É possível que esta válvula seja o problema. O mecanismo dentro não funciona de forma suave, o impulso será permitido ficar muito alto ou aumentar pode ser permitido escapar muito cedo. O wastegate pode não estar funcionando corretamente também para testar a função da wastegate com um testador de vácuo.
That code is a general overboost code so doesn't relate to one part. There's basically a problem with how boost is controlled so investigate the whole intake and boost system. An air leak in a pipe could be equally possible.
Sorry but doing all this is a waste of time When you prize off the end of the valve you destroy the crimped seal which is fitted on production there is no way you can reseal this to the body of the valve If there is why did you not show us how you did it?????? thats because it is imposible!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Keith Dunderdale This video is over 2 years old and the same valve in the video has been working perfectly on my car ever since so if you're struggling to put it back together, perhaps revise your technique.
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