VERY VERY good work Brian. I once did the math to turn a small sphere by the numbers which required patience and created lots of anxiety because one small error and its over. What you did is much more difficult because the curve is not perfectly spherical plus it is someone else's turbo housing. Your clients are very fortunate to have you available.
Great job Brian! Was just working on designing a new cross slide with T slots, and thought about adding a quick disconnect to the nut, and then a spring load feature , to allow the slide to follow a pattern for profiling..... not sure if something like that was ever tried.
A work of art and I bet that is a tricky deal in profiling on the way out on a contour but I'm diesel powered so what do I know. Bet you're enjoying some of this warm-ish weather even if it is a little damp. Baily would give the turbo a wave off but he was making sure the couch suspension was holding up.
Nice work! On the little tiny ones I work with you can't look in and see the radius too easily, so I mark the housing with sharpie and see where the radius rubs. Keep on cutting where it rubs uuntil the depth mic says the compressor hub is the same depth into the housing as the stock wheel was, to get the right clearance.
I watched your old video on machining a turbo, the quality is a little bit bad. I always thought they used a special radius tool to cut that. Would love to do this on my manual lathe. Would you please do a video on how to cut that contour, there is not a lot of information about this out there. Thanx for sharing the content
Near Frankfort ky. Any. Increase in wheel size will of course have more lag. How much you need to increase it depends on how much you are increasing the air flow and the fuel.
Thanks for the awesome video!!! (And the skill set to go with it... wow) Do you know how much difference the wheel and contour make, all things else being equal, or is everything NDA'd?
i would have liked to see more of the technique you used to generate the curve. that's mighty impressive hand work. what type of clearances do you use and how are they determined. what improvements can be expected after this modification? nice work
As I mentioned in the video I have an old video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ibe0p2AQYco.html that I explain more about how I do the curves. Sadly because it is old the footage is not that great. Sometime when I do a bore that requires more obvious step cuts I will do an updated video showing it all again. The biggest improvement with this mod is the reduced likelyhood of wheel failure. Power increase is likely in the 50hp range on a 1000hp motor.
Do those guys run the Dual BB water cooled turbo's? Is there a specific target for clearance between the profile of the compressor wheel to the housing that effect spool up, etc?
Not usually. The turbos usually only operate for 20sec or less bursts so the water cooling doesn't do a lot for you. The BB turbos have been problematic. They were considered the best thing ever for awhile but I don't think that panned out like they hoped. Better materials and modifications to the oiling seem to have been better long term solutions than the BB's. The clearance is mostly dictated by the size of the wheel, the bigger the wheel the more the clearance. Sometimes the application makes a difference too as the wheels can really grown with heat so the harder you push one the more clearance it has to have so it doesn't grown into the cover. That is always a bad day when that happens!
Have you found a way to make these nearly impossible to break? I am trying to find a turbo built as good as the new trash trucks turbo. They bark all day every day and are still running so they must be good.
I am not aware of anything impossible to break. The Hx60 is a pretty tough turbo but if you overspeed it it will go boom. The s400 Borg Warners are really tough turbos for the money.
Brian, given that the impeller is both dimensionally accurate and *highly* polished, do you think there might be some performance benefit to be obtained by carefully "sizing" the compressor body and by also polishing the internal surfaces? I seem to recall from my days as an idiot petrolhead youth, when we tried to obtain increases in horsepower (from engines that were entirely unsuited to that sort of exploitation) that smooth, polished inlet ports were regarded as being beneficial. When gas volumes and pressures are so much higher, perhaps polished inlet passages would help here too?
Brian Do you alter the map groove to reduce the surging ( stalling of the turbine ) in any way ? I have no experience of diesel turbos but I did work on centrifugal compressors on Carlyle chillers for air con 500hp jobs or 400ton units we had 4 at the bank and boy could they surge if the condensers got to hot ( > 105 f ) Great hand eye coordination skills shown in this video but where was the QC inspector😀 Stuart
Yeah i indicate the bore up inside as well as the outer ring back and face till I get it all running true to how it was originally machined before I ever start. I can't ever seem to get them perfect but usually within .005" or so. I think the castings distort with heat cycles.
Did you ever clean up the turbo charger after putting in all of that work? It looked like it had a lot of flake and oil, I've seen too many of those wicked billet wheels blow up from people who don't clean them after they bored out the turbo. housing
what kind of coating/paint did you put on the intake after you turned it? it looked black and was it for looks or to smooth the finish to aid in air velocity? thanks
I like to spray them with slip plate it makes it nice and slick as it is a graphite impregnated paint. I don't know if it helps but I like to think it does.
Hi Brian, Impressive coordination, I'll have to practice quite a bit more to get that result... ;) Those impellers are to death for a very short moment, poor things, are they allowed to increase fan speed and raise pressure all together...? Cheers, Pierre
No rules on max pressure or speed. You can twist them as hard as you dare. The worst thing is the backwards rule thinking oftentimes does not allow aftercoolers or intercoolers so the air is super hot like 600-700degF outlet temps. The heat is a major killer.
bcbloc02 I never realized they had that big of a gap in between the compressor housing and compressor. .040 is bit more than I was expecting. I guess they need it from the heat being cold to when they warm up im sure they grow a bit.
@@bcbloc02 how much would be too much clearance? and what kind of issues would come from having something with a bit more of a gap between the inducer and the compressor inlet?
Yes, that is how I get paid. Unless it is one off stuff like this for racing usually whoever does the wheels can do the covers much cheaper than I. if you are needing something custom done send me an email what it is and i can give you a quote.
The radius varies so it is a more complex operation than a radius attachment would produce, you would have to do a series of various radii to get the proper curve.
Yes I can do it. Do you have a cover to get the contour from or will it have to be done based off the wheel only? Also you said turbine housing and compressor wheel but those 2 parts don’t go together?
@@bcbloc02 I misspoke, late nights I meant compressor housing. Right now it’s made to fit the stock 59.89mm compressor wheel, I want it to fit a new 62mm one
@@enjoyer4128 is your comp cover the style bolted on with the plates? I actually think I may have a 62mm one of those. I don’t know what your performance plans are for it but there are lots better performing options than an h2e I quit messing with those and hx50s 20 years ago because they were very prone to breaking shafts and exploding.
@@bcbloc02 the only reason I’m building it is because it’s what I got and I don’t feel like going out and buying a new one yet, it has the ring thingy in the back that holds it on
Why dint you show what you did after 10:30 ? Clearly there is a huge difference on how the surface looks and it doesnt scrape the fins on the surface... The results after 10:30 looks great but before that count everything is poorly machined
All I did was hit it with some high temp paint and assembled it with the shaft to hold the wheel centered. Before when I was fitting it it was rubbing because there was nothing to guide it and I had it against the cover but in real life the thrust keeps it held away so the clearance is right.
Depends on the size. Usually $200 that being said if it is for a 5.9l cummins I would not suggest it as the turbine wheel is a choke and a bigger comp wheel without a bigger exhaust doesn't perform well. I know as I have tested it.
@@unclebuck6291 what rpm do you run at and fueling? Bigger wheel will add lag but gain high rpm power. From 2500rpm and down stock(56mm like the intercooled trucks had) is best. Above 2500-3000 probably a gain.
bcbloc02 my turbo has 2.5 bar of boost max at 80.000rpm, yours will have 5.5 bar (80 psi?)wow, will reach 150.000 rpm?at that speed it will extend,grow....
