Turbo Pitbike (Redoing The Fuel System Part 1) 

I meant to say at the beginning I am adding a Fuel Pump not a petcock Valve. If you are interested in the Turbo or some of the other parts that i may have used they're in the Description.

Oh well that wont work so to pressurize the bowl use a pitote tube that faces into the air stream and do it much closer to the carb so it doesnt get stupid rich on part throttle. For the tank i use two 3/8 reference lines off the plenum precarb and engine so the side without vac. This looks like a combo of the carb gets lean because the pressure isnt a linear raise and then while in boost it starts to cut out because the tank isnt filling fast enough through that tiny line. If a pitote tube is used pressure in the bowl will be higher than boost and stock jetting will be rich on boost. If your pitote tube is too small youl always be chasing a lean condition as boost goes up. With a tube like you have just seeing pressure and not air speed it will go lean in the transition into boost pretty bad and jetting for 10psi will be way too lean for 15psi. If you use the right size facing the airstream youl end up with a condition where it gets slightly richer as boost goes up. This would look something like this to your engine when its right afr at cruise 14:1 then you give it some gas light boost comes in around 3psi afr goes to 13:1 then you gag it WOT boost shoots to 15psi afrs shoot down to 11.5:1 and hold maybe working its way to 11:1 when boost goes up a smidge near redline. Just keep in mind this is a pneumatic system and flow and volumes really matter. Also with enough flow volumes are less of a concern. Tapping the compressor cover for anything other than the wastegate is a no no. Carb signal and tank signal must be dedicated bov wastegate ect doesnt matter that much although having two boost gauges with vac is very helpful to tune. Just keep in mind the goal and monitor bowl pressure along with boost to get the carb and pitote tube dialed in and use the extra gauge to also make sure tank pressure and boost come in at the same rate or close enough at least. With your current set up id be willing to bet tabk pressure doesnt come in to match boost until a few seconds after the engine and carb like i said when i pressurized a similar sized tank i needed two 3/8 lines to get the response i needed and even then if i was under 1/4 tank she would get lean and spit in the transition if i thwacked the gas not of i rolled on easy giving time to fill the extra volume of a 3/4 empty tank. The carb should see a bit more than boost and it should come up with boost if you see a delay your vent on the carb is likely too small and needs drilling (i see your running a pd26 i did at one point works great but the vent is normally too small and unfortunately you have to cut the nipple off and drill the hole bigger then press a normal nipple in then redrill from the inside to clear the path to the nipple. Wanna say od on the stock nipple is what you need id to be). The pd being a round slide will need a hole enlarged for the slide so it wont get stuck up and the needle and seat becomes a bottle neck around 40whp you can drill the stock one one size up and use the stock needle this gets you to 60whp until its choking for fuel again. I recommend the tm32 as it has alot of options to tune and fairly big fuel passages that can be made way bigger to the point we use it for over 100whp on e85 and the round flat slide gets it into boost faster too.

why not just install carb on the intake side of the turbo, why go through all that? LOL

Any updates?