Turning Ferrules- We don't need no stinking belt sanders! 

It's very rare, I can manage to get a nice finished look from just the acetone. That bit of solvent makes all the difference like you said.

Hopefully it helped. Thanks for watching.

Awesome. Hope the clubs work well for you!

Hopefully, next time it will help.

Thanks for watching!

I am using 120 and 320 grit but the exact numbers don't matter as much. You just need one lower, say under 200 to move material, and then something 320 or more to smooth it all out before moving onto the acetone. One other thing that I didn't mention in the vid, is wipe down the ferrule and hosel with a damp cloth and let dry before using acetone. The plastic dust from sanding can reform with the acetone and you'll end up having to clean the hosel off with a knife or something where it touches the ferrule. Saves a few minutes of scrapping if you wipe it down well on the front end.

@@EFGMC thanks!

I would just sand it again to remove any fine threads, then back to the acetone. Make sure you use your finest sandpaper to get it looking smooth but cloudy, then use the acetone with the most gentle touch possible.

Not from a gentle brush, but a hard wipe might. I would recommend masking tape the area to protect any wayward acetone work. You could also do a test if you haven't gripped the clubs yet and do a acetone wipe up at the butt end where the grip will go. This will give you a good idea of how the finish will hold up.

I've stopped using the spirits at the end. Best results come from just brushing acetone lightly (very lightly) onto the ferrule and allow it to dry. I fold up a paper towel multiple times, get a good amount of acetone on it, and then just brush the ferrule with the weight of the towel. Don't push down on it.

The sand paper grit I used was around 120 for the medium and 220 for the fine finishing. If you are working with a chrome or brushed finish iron, you shouldn't have any issues with the finish when doing the sanding by hand. If the club is painted or has a different finish you might want to tape off the area with masking tape to protect it and just take your time with the sanding. I've done plenty of BB&F ferrules. No issues with acetone. You should only be using very very light pressure with it, so colors don't move.

@@EFGMC My first attempt at turning down a ferrule was a bb&f ferrule and it was a disaster. Colors everywhere, fibers melted into the ferrule, odd indentations. Since that time, I've put together several sets - all of which have embarrassing lips. :/. Now I'm too scared to ever try again.

@@griffinmpc8144 A 1x42 belt sander with a felt belt can be helpful if you struggle with the other methods.

If it's similar to mineral spirits it should work.

That is a great question, and I have to admit I have never tried or heard of results from doing such. So I am not sure what the result would be as far as possible shaft damage over time. In my head it seems like it could cause issues depending on the hosel design but that is a guess. If you do it, let me know how it works.

@@EFGMC I've a set of wilson staff fg43 tour blade iron heads which are absolutely beautiful and have never been used.They really are stunning.I want to install miyazaki regular shafts with white tour wrap grips.The aliminium ferrules would just finish them off very nicely.Apparently these heads may be around 45 years old and the only ones that they made.I'm just thinking would it cause a stress riser ..Thanks Regards David

@@shellyad100 I would be more concerned if the shafts are lighter vs heavier but in the end I just don't have experience with aluminum ferrules. Sorry.

@@EFGMC Okay Thanks.

@@EFGMC Well I've got a lot of balls with graphite shafts fitted with aliminium ferrules and it seems fine. .

Medium 120 grit followed by fine 220-250grit.

Depends on the finish. If it's chromed or brushed like the PXG I used in the video, you can run the fine sand paper over it with no real worry of damage. Even the medium grit won't usually damage those finishes when sanding by hand with a gentle stroke. Of course you always want to try and only sand over the ferrule but not an issue if you go over slightly. If you have some sort of finish on the hosel (black oxide, blue, copper, etc) then you want to be more precise with the sanding. I would use a thinner strip of sand paper. I will also wrap some masking tape over the hosel (just one layer) to protect against slip ups especially when using the medium grit and trying to move a lot of material. Then I can take the tape off and carefully use the fine grit to get that edge flush.

Masking tape is the way to go. Just one layer on the hosel so you can judge how flush it sits. Couple more layers on the shaft is fine.

120 mid and then 220 or higher fine to finish.

True. Check the rpms on the particular model. You can use a faster speed but the margin for error becomes very small.

Start with medium grit (around 120) to move more material. Then move to fine (220 or over) to clean up the edges before moving to acetone.

@@EFGMC okay...Will a felt belt work with this method as well?

@@micahgregus1659 Yes, you can finish with a linen or felt belt. May not even need the acetone if you go that route.

It won't be an issue on chrome or brushed finish heads. If they have a dark finish or similar, then I would recommend masking tape over the areas you want to protect and then pay attention using a more narrow strip of sandpaper to minimize going over those delicate areas.

The chrome finish on irons is far stronger than what you will do with hand sanding like this. That said I would try and avoid sanding the metal as best you can. More of an issue with painted finish clubs.

120 followed by 220

@@EFGMC Thanks man. Just reshafted and regripped my mp 20's with the help of your videos and everything turned out great.