What you were getting in the beak wasn't exactly "bubbles" in the resin, but air that got trapped inside the mould Those parts pointing upwards need a vent. Anything connecting the tips to the surface of the mould that will allow the air to escape and let the mould fill up evenly as you pour the resin
Two part molds, makes adding pour gates/sprue and air channels really easy even if the process its more labor intensive than just encasing the original bit in silicone. There are lots of guides, be sure the clay you use is compatible with your silicone. Well worth the learning investment as it will likely come in handy with the hobby in the future. Love the results you got in the end :D
That's what I'm planning on doing With a few of the sisters I have That are still on the sprew And because I need to do it as well for A few sections on a few gundam models I have Because my niece wants one Just like the one I made for my girlfriend But I don't feel like spending Almost a $100 just for the model for the legs And Another 60 just for the head and torso And hips And at least another 30 or 40 Just for the arms And same price for the hands so roughly 210 Towards Two hundred and forty For the 4 different models I need But instead doing a 2 part mold For the specific parts Using the models I already have To make the mold Sections And some of that same Silicone I would be purchasing for that Do a few modes for certain sisters That I have either already customized somewhat Or as I said are still on the sprew And I can just use some toothpicks and barbecue skewers To make the channels that the resin would pour through As well as A Air release hole and tube So that way the resin can pull all the way up And fill as much of the spaces as possible, And then I just have to do some potential clean up
Just wanted to drop a comment and let you know that your videos on the sisters have encouraged my wife to join the hobby and start painting, thank you so much
Man I love Jen's sisters of battle and all the videos she's the main presenter on. And you can clearly see throughout the videos how she's become better and better with booth converting ans painting
Using a syringe is a great way to cast those small models. Because you can fill the model up with pressure which shelves out all of the air bubbles as well. Also adding gates and spruce to the points where air might get trapped is also super helpful
Your projects have always been creative and high quality, the vision for this conversion was great, but absolutely blown away by those shields 😮 the gauntlet has been laid down, good luck to Dave and Murray in trying to follow that lol
They must be one of the most fun conversions I've seen! I'm a big sucker of birds amd knights amd seeing this only makes me wish for a bird-folk faction in warhammer. Aside from that, this was and amazing work to see, your sisters army are really getting their flavour with that Cainhurst-like damaskus, and I'm sure the next video is going to be equally amazing! Have a great time!
they turned out amazing ! ive never seen anyone tackle Damascus steel in mini , mind blowing it worked i love how perfectly it suits the characters and army theme i see this technique getting more use in your future models
Just a hint. If you’re doing casting you’ll get a much better result using casting resin instead of the normal two part epoxy resin. I frequently make silicone moulds and cast minis or parts and they always turn out great with the casting resin. When you’re pouring the casting resin in gently tap the mould against something to dislodge any air bubbles that may be trapped inside the silicone mould. You can also try using a vacuum pot for a similar effect. Also, you should cut the silicone mould down the middle. It will be much easier to remove the part you have casted particularly if it has an irregular shape. Or you can do what I do. Pour your first layer of silicone. Gently press the pieces you want to cast halfway into the silicone. Wait for it to dry. Apply some lubricant, glycerine or mould release to the surface of the mould with the model part in place still. Then finish covering the part with another layer of silicone. Pop it in a vacuum pot to get any air bubbles or pockets out of the silicone. Wait for it to dry and you should be able to take the parts out no problem.
Crusaders are great at running around and scoring points. They don’t do much like you said but if you need a unit to stand on an objective while the rest of your army does work they do that very well
Holy crap! That Damascus steel effect came out SO well, and overall the pair of them look so moody and unique, really nailed the Bloodborne vibes with these two.
Damascus steel looks great, will have to try that out too! For casting, I found Robert Tolone's channel a fantastic resource for understanding the process
I found keeping them on the sprue helps get it more even, and use where they injected into the mold original as my pouring spouts and vents. Also I always pressure pot stuff and its not perfect but I see less bubbles.
Awesome, I used an extra Aestred Thurga and the newer cannoness for a couple extra crusaders. Gave one a cape and one a shield on the back instead of their power packs.
This is an awesome video. I’ve been putting off starting a big project for a while and this has helped me get excited about doing it. Thanks for sharing.
I've never worked with one part molds before, largely because those are the exact problems I expected (Not that 2 part molds are much better behaved). There are things that can help for future casting endeavors. First check out the Miniature Hobbyist, he has great little videos about how to make a two part silicon rubber mold using silicon rubber, Lego bricks, plasticine clay, and talcum/baby powder. Although MH brings it up in his videos, resin gates and air channels are essential. the spindly parts need to have a way for the air to escape out of the way. big resin gates cut into the top of the mold allow two things to happen. The weight of the resin in the gate helps force resin down into the part and air out those vents. It also allows you to pour the resin from a greater height, helping to stretch and pop the air bubbles you'll inevitably mix into the resin. Some things I do with my recasting is prefilling the molds, rocking and shaking the mold after I clamp it, and adding a little black or grey paint to the resin. Pouring resin on both sides of the mold, especially in the fiddly bits means gravity won't have to do all the work (this will result in a lot of flashing that will be tedious to clean but it's better than endless miscasts). Shaking and rocking is pretty self explanatory, just trying to knock the air loose. The paint mostly helps me see if the cast was successful, as the clear resin makes it a little tricky to tell sometimes (especially if their is a lot of flashing). I've seen people have a lot of success using pressure pots to compress the air bubbles smaller, but I have no experience there myself.
Well done video, Jen... I critiqued earlier ones somewhat poorly, yet this was great tempo... and I felt connected to this video (and even smiled a few times) ... it hit "lore", painting and other techniques... or attempts. - Old Guy Joe from Adepticon.
Super high level hobbying, good lord....my only quibble regarding the video is that Damascus steel was used in medieval times for weapons. The flexibility it gave swords was highly valued b/c it made it less likely that your sword would break in combat.
G'day as someone who's trade is working with steel and have base understanding of how that material is made and looks you have done a wonderful paint job on those shields. Well done,n would love to see a crypt army created as an opponent to the space bears
Damascus steel is actually pattern welded steel. It's made by forge welding two different types of steel together and folding and welding it over and over. Then it is acid etched to reveal the pattern.
Great representation of Damascus. Squad goals = Damascus armor. But not an entire suit that would be to much. Select pieces for each mini to make Damascus. Like a reward for deeds.
To get rid of bubbles while casting you can put a massage gun against the casting cup and then pour more resin in after, it shifts all the bubbles to the top Also great video concept! I'm loving the progress on this army 😍
The damascus shields are a seriously cool idea, they fit your sister of Borne perfectly. Something you can try for future parts "casting", is Oyomaru instead. Essentially its a 2 part mold-copying media thats just a press mold. The head would've been a perfect contender for testing this, give it a shot cause it could be really easy to make many copies of parts compared to casting.
Casting with Jen!? Amazing :) I also love seeing things being difficult - it validates my own struggles and not many channels show when things go wrong.
I wonder with that very technique on the shield could you go over it in true metallic speed paint or contrast and have it pop even more? Looks absolutely stunning just wanna borrow that technique and was curious if i wanted hyper complex metal look think that would do it.
