To prevent sand etc getting packed in tires you need to vent the tires on the outside ( through the tread ). With 2 3mm holes per tire opposite each other, then tape the holes off in the wheel rims. Closing off the holes in the rims prevent sand or water entering the tire, anything that does get in is thrown out by centrifugal force through the 3mm holes in the tire. This is especially important when running in water, as water gets into the tires & cant get out. So the foam inserts dont dry out, resulting in the foams disintigrating over time. The holes in the outside of the tire cures this problem as well as sand, most have been doing this method for a number of years now & swear by it. So much so a number of major manufacturers like Arrma are now venting their tires 7 not putting any holes in the wheel rims.
Thanks for adding your knowledge! I've known about the holes in oustide of tire mostly for water to get out from back 11-12 years ago but this just didn't cross my mind this time after so many years later. The foams in these Associated Pro 4 tires is not what you'd really call "worth while" tire foam. I found this out after I baked/pulled the tires off to try and fix these $40.00 per two tires. I did cut holes in these tires with the sand in them with the hopes to spin that sand out and in did not help get the sand out. I don't run in water so I don't have to worry about water. What Ive done to these now old team associated tires is I placed tape over the inner holes and I also did this to my new Jconcpets wheels and SC tires. Funny thing is while talking to the official team associated staff about this, they told me running their Pro 4 truck in the sand is not permitted. Told me they did not design this or maybe all their off road RC vehicle to run in sand. Made me assume by their wording that sand voids the warranty. Also lame becasue they in prior email, they told me to send them my sand filled tires so they could see about replacing. They had a different tune once they received them so I wasted my time plus $15 shipping. The whole experience is/was pretty lame.
Put it in nimh mode and you can buy an aftermarket $10 or less lipo alarm that beeps extremely loud and you can set which voltage it alarms at. They plug into the lipo balance plug. Not a perfect fix but perfectly acceptable and when you look at it it shows you each cell voltage and total voltage. Saltwater running is extremely corrosive to any rc. It gets in everywhere. I have two of these trucks stock running 2s 100c lipos and no early lipo cutoffs so possibly your esc is cutting off a touch early or you need higher c rated batteries. Also for the last 20yrs I’ve always taken a 3mm rod (old coat hanger) and get it red hot and vent the tires on the outside tread area in between treads usually in 4 places. That’ll fling out water and dirt. I understand your grievances here but also believe they’re perfectly easily fixable in minutes by yourself at home. These are great trucks even rtr without much or any modding.
Thank you, I'm running 120c batteries nearly new lipo batteries. No running in the water ever. Yes some moisture from damp part of sand. I rarely go to the coast/beach but since I was there, fun to do in that area. Team Associated told me running these in the sand voids all warranty and this vehicle or maybe all Team Associated not meant/designed for sand use. -News to me It's a very good platform /rc toy but from now on, I will buy from the other popular brands because of my interaction with Team Associated customer service. They get a pretty bad score based on my warranty, shipment I sent them upon their request, phone calls and the handful of emails.
I have not run the truck in many months. All the times I ran it, not that many, 10-12 times, the motor was not hot to touch. Run on the concrete street just up and down back and forth. That day in the sand when the tires filled up with sand at Port Aransas, the motor did get very hot due to the wheels weighing like half a pound each. I likely just need to go to the local indoor tack and sell. SC truck is almost new looking, new Jconcepts wheels+tires used 2 times dirt, upgraded front AE steering servo and two 120c 6000mah batteries. I lost my enjoyment for playing with it.
Education time for anybody who watched this. ESC Low voltage cut-off. So your voltage, depending on load doesn't keep your battery at a flat level at all times. It fluctuates. So when you say it's cutting off at 3.7, that's actually not true. Your battery quality is ever eb & flowing up & down depending on how hard it has to work. You actually hit your low voltage cutoff for a split second. Example. Years ago I had a 4 WD large tired, heavy RC. I noticed at times when I would gun it up a hill from a dead stop, that would be put ton of load on the battery vs say a lighter vehicle or 2wd vehicle or smaller tire. When the battery has to work really hard like that, the voltage for a split second dipped below the low voltage cutoff and it'd shut down. The simple fix for me was to switch the ESC to Nimh mode where there isn't a low voltage cutoff (do that at your own risk if you want but the solution worked for me). So your battery's while saying 3.7 are not actually cutting off at 3.7. It's because under load for a second it's dipping below that 3.2 or 3.3. Whatever it is. Many ESCs you can adjust the cutoff and if you can't in yours, go to Nimh. But this is more of a battery issue than the car issue. Furthermore, you could always run your car when it's actually full at 4.2 per cell then drive it down to that nice storage mid spot. 2nd issue. You ran in the sand. I disagree with your assessment that these things were designed to do that. Eh. Disagree. Again you can if you want, but it'll shorten the life of your RC & tires. It'd be like sending your car off a ramp jumping it 20 feet high. Sure you CAN do it if you want. But then don't complain about its life being shortened when you do so because it's all bashed to hell. This is true for every RC. Not this one. Run a Arrma Senton in sand & mud. See what happens to the tires. Same for a Slash. It's not unique to this vehicle. If one must run in sand , even though I'd advise against it, put some tape over the vent holes in the rim of your tires. That'll keep water and/or sand from getting inside your tire & messing up your foams or setting the balance off. But of the two complaints here, honestly neither one is unique to this model specifically which the title would lead you to believe. Truth be told it's just a lack of knowledge. Point 1 - battery issue or just complaint about the ESC individually. Point 2 - Just a bad idea IMO or at least not the fixes put in place ahead of time to save the tires.
Thanks for adding info. My truck does the early cut off every time it's ran. On concrete, low rolling resistance, just fooling around and taking it easy. It's the cheap esc or a faulty esc but AE washed their hands of it and just said deal with it. I asked if I could send it back and get a replacement being the rc toy was weeks old. AE said no. When I asked about warranty with wheels and tires ( because badically ruined and cost $90.00), they said send them in and then after I took time to box them up, pay $15 more shipping and time to take to the shipper, AE changed their mind. The major complaint is with Team Associated customer service. I will not buy another AE product again going forward. I've been playing with, race rc car since 1979. Been messing around with lipo batteries and esc since 2008 and never had esc issue giving me short run times. In the past, rc companies were quick to resolve any issues but today not the same customer service mentality.
You can drill a small hole in the outside of the tire so it flings the sand, dirt and water out of the tire while its in rotation. My Arrma comes like that from the factory. Maybe they will contact you and send you out a new ESC to try? Also the 3300mah battery the truck comes with should not last more then 10 minutes of runtime depending on how much you are on full throttle. How long does your 3300mah battery last before it cuts off?
I sent the tires/wheels back to Associated as sounded like they would possibly warranty. I know that's a iffy warranty claim but I've never had any of my RC vehicle's tires fill up 100% sand with a foam insert in their too. They were so bloated/compacted it was like concrete. Water on the other hand is clearly more an issue as that's a liquid. (what is super weird is the front wheels/tires are the exact same as the rears and the fronts where unchanged/nothing extra inside. If I get new tires back, the thing to do is put good piece of gaffers tape over the really small 2 holes inside the wheel hub. looks like as far as ESC if I want to actually get the most from my batteries I have to buy an aftermarket ESC for about $80-90 Castle Copperhead/Sidewinder. I really just wanted to keep simple, not a money pit as Ive done with the majority of my other RC vehicles, motorcycles, mountainbikes, surrun e-bike, my cars, and firearms.
@@GettingthruLife Yeah the problem with having holes on the inside of the rim is stuff can get in but it cannot get out. This is why Companies are starting to put little holes in the outside of the tire so it can escape. Even with the new tires they send I would cover the holes they have and put a little hole on the outside of the tire personally so air and material can escape. How long does the 3300mah battery last while playing with the truck and how much voltage is left in the pack when the truck cuts off?
@@Shreddylife I have 120C packs 6000mah. The cell go to 4.2 volts fully charged. LVC is set at on my SC-600 BL at apparently at 3.7 volts. Any person thatis somewhat lipo battery educated should know they shouldn't be run down past 3.2 volts. In the past Ive set my esc's running 3s and 4S packs to LVC at 3.3 or 3.4 volts and when it cuts/reduces power I stop. The amount of run time I am getting while on the street not going crazy wide open all the time is 12-14 min. .40 volts doesn't sound like much but the working part of the battery is only 1 volts before 3.2 volts.
@@GettingthruLife Well if you want to make the battery pack last the longest you should not run each cell below 3.7volts that is why they setup that esc that way I believe.
@@Shreddylife I'd be good at 3.4 LVC and have had good luck and good battery life. 3.7 is ultra conservative. I am feeling I should be seeing closer to 20 min, 16-17 min really pushing it like on a track.maybe 15 min 85% all throttle. If I want to get below 3.7v then I will have to buy a tunable ESC. If buying no reason to buy another cheap speed controller. just new tires/weels and speed controller /motor near price of a brand new SC-10 Pro4 RTR. The best RTR I ever bought was the legendary Associated SC8e with the included Castle Mamba Monster motor and ESC combo. Was a beast and a tank.
What was the end result of this with TA? I have the same truck and within 20 minutes yesterday it cut off 5 times. Brand new truck.. brand new battery. I agree with you.. things should work. I don’t spend $350 on a rig just so I can spend another $150 due to insufficient or otherwise faulty electronics. I sent TA an email in the last couple days and I really don’t expect to hear back from them.. let alone hearing back and them admitting something is off. Peace.
My result was no help from TA. Left me high and dry. Told my option was to turn around and purchase one of thier $190 1/8 scale esc. I will not buy another Team Associated RC vehicle again because of their lack of customer support.
If true, that would have been helpful to have the manufacturer of the esc/Team associated point that out. Clearly, higher rated "C" packs are more sought after and are perform better than lower "C" rated batteries. The higher performing batteries also tend to last longer and hold up better. Never even have I seen a battery manufacturer note that higher rated batteries my cause low voltage issue. Note: I specifically bought 2 new 120C batteries and don't own other RC lipo batteries.
@AsurasWrath164 @AsurasWrath164 High pack C rating is always better unless you have a esc/motor that can't handle the burst or continous rating of power. This esc and most arw not harmed by 120c battery. Thanks for the clarification. 120c packs have a longer work life and just perform better than lower c 20/25/30c packs.
@GettingthruLife every esc can handle high c rating batteries. The battery never pushes its current into the esc but rather the other way around. Fyi: the battery should be stronger than the esc, the esc should be stronger than the motor. That way the motor always gets the current it demands without pushing the whole electrical system beyond its limits. Battery>esc>motor
Sorry for your issues! I have the pro4 SC10 and I also experienced the esc cutting off. It would happen when I ran the vehicle to hard. And when I pinned the throttle non stop. So I got a stronger set up and haven’t had that problem since. You may not want to buy a stronger esc and motor but if you want longer and more efficient run times I think you’ll have to. I personally love my pro4 SC10 i have a castle system in it and it’s super fast and last long because I programmed the low voltage cut off to 3.2. I also have a Senton 3s and that’s a super fast and durable truck. It’s all stock and I have not experienced and cut off as of yet. You may want to explore that option. Good luck
Oh for sure castle system (copperhead/3800KV) is promo and fully adjustable no doubt. If I didn't have 10 other things demanding money each month I'd get the castle or a Hobbywing. My Pro4 is just low on the scale of got to have things. It's pretty my fine for what I do. I just try to make videos so I document my experience whether its my car, my pet reptiles, a gun, a knife, or my Sur ron e-bike. I just broke a motor mount on the electric motor having fun so instead of a bandaid fix I'm buying a new K.O. motor $850 and to get full use of that motor and features then I needed the companies speed controller $700. My Sur-ron definitely trumps my electric toy SC truck for priority.
You should get a kit and put whatever electronics and wheels on it that makes you whine less... It's an rtr rc toy. Change the esc to a programable one and regarding running in different conditions you have to prep the car accordingly.
Hey, that's great Mr. know it all, I've been enjoying rc cars, trucks and buggies since the late 1970's, 1980's and 2000's and i have not ever had my tires fill up completely with sand before. Your suggestion to just buy a kit type vehicle and add all the other things myself costs considerably more. Not what I wanted to do this time around. There are very good RTR's out and I'm just making a video on the one I bought. If you don't like a video or the video makes you feel like leaving a snide comment, then don't watch. No one will miss your smart guy comment.
@GettingthruLife rc changed considerably since the last 2 decades. Things aren't how they used to be. You need to do more research before starting with this hobby. Rc is not a consume and forget hobby. A lot of maintenance and preparation is needed regarding the tires, the electronics basically everything....
You remind me of one of those guys that drives an electric /hybrid vehicle to prevent global warming. There’s no such thing as a perfect rc rig. Also you made a comment that you don’t want to spend your money to upgrade your tires. Like the guy said in the other comment, you’re in the wrong hobby, upgrading these rigs are all part of the fun and love for the hobby. I’m not firing shots at you so please don’t think that. But if you’re not prepared to spend your money on some high quality parts then you can just do a little more research before buying one of these cars
The product was very lightly used. Used for 25 min. In 40 years, Ive never had these issues with a RC toy of mine. Quality pieces and even lightly used parts should last longer than an hour, a handful of runs or a few days if not intentionally destroyed. If you are ok with your concept of just spend more money to fixing then you can do it. Doesn't mean everyone has to think and believe as you do. Also, I was never asking for anything free, I was asking for a replacement or help with their product that I bought directly from them with a receipt. Team Associated advised me to send in these unusable $85 worth of tires and wheels which ended up costing me more time and money in the process. Then, they didn't follow through. Same thing with the ESC, not a freebie but a warranty replacement and or opportunity to see if a replacement would/could fix my issue. Good and valued companies do things to support their paying customers and keep then satisfied, just good and the right policy. Your thinking and reasoning skills are strange and definitely are hyper-critical, but that is RU-vid. With this experience, I will definitely not be buying any more Team Associated products. Other RC companies are clearly offering better and it's seen by sales and the buying choice/trend people are making.
This stupid rtr mentality destroys the hobby. Ppl dont do their due diligence to research what is to be considered when starting this hobby and get disappointed when things start to go wrong. You did so many mistakes its not even funny....
You make no sense about this situation. According to you, I bought the wrong Rc short course truck because I did'nt do my do diligence in research? That's a ridiculous notion on your part. The SC truck is fine and runs very good. Did you watch any of my videos? No you clearly didn't. The problem is with AE's customer service. My rc truch at the time was a few months old with 5-6 runs. My ESC doesn't take advantage of the full use of a lipo battery. Other RTR's work within the correct parameters. That's a faulty ESC or one that's not operating right. The solution was to send it back under warranty and try a new one. problems solved. Same with the tires ruined and filled full of sands. You got this incorrect. You clearly are problem for the hobby. You can't even use your simple reasoning skills to see the situation. I'm not mad or upest. Just a bunch up dork wads in the hobby but you watched a tiny part of my video and commented so thank you.
I with you...! I think a stock verhicle should work decemt without the need off spending money on all kinds off upgrades. It even doesn't need to be very fast, it just has to work... Some brands exist, in my opinion, from those (necessary) and expensive upgrades. If seen some really crazy prizes for a turnbuckle or thing like that. Btw, i own a sc8e, brand new! On the one side i want to use it, on the other side not, because its kind off a special car and not for sale anymore. Think it was the one off the first and best sc trucks (but couldnt afford it then)
Yea some people don't want to invest more into sometime that's for casual fun. Still should perform well and close to its potential. I don't know if I had the 1st gen electric version SC8e but the big Castle Creations Mamba Max esc and the Castle 2100kv motor were brilliant and full of speed and tune-ability. I should have never sold mine but a long time ago. When I had a problem with the SC8e RTR steering servo a few months in from new, Team associated support sent me a full race spec 1/8 scale XP digital aluminum servo and said it's on us, enjoy. Those days are over, no more service like that.
Soft sand does add additional resistance but so do many other common situation these rc vechile encounter. Why then do many rc vehicle manufactures offer sand paddle tires? As long as the electronics don't get overheated, why not run in/on sand?Not running in sand ever can be a big compromise for many. I see people's youtube channels and all they run on is sand. Their main tracks are sand. Also, take note I wasn't using it on soft, deep, fine sand. Thanks for adding to the discussion.
Dont take these hate comments to seriously, a problem is a problem and nothing will ever be perfect, the ability to state these issues without worrying about the hate is what sets you apart from the haters😊
Team associated customer service was the downside. The Pro4 shortcourse truck is pretty good. Thanks for your comment. Some topics just draw more criticism then others. RU-vid critics and keyboard balls/attitudes.
That's not true. A person doesn't have to go spend big money to enjoy the hobby and get a nice, solid setup. I'm sure that's what you are pointing to. That's just your one-sided view. Thank goodness you can share your view though. I've been in the hobby since 1983. There's many avenues in this hobby depending one what the person wants to do and their goals. I'm just having fun like I did growing up. It's not always about having to spend large sums of money to get what works, value.
How is he in the wrong hobby when Reedy failed to make the ESC programable/adjustable lol? This is why I didn't buy this truck. All his points are valid.
@@Shreddylife This person is likely saying I'm in the wrong hobby because in his opinion to be in this hobby requires a lot of spending of money, constantly replacing things and upgrading. This can be true as with most everything if chossen to go that route but not everyone gets in this hooby with this intention. Not everyone after buying a product, $$$.$$, wants to immediately go in and spend $100, 200 or 500 to gain a little more or at least not right away.
@@GettingthruLife - you can get away with doing this hobby cheaply, but you're going to break/ ruin many RC parts (motors, gears, tires, etc.) while you learn more about the hobby. Tires filling up with sand because the holes weren't taped over is an example. I broke all kinds of parts and spent hundreds of hours learning about the hobby online before I stopped making noobie mistakes. There's definitely a steep learning curve.
I even burned out a $40 receiver because I plugged one of the JST plugs in backward. It fried the whole thing. I killed another $40 receiver because I ran the truck at the beach and got it wet (Traxxas Slash). As I found out, the Slash has a sealed receiver box, albeit, the rubber seal needs to be properly greased before taking it anywhere near water-otherwise, water gets in the box and kills the servo. Other brands make the receiver waterproof. There is nowhere in the manual that says "grease the receiver box seal before operating in water." It's all trial and error for the most part, other than what you can learn from RU-vidrs and forums, albeit, those folks may not be providing the correct information depending on how long we've been in the hobby and their competency with mechanical/electrical principles.
