Your channel is by far the most useful 3D printing channel. I honestly have no clue where you find the time and motivation to make these videos. Please keep it up, you are the best thing that could have happened to the 3D printing community :)
I went to Reddit and found a thread about this guy and everything they said about him is why I unsubbed him so I am glad I wasn't the only one out there who noticed. If you really think this is the most useful then you are a total newb and haven't checked around. This moron doesn't dig deep enough when he should and over blows it when it doesn't need to be and he doesn't really come back and answer anything. Careful using his "fixes" as I have spotted a couple on other videos that were doozies.
@@theonlymudgel I guess he can't. I wonder why people like him get their jollies from thinking they are superior and know secrets mere mortals like us can only hope to acquire. This channel, and specifically this video, was recommended by Angus of Makers Muse. That says a lot.
One tip for PID tuning from my experience: do it with filament inside the hotend, loaded, ready to print. After initially calibrating my PID, starting a print I ran into thermal runaway (being too low) because the filament cooled the hotend and it couldn't keep up. So do it with filament inside. Happy printing! And thanks Michael for the great videos!!
Absolutly been fighting with this issue on an older Tevo Tornado running a stock MKS 1.4 board that i upgraded to Klipper. The hotend was all over the place. Replaced the hotend, sensors, heater, Tried every trick with the configuration and no luck. I had some of these caps, tossed one on last night and re ran a PID auto tune.. The temps are absolutly STABLE and the lines is flat. The PID controller actually modulating it's self instead of just turning ON/OFF and jumping all over. Thanks SO MUCH, It was driving me crazy and I don't see a lot of info about this problem. This is the first time I'm hearing about it and I thought I read everything about the issue.
Dear Michael, this particular video really saved me tonight. After my first complete revision of my Ender’s hotend the temperature didn’t really get stable. With the new calibration parameters, the system is usable agein. So please receive a very big thank you from Frankfurt, Germany ⚫️⚪️❤️ I have known from the beginning (one month ago) that this would become a quite challenging hobby with struggles involved. Thanks for sharing your experience with all uf us!
Hi Michael, thank you very much for the video. After nerve crushing "biippp" sound at least 10 consecutive times, I changed the Thermistor of my ender 3 v2 neo 3 times, in addition to changing the heater cartridge. But I had the same fluctuation issue until seeing your video. None of the other videos or the user guides were mentioning about calibration codes. This worked like a charm! Thank you.
Thank you so much! I used the built in autotune button through the octo server and it completely threw everything off! My ender 6 would fault out after and i even tried a new thermistor. This procedure cleared everything up with the stock heater and thermistor. When i have a problem and your videos come up i know its clear skies.
Thank you, I have been printing for 2 years. THis is the first time I ran into this. I was about to change my hotend until I found this. The PID command worked
Thank you so much! I was able to fix my issues with temperature fluctuation using the second method with the capacitor. This was really easy to follow and my printer is working so much better now!
A simple, zero-cost check: starting with the power supply, make sure ALL the power connections are tight! Especially the power supply, hot end, and bed heater. With thermal cycling, connectors can work loose over time, causing voltage drops and fluctuations. Same goes for thermistor/temp sensor connections -- make sure things are tight. While these aren't power hungry, a little electrical noise can cause big problems.
I wish I found this a week ago! Was given an MKS Gen-L V1.0 to replace my dead Anet A8 board. I've been unsuccessfully fighting severely fluctuating hot end temps for a week until I soldered in an $0.85au 1000uf low ESR cap from Jaycar. Temps are now rock solid! Thank you so much! :D
This is perfect timing, my printer started fluctuating this weekend after changing the nozzle and the tube. I’ve heard about doing the PID tune but when people try to explain it it sounded so complicated, watching you made it so easy. Thanks for the video 👍
Have a RAMPS 1.4 on Mega2560. Both my bed and hot end temps were fluctuating identically +/- 3 degrees at room temp. Tried out the capacitor using the AUX-2 GND/5V pins on the RAMPS. Worked like a charm! Thanks so much!
So... Here I am 4 years later and I did a "recent" change of my hotend (on my Tevo Tornado V2), upgrading to a E3D v6. I have been baffled by the unstable temps and I did the capacitor on the 5v and gnd pins trick and it solved the problem. I have changed firmware so many times. Thanks for the well documented solution. I can't believe it took me this long to find it.
This fixed my Tevo, it was driving me crazy. Went to Klipper and could NOT get stable temps on the hotend no matter what. Even replaced it, the heater and sensor. Put on a cap and they are perfectly stable now!
Apparently, this also happens when upgrading from a 12V system to 24V. I built my 3d printer from scratch, also using an MKS Gen L as motherboard then converted to a 24V system. The 1000uF capacitor fixed it! Thanks for the tip. I'm not sure about my cap if it's low ESR and I'm really in a pinch so I tested out these generic capacitors I also have been hoarding. It's working well so far.
Oh my god you saved me. I wasn't able to do any filament swaps because my hot end kept going 195-205. Now with the m303 it stays stable. I should have known to come here first been fighting it for months
PID calibration fixed my problem. Thanks as always. It was around +/- 4.5degree before calibration. Now it is around +/- 0.6degree. Printer is Ender 3 pro v1.5 Mainboard is stock 4.2.2
Fantastic guide Michael. I've replaced a couple of capacitors for exactly this reason but I've always soldered them direct to the board. Your way makes it a lot easier for those not comfortable with soldering. Superb!
Once again you save the day. Great video. Quick tip: you can also communicate w/ your printer using the Terminal window in the Arduino IDE (115200 baud)
There are some useful settings in the configuration.h file than can help solving temperature instability issues: #define BANG_MAX 255 // Limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current #define PID_MAX BANG_MAX // Limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 255=full current Use them to lower the maximum power to the hotend or hotbed. 100% power is represented by 255, you could try 200, which is about 80% of the power. #define PID_MAX 200
@@bernardtarver Why not? Reducing the max power will at least reduce overshoot I was unable to get a stable temperature with autotune, until I reduced the maximum power
Incredible - for years my temperatures fluctuated and didnt give decent PID routine results. That capacitor is amazing ! Temperature sits right on the target. And I can now run my M303 at the higher temps I use
Although there are many good 3D printing channel, Teaching Tech goes beyond with all the detail and technical background. This video helped me "fix" my Sovol SV01 problems and now I also understand the concept, thanks to your little rocket :)! Thanks!
Thanks Michael, MKS Gen 1.4 also have this problem. I installed 470uf 25v LowESR cap and is now reading +-1deg temp difference from the target. Big improvement. Thanks very much.
When looking into PID tuning the hotend, I noticed many people recommend switching the hotend cooling fan on so that it's tuned for that as intuitively it would make sense that the part cooling fan affects the hotend heating since the hotend is very close to the part - whether that's better or not in practice I'm not sure.
It absolutely makes sense to have the fan running and anything else that can effect the hotend ( silicon sock for example) Simply put ...Autotune tries to gauge the temp deviation between the desired temp ( set point) and actual temp ( measured temp) It then calculates a proportional response ( the P in PID) Also worth using auto tune at the temp you normally print at.
Ideally you would need to be extruding as well during the autotune process. Ultimately the passage and heating of filament obviously has a large effect on the temp stability
@@bernardtarver Minor quibble: Some part cooling fans improperly blow onto the hotend assembly itself due to bad designs. Additionally, some hotend cooling fans blow right on the heater block instead of on the heatbreak/heatsink where they're meant to. Ideally neither would be the case, but here we are.
The temp flucs I am getting are exactly like the top image you showed. My lil ol Ender 3 is in need of TLC so I'll treat it to the 4.2.7 creality board and do the PID which hopefully will not only fix the fluctuations but let me use a BLT cos I am bored stiff with manual levelling LOL As always Michael your videos tell me exactly what I need to know. Thank you Sir.
Life saver thanks! I guess my PID could keep up with the wild fluctuations but I have aAC bed now and SSR and needed to do slow PWM for it and then everything to super noisy and could not keep up. This made all the difference.
Thank you so much for this video! I was struggling with temperature swings for months and couldn't fix it with PID autotune (and other solutions I found). I just stumbled upon your video, ordered low esr capacitor and... temperatures are stable! You've got a new patreon supporter!
Please help me with this. I am pretty slow on the uptake so I am probably missing a step. @ <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="65">1:05</a> he talks introduces us to the M303 PI autotune web site (are we meant to download and install something at this point or is he just pointing out the code that we refer to)? Because when I get to the <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="180">3:00</a> min mark and type in the code to the terminal on octoprint I then press enter but the test does not start??
Would you have any suggestions where to install the capacitor solution on a cr10s pro? I'm uncertain where might be appropriate and can't find any info
My Ender3 V2 hot end temperature suddenly started dropping during printing after changing the nozzle from 0.4 mm to 0.6 mm. The printer stops printing with the temperature drop from 220 to 195. After going through all the checks, I noticed the the hotend temperature going down when the blower fan stsrts and goes to max speed of 255. When I reduce the fan speed to 60 then the hotend temperature went up. After cuttinf off the blower fan, the printing was ok. This is clearly showing that the current (amp) from the power supply is not sufficient to handle the total load. The Ender 3V2 power supply is 24V 350 watts only. Connected a 24 volt 600 watt PSU, then the printing was ok with all the fans running. I think the larger nozzle size will also require more current with increased flow rate.
That works absolutely beautifully !!!!! I was a little skeptical about this but I tried it anyways since the capacitors were so cheap. I am amazed at the difference !! I haven't seen it fluctuate either way more than half a degree !! I have a MKS Robin Nano on a Sapphire Pro that has the same problem but worse, and I am going to try this on that printer too. Thank you so much !!
dude, your a genius!! too bad you werent around doing this when i was in school. i wouldve took an entirely different path in life knowing that it was this easy understanding most electronic basics.
Hi , i am using the community firmware on my CR6-SE . When i send M500 , i get a responce = " Saving DWIN LCD setting from EEPROM " Now if i recall right the DWIN LCD has to do with my LCD screen firmware. Do you think this is an issue ? Should i still use M301 technique ? Thanks !
Just a note on capacitors. There are some experts that have noted that running a capacitor dramatically below its rated voltage can shorten its life also. I am not sure how much credence I put in that, but I would get something close to the correct voltage. I do find that the PID tuning on my Ender 5 can vary quite dramatically every time it is run. It seems to work okay, as in being stable, but there is more than 10% variance in the three values each time it is run.
I can't believe I neglected to do this for over 2 years owning my ender3 because I didn't bother to fully understand what this meant. it took minutes and fixed my temperature issue right away.
Hi everyone. I need some help. I upgraded to a silent board and upgraded my printer to the extender. Turning it on was fine. There was an issue when I heated the hotend. The heat kept going up past the specified temperature. My hotend started smoking. What do you think the issue is? And the fan stopped working too.
A high temperature thermal interface material does wonders for your nozzle. I use Deep Cool Z5 as it has the highest temps without breaking down I could find - 300C
I am having this problem. At <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="360">6:00</a> in the video you show how the printer stays on for a few seconds after adding the capacitor. Is that to say that, if my printer already does this, adding the capacitor is pointless? I recently replace my motherboard, but I did so with the same exact motherboard from the same exact manufacturer.
Is there a way to include the M304 g-code command in Simplify3D output before the extruder is commanded to heat up? The "Startup Script" takes place after the extruder is commanded to heat up which is too late. My printer EPROM must be disabled as the M500 command does not save the new M304 PID values. My only other solution is to re-flash the Marlin firmwear which I really don't want to do. Great content by the way, keep up the good work!
I have a fun one. I’m building a diy IDEX printer and hotend 1holds temperature like a champ but the 2nd one oscillates wildly. I’ve swapped both boards, wires, thermistors, heaters, and tried switching between hotends. Nothing has worked so far. I’ll get some capacitors and try that
I am running into these temperature fluctuations on my SKR mini e3 v3. So I heated up the hotend and let it sit and it stayed relatively constant. Then I started heating the heat bed and everything changed. The hotend started fluctuating right away. I tried the capacitor fix, but put on the 3.3v because the SKR min has 3.3v for the thermistors. Was that the right move? One thing that has helped is a ferrite clamp on choke around the heatbed wires. But still no joy. This has only happened to me since my conversion for the Ender SW. Any thoughts on this issue?
My Tevo Tornado had wide temperature swings when I was running high temp plastics at around 240 to 250 C. I did the automatic PID tuning and it was worse than the defaults. I just put this cap in and at 240C I'm getting a max swing of +/- one degree C. This should have been supplied by the manufacturer but it's not, I highly recommend that everyone with a Tornado take the time to add the capacitor...
Can you please do a video on enabling PIDTEMBED or point to a resource on how to do it. Literally, everyone seems to just gloss over it including the calibration guide on the website and pretend its not something you have to do to tune the bed.
i have the MKS SGen L and have done a pid on both bed and hot end and am still getting eratic heater behavioure from both the bed and the hotend, what do you suggest
Hello, I realize this is an older post but I just found it & tried adding the capistor to my ender3v2 with 4.2.2 motherboard to try to stabilize my hotend temp, unfortunately now none of my fans work, not by themselves or when u use the control pad to turn them on, I was wunder'n if u might have any ideas on how to fix my printer or if my motherboard is blown & I'm screwed..??
I know this is a old vid but I've been having issues with my custom printer the hotend keeps saying temp malfunction. Do I need to plug in octoprint to watch the hot end so I get a better idea?
I have changed both heating element on the extruder and the thermal sensor. When I turn the printer on and turn the temperature up to 210. The temperature does nothing and then I get the error saying E1 thermal runaway printer halted please rest. Should I do a PID to fix’s this issue or could be the main board that has went bad? Any help would be appreciated.
<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="432">7:12</a> I never knew you identify the negative from the stripe. I love learning random useful things like this! Thanks.
thank you michael, your suggestion worked... for those who migrated to makerbase e3d board, here's what I went through: M303 C8 S200 M500 -> This says "Settings Stored" but it doesn't. Apparently stock firmware doesn't enable EEPROM. So I went to PrusaSlicer settings -> Custom G-Code -> Start G-Code and added, as Michael said, M301 P I D Good luck and hope this works for you too
when I slice my print in Cura and save it to a micro sd card and then try to print from the sd card, when the print initializes, it provides erroneous nozzle and bed temps. any idea what causes this ?
I had been putting off dealing with the problem for a while now, But while researching this issue I think I found my problem. When operating my power supply voltage drops to 23.5, heating at 9.5A bed and nozzle. With no load, the voltage was at at perfect 24.0. So I turned the adjustment screw up to 24.5, now it stays right at 24v under load. The reason I looked further into the supply was the number of capacitors on my board (geeetech a10, ender 3 clone), I didn't think that adding another capacitor would solve my problem. I may need to upgrade my power supply. This would explain the sporadic highs and lows that I saw on your graph and my own. When the bed heater is on, the voltage drops, the temperature reading is off, then it over compensates. In my case giving me a max temp or min temp error. This might also happen when someone powers their Pi from the printer power supply.
Hi Michal, I ordered some capacitors since I was struggling with my MKS GEN-L. In the meantime, I swapped the board for an SKR V1.3. since I have them laying around, I would install them if there is no harm. Can I plug it into the endstop socket too? I do not see spare pins for this board thank you
I would say no, because the endstop is a sensor feeding into the board's CPU, it's not directly connected to the 5v supply rail which is where the cap needs to attach.
I'm a bit late to this party but I just got a 3d printer and it prints but it needs some fine tuning. I followed the video and put in M303 C5 S200 U1 in pronterface. It ramped up the temperature and then I got a message "PID Autotune Failed! Temperature too high." Any suggestions?
Can you do a video on how to do a PID on a MKS Gen-L that has 1 heatbed and 2 hotend, as the hot end PID works, but the Marlin will not reconize the BED with either E-1 or E1. any Ideas? thanks Look your video's. thanks
Hi all, looking for help on what capacitor I need to use since I'm a electronics noob. I'm running a MKS gen 1.4 board. I've PID tuned and even created an enclosure but temp is still unstable. Any help is appreciated. thank you!!!
I was having this problem all the time, so I did the capacitor trick and it fixed while sitting still, but when I run a print it still has this issue. Any thoughts on why it doesn't always work?
Hey Michael, great video as always. Im looking for crimping pliers for dupont conectors , where did you get yours ? Are they ok for occasional crimping? They look like ones on Ebay but I have seen many mixed reviews. Just want to hear your opinion.
Im having this problem with bigtreetech 2 in 1 hotend as the heater is quite far from the tube type thermistor so temp creep across the metal takes some time to respond tried the autotune but not sure how to account for such a distance thanks for all your cool videos
Just purchased an E3 and I am trying to work through your Calibration course but found I can't seem to get past the PID Tuning step as I do not have a Raspberry Pi, and Pronterface doesn't work on Mac. Any thoughts? I appreciate the help!
I hope that you have a third option. I have replaced my complete hotend and am now using a cartridge thermistor. Heater cartridge power drawing from a MOSFET. Same control board. Set at 220 degrees, temperature cycles between 216.8 and 223.4 after PID Autotune. Have set the TEMP_BED_HYSTERESIS to 4 so that I can print. Temperatures above 224 give a wider temperature spread. Would be grateful for any suggestions how to fix this.
I purchased a new 4.2.7 "silent stepper" board and the sawtooth temperature fluctuations are ~10 ° C between +&-. I can't rely on the printer because it got noticeably worse after printing a custom blower addition for the hotend fan. I'll be trying the first option, and hoping I won't need the second, but am very happy to see that it's available in case the M303 coding doesn't fix the problem. Thank you for making this video. How did you figure this out?
mine is doing temp cut offs... i press prepare pla and at top it says 185 degrees and once the nozzle hits 185 the top number goes to zero and temp shuts down... what is this???...its a problem on my cr10 clone ...thanks
Thank you for your work. I have recently upgraded my D-Bot CoreXY design to include a new hot end and heated bed. The PID autotune of the hot end went very "smoothly". the heated bed tuning however seemed to produce largely varying results when repeated. My bed is made up of a Keenovo 110V 600W Silicon flexible heater with its supplied thermistor and a 1/4" thick MIC6 aluminum tooling plate bed. Therefore it has significant heating capacity and much more thermal mass than the PCB bed it replaced. Question I have for you or your readers in the know is how many iterations of the PID autotune procedure are recommended? I'm running a 10 cycle autotune, then updating the K values and running it again, and again... What is considered good enough?
I recently installed a canister style thermistor to replace the original small glass type on my Geeetech A20m, after the hotend heats up to the set temperature the printer won’t start to print, any suggestions on how to fix this issue ?
Hey Michael, I was wondering if you give some tips on where to start learning about what each component on a circuit board (Like the mks gen L or.skr 1.3) does. I've been meaning to learn how to make a circuit board.
Hi Michael, thank you for this video. I have exactly the problem that Autotune not worked on my skr v1.3. Where would you add the capacitor on this board? Would Z-Max wich has +5V and GND next to each other be ok? Greetings from Munich Germany
Great video! I attempted the pid autotune but I get a over temp failure error. still waiting on the capacitor. Any Ideas? What should the Ohm value of the heater Be?
Unfortunately I can't get it to run for the bed. m303 c5 e-1 s60 u1 gives a bad extruder error. I sure can't find a way around it. My bed graft looks like the one in the video since I installed the SKR mini and i have been getting some edge lifting after the install. Never had the issue with the stock board. Ender 3 Pro.
You can go as low as 100uF but over 1000uF does not give much improvement. obviously, make sure the voltage rating is significantly over 5v so I would advise using a 16v or greater. Tantalum can be used with the same value guides. I also added a 0.1uF and a few others to cover all the noise in my shop, you can find the little PCB files for Eagle Cad here github.com/foxabilo/MKS-GEN-L-V1.0-TEMP-FILTER/tree/master/EAGLE/projects/MKS%20GEN%20L%20V1.0%205V%20Smoother
foxabilo I am running a 5 V fan from that corner block, and used a 2200 uF capacitor with a DuPont connector as illustrated here (although I had pre-made connectors that required soldering). Ideally, you would use several capacitors of different values to smooth out the 5 V rail as much as possible. My rail is still not fantastic (checked with a ‘scope), but it works well enough right now. I haven’t got around to PID tuning yet, which frankly is pretty slack. My print quality is pretty good anyway, but it is always going to be worth tuning the heating systems properly.
@@boggisthecat Yup, I added a replacement connector block to the PCB in the link for anyone who is already using that connector for fans etc, and the extra caps do really clean the line up, in a perfect world it would have an inductor to form a proper low pass filter, but then again you could just use replace the buck converters inductor and fix the problem at the root :)
As you go higher with voltage rating and capacity, the ESR will increase. So you should find the sweet spot in capacity and use as low rated voltage one as possible.
@@gerleimarci Indeed, I just would not want to be using 6.3v rated caps on a 5v system as that's too close to max for me, this is a situation where the classic transistor capacitive multipler would work well to remove the large ripple with small caps.
Does your video mean the new ender 3 boards DO NOT need or cannot be fixed with the capacitor. Since it seems it was already added? And how do you send the pid auto tune without octopirint ?
I cannot get my nozzle temperature under control. I have an E3d V6 (genuine), and I recently replaced my ramps 1.4 with an SKR 1.4 Turbo. Ever since I cannot get consistent temperatures from my nozzle. I installed a 1000uf cap on my Z plus end stop plug - I checked with a meter to make sure I was on the +5v and 0v pins. I have done dozens of PID autotunes, trying different temperatures and cycles (I even did a 20 cycle autotune), but my temperatures still fluctuate about +-4˚ even while sitting in the air (not printing). I have replaced my thermistor and heater cartridge as well, just in case. I also changed my pin assignments, to utilize the E1 mosfet on the board, since I only have one extruder, just incase the E0 mosfet was bad. Is there something wrong with my board? Is there a way to change the PID autotune parameters? Different algorithm?
I'm already a compulsive manual levelor. Now I'm going to be all up in my hot ends business every time i drastically switch print temps. Or maybe just save some copy paste settings and insert them in the gcode on my high temp files.
