i suggest using the stainless steel tapcons, the blue ones always end up rusting after a while even with that coating on them. makes it easier for the next guy if he need to take out the flange. i also had a question, in a perfect world, would you always have the flange above the finished floor (like in this video) or flush with the finished floor (and why)?
In the second install, it seemed like the flange socked down to the floor quite a bit when you put the tapcons in. Is it ok for the plastic flange to be bent down like that after the glue was dried? Not criticizing just had a problem once before when screwing a plastic flange down to a plywood floor (where the bottom of the flange was flush to the wood) and it cracked. Didn't seem like it got over-tightened but there was a crack. Thx
I was thinking that the whole way through. There's nothing to hold those bolts down with the side notches unless I am missing something but that's what the slots are for.
CB1 you taught me another trick brother. I have installed thousands of tapcons and I never thought to use duster to blow out the holes. Nice!! Thank you my friend.
Clear basicd and to the point thanks man. I do this in a lot of rentals and i couldn't remember if i could set it above the concrete or if i had to grind it out.
I honestly do not trust setting a flange that high. It requires you to really crank down on toilet bolts and can be wobbly. I never like the flange coming up past floor more than an 1/8” or a little more but thats me. Others do different things
chuck, instead of using an inside fit 3" i want to use the outside slip on 4x3. My problem is i only have 1.5" depth from the concrete to butt up against the 90 in the rough in under the floor. can i trim the bottom of my flange to make it work with that height?
So is it preferable to set the flange after tile is laid? Doing a reno job on concrete slab and have to redo the drain anyway so just wanted to see what you thought about order of operations given the choice. Thanks Chuck!
We always set our flange even with floor. I’ve been a contractor for over 20 years and It definitely could be done either way but our reasoning for installing flush with the floor is because when it’s time to change out the tile it’s so much easier to just rip out the tile without having to worry about tile under the flange but in his case it’s a floating floor. I think the toilet sits better also but just my personal opinion.
I've always set the flange during the rough. Cut four pieces of 1/2" copper half an inch to act as a spacer underneath the flange to make it flush with the finished floor and then the floor, whether it be tile or anything else, gets put down around the flange. This way, if you ever have to rip up the floor, you don't need to rip out the flange too which can be a massive headache especially on a slab.
lol, it's kind of in style to use large format baseboard now, without quarter round at all. say 3 to 5" tall plain boards. I still like profiled baseboard and quarter round both...
I do a lot of old rent house's toilet replacements. Everyone is going to the glued vinyl planking and floors are never ever level. Wood shims work better for me than the plastic ones. What do you use?
I have a flange the floor is finished concrete n the flange us lije quarter inch off floor n u can't set a toilet flat now I think it should be cut off n put a new flange n put it flat to the floor now my gf cousin says it looks normal n I said but u can't set a toilet flat n u gotta use 2 wax rings n so I just dnt understand how he says that it looks good to him but still can't set a toilet flat am I wrong ?
That is the biggest problem in new construction floors are not level putting in tubs in during rough in is a pain the builders always make it our problem it never falls back on the framers or the concrete and it always shows up in the final product when the floors are not level for the toilets
I know this is just about setting the flange but people should be reminded to clean all the dust off the bottom of the toilet before installing the wax ring (they often come dusty from the factory) or it may not adhere 100% and you'll be called back for a slow leak and have to reinstall.
Came here to see a toilet flange installed on a concrete floor. I see you've got some kind flooring you are installing on. Im installing a toilet one a concrete slab in my garage - no flooring just a painted slab. Talked to a plumber and he said i need to chisel around the waste pipe so the flange would not set up off of the floor.
looks like they just slammed laminate planks over-top the existing mess... I hear birdies going (cheap cheap cheap cheap) trace outer flange diameter on flooring centered with pipe, cut it out with the oscillating tool so the flange sets down into the flooring. make a shim out of pvc or other waterproof material so it's level with flooring and can be bolted down tight to the concrete. That may be a good candidate to try out some flexible/re-usable flange gaskets... never used one to this day, but who knows :) I've framed floor joists and bowed plywood, cement board and others to make up 1.5" height in 6' span out of level bathrooms, so the whole toilet area is flush and level on any type of finish flooring... yeah, as "custom" as you can get, it took 5x the time and labor..... The end result was tile flush with the existing finished wood flooring (late 1930's home) and toilet level and flush to floor :) not many folks wants to pay for that caliber of work and time it takes, nor does anyone want to do such drawn out labor.
you have the quality of work that I grew up seeing from my grandpa / his sons..they built homes for people/themselves that are still in good shape today w/ no leaks ..& mostly used hand tools to do it..I use modern tools but I take my time & do it right like the Old days
CB-1 that baseboard look like it was hung a little too high there I don't think quarter round would have closed that Gap up. Who's the contractor on that job lol. Peace brother
what?? , no million dollar contractor with the 24" pipe wrench helping you out on this one?.Nice work Cb, love those tapcons screws. i got that milwaukee cut off tool, works like a charm
They are still seems like there is a little gap. What I would do is use “kwik seal” kitchen and bath adhesive caulk and put a small bead around the base and wet your finger and run it over the caulk to give it a nice smooth Suffice. You should use it anyway when you’re using a PVC or ABS flange because it secures the toilet firmly to the floor
So many mistakes. No primer, 90 degree set wrong. Wrong screws. Air blast instead of vacc. And screws not flush with flange face. Not plugging hole and almost dropped a screw in it. But if it holds dook .. who's complaining? Lol
One of my biggest pet peeve's is a lazy floor guy/tile guy/or general contractor, who won't level a floor before we set fixtures. Plumber's are NOT Magicians...we can't waive our magic wand and fix your f*ck up cause you were so damn lazy. There are floor leveling products on the market...use it!! With that said....that floor didn't look too bad....Rant over.
I'm yelling NOOOOOO @ 3:27 bad camera angle or drilling at an angle towards the pipe.... I always drill slightly angled outwards from center of flange, less chance of hitting the pipe and better chance of solid bite in the concrete or whatever half rotted floor is underneath.. been there done that, sometimes 4" screws in at 30+ degree angle to grab un-rotted wood and hold it down (no access underneath) if it's open then add bracing ;)
lastly, that flange design is an 100% guaranteed leak........... perhaps an oversize wax ring would smash down into the sharp step and guide thy poo water, once again I see "collegiate sheeple engineer design failure", that flange has total lack of hands on in-field analysis, skill and knowledge....... we so need to make anyone and everyone that engineers products spend a minimum of 5 years in the fields of labor doing repair work ;)
