Tying the Buffalo Hitch 

My pleasure. Just sharing what I do.

I introduced the Buffalo for use with the JRB Cinch. I started out with a Bull Hitch but it's not as stable. A bull hitch would sometimes work itself loose and pop off the ring when it was being jostled around in transport, especially with stiffer ropes. That has never happened with the Buffalo. I don't have a break test rig, but the consensus opinion is that the Buffalo could only be stronger.

Good day to you Lee. The loop knots you cited are also favorites of mine for the right application. The Buffalo hitch is different because it is cinching and we would use it where we would use a Scaffold knot. If you tie a Scaffold knot on a ring, it can become impossible to remove, even from the repeated weight of our body. Buffalo can be removed from a ring. But the Buffalo can be removed. Also, the Buffalo is EEL (Either End Loadable) and TIB (tied in the bight) where Scaffold cannot. I devised it for the JRB Cinch. This is a foolproof way to create a connection to a tree that can be easily moved but it stays in place when we want it to. Video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qYcTkUv4E0k.html

It's possible but I have never done it. There are better hitches for that. Tie a Maverick Hitch or a JRB Hitch and execute a soft lock on the end.

Same difficulty: I was sold on the utility of this knot, big thanks to the author and for his other truly excellent content. I struggled to tie this onto a ring but slow-mo 0.5 x eventually ally got me there, with only a few expletives. Most of my knot/hitch learning headaches start when instructed to ‘make a loop’ and then being unable to see the precise orientation. This series of videos is exceptionally useful and insightful, and the instructions are super-clear on recognizing the correct buffalo hitch shape…and on its pros and cons. (Far too many knot/hitch videos out there just say do this and neglect to show the correct version from all angles, or to discuss pros, cons and risks. The explanations for all methods here provide just enough clues but never too many to make it easy, and most require slow-motion replays. E.g. the listener often has to work out what flipping through 360 degrees means, since (as with loops) there are many possible ways to rotate things…

yes - ring pass through and ( SETTING the ROPE) is the key

@Mr71paul71 The Scaffold knot is basically impossible to remove after loading when tied on a ring. The Buffalo hitch is much easier to remove and comparably strong. The Buffalo can be loaded on either Strand and of course the scaffold cannot. We use the right hitch in the right situation. The JRB cinch is superior with a Buffalo as compared to a Scaffold and all of that was extensively tested. If you would like the privilege to leave comments, use the appropriate tone. My reputation for a methodical approach for safety is clearly established.

What is your preferred hitch for tying a rope to a ring for a life safety application? Something easily tied, cinching and stable once on the ring, and easily removed after its been loaded?

@@jrbtc on a ring an anchor hitch with either a stopper knot or an added half hitch, on a caribener a buntline it slides off the binder and pulls apart, never had any problem with either of those traditional tie offs, just seems to me everyone has become overtly paranoid about "knot failure" trying to reinvent the wheel as they say, I said it was overkill because in reality it is because knots are only as reliable as the person trying them. if they cannot trust their tying they shouldn't be climbing.

@@ravenflight88 From your response, i am sure you know stuff and so I sincere appreciate your response and experience. Those are good choices. On a carabiner, I always went with a Poachers or Scaffold instead of Buntline but all of them can jam pretty hard. You might be using larger diameters but the most common rope for Saddle Hunter's these days is 8mm (and a Scaffold knot) and if ya use any of Scaffold, Poachers or Buntline and ya subject it to a few 500lb cycles, getting em twisted off is tough. In higher loads, I have had to cut the rope to get out a Scaffold. On a ring, my favorite was also an anchor. I used the variant where ya go around the ring twice then under those turns twice, with the end shooting out sideways after being squeezed between the turns and the ring. I am told that it's "intrinsically safe", meaning that no backup is required. Anyway, its also tough to get off after a good load. I am having really good luck with this though. I can set one, use it in climbing applications for a while, and pop it off whenever I need to. Someday, i will do a pull test of it and find out how strong it is. And i do expect it to jam over 1000lbs... but would be interested to see which is stronger.

@@jrbtc you're correct I use 11.5 mm rope or 1/2 inch to climb same stuff I use for tree work I'm used to it the weights no problem as I use a 75 foot hank for getting up the tree and as a tie in. put a alpine butterfly 15 ft from the end there's my lanyard 1 rope 2 hitch cords 4 biners and a roll n lock, think of it almost like a 2 in one 75 ft lanyard lol

@@ravenflight88 cool. Would love to meet ya and talk shop sometime brother. By the way, i have another cool use for the Buffalo Hitch. I used it this morning, by total coincidence. I was using my throwball and got it stuck as it went over a branch which had a split in it... so i grab my roll of paracord and find a rock about the size and shape of a paperback book. I pop the Buffalo on it and hit the crotch on my first throw, then climbed and recovered my ball. I used to use Scaffold and Bull... i like this better. Cheers.

Once the knot is formed, we just have to dress it. By wiggling and adjusting the 3 turns that go around the 2 strands, we isolate the one of three that doesn't go back up and out, and we position it so that it's the farthest away from the ring.

I had a little trouble with this at first as well. What I figured out is that if you are looking at the ring with the 3 strands horizontal. The two vertical strands going through the ring and coming out the back side. The left strand comes out the back and stays on top forming the top loop. The right strand comes out the back and forms the middle loop and the bottom strand as John said forms the cross on the back and does not exit the ring. I hope this helps.