I feel like the concrete commemorates a moment in time and you are reminded of the sensory experience when you look at the effects - water running down the wall, dark areas. It's like art!
As you said mate, after a certain point, it's all about accepting the nature of concrete and embracing the characteristics that the wall has produced because your walls have come out bang on. And yeah definitely agree with going back to the cone shaped caps for your z bar conduits. I find it generally will strip out nice and crisp. Nice work Ben!
Looks pretty dam good. If you use a Treme pipe to get the concrete down you won’t have the concrete splashing further up the wall. We just use a rectangular pvc down pipe with a round fitting on the top to put the pump hose in. The pump guys hate it but tough shit ! If we have room we lower the pump hose in down the unseen side of the wall.
that's a good idea with the pvc pipe. I'm disappointed that I forgot to mention this, I usually request that they bring smallest hose they have and lower all the way down. I completely forgot to request on this and so we made do by washing down during the pour.
This is a great video, concrete truely is an art. I often find form working is over looked as a lot of attention is made on the placing trades. Good stuff 👍
Excellent lecture about concrete.Thank you! It seems like a lot of feature walls for one house. Would like to see some of the finished product, after all the other construction trades are done, to see how everything turned out.
Youre a true professional. I made the mistake of pouring too fast (more tham 2 foot lifts, no inner ties) and some of the form work let go. Also the pressure caused my walls to be out of plumb. Were talking about over 400 feet of a property lined U-shaped planter. Couldnt vibe the 2nd top half of it because i knew the forms wouldve exploded so there are places that need patching. Felt sick to my stomach but it is what it is. Shouldve stuck to my original plans to pour first half of the wall first with the footing then the other half of the wall.
Sounds like you should have used ties! A quick concrete pressure calculation from google or chat gpt will tell you have much pressure to allow for. Then you just have to make your forms strong enough to hold that much weight. Never design around pouring slow. Build it to suit maximum concrete pressure as sometimes the concrete doesn’t go off or is a high slump or gets poured fast or plasticiser is added which all keep the concrete at maximum pressure. Build forms to suit that.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 reading your advice regarding designing with maximum concrete pressure vs pour speed is really helpful. I prioritized it backwards and it bit me. Pour was a 2.5 inch line pump so had to use plasticizer. Thanks again and hope to see more vids!
I like the look of the smaller caps on the bolt holes even as it chipped out a little bit of concrete it looks great. I guess it depends on the look your going for
Really good info bro. Placement is an art in and of itself, mostly see the little hoses used for walls mostly in NSW and coil ties used mostly for architectural jobs.
2in hose is the go. I forgot to request so when pump arrived he didn't have one so we made do with water hose on forms. I am finding it hard to see the advantages of coil ties? Do you know? I can't see them being any tighter, and being sacrificial they are an extra cost and I have heard they can fail...
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 yeah not sure about the coil ties. Maybe just because they are available here and so are used more often. The small hose is definitely the go and interesting the comment about the PVC pipe that could be good too. Another crazy one I have seen is every sheet having a rebate and rabbet joint at every corner and all flat sections have a tongue and groove joint for each sheet. Can't imagine how much more money that would cost the client.
tongue and groove is crazy. I could try festool domino's. stripping would be a nightmare after moisture expands the mortice! can buy 3.6m x 1.2m sheets now that's the best way, have less joins.
Thanks for the videos! Do you have any tips you can share about what sealant you apply afterwards for waterproofing (outdoor) and dust proofing (indoor) for the concrete surfaces?
I cant help you there Ken, I have next to no experience in this regard. but here we have a local company called parchem who specialise in these products. Try their website.
I buy products from that company. Could you share which waterproofing products you buy from them? Or do you usually not use waterproofing impregnators for your concrete surfaces?
I dont usually do the concrete, only the formwork so I like to leave this to the clients or designers. In my experiences this has been something that has always been decided well before any discussions have been made to get me involved in the project. I know that xypex is not used as often anymore in the conc as sealer performance seems to have improved over the years. The client on this project has a product he is using but I do not know the name. I will ask and let you know.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 Appreciate your help a lot! I'm currently experimenting with silane siloxane coatings but these change the look of the concrete from a light grey to a dark one which is far from ideal
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 I started watching your channel a few weeks ago iv learned a lot iv been doing form work for years and by the looks of things have been over engineering my forms to many nails when a few to hold ply in place is all you need .it's what I was tought didn't know any better 👍
Regarding the round holes there’s a basement specialist in the UK who uses cast in GRP rods where the rods are cut off and I’m guessing for exposed work can be drilled out before filling. Also could those raised vibrator burns be polished off?
Some of the fiberglass ties and similar products are more common in east of Australia but I just haven’t had any experience with them. The cone shape is however part of the “look” of off-form concrete so it’s important to have them really. The vibrator marks can be removed but far better to not have them in first place
those grey cones are really good for a nice finish around the bolt holes. I like to cut the sleeves a lil wider than the wall thickness (usually 5mm max). that way you can really squeeze down on the bolts, get the cones sealing nicely and sort of pretension the bolts at the right wall thickness so they don't open up. for your finish face walls it could also be a good idea to run a string line down the soldiers just to make sure nothing is overtightened. having said all that, you're a top carpenter mate and not many could get the results you do.👍
cheers mate, yep just did another job with the yellow cones and cranked them right up but same result. I will never use them again! I also make them 5mm larger, best way to go. As for the string I have been using a hilti line laser as I can check anywhere on the wall.. not just where the line is. It works great. We start some 6m high off form walls next week, im hoping to film as much as possible and get perfect bolt holes!
Not sure if have tried, or like using coil ties and the tie bolts for your walls they give a very crisp finish around the cone area. Like every has its pros and con
Foundation for the walls are always poured first. But the slab is different. It usually depends on how the water needs to be taken away from the building, ie if you put an external wall directly ontop of a slab then moisture will get into your house
The larger flaired cones are the one to use. I like how you said concrete is concrete, it is what it is. Those walls are fantastic, I would be proud to have cast them. Do you not pour your own walls ? I worked in Australia for a while and we did not pour our own either which was a bit strange for me.
You ever try using a self consolidating concrete. Real high flow no vibration required. It’s more expensive but saves on labour on pour day. Your form work has to to be 100% as failure with this stuff can be an absolute disaster.
Feel like this is already a premium finish. The more expensive concrete the better finish, not so much to do with your formwork or pour sir. (Maybe just the dried up splotches) I don't know if the concrete itself varies hugely around the world. But we never get that bony concrete effect in Finland, and rarely seal molds extra tight. Could be some additives they put to the concrete to resist frost I suppose. Anyway keep making these videos good sir, formworkers are rarely represented! Also just a random thought, why it seems like that in the US they hardly use any rebar on any residential projects? They just dig a trench and pour it down. Best Regards, -Finnish Formworker
Hey mate. I think the temperature has an impact. I can acheive much much better finish when cold. this was such a hot day that the black formwork could have been 60deg Celsius. To combat that you have to wet everything down and have more water in the conc, that is what causes the boneyness on the sheet joints. It is a science!
Ben, from your experience, why aren't more houses build from concrete? There are a few companies that manufacture pre-cast sections that are used in towers / mid-rise buildings, but why aren't actual houses built this way? Also as a carry on from that, if a house were to be built using concrete, would you say it would be better to build using pre-cast or in-situ?
insitu costs far far more than traditional and can go very very wrong. precast is expensive also and also requires a huge crane to install, not always possible. Concrete isn't good for insulation or moisture. and if you build double skin concrete walls for the insulation that's super expensive.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 We are working at including the foam with less cost. Your concrete appears to shrink less than most does here. Just saw a paper on cements and shrinkage - they can minimize cement shrinkage but it will reduce strength. I'll take that!
Personally I prefer the concrete to have some defects. That’s why I don’t like precast concrete, becomes too clinical. It’s a hand made product and every “defect” is part of the signature and uniqueness of that wall.
Yes that is correct. I always want perfect bolt holes though and a more even texture to the air bubbles. I really dont like the ones that always form at top 2ft of wall. But these walls will look great.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 Another reason you may be getting air bubbles against the boards at the top is possibly due to the hydrophobic nature of the board surface (and oil) which prevents the wet cement paste from coating the board properly. In this low pressure zone you might see an improvement by using a hydrophilic release agent like Nox-Crete RA10.
Thanks for the reply, I will buy some on Monday! please give me anymore advice you have on release agents. It is something I really want to use more but with a better understanding of why to use particular products.
The fix we have been using however is a light spray of water on the forms just before the conc hits and to use a smaller vibrator at top of walls. The cordless battery ones work great.
Felicidades, es un buen ejemplo. 327 sentadillas son unos HOTBABY.Uno muchas y un buen ejercicio. Se deja ver que hay muy buenos resultados 😍👍 Saludos desde la Cd.. de world 🌹😉💖 los mortalesf abian apreciado tan hermosa mujer.k
